Bottom line on 5W20

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Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: BuickGN

I have yet to see proof of this. Oil flows nearly instantly with whatever you use assuming it's right for the climate. The difference in time to pressure and flow of a 5w-20 and 5w30 would have to be measured in miliseconds. I couldn't see a difference in the oil pressure light or actual flow out of the valvetrain from a 10w30 to a 20-50.


Poiseuille’s Equation: The volume flow rate is inversely proportional to viscosity.

Isn't it a fact of physics that oil at a given viscosity flows more slowly at lower temps than it does at a higher one? There are likely a million ways to scientifically prove that your rockers got MORE of the 10W30 than they did of the 20W50. Maybe you are getting ENOUGH flow (as measured by your calibrated eyeballs) in the idle situation you describe but what about at 4000 rpm?

I just don't see the sense in running an oil thicker than is needed for a particular combination of circumstances (temp and operating condition). Beyond what you need is just a waste of energy. I don't think you, or anyone, can prove running a thicker oil than necessary results in any notable improvement in longevity or wear.

Wouldn't everyone agree that, in the end, it's more important to have the RIGHT viscosity. Arguing over thick or thin is only looking at part of the equation. What's "right" varies according to many conditions and can't necessarily be judged from only one perspective






My comment about oil getting to the valvetrain was about the time it takes for oil to get there, not how much flow there is. My eyeballs do a fine job, thanks for the smart [censored] comment.

The oil pump is a positive displacement pump. It should pump the same volume but at a higher pressure with a thicker oil assuming it's not in bypass.

Get off your high horse, you're basing everything in theory. I've run this engine family for the past 14 years, I know a couple things. My engine flat out won't live on a thin 10w30 period. I've proven it with multiple teadowns. The thin stuff won't keep parts separated. What's this new obsession with flow anyway? If the parts are kept separated and at a reasonable temp why do you need a higher flow? I don't need to defend myself to every know it all that comes around.

Back to the topic, how does the 5w-20 provide better startup protection if there is no difference in time to full pressure vs a 10w30 or 20w-50?
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Back to the topic, how does the 5w-20 provide better startup protection if there is no difference in time to full pressure vs a 10w30 or 20w-50?

Your experience might not be fully representative in this case.

Moreover, full pressure isn't necessarily the same thing as full flow to all the important areas in the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN


My comment about oil getting to the valvetrain was about the time it takes for oil to get there, not how much flow there is. My eyeballs do a fine job, thanks for the smart [censored] comment.

The oil pump is a positive displacement pump. It should pump the same volume but at a higher pressure with a thicker oil assuming it's not in bypass.

Get off your high horse, you're basing everything in theory. I've run this engine family for the past 14 years, I know a couple things. My engine flat out won't live on a thin 10w30 period. I've proven it with multiple teadowns. The thin stuff won't keep parts separated. What's this new obsession with flow anyway? If the parts are kept separated and at a reasonable temp why do you need a higher flow? I don't need to defend myself to every know it all that comes around.

Back to the topic, how does the 5w-20 provide better startup protection if there is no difference in time to full pressure vs a 10w30 or 20w-50?


Well, actually, it wasn't intended as a [censored] comment. Sorry you took it that way. Shields down, Scotty! I guess I need to use more smiley faces so I don't offend you (Now, THAT was an example of a [censored] remark, but here's a smiley face to defuse it!
cheers3.gif
)

Seriously, I figured you knew what "enough" oil looked like with the covers off your engine at idle, but that you couldn't see what was happening at 4000 rpm going down the road. Simple as that. Plus, I really wasn't referring just to your engine anyway. As you, I used my own experience on my own engine to make what I thought was a general point. I figured that what you did to. I wasn't challenging you knowledge on your engine. I'll concede to YOUR knowledge on YOUR engine. Beyond that, it's all theory from you too.

The original poster asked, "Will it or will it not hurt an engine spec'd for 5w20 to have 5w30 run in it? So many opinions in here just haven't seen a definitive answer."

not

"how does the 5w-20 provide better startup protection if there is no difference in time to full pressure vs a 10w30 or 20w-50?"

But to focus on your question, you may be correct, but your example/observation/anecdote doesn't necessarily prove it. Look, at this point, I don't know enough to have any money on any horse in this race (either high or low ones) but my "theory based thinking" leads me to think differently than you.

I had an experience opposite yours. More than 20 years ago, I moved from California to Vermont in a vehicle that had a crankcase full of 20W50 Castrol GTX. Winter came quickly after the move to bite this Sunshine State boy in the butt. The first really cold morning (below zero) I pretty much had instant oil pressure on startup but I got this strange squeaking from my engine. It went away in 10-15 seconds. The colder it was the worse the noise and the longer it took to go away. After a while I figured out (duh!!!) that the squeaking was my rocker arms (steel shaft, bronze bushings) and that it was squeaking because it had no oil. The thick oil was flowing like honey, putting the oil pump in full bypass, but giving me indicated oil pressure, while taking an eternity to reach the upper end. Sure, that could be anecdotal to just the Land Rover 2.25L four and likely doesn't apply to many other engines out there.
 
Of course I'm not saying to run a 20w-50 in the middle of a northern winter. I'm sure there would be consequences.

The only point I'm trying to make is in a temperature appropriate scenario, I doubt you would be able to measure the difference in time to pressure and full flow to every part of the engine between a 5w-20 and 30. Just having a bad day at work and trying to type in between people walking by makes me come across a little harsh so I apologize.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Back to the topic, how does the 5w-20 provide better startup protection if there is no difference in time to full pressure vs a 10w30 or 20w-50?

Your experience might not be fully representative in this case.

Moreover, full pressure isn't necessarily the same thing as full flow to all the important areas in the engine.


You're right. Full pressure isn't the same as full flow but the fact that I can see oil coming out of the rockers immediately means something. I'm sure a good ADBV plays a role in this.
 
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Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Of course I'm not saying to run a 20w-50 in the middle of a northern winter. I'm sure there would be consequences.

The only point I'm trying to make is in a temperature appropriate scenario, I doubt you would be able to measure the difference in time to pressure and full flow to every part of the engine between a 5w-20 and 30. Just having a bad day at work and trying to type in between people walking by makes me come across a little harsh so I apologize.



No problem. We've all worn that T-Shirt And as to the difference in full flow between a 5W20 and a 5W30 being negligible... agreed.
 
Originally Posted By: Badlees
Does 5w20 hold up in 100-120 highway temps in traffic?


Most likely, yes, especially in a low stress situation. Even a hot, 220 degree engine, loafing along or idling in traffic, doesn't have much of a load on it and the laod is what squeezes out the hydrodynamic layer. In all likelihood, if the manufacturer rates it for year-round service without any conditions, then that's even more confidence-inspiring. Your owners manual would list any qualifications.

I think we've more or less settled (until the next debate in which the newbies will totally ignore this discussion) that there's so little difference between "average" 5W30 and 5W20 oil as to almost make this a moot discussion. Not much gain or loss any way you look at it. We're just debating microbial difference in performance for the most part.
 
Originally Posted By: hal
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: mrvmax
I found some Quaker State synthetic 5w30 for half price at WM, I plan on doing my first oil change with it once i get close to 1500 miles. I bought a new 2008 Ford Ranger that calls for 5W20, but at half price I will use the 5W30 for the first oil change.


If I lived in Texas like you, I'd use 30 weight oil all year long.


+1

I would stick with 30, but my other two cars use 20 so it's easier to buy the same for all three.
 
Originally Posted By: mrvmax
Originally Posted By: hal
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: mrvmax
I found some Quaker State synthetic 5w30 for half price at WM, I plan on doing my first oil change with it once i get close to 1500 miles. I bought a new 2008 Ford Ranger that calls for 5W20, but at half price I will use the 5W30 for the first oil change.


If I lived in Texas like you, I'd use 30 weight oil all year long.


+1

I would stick with 30, but my other two cars use 20 so it's easier to buy the same for all three.


Well, you're making this too easy.... if you find it easier to buy one weight of oil, just buy the 30 weight oil and use it in all your rigs.

And if I towed a trailer in the Texas summertime, I'd use a good 40 weight.

Did you notice in a post above what weight Jim was running in the California summer? It was a 50 weight oil. Does it get as hot in Texas as it does in California?
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Here is an analogy that was given to me today. The difference between a 20 and a 30 grade oil isn't much but. Lets say a 20 grade oil has molecules that are baseball sized, a 30 grade is like a softball, and a 50 grade is like a basketball. Today's engines for the most part are designed to use 20 and 30 grade oils, using a 50 grade is like forcing a basketball into a hole a softball was designed to go into. The 50 grade oil would be constantly shearing to pass through openings that weren't designed for it to flow through.
 
[[/quote]Does it get as hot in Texas as it does in California?
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[/quote]

Man Texas summers are like an oven! Hot and humid. It hit the 108F mark here last summer.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Here is an analogy that was given to me today. The difference between a 20 and a 30 grade oil isn't much but. Lets say a 20 grade oil has molecules that are baseball sized, a 30 grade is like a softball, and a 50 grade is like a basketball. Today's engines for the most part are designed to use 20 and 30 grade oils, using a 50 grade is like forcing a basketball into a hole a softball was designed to go into. The 50 grade oil would be constantly shearing to pass through openings that weren't designed for it to flow through.


Except no clearance that I'm aware of is less than .001", which is much larger than a molecule of oil.

Engine clearances haven't chaged over the years.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
[
Does it get as hot in Texas as it does in California?
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[/quote]

Man Texas summers are like an oven! Hot and humid. It hit the 108F mark here last summer. [/quote]

Yeah, thanks. I was trying to make a point by using sarcasm. Hopefully it wasn't lost on everyone.
 
Then, to complicate obsessive viscosity discussions are manufacturer's that spec different oil weights for the same engine in other countries...
 
and the molecule topic brings up a question I have:

Does thicker (heavier weight) oil have larger molecules than thinner (light weight) oil?????????????

shouldn't the molcules get bigger has they get hotter?
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Here is an analogy that was given to me today. The difference between a 20 and a 30 grade oil isn't much but. Lets say a 20 grade oil has molecules that are baseball sized, a 30 grade is like a softball, and a 50 grade is like a basketball. Today's engines for the most part are designed to use 20 and 30 grade oils, using a 50 grade is like forcing a basketball into a hole a softball was designed to go into. The 50 grade oil would be constantly shearing to pass through openings that weren't designed for it to flow through.


Except no clearance that I'm aware of is less than .001", which is much larger than a molecule of oil.

Engine clearances haven't chaged over the years.


My point is if an engine was designed to use a 50 grade oil then it was designed for the oil to flow through the bearings with a 50 grade oil. There isn't that much of a difference between a 20 and a 30 grade oil. A 50 grade is being forced through the openings and in turn shearing to do its job. If those clearences were designed for a 50 grade oil then they will be no problem. If they weren't the oil will shear as it is forced through. IIRC this came from the people at RP, not something I made up.
 
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