CRV Dust Shield Replacement?

[supton]

Wondering if anyone here has tried, or has an idea on it. I did 30 seconds of looking and it doesn't seem common... but the threads indicated it was a "fun" job as the hub has to come off. Wondering if I want to pay to have this replaced, or just limp it along until something else rots off.

Edit: 2003 CRV, it's the RR brake dust shield (aka backing plate) that has given up.

 

[supton]

It was coming due for rotors

thankfully the other side is much better

It needs new pads anyhow, as it ate a pad in 17k (a new record for us!) (my fault, I was depressed last spring and did not do my annual brake lubing). I did a pad slap back a couple of years ago as it wasn't driven much, but the kids have been driving more lately, the rotors are far worse now than back then, but it also did a lot of sitting outside, not as much driving, for some stretches.

yeah, shot, nothing holding at the bottom lip, no wonder my son said it was making noise

Fixed!

I'm kidding...

Now do I tell the wife that brake parts are falling off the car, or do I keep that one on the down-low?

 

[LazyDog]

The rear brake dust shield very common item to rust. It is pita to replace if it AW, search some You Tube videos.

If you come up w/ an easy way please let us know.

 

[supton]

I don't know if I want to tackle it, rust and more rust, and I can't "afford" to have the downtime if I get in over my head and/or the job takes a week for me to do.

On my departed 2011 Camry the job was like a grand or more 2 years ago, as the rear hubs would get destroyed in the process. A1A Auto had a video on it and in it they were having a devil of a time--and the ones on my Camry looked about 10x worse. This Honda, no idea how bad it is, but surely not easy.

Forgot to do it on our Camry, but recently on my Corolla I hosed down the shields as best as I could with some RP342. Problem is, they seem to rust from the hub out, not from the outermost edge in. Really have to pull the rotors and then hose everything down, with some sort of protecting fluid.

 

[D60]

Why do you feel it's necessary?

They only catch rocks and make squealing noises when they do. If I'm that deep on any of my personal vehicles I don't reinstall.

 

[Nukeman7]

The process will be similar to the video below which shows the procedure for a FWD Accord. However, it will be a bit less complicated since you won't be dealing with ball joints and tie rods on the rear. Also, the rear AWD axles will have thinner spindles than the FWD CV axle.



You can cheat the process by splitting/cutting out a section of the backing plate/dust shield if you can live with something that is functional but not 100% correct.

 

[supton]

Why do you feel it's necessary?

They only catch rocks and make squealing noises when they do. If I'm that deep on any of my personal vehicles I don't reinstall.

Helps keep water off the rotors while driving. Wet rotors take several revolutions to wipe themselves off. On rear brakes, yes that seems less important. And I'm willing to gamble with my life a bit, but not so much the kids.

My old Jetta did suffer in wet conditions, where the brakes would get wet, and take a few yards to dry off. Don't remember what condition the dust shields were, but I'm sure they were shot at the end.

 

[supton]

The process will be similar to the video below which shows the procedure for a FWD Accord. However, it will be a bit less complicated since you won't be dealing with ball joints and tie rods on the rear. Also, the rear AWD axles will have thinner spindles than the FWD CV axle.



You can cheat the process by splitting/cutting out a section of the backing plate/dust shield if you can live with something that is functional but not 100% correct.

Not a bad idea. From what I saw, the parking brake was fine, that was all in place. Perhaps there is a way to cheat it in there, might be worth a shot!

 

[Nukeman7]

Not a bad idea. From what I saw, the parking brake was fine, that was all in place. Perhaps there is a way to cheat it in there, might be worth a shot!

The tough part might be removing the rusty screws that hold the backing plate onto the knuckle with the hub still in place. A lot of penetrating oil and a propane torch might be needed to get them out.

 

[supton]

The tough part might be removing the rusty screws that hold the backing plate onto the knuckle with the hub still in place. A lot of penetrating oil and a propane torch might be needed to get them out.

I don't recall seeing any back there, but I wasn't looking very hard either.

 

[Nukeman7]

I don't recall seeing any back there, but I wasn't looking very hard either.

I'm pretty sure they are on the front (outward facing) side of the backing plate as shown in the first video I posted. Look for them just behind the wheel hub flange and brake shoes.

 

[Trav]

These are much stronger where the parking brake mounts, as long as the brake functions you can forget it until you have a reason to be in there to do another repair.

 

[supton]

I'm pretty sure they are on the front (outward facing) side of the backing plate as shown in the first video I posted. Look for them just behind the wheel hub flange and brake shoes.

Ah, good point, I meant "back of car" but now that I think about it, I was literally doing all the work while looking at the back, I never really looked at the front of the hub area.

These are much stronger where the parking brake mounts, as long as the brake functions you can forget it until you have a reason to be in there to do another repair.

Yeah, I didn't see any reason to mess with the drum parts (its disc after all). I still think it needs rectifying but it's not anything "critical".