Ah, was thinking it is coolant/fluid heat exchanger.
Best C30/VW507 oil for towing with high temps
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It's a pretty good size too.
2011-2017 Volkswagen Touareg Trans Cooler 7P0-317-019-B | OEM Parts Online
2011-2017 Volkswagen Touareg Trans Cooler 7P0-317-019-B
vw.oempartsonline.com
Yes. OP needs to back off gas padel a bitIt's a pretty good size too.
2011-2017 Volkswagen Touareg Trans Cooler 7P0-317-019-B | OEM Parts Online
2011-2017 Volkswagen Touareg Trans Cooler 7P0-317-019-B
Also, besides running less coolant, heat at full strength and no AC will help.
Unfortunately the engine oil cooler is a junk water-oil brick stuck in the V.Yes. OP needs to back off gas padel a bit
Also, besides running less coolant, heat at full strength and no AC will help.
Well, if OP lowers the coolant level, heat dissipation capacity will increase. It might help a bit. I always lower coolant concentration before track season. I basically run 10/90% for summer. I think Audi (maybe Porsche too) has in manual that if one tracks car it should lower concetration.
A few of you have mentioned lowering the coolant concentration, but this will only lower coolant temps, correct? Coolant temps don't budge and stay right at 200F. It's the oil temps that worry me. Guess I'll just slow down a bit
It increases heat transfer. So the coolant should pull more heat from the oil and shed more heat through the radiator.A few of you have mentioned lowering the coolant concentration, but this will only lower coolant temps, correct? Coolant temps don't budge and stay right at 200F. It's the oil temps that worry me. Guess I'll just slow down a bit
I'd bet you read it on the dash. It's a FAKE coolant gauge like that one on any VW, Audi and many modern vehicles.
At 290°F oil temp your coolant is at least above of 230°F, maybe 240°F. THIS is your actual problem, as it also means excessive cylinder head temps!
Yes, slowing down is a proper suggestion as well as changing the coolant mix to a 65-70 % destilled water content (depending on freezing needs).
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I did not know this. Always wondered how the gauge stayed so steady.
Yes, many of the coolant gauges are completely controlled by the electronics and do not report true coolant temperature. I hope they report at least cold, normal, very very hot/overheating.
Unfortunately, normal people prefer this solution over a gauge that follows the real temperature and moves too much and too often.
My colleague once had to change the software to make the temperature look more stable in order to make the customer happy - it was part of an industrial process control system.
Fortunately yes. At the extremes this gauge is fairly close to being true, but between 70°C (160°F) and 115°C (240°F) or so it shows 90°C (195°F) on the dash (incl. on the infotainment on some models).
Exactly, just to satisfy customers and avoid annoying debates with customers (particularly with teachers). One more reason, probably the most importan reason: the modern thermal management controlled by the ECU.
That TM varies the coolant temp by purpose depending on load/strain (acceleration, speed) and environment temperature. During cruising the ECU will attempt to reach 110°C (230°), which it won't hardly reach at -25°F winters (but often enough), while at gradients on summer days at speed this ECU will try to lower the coolant as close as possible to 88°C, which again is hardly will ever reach.
However, this attempt achieves two goals: 1. Hot coolant result in hot oil and this means less friction aka best efficiency. 2. Limited coolant temps mean limited oil temps again, and cool colant will limited preiginition occurrences. That's again better efficiency.
This all is simplified. There's much more like 3 or 4 cooling circuits. My GTI reaches temp quickly and it rarely exceeds 110°C (230°) oil temp at 250 km/h (155mph) speeds. Its maximum: 114°C (237°F) on a real hot day an this aforementioned speed. It works.
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Which are VW 504, 507 or Volkswagen Auto Group- VAG approvals, yep.
It will. I have no problem pushing gauge on Tiguan to 3/4 when pushed bit harder up the Pikes Peak. I actually have to leave a car on for 10-15min.
UPDATE; So just got back from a short trip towing the trailer. This time I hooked up my OBD2 scanner and compared the coolant and oil readings to those in the cluster. No hills, just flat roads but I was able to confirm that the cluster is way off. Coolant didn't fluctuate much and stayed within 195-210F. The oil temps were the real eye opener....the cluster read from 10-23 degrees higher than shown on the scanner. At one point the cluster read 245F and the scanner showed 222. So I might not have as big of an oil temp problem as I thought. Have a trip in a few weeks that will take me through WV so I'll be able compare the temps when climbing the hills. Thanks everyone.
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Great!
Fine so far and very interesting. Seems you should keep running C30 (M1 ESP) with most confidence.
On my GTI w/ EA888 3G (basically same engine as base model Macan) I perceived rougly 2°C or 3°C divergence so far, oil temp of course. Coolant, as is well known, is WAY off.
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I really wonder if the 2 different oil readings might be taken from 2 different places. Have you tried reading both after cooling down overnight?
AFAIK, there is only one oil temp sensor. But there are two coolant temp sensors, another at the exit from the radiator which is always much lower than the one on the block (as it should be).
Latest update...climbing long incline while towing my ~6000lb travel trailer on route 68 in WV, oil temp in cluster reached a high of 264F, but scan toll read 230F. Incidentally, coolant temp according to the scan tool stayed within 5 degrees of 200F. So looks like temps are not actually as bad as I thought.
If you did want to switch I’d probably run the ESP X3 C40.
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