Castrol - 0W-30 (GC) - 8,500 mls - 07 Silverado

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Originally Posted By: hate2work

Wes, what kind of oil did you replace the GC with?


Same oil. It took 2-3 weeks for the UOA to come.
 
Originally Posted By: _Wes_
Originally Posted By: Troy_Built
Try a different oil, thats for sure. Whats in there now?


I put the same oil back in it, it's been a month since I changed it. Took like... 2-3 weeks to hear back from BlackStone.
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work

Wes, what kind of oil did you replace the GC with?


I put the same oil back in it. I was not expecting a bad report to be honest.

Side Note:

I've got 2k miles on the oil in it now, change it? or go to 5k miles or so...?
 
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I'm chiming in on the "no warm up is needed" theme. Was about 5 degrees this morning @ my house and my car got < 1 minute of idle time.


Same here.
thumbsup2.gif


I get off at 5am now so the car sits out in the open cold and I'm down the road in less than a minute. 2-3 minutes I have heat and turning 3,000 rpm on the freeway. (unless the stinking light is stuck like it was the last few mornings
mad.gif
)

Just drive easy till its warmed up.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: _Wes_
Originally Posted By: hate2work

Wes, what kind of oil did you replace the GC with?


I put the same oil back in it. I was not expecting a bad report to be honest.

Side Note:

I've got 2k miles on the oil in it now, change it? or go to 5k miles or so...?


As much as GC cost, 4-5k in my book. It's not a bad oil, but I never got into it.

Never bought a single quart.
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Bill
 
3k, then replace with Castrol GTX if you like castrol or Pennzoil Conventional or Valvoline conventional etc...for 3k to monitor wear.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah


As much as GC cost, 4-5k in my book. It's not a bad oil, but I never got into it.

Never bought a single quart.
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Bill

Yeah the oil change on this UOA cost me $42... This oil change was cheaper... I kept watching Pep Boys for deals, got 5 quarts of GC and a PureONE filter for $25... then bought the extra quart for $6-$7... Thanks to Jason Adcock for the info on Pep Boys offering deals...
 
Bill, Bill, Bill, I am not a koolaid drinker. A lot, maybe not all, but a lot of GM V-8 engines 5 liter and up have shown to have high copper levels from new to 70K on some occasions. You know they have.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Bill, Bill, Bill, I am not a koolaid drinker. A lot, maybe not all, but a lot of GM V-8 engines 5 liter and up have shown to have high copper levels from new to 70K on some occasions. You know they have.


And a lot have not. But the general mindset here is that GM motors put out a lot of numbers on used oil analysis and Fords do not.

I've seen high numbers on many brands of engines.
But never flat post "what to you expect from a brand xx motor" comment on someones UOA like some of our "members" who are brand y drinkers.

His UOA is not normal. It CAN be better. IMO a LOT better.

Even if he got a load of Georgia leaded fuel (his lead is NINE TIMES THE AVERAGE) the rest of the numbers should be lower.

Also lead in the fuel will not thicken the oil.

Just trying to help.

Bill
 
I agree with the consensus already reached. My only additional thought is that this is another example of GC thickening significantly in a NOT extremely long OCI. Oxidation control seems to not be as good as some other oils.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Bill, Bill, Bill, I am not a koolaid drinker. A lot, maybe not all, but a lot of GM V-8 engines 5 liter and up have shown to have high copper levels from new to 70K on some occasions. You know they have.


And a lot have not. But the general mindset here is that GM motors put out a lot of numbers on used oil analysis and Fords do not.

I've seen high numbers on many brands of engines.
But never flat post "what to you expect from a brand xx motor" comment on someones UOA like some of our "members" who are brand y drinkers.

His UOA is not normal. It CAN be better. IMO a LOT better.

Even if he got a load of Georgia leaded fuel (his lead is NINE TIMES THE AVERAGE) the rest of the numbers should be lower.

Also lead in the fuel will not thicken the oil.

Just trying to help.

Bill


I was only trying to help also Bill. I'm going to log-off now, take two aspirin and enjoy the race at Daytona. Suggest you do the same
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny

I was only trying to help also Bill. I'm going to log-off now, take two aspirin and enjoy the race at Daytona. Suggest you do the same


I never suggested that you are a koolaid drinker. It was more towards the members here who spew more than post.
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If you took my post was directed towards you, please accept my apology.

You are one of the treasures here!
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Bill

PS: NHRA drag racing, F1 and Indycar (what's left of it... I MISS CART) is the only thing that I'll watch for live racing.
 
What about the people who say wear metal levels in UOA testing are meaningless? Bill, your 4.8L could be wearing out faster then the 5.3L from this UOA!
 
Originally Posted By: finalyzd
Viscosity in 15w40 range?

This is why I don't like Blackstone. Unless they also test the viscosity at 40C or some lower temp (which they don't report), they have no way of knowing if it is 15w40, 10w-40, 0w-40, or even a straight 40.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
What about the people who say wear metal levels in UOA testing are meaningless? Bill, your 4.8L could be wearing out faster then the 5.3L from this UOA!


That may be correct Drew!
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I'll have to call up the guy who begged bought my truck from me and let him know not to drive more than 10 miles from home just to be safe!
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One of the dumbest things I've ever done was to sell that truck.
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Bill
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: finalyzd
Viscosity in 15w40 range?

This is why I don't like Blackstone. Unless they also test the viscosity at 40C or some lower temp (which they don't report), they have no way of knowing if it is 15w40, 10w-40, 0w-40, or even a straight 40.


+1
 
What kind of oil was used prior and any oil or fuel additive added prior to this oil sample. Usually when using conventional oil the first run with synthetic oil may not be an indication how well the oil will perform. Because your wear numbers are out of wack Blackstone wants a sample at 5000 miles to monitor if the same trend will occur again. Since the TBN is 3.2 still active. I would change the GC out and stop the idling and if you wish go with GC again BUT Blackstone is saying to monitor the oil at 5000 miles not saying 5000 OCI. In other words get a sample at 5000 miles don't drain the oil. The next UOA will give you an indication if GC is suitable for extended drain intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: _Wes_
Yeah the oil change on this UOA cost me $42... This oil change was cheaper... I kept watching Pep Boys for deals, got 5 quarts of GC and a PureONE filter for $25... then bought the extra quart for $6-$7... Thanks to Jason Adcock for the info on Pep Boys offering deals...


What you should have said is, "thanks to Jason Adcock for recommending an oil for me that didn't work out at all!!"
frown.gif


I don't know what's up with the lead. I figured that, with the good TBN, GC is about the best oil for your application, an engine asking for 5w30 and one that goes 7,500-10,000 miles on an OCI according to the OLM. What could cause the lead to be so high, and all other metals to be BELOW average (for the miles)? Could an anamolous particle streak or something be at play here? I'm really puzzled at how one wear metal (lead) can be so high, while the others look excellent.

I do agree that cold idling doesn't do anything helpful, and didn't know that you were letting it run for 5 minutes each morning.
wink.gif
 
Unless you do another UOA on a different oil, we won't really know whether what we're seeing here is the oil's fault or not. I suspect oil is not to blame here.
 
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
Originally Posted By: _Wes_
Yeah the oil change on this UOA cost me $42... This oil change was cheaper... I kept watching Pep Boys for deals, got 5 quarts of GC and a PureONE filter for $25... then bought the extra quart for $6-$7... Thanks to Jason Adcock for the info on Pep Boys offering deals...


What you should have said is, "thanks to Jason Adcock for recommending an oil for me that didn't work out at all!!"
frown.gif


I don't know what's up with the lead. I figured that, with the good TBN, GC is about the best oil for your application, an engine asking for 5w30 and one that goes 7,500-10,000 miles on an OCI according to the OLM. What could cause the lead to be so high, and all other metals to be BELOW average (for the miles)? Could an anamolous particle streak or something be at play here? I'm really puzzled at how one wear metal (lead) can be so high, while the others look excellent.

I do agree that cold idling doesn't do anything helpful, and didn't know that you were letting it run for 5 minutes each morning.
wink.gif



It does seem that if the oil was to blame there would be more numbers that were off.
 
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