I bent my knuckle/spindle assembly on my press trying to remove a ball joint. I was able to unbend the knuckle using the press. Just pressure and no heat. I was wondering if this is an acceptable repair or if this is a no no and the knuckle should be replaced? One pic is with it bent and the other is unbent.
Can you unbend a bent knuckle?
- Thread starter joegreen
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Just because it's visually unbent, doesn't mean it's straight. Put it back together and see how it drives. May need an alignment.
Sure you can, the question is can you get it to the correct position so that suspension geometry is where it should be?
This! Damaged suspension components may have more than superficial damage. There could be more damage than meets the eye.
Not really, no manufacturer would have a specification like that.
Also, this is a solid cast iron piece with a machined end for the bearing race, so it has to be high quality with very little porosity. It can be bent back.
If it was cast aluminum or just a cast iron piece with no precision machining, then the cast quality comes into question, like possible cracks.
This piece however, would be fine.
that"s a forged pice and can take bending to some extend. But you likely won't get it to the same shape it was before. Camber is likely off
What size press ? unless its more than a 20 ton, i'm surprised it bent that easily.
The problem is you don't have another same side unmolested knuckle to compare it to. I can think of some ways to compare it, but without new one side by side, who knows. Might be okay, or could be bent in more that one axis.
It all sounds like "hands on" technology with a lot of T & E. It's called 'smithing'.
Get to work. There are only 3 axes, after all.
Overwork the material....oh well, I wasn't the one who bent it.
Show car vs. in-service car.....
Get to work. There are only 3 axes, after all.
Overwork the material....oh well, I wasn't the one who bent it.
Show car vs. in-service car.....
Wow to do that was dangerous, it could have flipped right at you. And absolutely no reason to do that in the first place. DIY should be for ones that at least have a basic understanding of how to do the job they are attempting.
The bent part? It wouldn't be fun finding out if there was a stress crack induced by the bending while driving down the freeway at 70MPH.
If you don't care about yourself then think of others that could be injured.
With something like this that has been bent to yield, all you have to do is think about certain bolts that are not supposed to be reused because they are torque to yield. Quick definition of Yield is to give way to pressure.
The bent part? It wouldn't be fun finding out if there was a stress crack induced by the bending while driving down the freeway at 70MPH.
If you don't care about yourself then think of others that could be injured.
With something like this that has been bent to yield, all you have to do is think about certain bolts that are not supposed to be reused because they are torque to yield. Quick definition of Yield is to give way to pressure.
I bent the caliper mounting ears on a Subaru back into place after being stupid with my 50T press. Since the caliper floats it doesn't have to be perfect, esp on an old beater that only has a couple years of service left.
I wouldn't do this on something nicer or a "road tripper"
I wouldn't do this on something nicer or a "road tripper"
Also if you have a GOOD local 4x4/fab shop or machine shop you could pick their brain. D60 knuckles and such often get bent by hydro assist or huge rubber and sometimes it makes sense to anneal, straighten and heat treat.
That said, in your case this amount of work and expense is likely unjustified given that it's not rare like a '78/9 D60 kingpin knuckle
That said, in your case this amount of work and expense is likely unjustified given that it's not rare like a '78/9 D60 kingpin knuckle
Owen Lucas
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I believe LKQ can magnaflux their knuckles if you ask them, probably an upcharge.
Wow man, I can only imagine how it was positioned in the press....I bet it was under some extreme potential energy when flexed...scary.
I agree your camber will not be right, and who knows if the metal is fatigued. If it were to break, it won't be a fun experience at speed.
I would suggest to replace it.
What about the other side? Did you press the joint the same way?
FWIW, the OTC 7249 is my go to for those ball joints.
I agree your camber will not be right, and who knows if the metal is fatigued. If it were to break, it won't be a fun experience at speed.
I would suggest to replace it.
What about the other side? Did you press the joint the same way?
FWIW, the OTC 7249 is my go to for those ball joints.
No, and this part is widely available. One of the great things about the W123 is that there are still parts for it.
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When Ford used the "Twin I Beam" suspension on their trucks, I used to hear of alignments done by bending the I-Beam. 
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