Changing Spark Plugs and Lubrication

[willbur]

I fail to understand what the big deal is with using AZ on plugs. Just apply a little to the threads and tighten a certain amt of turn, as ksachen said. Get the best result- plugs torqued correctly and easy to remove. Geez

Regarding dry or lubed threads, I remember learning torque specs were specified assuming light oil on the threads. Permatex states on their web site (last time I checked) and on the AZ container to apply their AZ and torque to the normal value, no reduction. YMMV

 

[Snagglefoot]

I guess it boils down to this. You are applying left hand torque and the darn thing is not budging. You swear that the “ no lube “ guys are full of it. You put the quarter inch drive away and bring out the 3/8 inch ratchet You pucker up and give it the mighty tug. It cracks loose with a loud squeal. You’re hoping the threads are still there.

And yes, everything is just fine. If you put Iridium plugs back in, this will probably be the last set of plugs in the vehicle you’ll ever change.

 

[Astro14]

I guess it boils down to this. You are applying left hand torque and the darn thing is not budging. You swear that the “ no lube “ guys are full of it. You put the quarter inch drive away and bring out the 3/8 inch ratchet You pucker up and give it the mighty tug. It cracks loose with a loud squeal. You’re hoping the threads are still there.

And yes, everything is just fine. If you put Iridium plugs back in, this will probably be the last set of plugs in the vehicle you’ll ever change.

I’ve had the exact same experience - feels like way too much torque to break loose, and coming out, they we’re so stiff, I thought the threads were coming with them!

Because the last guy had globbed a bunch of Anti Seize all over the threads.

Too much is worse than none.

 

[KrisZ]

Too much is worse than none.

Which is most likely the main reason spark plug manufacturers do not recommend antiseize. They have no control over the application process and quantity used. Why bother with such headache and liability?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Again with the anti seize. Long reach Japanese plugs? NO! A light smear of silicone dielectric paste in the coil boot? Yes.
Hyper cleanliness is important with ignition as the spark will want to travel down the OUTSIDE of the insulator and ground to the plug nut. NO dirty fingers or dirty rubber inserts on the spark plug socket.

I though the BMW used Bosch Ir? I bought a set for my old Subaru as the subaru ruthenium are hyper expensive. Sold the car, never used them. They looked pretty- better than any Bosch product I've touched in the past 30 years,

 

[DGXR]

I always use anti-seize on spark plug threads but VERY sparingly -- a little goes a long way.
Yes silicone grease on the plug boot to keep it from bonding to the ceramic, again sparingly.

 

[hardcore302]

Hey what about the coil boot?

 

[Snagglefoot]

Ok folks. Here is a pic of Steve Dulcich from Road Kill putting anti-seize on a spark plug. Enough said.

 

[Egg_Head]

Been changing spark plugs for over forty years. First motorcycles, then on both cars and motorcycles. I have never lubricated anything relating to spark plugs up to now.

Will be changing my later model Beemer with new NGK plugs when the weather warms up, as now beyond the 60,000 miles suggested spark plug change, although the vehicle is running well....

You are changing spark plugs in you BMW motorcycle? Beemer = motorcycle & Bimmer = automobile

 

[Snagglefoot]

You are changing spark plugs in you BMW motorcycle? Beemer = motorcycle & Bimmer = automobile

There is this. Bummer.

 

[xspsi]

I'm curious if anyone has used, or uses, silicone thermal paste on spark plug threads. I read that Rotax engine owners use it not only for its anti-galling properties, but to help transfer heat away from the plug to prevent detonation. Their "book" calls for Wacker P12 paste (expensive), but MG Chemicals 860 is recommended as a good alternative. I'm assuming any good quality thermal paste would work.

"
The thermal paste does two things.

It is silicone based. It lubes the threads to help prevent galling and it transfers heat to help stave off things like detonation. Roughly 40F.

Anti seize which you shouldn't use on our engine plugs is just old school and it's main property is for galling protection and corrosion. Nothing else. I have some certifed guys at my airfiled that have switched from anti seize to our thermal paste. Sometimes you have to leave old school traditions behind and move forward into the 21st century."

plug paste...

ROTALK is a web based support system which provides a common access point for locating key Information - Education - Support for their Rotax Aircraft Engines such as the Rotax 912, Rotax 914, Rotax 912 iS, Rotax 915 iS, Rotax 503 and Rotax 582.

www.rotax-owner.com

 

[Paco Pena]

When plugs were changed once or twice a year I never used anti seize. Now with them lasting so much longer I always use a small amount on the threads. Some plugs will be changed at 100,000 miles. Makes sense to me.

Paco

 

[wlk]

I'm curious if anyone has used, or uses, silicone thermal paste on spark plug threads. I read that Rotax engine owners use it not only for its anti-galling properties, but to help transfer heat away from the plug to prevent detonation. Their "book" calls for Wacker P12 paste (expensive), but MG Chemicals 860 is recommended as a good alternative. I'm assuming any good quality thermal paste would work.

"
The thermal paste does two things.

It is silicone based. It lubes the threads to help prevent galling and it transfers heat to help stave off things like detonation. Roughly 40F.

Anti seize which you shouldn't use on our engine plugs is just old school and it's main property is for galling protection and corrosion. Nothing else. I have some certifed guys at my airfiled that have switched from anti seize to our thermal paste. Sometimes you have to leave old school traditions behind and move forward into the 21st century."

plug paste...

ROTALK is a web based support system which provides a common access point for locating key Information - Education - Support for their Rotax Aircraft Engines such as the Rotax 912, Rotax 914, Rotax 912 iS, Rotax 915 iS, Rotax 503 and Rotax 582.

www.rotax-owner.com

Sounds reasonable but never heard of it used in that application. Thanks

 

[Chris142]

My employer requires that I use copper anti seize on plugs. I use very little as I don't want it running down and shorting out a plug. You will also most likely need a 14 mm thin wall plug socket.

 

[paulo57509]

Years ago, I was browsing an Aircraft Spruce catalog, curious about Parker beading tools. I came across Champion 2612 spark plug anti-seize (graphite). I've been using it on plugs that go into aluminum heads ever since.

 

[priler]

Interesting.

I just use a tiny amount of fresh/new motor oil on the threads. Seems like i'm the only one here.

 

[twX]

I'm curious if anyone has used, or uses, silicone thermal paste on spark plug threads. I read that Rotax engine owners use it not only for its anti-galling properties, but to help transfer heat away from the plug to prevent detonation. Their "book" calls for Wacker P12 paste (expensive), but MG Chemicals 860 is recommended as a good alternative. I'm assuming any good quality thermal paste would work.

Any anti-seize will also increase heat conduction. Both thermal paste and anti-seize contain a lot of metal, and almost any type of goo will be more conductive than the air and combustion byproducts that would otherwise be filling in the gaps. If a plug runs too hot, there's usually the option of using a plug with a colder heat range, so I see no reason to experiment with thermal paste.

 

[twX]

Interesting.

I just use a tiny amount of fresh/new motor oil on the threads. Seems like i'm the only one here.

The problem with motor oil is that it lubricates so well that the torque requirement goes down a lot, to around 50% vs a dry thread. Anti-seize has a torque reduction factor of only 15% to 30%, which makes over-tightening less likely if tightening to the torque spec instead of by the number of turns.

The plug threads in the engine are often oily anyway, which I think it's often recommended to go by number of turns, since it's hard to know how well the threads are lubricated when you install them "dry".

 

[priler]

The problem with motor oil is that it lubricates so well that the torque requirement goes down a lot, to around 50% vs a dry thread. Anti-seize has a torque reduction factor of only 15% to 30%, which makes over-tightening less likely if tightening to the torque spec instead of by the number of turns.

The plug threads in the engine are often oily anyway, which I think it's often recommended to go by number of turns, since it's hard to know how well the threads are lubricated when you install them "dry".

Well, it's right in the manual, along with the torque specs so...

Never had a problem, really. You know what they say about cats.

I still won't be putting anti-seize on there.

 

[GMBoy]

Every BMW we service and 99% of the others makes = NO antisieze on plugs unless specified and in your case NONE is specified. Use Dielectric grease on the spark plug coil boots - a very small amount rubbed on the inside of the boot is all you need.