Paint is in Xcellent condition just looking for good UV protection from HOT triple digit heat beating down on the paint.What are you trying to achieve? All of this assumes the paint is clean and corrected before applying the wax. Claybar, Polish?
845 is great for long lasting and looks really good as well.
When I really get after my car, its Wash, touch-up scratches/chips. clay, rinse, Meguiars ultimate compound with a soft foam pad (harbor freight blue), alcohol wipe to remove the oils from MUC. Then Wax.
Shines like a diamond in a goats ...
Went with the 845 and put away the M26, Scott I have been using BeadMaker as a drying agent, works great for drying and leaves an awesome shine and protection.I agree with what most of the others said, Malo. Use the 845. It's quick and easy.
Also too, slap a coat on the horizontal surfaces after every wash. Takes just 5 minutes. Sometimes I don't even wait to let it fully haze over.
Scott
Thanks, Malo, I'll check it out. As an aside, our beloved black Honda Element has been relegated to outdoor parking. 4 cars and only 3 indoor spaces to park. I've found that nothing provides much protection, but I tried CarPro Reload on it recently. That stuff seems more durable than most. Not the killer gloss of 845 but it seems to offer really good protection from the heat and dust. FWIW.Went with the 845 and put away the M26, Scott I have been using BeadMaker as a drying agent, works great for drying and leaves an awesome shine and protection.
View attachment 65070
You're using the wrong product in that case. You should be using a synthetic paint sealant like Power Lock Plus (ideally a ceramic coating). All wax is highly susceptible to heat and while there may be something left over that you're seeing, odds are it's only a small portion of the wax or just the bead maker left after exposure to hot sun like that.Paint is in Xcellent condition just looking for good UV protection from HOT triple digit heat beating down on the paint.