BG ATF flush

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529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Thread starter
Perhaps [Off Topic!] or new topic, but the trans issues being complete, I am wondering about the BG (engine oil) flush. Keep in mind there is no guarantee that an oil change will be done. I do not want their chemicals, I have Auto-RX to last several years but didn't use it because the engine has 50,000 KM at the most and had an oil change or two with way under 3000 miles on the oil, before I bought it. I changed the oil again and shortly thereafter changed it again while installing the by-pass oil filter. What I like about the BG system, but have not seen it in action, is the way it blows air through and gets 1/2 quart or so that would be left in the engine even if the drain plug was out for an hour. Then this air pressure flows oil all through the system after the fresh oil is added. Would this be a good opportunity to take samples of the first few ounces, when the drain plug is still partly in; and another sample mid-stream, and another from that blow-out of the oil that would normally stay trapped, and compare the 3 samples? Expensive and a tad wasteful but if there is real value to it I might consider it. I look forward to your inputs Thanks Rob
 
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Thread starter
Alex P, you wrote "If you can legally run without a cat and you absolutely wanted to run without one..." I don't care about the law, I will keep the catalytic converter unless it is clear that it is toast, is costing me 2+ mpg, etc. Then I think the David Suzuki in me (look up his name on Google if ya have to) would save up for a new (low-restriction, like from a hoppier 3800, perhaps) catalytic converter. THANKS!! Rob
 
Messages
5,336
Location
London, AR
Rob, The cost of the flush versus the drain only method is very wide. And the benefit is minimal to non-existant. Just drain the oil and let your engine enjoy the new fluid. In my diesel, 2 quarts are left in the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) during a oil change. My UOA's are not affected and if the oil change is done the same each time the trend continues. [Smile]
 
Messages
481
Location
Goose Creek, SC
quote:
The cost of the flush versus the drain only method is very wide. And the benefit is minimal to non-existant. Just drain the oil and let your engine enjoy the new fluid. In my diesel, 2 quarts are left in the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) during a oil change. My UOA's are not affected and if the oil change is done the same each time the trend continues.
Tony, you may be surprised to know, that the HPOP reservoir actually only hold about 3/4 of a quart of oil. I have been well aquainted with the reservoir recently dealing with the twin custom HPOP setup on my truck. Hammer
 
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Thread starter
Whether it is 3/4 quart or 2 full quarts, you are saying this test has been done before and there is no need at all for me to do extra tests as a contribution to the BITOG Fellowship? Who tested to learn the difference was minimal to non-existant? It does not make sense that the difference is minimal to non-existant (mind you I'm tired and stuff...) I'm surely not disagreeing, since I have not seen any data whatsoever, I'm just saying it makes sense to me to get out all the old oil, and I'd like to know more about it and WHY this step has no significant effect. As for the cost, if they are going to be replacing the bypass filter element, the labour and time cost difference is kinda elevated anyway. It's just 6 months since my last drain & new spin-on and new by-pass. I wonder if I should even bother with UOA. Perhaps [Off Topic!] again but lately the oil pressure guage has stayed in the (low critical) red zone too long, upon starting. The super-cold temps have not hit yet although I also have not used the heaters (oil, battery, block heater) because I haven't felt the need (only difference between 5W30 and 0W30 is under about -20 C anyway, no?)...what might be the reason? The Redline got thicker in 6 months? Battery issue? I need GC? FWIW the spin-on is under 800 miles in use. THANKS Rob-The-Oil-Nut
 
Messages
304
Location
Spotsyltucky, VA
I'll skip back to the cat issue briefly. On newer 3800 vehicles like my Impala, ANY non-stock catalytic converter will cause the computer to throw a code because of the change in feedback from the O2 sensor. That is unless you use an O2 simulator for the downstream sensor. Keep that in mind. As for the last bit of oil driven out by the air, that's not a big deal. The actual process of chemically flushing or using a product like ARX to clean is one thing. But that last bit of oil just isn't significant, and I'll point out why I feel this way. If you change your oil hot, the oil has been circulated pretty well, and has most of the nasties in suspension. There shouldn't be oil hiding somewhere that is significantly filthier. So that last little bit won't matter, unless your engine holds out a lot more after a drain than 1/2 a quart, and has a small sump. Drain, new filter, fresh oil. As long as you do that roughly on time, you'll be fine oil-wise. I'm not saying that removing that last bit of dirty oil isn't good, but it won't matter much.
 
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Thread starter
D'oh! I just ASSUMED all good mechanics did ALL oil changes with the engine hot. I explained I didn't want / need an oil change but since the intake manifold plenum gasket will be getting done, it is likely that crud will fall into the engine, thus the need. And if there is definate crud in there I'd rather they drain it cold, than have that crud (especially if it's tiny bits of metal!) circulate. Granted, the spin-on and the by-pass should get it, but better safe than lose sleep fretting about the wear numbers being 0.0001 too high [Big Grin] Again, "D'oh!" I feel silly for not having thought that. In a way the BG is a BAD thing as it allows a mechanic to not drain ASAP, but I'm not a mechanic and what I know of their jobs, they cannot be expected to be draining within 5 minutes of getting the car in their bay. They do it real quick at the quickie-marts but going there has, ummm, a few potential draw-backs [Razz] THANKS Rob
 
Messages
66
Location
Lake Charles, LA
If you want a "cheap" brake flush - go to a parts store and purchase a peice of plain rubber hose that will fit over the bleed screw and a quart of fluid. A quart jar is placed under the near the back wheel with the end of the hose submerged in 1" of fluid. Pump the brake until the master cylinder is empty --refill and do it again, but not quite empty, refill, close the bleed screw and the brake is bled and flushed. You can mark the fluid level with a marker after each wheel to keep track of how much fluid you run thru each wheel. Keep the end of hose in the fluid to prevent air from being sucked back into the system when you let up on the pedel. You can do this by yourself, if need be. :>)
 
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Thread starter
Nifty idea but a tad late. It needed quite a flushing, the brake fluid was literally dirtier than my dipstick. In addition, the bleeder screws were siezed / rusted into place and I was told that they might break off. He used some rust penetrating stuff and let it sit, weaseled it back and forth 1 mm each way for about 10 mins before going to 2 and 3 mm of unscrewing. They didn't break off, which is kida too bad because if new ones were going to go on, they could be painted and make my car look a bit hotter [Big Grin] It's out of the 'shop' now and the main thing is, the service engine light came on. Probably an inconvenience or nuissance thing and if not, THEY did it [Big Grin] (but that mechanic is a good, long-time friend) Thanks Rob
 
Messages
596
Location
Oregon
to totally change out your ATF you need at least 12 quarts usually depending on what car you have. dropping the pan is usually about 4-5 quarts the rest is in the torque converter if you do have a shop do it tell them you do not want the additives they can dump it into there oil drain or keep it for themselves
 
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Thread starter
A leak was detected after the flush and a good part of the tranny was dissected and I am told it has had 2 (or more) flushes in the last month or so. The ATF that is in there, I was assured, was the Redline I ordered up from the US. I'm really looking forward to November of 2007 when I can have it flushed again. Then again the car could be written off or sold by then. Part of me is kinda hoping [Embarrassed] But I have grown fond of the car and having parted with $2500+ in 6 weeks just makes me more dedicated to keeping it as long as possible. This is only my second real car, I am sure most of the people reading this have had many more cars. [Off Topic!] My dad has made a science of buying used vehicles with a formula for their age, odometer, price range, etc. and then buys one, and 2-3 years later sells it for a very high % of what he had paid for it. I thank all those that buy their cars new, for stimulating the economy. I can't afford it and I shudder at the immediate depreciation (buy a car for $35,000 and drive it home from the dealer, then try to sell it and see how close to $35,000 you get for it [Mad] 2 hours 15 mins to 2006... Rob
 
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