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If you've been using M1 keep using it. Looking at uoa's it seems like M1 can really take a beating while showing probably the lowest wear metals.
Best synthetic for Mazda Direct Injection?
- Thread starter perryg114
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Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
I vote to treat this Mazda DI engine just as you would a Mazda Rotary. A redline a day keeps the carbon away. Just give it a good hard drive once a week and the heat helps burn off the carbon. Often times, when I have seen excessive amounts of carbon on any intake valve or inside of a piston, it has belonged to someone who just drives and doesn't take the time to hit the gas pedal and enjoy it. Cars are built to be used all throughout their rev range up until the redline in day to day use.
I believe there is a lot of truth to this.
I vote to treat this Mazda DI engine just as you would a Mazda Rotary. A redline a day keeps the carbon away. Just give it a good hard drive once a week and the heat helps burn off the carbon. Often times, when I have seen excessive amounts of carbon on any intake valve or inside of a piston, it has belonged to someone who just drives and doesn't take the time to hit the gas pedal and enjoy it. Cars are built to be used all throughout their rev range up until the redline in day to day use.
I believe there is a lot of truth to this.
I remember reading a Korean research paper that someone posted here about DI intake deposit, and it says that running the engine hard as well as using group 4 engine oil and change frequently reduces it.
Some OEM seems to run their intake valve hot to burn off the carbon, while others use port injection together with DI to keep the intake valve clean.
Some OEM seems to run their intake valve hot to burn off the carbon, while others use port injection together with DI to keep the intake valve clean.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Blame the oil lol so easy to do.
I got to agree, know of no problems with oil and deposits. We have a 2012 Skyactive, thing is a blast to drive, runs like a swiss watch, quite an engine too.
Highest compression mass produced engine in the world and runs on regular gas. That isnt exactly a low tech engine.
Oh .. oil, this is a oil forum! I use any 5/30 oil from Walmart, syn or conventional. Right now I have conventional Havoline 5/30 in it, before that conventional Valvoline. Maybe if I was in a colder climate I might be tempted to use a 5/20, maybe. I do have a container of GTX already for next winter, that is a conv 5/20 that I decided I do not want to run in hot weather and most likely once its gone stick to the 5/30.
But doesnt matter, use any SN rated oil, conventional or syn your good to go. Oil is pretty much a feel good thing if your using the oil with the correct rating, unless a company can PROVE to you with facts anything more superior, which they never do. (just my opinion)
I change about every 4 months which is around 4000 miles give or take a few.
Blame the oil lol so easy to do.
I got to agree, know of no problems with oil and deposits. We have a 2012 Skyactive, thing is a blast to drive, runs like a swiss watch, quite an engine too.
Highest compression mass produced engine in the world and runs on regular gas. That isnt exactly a low tech engine.
Oh .. oil, this is a oil forum! I use any 5/30 oil from Walmart, syn or conventional. Right now I have conventional Havoline 5/30 in it, before that conventional Valvoline. Maybe if I was in a colder climate I might be tempted to use a 5/20, maybe. I do have a container of GTX already for next winter, that is a conv 5/20 that I decided I do not want to run in hot weather and most likely once its gone stick to the 5/30.
But doesnt matter, use any SN rated oil, conventional or syn your good to go. Oil is pretty much a feel good thing if your using the oil with the correct rating, unless a company can PROVE to you with facts anything more superior, which they never do. (just my opinion)
I change about every 4 months which is around 4000 miles give or take a few.
Last edited:
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Amen alarmguy.
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
Originally Posted By: dave123
Blame the oil lol so easy to do.
I got to agree, know of no problems with oil and deposits. We have a 2012 Skyactive, thing is a blast to drive, runs like a swiss watch, quite an engine too.
Highest compression mass produced engine in the world and runs on regular gas. That isnt exactly a low tech engine.
Oh .. oil, this is a oil forum! I use any 5/30 oil from Walmart, syn or conventional. Right now I have conventional Havoline 5/30 in it, before that conventional Valvoline. Maybe if I was in a colder climate I might be tempted to use a 5/20, maybe. I do have a container of GTX already for next winter, that is a conv 5/20 that I decided I do not want to run in hot weather and most likely once its gone stick to the 5/30.
But doesnt matter, use any SN rated oil, conventional or syn your good to go. Oil is pretty much a feel good thing if your using the oil with the correct rating, unless a company can PROVE to you with facts anything more superior, which they never do. (just my opinion)
I change about every 4 months which is around 4000 miles give or take a few.
I just started running 5w20 no problem, I would just do it
Originally Posted By: dave123
Blame the oil lol so easy to do.
I got to agree, know of no problems with oil and deposits. We have a 2012 Skyactive, thing is a blast to drive, runs like a swiss watch, quite an engine too.
Highest compression mass produced engine in the world and runs on regular gas. That isnt exactly a low tech engine.
Oh .. oil, this is a oil forum! I use any 5/30 oil from Walmart, syn or conventional. Right now I have conventional Havoline 5/30 in it, before that conventional Valvoline. Maybe if I was in a colder climate I might be tempted to use a 5/20, maybe. I do have a container of GTX already for next winter, that is a conv 5/20 that I decided I do not want to run in hot weather and most likely once its gone stick to the 5/30.
But doesnt matter, use any SN rated oil, conventional or syn your good to go. Oil is pretty much a feel good thing if your using the oil with the correct rating, unless a company can PROVE to you with facts anything more superior, which they never do. (just my opinion)
I change about every 4 months which is around 4000 miles give or take a few.
I just started running 5w20 no problem, I would just do it
BMW has a special 0w20 for some of their GDI turbo engines. If this oil has something special for GDI engines it might be beneficial to other GDI engines.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
BMW has a special 0w20 for some of their GDI turbo engines. If this oil has something special for GDI engines it might be beneficial to other GDI engines.
It has some unicorn tears for extra protection
BMW has a special 0w20 for some of their GDI turbo engines. If this oil has something special for GDI engines it might be beneficial to other GDI engines.
It has some unicorn tears for extra protection
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: wemay
The vast majority of D.I. applications have experienced zero issues, even when reaching high mileage.
Internet noise is strong with this one.
Millions of GDI engines on the road...with only a handful on internet forums complaining about them. In fact many of the negative comments on GDI engines come from armchair engineers who don't even own a GDI vehicle...
To the OP:
M1 EP would be a solid choice for sure, there are $12 rebates for 5 gallon jugs right now as well.
The vast majority of D.I. applications have experienced zero issues, even when reaching high mileage.
Internet noise is strong with this one.
Millions of GDI engines on the road...with only a handful on internet forums complaining about them. In fact many of the negative comments on GDI engines come from armchair engineers who don't even own a GDI vehicle...
To the OP:
M1 EP would be a solid choice for sure, there are $12 rebates for 5 gallon jugs right now as well.
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: MCompact
I ran M1 5W-30 in my 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 for over 158k miles with no deposit or wear issues at all.
Which does not have a DI engine.
Wrong: Ward's 10 Best Engines 2007
Originally Posted By: MCompact
I ran M1 5W-30 in my 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 for over 158k miles with no deposit or wear issues at all.
Which does not have a DI engine.
Wrong: Ward's 10 Best Engines 2007
I have been running the Mazda 3 Skyactive with M1 0W20 or 0W-30 and the car runs great and burns no oil. It has over 30k miles on it now. I run the [censored] out of it. From what I have read, the Skyactive engine lets the intake valves run hot to reduce the condensation of carbon. The engine top end is a bit noisy but I attribute that to the injector pop more than anything. It has got to make more noise than a low pressure injector.
Perry
Perry
If you're concerned about carbon deposits, the use of a VW504/507 or DEXOS2 oil with 0.6% and 0.8% SAPS respectively will give you added protection and piece of mind. Both oils are SN-API rated and C3-ACEA rated. Ford also have some mid SAPS (0.8%) oils that would be suitable and possibly comply with GF-5 ISLAC, but I'm less familiar with the Ford specs.
To avoid sludge in my sludge prone Saab 9-5, I follow my own advice. VW504 or DEXOS2 oil from the Helix Ultra range is all I use and couldn't be happier. Lower SAPS oils are also less prone to carbon deposits in turbocharger bearings on engine shutdown, which is also important for me.
Regards
Jordan
To avoid sludge in my sludge prone Saab 9-5, I follow my own advice. VW504 or DEXOS2 oil from the Helix Ultra range is all I use and couldn't be happier. Lower SAPS oils are also less prone to carbon deposits in turbocharger bearings on engine shutdown, which is also important for me.
Regards
Jordan
We just bought a cx-5 with the skyactiv 2.5g. I have not heard much about mazda having intake valve issues, its why we went the mazda route.
I worry more about fuel dilution than intake valve deposits in this engine. Since its new and cooler weather, i'm breaking it in with mazda with moly 0w20( idemitsu).
When summer hits I will probably buy mobil 0w20 so i have a receipt for warranty, and spike it with a quart or so of mobil 1 0w 40.
I worry more about fuel dilution than intake valve deposits in this engine. Since its new and cooler weather, i'm breaking it in with mazda with moly 0w20( idemitsu).
When summer hits I will probably buy mobil 0w20 so i have a receipt for warranty, and spike it with a quart or so of mobil 1 0w 40.
My wife has a 2016.5 CX-5 and it is a great car. We pulled a 5x8 cargo trailer to FL and back (700 mile one way) and it had plenty of power even on the way back with a trailer full of stuff. It burned a small amount of oil when new but I think it is getting better. We are talking less than half a quart between oil changes. I been using 7000 mile OCI and want to run it to 10,000 when it gets out of warranty. I use M1 0-w20 and 0-w30. We went with Mazda on her car because it has a 6 speed automatic as opposed to the rubber band drive CVT's that seem to still have some long term reliability issues. 100k miles is just getting broken in for us and who know what happens to the CVT's when you get to those mileages. I am waiting to see how those pan out. Nissan has had a lot of problems with them.
Perry
Originally Posted By: spasm3
We just bought a cx-5 with the skyactiv 2.5g. I have not heard much about mazda having intake valve issues, its why we went the mazda route.
I worry more about fuel dilution than intake valve deposits in this engine. Since its new and cooler weather, i'm breaking it in with mazda with moly 0w20( idemitsu).
When summer hits I will probably buy mobil 0w20 so i have a receipt for warranty, and spike it with a quart or so of mobil 1 0w 40.
Perry
Originally Posted By: spasm3
We just bought a cx-5 with the skyactiv 2.5g. I have not heard much about mazda having intake valve issues, its why we went the mazda route.
I worry more about fuel dilution than intake valve deposits in this engine. Since its new and cooler weather, i'm breaking it in with mazda with moly 0w20( idemitsu).
When summer hits I will probably buy mobil 0w20 so i have a receipt for warranty, and spike it with a quart or so of mobil 1 0w 40.
I used to run Rotella T6 5W-40 in my Speed3, but that was DI Turbo
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