Can you change oil filter without draining oil?

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Feb 10, 2015
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Potentially stupid question here: can you swap an oil filter without draining the oil from the pan?

I have a vertically mounted spin on filter on my 2007 Camry 2.4L. I am running HPL EC through it for 3000 miles and want to see what that filter caught from the HPL EC at the next change. However, before I swap the oil, I want to run a can of BG EPR through it. I figured I would sacrifice a PH3600 for the 20 minutes or so that the BG EPR is running through it both to see what it does on its own and to be safe from overloading the existing filter that might have caught junk from the HPL EC, then drain the oil and put on a fresh filter.

However, never having had a reason to do that before, I am unsure if an excessive amount of oil will drain from the filter housing if the oil isn't drained from the pan first? I would rather not have a big mess and the need to put fresh oil in it for 20 minutes running the BG EPR.
 
I am unsure if an excessive amount of oil will drain from the filter housing if the oil isn't drained from the pan first? I would rather not have a big mess and the need to put fresh oil in it for 20 minutes running the BG EPR.
You will also lose some oil that will drain out of the oil galleries above the filter if the filter is mounted on the bottom or side of the engine, but it won't be much. If you are just going to remove the filter, then put another filter on, and then add and run the BG EPR for 20 minutes at idle then you should be fine as long as the oil level is still near the add mark (+/-) after doing the filter swap and BG add. How much BG will be added ... it could pretty much offset most of what you'd lose by just swapping the oil filter.
 
Years back when I was working and putting alot of miles a year, I used to change just the filter. The oil I was using was rated for 10k changes, but the filters were only 5k rated. Luckily, there was little to no mess with doing my car. Just dropped it and drained it. And installed a prefilled new filter. Then go another 5 k and repeat. I never had any engine problems in 260k miles, when the trans went.,,
 
I had to take a friend's Corolla with the composite filter housing to a nearby shop because it was so stuck. So yes, I filled the crankcase and drove to the shop. Up on the lift and a long Snappy 1/2 flex head ratchet and off she came. I had semi-cracked it. I replaced it with the metal alloy version; snug just past bottom.

It seals on the o-ring people!
 
I swap out the filter after the first few hundred miles on any new car. You’ll have to top it off but it's not really any messier than a normal oil change.
 
No more of a mess than doing a normal filter change with an oil change on whatever vehicle.

I guess it could be the same if he lets it empty before he tries to screw on another filter.

In previous attempts to do this I always tried to get the other filter back on before the local area drained.
 
machinery lubrication notes the filter is prolly most important + on my rarely driven 2001 TT using redline lubes i change oil ONLY every other year, but do a new filter, only 1 thou summer smiles this year!!
 
Did it on my new Ram Cummins truck. Had been to the dealer having some recall work done and when I got home noticed oil on the frame and bottom of the oil pan. It only had 233 miles on it and I hadn’t requested an oil change but it appeared that’s what they did. The oil level was over full so I just changed the filter and it reduced the level to full.
 
That all depends on whether the oil filter is above the oil pan or not.
It is definitely above the pan. I was just unsure of how exactly the system flowed, so maybe there could be a significant amount of oil in line or something that would come gushing out.

Anyway, the consensus is that it should be fine, so worst case she will get some super cheap oil for 20 or 30 minutes if need be.
 
You'd be surprised how much little oil comes out when swapping out a filter, all you need is a drain pan ready below the filter and slowly unthread the filter out of the block until it starts dripping oil slowly until it stops then fully unthread and remove the filter. Just prefill the replacement filter with some new oil when installing then check the dripstick for needed make up oil.

I'd run the BG EPR for 30 minutes, 20 minutes at 1200 rpm and 10 minutes idle to get your moneys worth out of the flush.
 
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