Best of the "designer" oil filters.

[stchman]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: Cristobal
Amsoil filters are the best but the others are 95% as good in my opinion. I will run a filter to 15000 miles maximum, so the other lines are every bit as effective for all practical purposes.


How do you determine Amsoil filters are the "best"?


By the "marketing" numbers.

Or "the Amsoil rep said so".

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: Cristobal
Amsoil filters are the best but the others are 95% as good in my opinion. I will run a filter to 15000 miles maximum, so the other lines are every bit as effective for all practical purposes.


How do you determine Amsoil filters are the "best"?


By the "marketing" numbers.

Or "the Amsoil rep said so".


Actually, Amsoil does a lot of independent testing so it doesn't look like they are "messin' with the numbers".

 

[dlundblad]

Shouldn't Wix be on that list? Its like half the price of a Mobil 1 filter. Plus the parts place seems to ALWAYS be sold out/ picked over.

Not sure if this is related, but ever since I started running a Mobil 1 filter my oil pressure always ran just a little higher than it did with anything else. Regardless of the oil weight. A small google on the subject lead me to believe the Mobil 1 filter does "too" good of a job filtering due to all of the excessing filtering media. Makes sense I suppose.. More material to filter through would make your engine work harder.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad

Not sure if this is related, but ever since I started running a Mobil 1 filter my oil pressure always ran just a little higher than it did with anything else. Regardless of the oil weight.


You'd only see a difference in oil pressure with a more/less restrictive flowing oil oil filter if:

a) The oil pressure sensor is before the filter instead of after. Most vehicles have the oil pressure sensor after the filter.
b) The positive displacement oil pump is running at pressure relief.

With a positive displacement oil pump (not running in pressure relief), and with the oil pressure sensor after the filter, the oil pressure should be the same regardless of what filter is being used (if the oil's viscosity is the same). That's the engineering logic, and my experience with a vehicle that has on-board oil temp and pressure sensors.

 

[dnewton3]

There is no "best" oil filter.

There are many good ones. Some of those are a "better" fit, application specific to the OCI, use, environment, etc.

Anyone who tells you they know which is "best" fulfilling their fantasy and your wish list.

Only a large scale, massive investment of time, money and patience in a properly scaled DOE study would reveal what's "best" and that would only be applicable to the parameters of the test.

You have defined no criteria that would make fair bounds for observation or delineation. Your open-ended question cannot be accurately or honestly answered, despite what the rampant brand loyalty would indicate.

 

[ZeeOSix]

In my mind, two filters I consider "best for me" based on my use and criteria (which I have many requirements) are:

A) Purolator PureOne
and
B) Fram Ultra

 

[gregk24]

I think you are paying for a name if you are paying that much for an oil filter. A Fram Ultra is only $9 and preforms just as well if not better.

 

[Cristobal]

Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: Cristobal
Amsoil filters are the best but the others are 95% as good in my opinion. I will run a filter to 15000 miles maximum, so the other lines are every bit as effective for all practical purposes.


How do you determine Amsoil filters are the "best"?


General reputation.

 

[stchman]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
In my mind, two filters I consider "best for me" based on my use and criteria (which I have many requirements) are:

A) Purolator PureOne
and
B) Fram Ultra


What are your uses and criteria?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
In my mind, two filters I consider "best for me" based on my use and criteria (which I have many requirements) are:

A) Purolator PureOne
and
B) Fram Ultra


What are your uses and criteria?


Everyone has their own reasons for choosing the products they do (rightfully), but these are my criteria. I choose oil filters that match as many of these criteria as possible.

1) Metal end caps and metal center tube.
2) Silicone ADBV.
3) High efficiency (at least 95% @ 20 microns or better).
4) "Larger" up-size if possible/available.
5) Large media area (also related to 3 above).
6) Grippy surface for easy hand I&R (I have over a dozen filter end cap tools and DON'T want 2 dozen).

7) Decent price and easy availability.

I use the PureOne for OCIs of 5~6K miles. Use the Ultra for OCIs of 10~12K miles (one OCI with synthetic or 2 OCIs with dino).

 

[ZeeOSix]

Found this in my archives. Look at the 3rd post down in this link:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/synthetic-filtering-media-total-surface-area.102051/

 

[stchman]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
In my mind, two filters I consider "best for me" based on my use and criteria (which I have many requirements) are:

A) Purolator PureOne
and
B) Fram Ultra


What are your uses and criteria?


Everyone has their own reasons for choosing the products they do (rightfully), but these are my criteria. I choose oil filters that match as many of these criteria as possible.

1) Metal end caps and metal center tube.
2) Silicone ADBV.
3) High efficiency (at least 95% @ 20 microns or better).
4) "Larger" up-size if possible/available.
5) Large media area (also related to 3 above).
6) Grippy surface for easy hand I&R (I have over a dozen filter end cap tools and DON'T want 2 dozen).

7) Decent price and easy availability.

I use the PureOne for OCIs of 5~6K miles. Use the Ultra for OCIs of 10~12K miles (one OCI with synthetic or 2 OCIs with dino).


1. Agree

2. The silicon vs nitrile rubber ADBV is almost pointless. Unless you are going to leave the filter on for 5 years or run the engine at -20F, either ADBV will do its job.

3. Pretty much every oil filter out there does that.

4. Putting any filter on but the recommended filter is a big mistake. The designer designed the engine to use that specific filter. Changing to a larger one because one "feels" that it has 10% more filter area is a bad idea.

5. Refer to 4.

6. Depending on where the filter is located determines if a special removal tool is needed. On all the vehicles I've ever owned, the simple metal strap wrench does the job.

7. Reason I choose AC Delco oil fiters, metal end caps (non-E model), available at any Walmart or auto parts store, priced reasonably, and is OEM for GM vehicles.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: stchman

3. Pretty much every oil filter out there does that.

4. Putting any filter on but the recommended filter is a big mistake. The designer designed the engine to use that specific filter. Changing to a larger one because one "feels" that it has 10% more filter area is a bad idea.


3) Not really. My two "go-to" filters are actually 99% @ 20 microns, BUT if I had to use one with lower efficiency it would have to be no worse than 95% @ 20 microns. You know the Motorcrafts were advertised at "80% @ 20 microns" by Ford, but Amsoil pulled them out of the fire some, and even with the Amsoil test data (93.7% @ 20 microns) they still wouldn't meet my use spec. Plus Honda & Toyota OEM filters are gravel traps (66% and 51% @ 20 microns respectively) only compared to some of the high efficiency aftermarket filter out there. If I owned a Honda, I'd be using a PureOne on it, and I do currently use a PureOne on my Tacoma.

4) Not if you know what you're doing.

Like I said, everyone has their own reasons and does what they feel is best for them. I could care less what others do.

 

[99Saturn]

Originally Posted By: stchman
2. The silicon vs nitrile rubber ADBV is almost pointless. Unless you are going to leave the filter on for 5 years or run the engine at -20F, either ADBV will do its job.

I think many that have had start-up noise or a low oil pressure light at start-up would disagree with you there.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
4) Not if you know what you're doing.

I'd agree with that. I'm generally quite against upsizing, but my last Hastings was an upsize on the G. They didn't have any of the correct one left, so I grabbed an upsize. I chose not to go on a filter hunt that day, that's all.

 

[stchman]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: stchman

3. Pretty much every oil filter out there does that.

4. Putting any filter on but the recommended filter is a big mistake. The designer designed the engine to use that specific filter. Changing to a larger one because one "feels" that it has 10% more filter area is a bad idea.


3) Not really. My two "go-to" filters are actually 99% @ 20 microns, BUT if I had to use one with lower efficiency it would have to be no worse than 95% @ 20 microns. You know the Motorcrafts were advertised at "80% @ 20 microns" by Ford, but Amsoil pulled them out of the fire some, and even with the Amsoil test data (93.7% @ 20 microns) they still wouldn't meet my use spec. Plus Honda & Toyota OEM filters are gravel traps (66% and 51% @ 20 microns respectively) only compared to some of the high efficiency aftermarket filter out there. If I owned a Honda, I'd be using a PureOne on it, and I do currently use a PureOne on my Tacoma.

4) Not if you know what you're doing.

Like I said, everyone has their own reasons and does what they feel is best for them. I could care less what others do.

It's good to see that a $4 oil filter(PF48) is within 3% of a $17 filter(Amsoil).

Everything I've read is that Fram makes the OEM oil filter for Honda here in the US.

I still would not be swapping out filters because one is 1" longer. My vehicle is still under warranty, and if there ever was an engine problem, the WRONG filter on the engine would be a huge red flag.

 

[stchman]

Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
Originally Posted By: stchman
2. The silicon vs nitrile rubber ADBV is almost pointless. Unless you are going to leave the filter on for 5 years or run the engine at -20F, either ADBV will do its job.

I think many that have had start-up noise or a low oil pressure light at start-up would disagree with you there.


My 1998 Chevrolet C1500 with a 4.3L engine used to have a slight rattle upon startup. I was using a Valvoline oil filter, and the service guy at GM suggested using an AC Delco oil filter. After switching to an AC Delco, the rattle never happened ever again.

 

[stchman]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
4) Not if you know what you're doing.

I'd agree with that. I'm generally quite against upsizing, but my last Hastings was an upsize on the G. They didn't have any of the correct one left, so I grabbed an upsize. I chose not to go on a filter hunt that day, that's all.


I would only consider upsizing IF the filter manufacturer explicitly stated(in writing) that filter B can be used in place of filter A if filter A cannot be obtained. This way you have a leg to stand on.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: stchman
I still would not be swapping out filters because one is 1" longer. My vehicle is still under warranty, and if there ever was an engine problem, the WRONG filter on the engine would be a huge red flag.


True, and if I still had a vehicle under warranty I would use the OEM or specified aftermarket filter until out of warranty. BUT, if you did use an aftermarket filter and/or one that was larger, the dealership would have to prove that the non-specified filter caused the failure. I'm sure it would be an ugly situation, but they still need to prove it caused the failure.

 

[stchman]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: stchman
I still would not be swapping out filters because one is 1" longer. My vehicle is still under warranty, and if there ever was an engine problem, the WRONG filter on the engine would be a huge red flag.


True, and if I still had a vehicle under warranty I would use the OEM or specified aftermarket filter until out of warranty. BUT, if you did use an aftermarket filter and/or one that was larger, the dealership would have to prove that the non-specified filter caused the failure. I'm sure it would be an ugly situation, but they still need to prove it caused the failure.


Seeing that I don't have lawyers on retainer like GM or other automakers do, I'll stick with the OEM oil filter. The OEM filter is inexpensive and warranty proof. I'm quite sure it would be a long, drawn out affair, and I would probably be without a vehicle for some time.