Best oil for 2005 GMC Canyon

[cryption]

My buddy wants to learn to change the oil in his truck, but I'm a VW guy so I don't know the least thing about the I5 they put in the Canyon/Colorado.

The truck has 48,xxx Miles

We live in Houston, TX - the average summer temp will be in the high 90s to low 100s.

The truck sees mostly City driving and short trips, and he drives the truck pretty hard

the truck runs tip top.

He is undecided if he wants to switch to synthetic or not. Can someone chime in what oils they run in their I5? Both dyno and synthetic please, so I can pick the right oil based on his decision.

Thanks BITOG!

Rule 1:

 

[Steve S]

Use the viscosity the mfg recommends. Any quality oil will serve you well. Syn is good if you greatly extend your oil change intervals though syn is really a waste of money if you are changing your oil per recommended oil change intervals. Todays oils are that good.

 

[StevieC]

Nice truck... Follow Service Manual specifications and service interval for "Severe Service"

-Run any dino for that length of time listed with a quality filter like a Purolator PureOne or M1 (EG: 3,000 Miles)

-Run any Synthetic twice the Severe Service recommendation (Eg: 6,000 Miles) with a good filter like a PureOne or M1

Tell him to Drive Happy!

 

[Steve S]

I would say 5,000 dino 10,000 miles syn. This is not the 1960s.

 

[cryption]

I find my car runs best on Valvoline, are there any brands Canyon owners find run best in their trucks?

 

[cryption]

also any specific weights? For example I swear by 5w-40 on my Volkswagen I-5 after trying 0w30 (GC) and 10w-40 but my neighbor swears up and down on 10w-40

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: Steve S
I would say 5,000 dino 10,000 miles syn. This is not the 1960s.
If you read my post I said follow the manual... and EG: means Example I wasn't implying that he use a 3,000 / 6,000 mile OCI... His friends driving is considered Severe Service because he's hard on the truck and drives in the city.

How is that 1960's?

 

[SnPb]

I have the 4.2L I6 that is in the same family as the 3.5L I5. They aren't hard on oil so any brand name API SM oil should be acceptable. The owners manual for my 2003 says that 5W-30 is preferred but that 10W-30 is acceptable above 0 F. 10W-30 might be a better choice in a hot climate such as South Texas. The owners manual goes on to say to change the oil as dictated by the Oil Life Monitor, or every 3000 miles (which is probably a little on the short side). My OLM usually goes off around 8K miles.

 

[cryption]

I'm wondering if I should just split the difference and get the Valvoline synthetic blend.

I need to look up what oils are certified by GM for that engine

 

[StevieC]

It's a GM... Other things will go wrong with it, not usually the engine or transmission even if you were to use the wrong specification for oil.

They aren't fussy.

 

[SnPb]

If you are pinching pennies I would go with conventional oil, either Pennzoil Yellow or Valvoline White. For a few dollars more get the full "Synthetic". I have used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in the past and the next fill will be Valvoline Synpower 10W-30. I don't really understand the purpose of the synthetic blends when the price difference between conventional and synthetic isn't all that great.

 

[cryption]

That really is a good point on the blends. Unless I can find some MC on sale, I might as well get the castrol synthetic deal at the zone

 

[StevieC]

Up here the cheapest synthetic is usually 3 times the price of dino.

 

[daman]

The truck probably specs 5w30? nothing thicker is need

if he runs her hard i'd go syn,WM has good prices on M1 and PP take her out per OLM.

 

[Alex38]

10w30 dino in the summer, 5w30 dino in the winter. 4-5k change intervals due to the city driving. Buy whatever name brand dino is on sale.

 

[rokwldr]

I hav been using 10w30 mobil 1 syn in both my GMC Canyon & Envoy. both have about 50,000 miles. I also pull a boat that weighs 3700 lbs, only 300 lbs short of max. I have never had an oil related problem, and have been using M1 for 25 years. It probaly isn't the best rated, but it is good and easy to find. Now about 28 bucks for 5 qts at wallyworld.

 

[mshu7]

The engine calls for 5w30, as someone else already pointed out.

I have about 116K miles on my '04 Colorado 4x4 with the 3.5L I-5. I tow a 17.5 foot Bass Tracker boat on occasion in the summer. I've had good luck with Mobil1 0w30 Advanced Fuel Economy @ 7500 mile intervals. I'm taking it to 10k intervals next round.

My climate isn't the same as TX, but any flavor of M1 has always served me well no matter the vehicle or other circumstances. And as the poster above mentioned, M1 is easily found in 5 qt. jugs at Wally World for $27-$28 currently.

 

[rossn2]

I live in Central Tx where last summer we had over 100 days of plus 100 temps. I've had both a GMC Canyon (4cyl) and CHEV Colorado (5cyl. They both got Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 (5qt jugs from Wally world)during the summer and 5w-30 during the winter with either GM or Wix filter and 5000 miles oil change intervals. Never had any issues. And, a lot of the GM dealerships in Texas are using 10w-30 bulk oil..

 

[bandz7]

I've tried them ALL. VWB, Valvoline SynPower, RP 5W-30, M1 5W-30 and now I'm using PU 5W-30. It doesn't matter what oil you use.

I've heard of possible fuel dilution b/c of the direct injection. Anybody had this problem with the Canyons

 

[Mr_Joe]

Most any will do, I use synthetic in the Winter here. Don't get so wrapped up in oil & neglect other areas. A few are the air filter, differential fluid, transfer case if 4x4, fuel filter if applicable & even new upgraded wiper blades are nice. It doesn't take much to rotate tires at home if you have a floor jack.

I loosly follow maint scedules adjusted for how I drive.