Can you use a different battery?
- Thread starter BossMoss
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You can make anything fit if you try hard enough.
Yes, you can use different 12V group size batteries in a vehicle.
The exception to the rule is if you have a vehicle that REQUIRES AGM or other battery chemistry, but this is very rare and typically only seen in ultra-premium vehicles.
When replacing batteries in a vehicle, I always measure the area the battery can occupy and choose the largest size battery I can fit in the available space. If I have a couple different options, I choose the one with the highest RC rating.
The exception to the rule is if you have a vehicle that REQUIRES AGM or other battery chemistry, but this is very rare and typically only seen in ultra-premium vehicles.
When replacing batteries in a vehicle, I always measure the area the battery can occupy and choose the largest size battery I can fit in the available space. If I have a couple different options, I choose the one with the highest RC rating.
Originally Posted by 92saturnsl2
Yes, you can use different 12V group size batteries in a vehicle.
The exception to the rule is if you have a vehicle that REQUIRES AGM or other battery chemistry, but this is very rare and typically only seen in ultra-premium vehicles.
When replacing batteries in a vehicle, I always measure the area the battery can occupy and choose the largest size battery I can fit in the available space. If I have a couple different options, I choose the one with the highest RC rating.
You mean highest cold cranking amp rating?
Yes, you can use different 12V group size batteries in a vehicle.
The exception to the rule is if you have a vehicle that REQUIRES AGM or other battery chemistry, but this is very rare and typically only seen in ultra-premium vehicles.
When replacing batteries in a vehicle, I always measure the area the battery can occupy and choose the largest size battery I can fit in the available space. If I have a couple different options, I choose the one with the highest RC rating.
You mean highest cold cranking amp rating?
Originally Posted by PimTac
The obvious answer is why not just use a battery sized for the vehicle?
Look at Honda car batteries, enough said.
The obvious answer is why not just use a battery sized for the vehicle?
Look at Honda car batteries, enough said.
Originally Posted by 92saturnsl2
Yes, you can use different 12V group size batteries in a vehicle.
The exception to the rule is if you have a vehicle that REQUIRES AGM or other battery chemistry, but this is very rare and typically only seen in ultra-premium vehicles.
When replacing batteries in a vehicle, I always measure the area the battery can occupy and choose the largest size battery I can fit in the available space. If I have a couple different options, I choose the one with the highest RC rating.
Yes, always use the largest battery that fits the case.
Yes, you can use different 12V group size batteries in a vehicle.
The exception to the rule is if you have a vehicle that REQUIRES AGM or other battery chemistry, but this is very rare and typically only seen in ultra-premium vehicles.
When replacing batteries in a vehicle, I always measure the area the battery can occupy and choose the largest size battery I can fit in the available space. If I have a couple different options, I choose the one with the highest RC rating.
Yes, always use the largest battery that fits the case.
Originally Posted by BossMoss
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
You can make anything fit if you try hard enough.
What does this even mean
Some people have shoehorned batteries that barely fit. I've seen some of the comments in this forum claiming that a battery fit when a part was bent or trimmed. I suppose I might be able to fit a rather large battery in my wife's Civic (a Group 51 is spec'ed) if I cut off the sheet metal tray and welded a new tray lower than the factory tray. There's actually quite a bit of unused volume under that tray that could theoretically be used for a larger battery.
And some of the odder things that have been done include a large supplemental battery in the trunk wired in parallel with the main battery. I believe this is pretty popular with competition car audio enthusiasts.
But for the most part a 12V lead-acid battery (even one considerably larger than stock) should work as long as it can get in there and be connected. Charging systems generally aren't fussy about a battery with more capacity than stock.
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
You can make anything fit if you try hard enough.
What does this even mean
Some people have shoehorned batteries that barely fit. I've seen some of the comments in this forum claiming that a battery fit when a part was bent or trimmed. I suppose I might be able to fit a rather large battery in my wife's Civic (a Group 51 is spec'ed) if I cut off the sheet metal tray and welded a new tray lower than the factory tray. There's actually quite a bit of unused volume under that tray that could theoretically be used for a larger battery.
And some of the odder things that have been done include a large supplemental battery in the trunk wired in parallel with the main battery. I believe this is pretty popular with competition car audio enthusiasts.
But for the most part a 12V lead-acid battery (even one considerably larger than stock) should work as long as it can get in there and be connected. Charging systems generally aren't fussy about a battery with more capacity than stock.
Originally Posted by bbhero
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Yeah... I agree.
But a group 24f is technically a "better" battery... More reserve capacity like 115 minutes of EP gold level battery East Penn's second best battery vs 95 minutes EP Ultimate highest level battery. That extra capacity could come in hand at some point and time.
But a group 24f is technically a "better" battery... More reserve capacity like 115 minutes of EP gold level battery East Penn's second best battery vs 95 minutes EP Ultimate highest level battery. That extra capacity could come in hand at some point and time.
Originally Posted by BossMoss
You mean highest cold cranking amp rating?
I prefer RC (reserve capacity) rating; I have no need for additional peak current. If you have two identical batteries (same size, quality, weight) that only differ by CCA, the one with the lower CCA will likely outlast the other. To get a higher CCA in the same space, the lead would need to be thinner and/or more porous to create a greater surface area of lead exposed to electrolyte. Given that one of the primary failure modes of lead acid batteries is lead shedding, this is undesirable for longevity.
Too many variables to say with certainty that one is better than the other (it really depends on appication), but by no means is a lower CCA indicative of an inferior battery. I can always use more capacity (energy storage) so a higher RC trumps CCA for me.
You mean highest cold cranking amp rating?
I prefer RC (reserve capacity) rating; I have no need for additional peak current. If you have two identical batteries (same size, quality, weight) that only differ by CCA, the one with the lower CCA will likely outlast the other. To get a higher CCA in the same space, the lead would need to be thinner and/or more porous to create a greater surface area of lead exposed to electrolyte. Given that one of the primary failure modes of lead acid batteries is lead shedding, this is undesirable for longevity.
Too many variables to say with certainty that one is better than the other (it really depends on appication), but by no means is a lower CCA indicative of an inferior battery. I can always use more capacity (energy storage) so a higher RC trumps CCA for me.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by bbhero
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Depends on the purpose. I've heard of some going smaller to save on weight, since a smaller battery will still start a car. It gets kind of crazy what some will do to save weight, including removing sound insulation and even installing half-sized performance radiators.
Originally Posted by bbhero
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Depends on the purpose. I've heard of some going smaller to save on weight, since a smaller battery will still start a car. It gets kind of crazy what some will do to save weight, including removing sound insulation and even installing half-sized performance radiators.
Originally Posted by y_p_w
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by bbhero
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Depends on the purpose. I've heard of some going smaller to save on weight, since a smaller battery will still start a car. It gets kind of crazy what some will do to save weight, including removing sound insulation and even installing half-sized performance radiators.
This is what racers use.................... not seen but felt:
https://www.jegs.com/v/Braille-Battery/147
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by bbhero
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Depends on the purpose. I've heard of some going smaller to save on weight, since a smaller battery will still start a car. It gets kind of crazy what some will do to save weight, including removing sound insulation and even installing half-sized performance radiators.
This is what racers use.................... not seen but felt:
https://www.jegs.com/v/Braille-Battery/147
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Originally Posted by y_p_w
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by bbhero
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Depends on the purpose. I've heard of some going smaller to save on weight, since a smaller battery will still start a car. It gets kind of crazy what some will do to save weight, including removing sound insulation and even installing half-sized performance radiators.
Very very very true ^^^^^
I strongly believe that the group 35 was put in my car to save weight... Typically group 35 batteries weigh 33-37 pounds. Group 24f weighs 37-44 pounds.
My current East Penn group 24f Valuepower battery weighs 41 pounds. Vs the 550 CCA EP battery that weighs 33.5 pounds.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by bbhero
Yep... Like using a group 24f instead of a group 35...
With those two sizes as examples, a group 35 battery will always fit when a 24F is spec'd since it's smaller. My G35 specs a 24F but many "battery selector" tools tell me to use a 35. I can only presume they do this to reduce the number of different sizes they carry.
Depends on the purpose. I've heard of some going smaller to save on weight, since a smaller battery will still start a car. It gets kind of crazy what some will do to save weight, including removing sound insulation and even installing half-sized performance radiators.
Very very very true ^^^^^
I strongly believe that the group 35 was put in my car to save weight... Typically group 35 batteries weigh 33-37 pounds. Group 24f weighs 37-44 pounds.
My current East Penn group 24f Valuepower battery weighs 41 pounds. Vs the 550 CCA EP battery that weighs 33.5 pounds.
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Since the AGM manufacturers simply REFUSE to produce a 96R sized battery, despite it being used in MANY FoMoCo (and some FCA, I'm told??) products, I may have to go to an Odyssey PC1100, IF I do not want to wait for them to release the 96R (and to save a few pounds of weight while still retaining most of the Motorcraft BXT-96R's spec/capacities) they are promising by this June.
But we all know how that goes, probably means NEXT June, at best.
I know many on here tout flooded lead acid 'tech' as being superior to (or is it simply the abject frugality factor on here pushing that bias?
) AGMs, but I am tired of dealing with FLAs, and already have the Odyssey/Schumacher charger for their AGMs, left over from my last Odyssey/Diehard.
BTW; IF I did not mind spending exorbitant amounts of coin on the tech, I would say **** it all, and get a lithium type battery and charger, and save MUCH mass (like 3/4 or more of the factory FLA Motorcraft's ~34 lb.weight) while still having a FULL capacity (CCA, CA, RC, Ah, etc.) power source.
But we all know how that goes, probably means NEXT June, at best.
I know many on here tout flooded lead acid 'tech' as being superior to (or is it simply the abject frugality factor on here pushing that bias?
BTW; IF I did not mind spending exorbitant amounts of coin on the tech, I would say **** it all, and get a lithium type battery and charger, and save MUCH mass (like 3/4 or more of the factory FLA Motorcraft's ~34 lb.weight) while still having a FULL capacity (CCA, CA, RC, Ah, etc.) power source.
Originally Posted by dailydriver
Since the AGM manufacturers simply REFUSE to produce a 96R sized battery, despite it being used in MANY FoMoCo (and some FCA, I'm told??) products, I may have to go to an Odyssey PC1100, IF I do not want to wait for them to release the 96R (and to save a few pounds of weight while still retaining most of the Motorcraft BXT-96R's spec/capacities) they are promising by this June.
But we all know how that goes, probably means NEXT June, at best.
I know many on here tout flooded lead acid 'tech' as being superior to (or is it simply the abject frugality factor on here pushing that bias?
) AGMs, but I am tired of dealing with FLAs, and already have the Odyssey/Schumacher charger for their AGMs, left over from my last Odyssey/Diehard.
BTW; IF I did not mind spending exorbitant amounts of coin on the tech, I would say **** it all, and get a lithium type battery and charger, and save MUCH mass (like 3/4 or more of the factory FLA Motorcraft's ~34 lb.weight) while still having a FULL capacity (CCA, CA, RC, Ah, etc.) power source.
I would have liked an AGM 96R as well since that is what my '14 Mustang uses. When I needed a new battery last year I got a trusty Motorcraft Tested Tough Max.
Since the AGM manufacturers simply REFUSE to produce a 96R sized battery, despite it being used in MANY FoMoCo (and some FCA, I'm told??) products, I may have to go to an Odyssey PC1100, IF I do not want to wait for them to release the 96R (and to save a few pounds of weight while still retaining most of the Motorcraft BXT-96R's spec/capacities) they are promising by this June.
But we all know how that goes, probably means NEXT June, at best.
I know many on here tout flooded lead acid 'tech' as being superior to (or is it simply the abject frugality factor on here pushing that bias?
BTW; IF I did not mind spending exorbitant amounts of coin on the tech, I would say **** it all, and get a lithium type battery and charger, and save MUCH mass (like 3/4 or more of the factory FLA Motorcraft's ~34 lb.weight) while still having a FULL capacity (CCA, CA, RC, Ah, etc.) power source.
I would have liked an AGM 96R as well since that is what my '14 Mustang uses. When I needed a new battery last year I got a trusty Motorcraft Tested Tough Max.
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