I like Walmart's Everstart batteries.
Best battery, opinons and experiences, please
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Optima red top all the way here. I have lots of redtops and haven't had one die yet. Some are as old as 10 yrs and several are 8yrs old and have been used in equipment and off road trucks. These aren't daily drivers mind you but they do see rough use and sit outside part of the year. I have heard the optimas don't like to be run completly dead dead and if you do bring them back up with a slow charge to start with. I should probably head off to the battery store now that I have said how great my 10yrs old bats are they'll all die.
ALL non-deep-cycle lead acid batteries hate a deep discharge. No specific fault of the Optima. But like I said above, I am very happy with my $30-range Everstart.
My oem VW Moll battery in my Passat lasted for 48 months until it died just last Monday.
I went for a 700CCA Interstate MTP-91($85 out the door)...the starter cranks so strong and fast it now sounds like from a diesel.
p.s. Check out this link. Its an A-Z compilation/info of all battery brands worldwide:
Battery Manufacturers/Brand List & Links
You may be surprised to know that your loyal battery brand is actually made by...several manufacturers/suppliers.
[ January 05, 2005, 04:41 AM: Message edited by: vwoom ]
I went for a 700CCA Interstate MTP-91($85 out the door)...the starter cranks so strong and fast it now sounds like from a diesel.
p.s. Check out this link. Its an A-Z compilation/info of all battery brands worldwide:
Battery Manufacturers/Brand List & Links
You may be surprised to know that your loyal battery brand is actually made by...several manufacturers/suppliers.
[ January 05, 2005, 04:41 AM: Message edited by: vwoom ]
One of the advantages of the optimas (and other solid designed batteries) is you can mount them in any position. In the cases of some vehicles (especially performance oriented/modified ones) this means you can sometimes get unique fitment which allows for much easier access to particular engine components.
Optima's also tend to be much smaller for the same CA and CCA. I upgraded from a motorcraft to a redtop (75/35) which increased my CCA by almost 220 amps, and the battery was almost 2.5 inches shallower...allowing for excellent clearance in front of the TB/intake area.
You can see the unused battery tray space from the old motorcraft battery. The optima was also 5 lbs lighter...for those who care
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Optima's also tend to be much smaller for the same CA and CCA. I upgraded from a motorcraft to a redtop (75/35) which increased my CCA by almost 220 amps, and the battery was almost 2.5 inches shallower...allowing for excellent clearance in front of the TB/intake area.
You can see the unused battery tray space from the old motorcraft battery. The optima was also 5 lbs lighter...for those who care
I used to buy everstart batteries from walmart when they were made by johnson controls. I have not bought one since walmart switched to exide as there battery supplier.
I just received an e-mail from Johnson Controls - they said that the "southern" Walmarts still source their batteries from JC.
Also, to answer my question, JC said that their batteries you buy from Autozone, etc. are all the same quality compared to their Interstate version.
Also, to answer my question, JC said that their batteries you buy from Autozone, etc. are all the same quality compared to their Interstate version.
I was in an Autozone yeaterday checking for some GC 0w30 and happen so see the Duralast batteries on display. One Grp 48(size for my Passat)I saw looks and is speced exactly like the MTP-91 I just installed, down to the tapering vent tube design(sans the red top cover). It is also $20 cheaper and was wondering if I did the right decision.
When you mentioned "same quality" of other JC batteries compared to Interstate, do you mean above or below qualitywise to the latter? Different cell plates?
Sounds like you need to check out your Battery, alternator and or started/solinoid.
I would check battery voltage and verify it's close to 12.6 after sitting for a few hours.
You might want to clean terminals and check alternator output. with engine running should be close to 14.0 volts.
It is always best to start with the battery/terminals and rule them out then make sure alternator is charging if batt is good but low on charge.
Then if you still have problems start looking at starter/ batt cables.
I hope you red top is going to lastfor longer than 4 yrs because I have one and 2 other family members as well.
Good luck
I would check battery voltage and verify it's close to 12.6 after sitting for a few hours.
You might want to clean terminals and check alternator output. with engine running should be close to 14.0 volts.
It is always best to start with the battery/terminals and rule them out then make sure alternator is charging if batt is good but low on charge.
Then if you still have problems start looking at starter/ batt cables.
I hope you red top is going to lastfor longer than 4 yrs because I have one and 2 other family members as well.
Good luck
The latest CR rates the group 65 "Duralast 65-DL" as a BEST BUY .... and group 75 "Everstart Maxx-75N" in the North and "Nascar xlt n75s" in the South.
Lots of batteries listed in the current issue.
P.B.
Lots of batteries listed in the current issue.
P.B.
I've had my Optima Redtop since June of 2002 so it's a bit over 4 years now. I've noticed that my morning starts are taking longer and most recently turning the key on occasion I hear nothing...not even clicking. This happened to me the other day when I went to Straus Auto. When I returned to my Jeep to start the engine, I turned the key all the way and NOTHING....no sound at all. Waited a few seconds and it finally started after a few seconds of crank time. The clock also reset to 12:00 which I thought was weird. I guess that's telling me that the battery is almost dead? I don't understand because it drives fine and the next day it started even though it took a few seconds. One other thing, when I installed new speakers in my Jeep yesterday I had left the battery connected and had my door open the entire time which left the dome light on. It took me 4 hours for the install. When I tried starting the engine all I heard was clicking. Is this the sign of a battery on it's way out or is the alternator in question as well (alt is original, 112K miles).
I don't think it's my starter because I was jumped the other day and it started right up. This morning it started up after a couple of seconds. When started and at idle my battery indicator reads just below the 14v mark. I'm thinking it's the battery.
I have a 6 year old autozone duralast battery still running in a 1996 sunfire.
My walmart everstart battery only last 2.5 years in my 1992 mits mirage that I just replaced last month.
however, I have a sears battery charger. I have been charging the batteries every two years. But the 2.5 everstart battery had a bad cell in it and it wouldn't hold a charge.
My walmart everstart battery only last 2.5 years in my 1992 mits mirage that I just replaced last month.
however, I have a sears battery charger. I have been charging the batteries every two years. But the 2.5 everstart battery had a bad cell in it and it wouldn't hold a charge.
I was looking into buying this battery from Sears for my 1998 Jeep Grand Cj=herokee Laredo 4.0. What do you think? Any opinions? Is the Diehard Gold better?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ical=AUTO&subcat=Batteries&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ical=AUTO&subcat=Batteries&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
Update: I parked my jeep in the driveway, turned the engine off. Went to go find my multimeter. Returned back to the Jeep 5 minutes later, opened the hood and connected the multimeter leads to the battery. As I went to start the Jeep, NOTHING! No noise (not even clicking) while holding the key all the way until 2 seconds later when the engine started to crank and finally started after a few seconds but then wanted to stall and eventually just did. Also, the clock on the stereo reset back to 12:00. What the H#ll? Finally got the Jeep to hold idle after placing the shifter in Nuetral then back to Park. Does this indicate anything to you about shifting to Nuetral? Anyway my battery voltage read 14.2v on my multimeter while engine running at idle. With engine off the voltage read 12.7. I started the jeep up again without a problem....started right up.
So here's my Q's:
1. Would you say that my battery and altenator are ok by my voltage readings at idle and with engine off?
2. What's your take on the radio clock resetting to 12:00?
3. I mentioned that when i shifted to Nuetral the engine finally held idle. What does that indicate?
4. I'm thinking the problem is either my starter or the Crank Position Sensor?
So here's my Q's:
1. Would you say that my battery and altenator are ok by my voltage readings at idle and with engine off?
2. What's your take on the radio clock resetting to 12:00?
3. I mentioned that when i shifted to Nuetral the engine finally held idle. What does that indicate?
4. I'm thinking the problem is either my starter or the Crank Position Sensor?
I had problems with my clock resetting on starts and this problem was cured by tightening the (side type)terminals on the battery.
A discharged battery will not accept a full charge from an alternator because of the high internal resistance on the plates from the SO4 crystals. Best way to attack this problem is to put the battery on a constant 1-2A charger which will slowly bring the battery up to full charge. You are “thinking” that the battery is charging while running the engine but that is not the case as a discharged battery will not accept the high current rate produced by the alternator. This in effect starts the cycle where the battery is semi-charger causing the SO4 crystals to harden even further creating more internal resistance which will eventually render the battery useless.
Hence the reason why you are resetting your clock, this is either because the battery is not properly charged so it cannot supply the required current or the high internal resistance which will act like a bottle neck further not supplying the required current.
I like the 14.2V when idling, however I do not like the 12.7V right after shut down. After shut down the voltage should be in the 13V range for a couple of hours before settling in the 12V range implying that there is no major draw on the battery.
Think of the whole charging situation as pouring hot water into a sink full of dishes with cold water in it. When the hot water is poured in at a high rate (alternator) the water will appear to be hot near where the water is entering the sink, (plates on a battery) yet on the outside edges it will appear to be cold. Hence the reason why if you pour water at a slow rate (slow charging) everything will have ample time to mix and be at equilibrium, rather than pouring the water at a high rate ( high charging current) which will make it look like the sink is full of hot water, when in reality the fat edges still have cold water.
Hence the reason why you are resetting your clock, this is either because the battery is not properly charged so it cannot supply the required current or the high internal resistance which will act like a bottle neck further not supplying the required current.
I like the 14.2V when idling, however I do not like the 12.7V right after shut down. After shut down the voltage should be in the 13V range for a couple of hours before settling in the 12V range implying that there is no major draw on the battery.
Think of the whole charging situation as pouring hot water into a sink full of dishes with cold water in it. When the hot water is poured in at a high rate (alternator) the water will appear to be hot near where the water is entering the sink, (plates on a battery) yet on the outside edges it will appear to be cold. Hence the reason why if you pour water at a slow rate (slow charging) everything will have ample time to mix and be at equilibrium, rather than pouring the water at a high rate ( high charging current) which will make it look like the sink is full of hot water, when in reality the fat edges still have cold water.
Great info, thanks. Do you think it would be ok to 'slowly' charge the battery (Optima Redtop) even though it's 'partially' charged as you stated? Is this something any mechanic shop would have or would it be better to buy something like this(see link)?
http://www.autobarn.net/vector-1086bbd.html
Charge away. Red top should accept a slow charge as at least as good as any other battery. Red top isn't a deep cycle battery though and running it way down and recharging isn't what it's made for; use a yellow top deep cycle or blue top for that.
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