Best Practices for Track/Street use - Lotus Emira

[chriscpmtmp]

This is a sort of a combination of Track posts, oil change interval, and filter change interval posts.

I have a Lotus Emira - 6 cylinder supercharged. Toyota block. The car is super difficult to change the filter. I do push the redline on the track - over 6,000 a lot.

There's 50 or so bolts on two big metal plates underneath the car. I did it for the first oil change at my buddy's house. I was pretty sore after. It was like a major work out lying on the ground and stretching over my head with a small impact.

I'm a pretty big fan of not over changing the oil. But going to the track, I'm reading up and asking what people are doing and see super early oil changes - 2,500 is one track guy.

So I'm going back to the Track this Friday. I don't have time to do a filter change. My original thought was to drain 2 quarts through the dipstick, then refresh. Instead, I just drained it all and replaced. It was so easy with my buddy’s rig. I originally thought that was a short-term solution. But reading the filter change interval threads, maybe that's fine.

The car calls for 0W40 - Synthetic, with the A3/B4 spec. When I did the first oil change, I only found Castro. But I see there is a mobile1 product, which is actually cheaper. I think these are similar, right?

I’m a little over 3k miles. Probably 1/3 track laps. I’m sending in a sample for analysis.

Any thoughts on the interval and filter and brand?

Chris

 

[JavierH19]

It'll be good with any euro 30/40 oil and if it was mine I'd play it extra safe and change frequently like at 3-4k miles. There's something about early changes that helps timing component life.

as for the filter does it take this toyota part number 04152-YZZA1?

Also is there any reason you can't reroute the drain bolt by using a rubber oil hose? I've seen that before.

 

[RooflessVW]

Filters do what they do until they're clogged. No need to change the filter every time.

 

[CarlB]

Not what you want to hear, but plan for a dry sump to track the V6 once you start really leaning on the car in corners.
https://www.jubu-performance.com/en/shop/part-jubu_trockensumpf_system_2grfe-2131

 

[mitsuman47]

Premium Guard’s XL (and the brands they also manufacture such as Micro Guard Select at O’Reilly) have gained a strong following lately for their build quality. I’d favor the ones made in Vietnam because…reasons.

Anyways, I’d have no problem pulling the oil every 3-4k miles (or even more frequently) and only changing the filter every 10k with a proper filter.

Cool car. The more pictures you post of it, the more advice you get. I think that’s how it works anyway. lol

 

[Cujet]

2500 miles is not "super early or too frequent" for track day cars. 1000 to 1500 is common among track warriors. Also, make sure to choose a robust oil with adequate viscosity.

How about a remote filter setup for ease of filter change and the use of a larger filter?

 

[edyvw]

Mobil1 0W40 is good.
However if you are out of warranty, switch to track specific, more robust oil if you are tracking a lot.
Motul 300V 10W40 would be my go to oil. Expensive? Yes.
If that is too much money ($40 for 2ltr) try Motul Power 5W40 (not sure does it exist in 10W40).
HPL is another good one for track and extended OCI. Euro 5W40 or BAS 5W40.
What is your oil temperature on track?

 

[sfbmw]

A3/B4 is a generic European spec. Plenty of oils of others the Castrol or Mobil out there that conform.

Depending on your oil temps you may be able to extend your OCIs if you're using a shear stable oil. Do multiple UOAs to confirm.

Motul 300V 10W40 would be my go to oil.

Why 10W40 over 5W40 or 0W40 in 300V?

 

[edyvw]

A3/B4 is a generic European spec. Plenty of oils of others the Castrol or Mobil out there that conform.

Depending on your oil temps you may be able to extend your OCIs if you're using a shear stable oil. Do multiple UOAs to confirm.

Why 10W40 over 5W40 or 0W40 in 300V?

It will be more shear stable.

 

[Averroes]

Nice car.


You’re using a good oil but it will sheer.

Like it’s been stated use a 5w/10w oil with a 40 end weight. Motul 300V, HPL or Redline. Track and then drive normally afterwards with no issues I’d say. I’d still keep intervals to 4-5k miles or one year.

Filter? Well, I’ll leave it at Carquest premium or OEM.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

Thanks for all the comments.
I'm really bummed that I found a big puddle of oil when I got home last night. Before the oil change. I didn't do the filter. So it didn't leak for 2 months. Then started after the last track day.

One buddy says these cars all tend to leak from the oil pan gasket. My other buddy says its too much to ignore. Pull the bottom plate (the 54 bolts) and take a look. I have all the stuff ready for the morning. I hope it's the filter gasket.

 

[TiGeo]

I track my VW Sportwagen. Last year went 8.5K mi and 8 track days and a few autocrosses on a single change. HPL Euro 5W40. Did a mid- and ending-UOA; results posted here/easy to find. Looked fine. Fram Endurance filter. Car makes around 400hp out of a turbo 1.8. My oil will sit at 260-280 deg F on track. Can't recommend anything else and can't see why this wouldn't work in your case for a longer service interval.

 

[Jerrysends]

Can you get most of the oil out through the dipstick with your extraction pump? Nothing wrong with changing the oil this way.

 

[edyvw]

Thanks for all the comments.
I'm really bummed that I found a big puddle of oil when I got home last night. Before the oil change. I didn't do the filter. So it didn't leak for 2 months. Then started after the last track day.

One buddy says these cars all tend to leak from the oil pan gasket. My other buddy says its too much to ignore. Pull the bottom plate (the 54 bolts) and take a look. I have all the stuff ready for the morning. I hope it's the filter gasket.

Too much for the gasket. Unless gasket on oil filter gave up.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

It'll be good with any euro 30/40 oil and if it was mine I'd play it extra safe and change frequently like at 3-4k miles. There's something about early changes that helps timing component life.

as for the filter does it take this toyota part number 04152-YZZA1?

Also is there any reason you can't reroute the drain bolt by using a rubber oil hose? I've seen that before.

That is the filter.

So the hose would be a one time thing to make future oil changes easier?

3-4k makes sense. 2.5k seems overkill.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

Not what you want to hear, but plan for a dry sump to track the V6 once you start really leaning on the car in corners.
https://www.jubu-performance.com/en/shop/part-jubu_trockensumpf_system_2grfe-2131

That looks expensive. I'm leaning now though.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

Premium Guard’s XL (and the brands they also manufacture such as Micro Guard Select at O’Reilly) have gained a strong following lately for their build quality. I’d favor the ones made in Vietnam because…reasons.

Anyways, I’d have no problem pulling the oil every 3-4k miles (or even more frequently) and only changing the filter every 10k with a proper filter.

Cool car. The more pictures you post of it, the more advice you get. I think that’s how it works anyway. lol

Thanks. With the extraction, it is so much easier.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

Mobil1 0W40 is good.
However if you are out of warranty, switch to track specific, more robust oil if you are tracking a lot.
Motul 300V 10W40 would be my go to oil. Expensive? Yes.
If that is too much money ($40 for 2ltr) try Motul Power 5W40 (not sure does it exist in 10W40).
HPL is another good one for track and extended OCI. Euro 5W40 or BAS 5W40.
What is your oil temperature on track?

The factory spec is 0w40. I wonder why they do that? I'm always leery about going out of spec.

 

[Zaedock]

We use Castrol Euro 0W40 in our driver/tracked tuned Stinger GT2 (twin turbo).

I would say, wait for the analysis to come back to see how yours held up.
We run around 4K mile intervals in summer with the mixed use, but do not hit the track as often as you.

 

[TiGeo]

The factory spec is 0w40. I wonder why they do that? I'm always leery about going out of spec.

0W40 is a grade. A 5W40 effectively is the same viscosity...they are 40 grades falling within the 40 grade range at 100 deg C so 12.5 to ~16 cSt. The 0 winter rating part really isn't material unless it's very cold where you are. Looks like they call for an A3/B4 so basically a Euro 40 with VW502 Porsche A40 etc. You can use any grade meeting that requirement so not locked in to a 0W40 even though that's fine. Again..HPL 5W40 Euro would be perfect here and has slightly higher HTHS than their 0W40 product and is great for track use with longer drains. Note that while HPLs products are intended to act like oils with the actual approvals in terms of their specifications they have no formal approvals. This shouldn't be an issue or concern by someone tracking a performance car, these products are top of the line and will exceed the performance of the Castrol you are using (not that there is anything wrong with that oil).