In a Toyota?
Change the water pump prophylactically?
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Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: Jonzobot
> Toyota's get crusty at the weephole and Toyota has said over and over again that it's normal.
Interesting. I'll look into that, thanks for the heads up.
Kingcake 1
Trav 0
Originally Posted By: Jonzobot
> Toyota's get crusty at the weephole and Toyota has said over and over again that it's normal.
Interesting. I'll look into that, thanks for the heads up.
Kingcake 1
Trav 0
Originally Posted By: Olas
Change it prophylactically? Is that an autocorrect for preventatively?
Probably 'proactively' for those Yanks.
I rarely tyre of homonyms, antonyms, synonyms or outright misteakes.
Change it prophylactically? Is that an autocorrect for preventatively?
Probably 'proactively' for those Yanks.
I rarely tyre of homonyms, antonyms, synonyms or outright misteakes.
You didn't read the first page of that TSB it doesn't include 1999 models.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Prophylaxis has several definitions, you middle school gigglers. OP used the term correctly.
I would crack the pressure cap when it's hot to see if it holds pressure. If it doesn't, I'd do the pump conveniently soon. You want pressure to keep micro-boiling from occurring in the water jackets.
Half of this website thinks you should run 20w-50 in everything with a spark plugs so I don't expect them to understand words with more than three syllables.
And the other half thinks 0W 20 is fine in construction equipment.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Prophylaxis has several definitions, you middle school gigglers. OP used the term correctly.
I would crack the pressure cap when it's hot to see if it holds pressure. If it doesn't, I'd do the pump conveniently soon. You want pressure to keep micro-boiling from occurring in the water jackets.
Half of this website thinks you should run 20w-50 in everything with a spark plugs so I don't expect them to understand words with more than three syllables.
And the other half thinks 0W 20 is fine in construction equipment.
Originally Posted By: Fsharp
I don't think it will fail catastrophically and strand you without warning. Don't change it until it starts to leak or make noise.
+1
I don't think it will fail catastrophically and strand you without warning. Don't change it until it starts to leak or make noise.
+1
Originally Posted By: Jonzobot
Hi all -
Toyota Tercel, 1999, 290,000 km. I was under the car doing rust-spraying and took a look at the underside of the water pump. I was surprised to see a fair amount of crust under the weep-hole.
...
Or is that normal after 290,000km and 18 years?
I think you got your moneys worth out of the OEM pump.
Usually change mine when I see leakage from the weep hole. Also check for excessive play whenever the serpentine belt is off. I only use OEM W.P. and have never changed at the recommended "when the T-belt is changed" interval.
I found that noise can be misleading... A family member once got billed for a new water pump, turns out the noise was from cavitation (air pocket in the coolant passage). Original Mazda pump still looked brand new inside.
Hi all -
Toyota Tercel, 1999, 290,000 km. I was under the car doing rust-spraying and took a look at the underside of the water pump. I was surprised to see a fair amount of crust under the weep-hole.
...
Or is that normal after 290,000km and 18 years?
I think you got your moneys worth out of the OEM pump.
Usually change mine when I see leakage from the weep hole. Also check for excessive play whenever the serpentine belt is off. I only use OEM W.P. and have never changed at the recommended "when the T-belt is changed" interval.
I found that noise can be misleading... A family member once got billed for a new water pump, turns out the noise was from cavitation (air pocket in the coolant passage). Original Mazda pump still looked brand new inside.
hEH HEH 528e enthusiasts would change WPs with every belt change because the German made pumps were shot lived regardless of the price. I went for the GMB, beause I could get them from a world pac franchise for 35$ Every time I replaced the pump at the 60k timing belt interval. Finally, I let it stay in for 120k. Still felt as good as the new one I put in. The only WP failures I've had were managed by carrying gallons of tap water .Running unpressurized is done to slow down the leak. When the Borman 6's water pump failed at 160 K, I commuted for a week leaking a 1/2 gallon each way. I ran pure water with no thermostat for 3 months with no ill effects. It is by no means optimal, but it is still adequate and in my case, had no ill effects.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Toyota's get crusty at the weephole and Toyota has said over and over again that it's normal.
If you do replace don't replace it with something of worse quality. Get an OE pump or Aisin.
Correct! Aisin says that some deposits are normal and to monitor coolant level for a while. If it remains the same, then all is OK. A major American manufacturer even issued a TSB saying the same. I wonder how many good pumps are replaced because of a little crust? Aisin is the best and cheap for that application.
Toyota's get crusty at the weephole and Toyota has said over and over again that it's normal.
If you do replace don't replace it with something of worse quality. Get an OE pump or Aisin.
Correct! Aisin says that some deposits are normal and to monitor coolant level for a while. If it remains the same, then all is OK. A major American manufacturer even issued a TSB saying the same. I wonder how many good pumps are replaced because of a little crust? Aisin is the best and cheap for that application.
Some deposits are normal at the weep hole but not a big load of crust, that indicates more coolant getting past the seal than it should regardless of the make and model. IMHO with almost 200K on it replacing it makes good sense.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Some deposits are normal at the weep hole but not a big load of crust, that indicates more coolant getting past the seal than it should regardless of the make and model. IMHO with almost 200K on it replacing it makes good sense.
I replaced the WP in the Matrix over a year ago because it had crust on the bottom weep hole. I noticed the crust and cleaned it off, then waited to see how long it would take to return. The crust came back fairly quickly, so I just replaced it.
OP, you could always clean it off and if it returns you know the seal is most likely wearing out. After a year, The new pump doesn't have any crust on it yet.
Some deposits are normal at the weep hole but not a big load of crust, that indicates more coolant getting past the seal than it should regardless of the make and model. IMHO with almost 200K on it replacing it makes good sense.
I replaced the WP in the Matrix over a year ago because it had crust on the bottom weep hole. I noticed the crust and cleaned it off, then waited to see how long it would take to return. The crust came back fairly quickly, so I just replaced it.
OP, you could always clean it off and if it returns you know the seal is most likely wearing out. After a year, The new pump doesn't have any crust on it yet.
How soon until your next timing belt change? I definitely wouldn't wait any longer than that or do it now and change your belt and maybe tensioners a little early. I think you're on borrowed time st this point. Not an emergency but soon.
Wow didn't mean to
with my post. I was laughing because the first time I read the thread title on my phone I saw prophylactic, as in condom, and the vision of a condom wrapped around the water pump.....
I know that prophylaxis is for disease prevention (and that's the way it looks up everywhere I've checked online) and that the term is often also used (or misused? hence the debate) for any course of preventive regimen. NOT commenting on OP's usage, just that I was laughing about how I read it at first.
Hope that clarification helps --
/hijack
edit: agree that with a Toyota pump you should be good, but I'd keep an eye on it for awhile since the '99 is not specifically included in the TSB.
I know that prophylaxis is for disease prevention (and that's the way it looks up everywhere I've checked online) and that the term is often also used (or misused? hence the debate) for any course of preventive regimen. NOT commenting on OP's usage, just that I was laughing about how I read it at first.
Hope that clarification helps --
/hijack
edit: agree that with a Toyota pump you should be good, but I'd keep an eye on it for awhile since the '99 is not specifically included in the TSB.
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Now with pictures: http://imgur.com/6XNMqsV
It's kind of awkward to get the camera in there, this is the best shot I could get yesterday.
It's kind of awkward to get the camera in there, this is the best shot I could get yesterday.
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Doesn't look great, but not an emergency either. Keep an eye on it and change it at next belt change or sooner if it gets worse.
The last time I replaced a water pump on an old Toyota was because the old pump bearing seized and took out the belt in the process.
I would definitely get a new water pump, either an OEM pump or one from an OE supplier.
I would definitely get a new water pump, either an OEM pump or one from an OE supplier.
replace it, and all the belts, etc, you want.
I have a 2008 Cadillac DTS, water pump failed last year, at about 60,000 miles. fluid all over garage.
having an item go 180,000 miles is more than you can expect!
way way cheaper than a new car payment each month!!
best,
bob
I have a 2008 Cadillac DTS, water pump failed last year, at about 60,000 miles. fluid all over garage.
having an item go 180,000 miles is more than you can expect!
way way cheaper than a new car payment each month!!
best,
bob
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