Best AR-15 Lube?

[billt460]

Originally Posted By: Bill T
I've been lubricating all of my firearms with Mobil 1 20W-50 for quite some time now with very good results. Lately I've been thinking if there was something better for my AR-15's? I don't use CLP of any kind on any firearm. I've found any product that does a lot of things at once, (Cleans, Lubricates, Protects), usually does none of them that well. There have been a lot of articles written lately about how the AR-15 / M-16 platform of rifles should be run "dripping" with lube. I tend to agree. I'm thinking of switching to a heavier weight oil like straight 60W or higher for this purpose. I live in Phoenix, Arizona and we don't get a lot of cold days, but do get a lot of very hot ones! What do you guys lube your AR-15's with in very warm climates? Bill T.


I live in Phoenix as well, and I lube with much the same thing. I would just keep doing what your doing. I have started using Weaponshield Lithium Grease and Weaponshield Oil in place of the similar Mobil 1 products lately. I've found they tend to stay put longer. Especially on direct impingement AR's. But in the end, if you keep them wet with either one, you'll never have a problem because of either one.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: Tempest
And as stated above, Olympic arms is a distributor. out of business


Fixed it for you. Olympic Arms FAILED this year and is out of business.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: Forest
You should never have to lube your AR-15 dripping wet. If you do there is something (gas key...etc..) wrong mechanally. Thin layer will do the job.


The 1980's called. They want their old lube recommendation back. It has been found after 15 years of war in a desert environment, that the AR15 platform works best dripping wet. You literally cannot over lube these things. But its quite common, and very easy, to under lubricate. A full 75% of shooters that show up at an AR15 class have under lubricated rifles. Plus, there really is no downside to a lot of lube other than more goo that you have to clean up after firing. A defensive gun should be cleaned after firing anyways. The most common complaint is that a wet gun attracts dust. Who cares? If its wet with lube, it will work. I'd rather have a gun that works, than a dry gun that chokes.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: GMBoy
I use REMLUBE on my Bushmaster AR15 and I don't put so much on that the gun is dripping. I am sure there are better lubes, but I have a full bottle to use up first before I go trying something else. But, for the record, I've used REMLUBE for about 5 years with great results on all my rifles/shotguns/handguns. I do not think I'd be using motor oil on my firearms, though.


I've never heard of REMLUBE? Is it an older product? Currently, they make REMOIL and REM DRILUBE. Dry lube should not be found anywhere near an AR15. And REMOIL is considered the worst lube you can buy for an AR15. I'd buy a better lube.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: Bill T
I've been lubricating all of my firearms with Mobil 1 20W-50 for quite some time now with very good results. Lately I've been thinking if there was something better for my AR-15's? I don't use CLP of any kind on any firearm. I've found any product that does a lot of things at once, (Cleans, Lubricates, Protects), usually does none of them that well. There have been a lot of articles written lately about how the AR-15 / M-16 platform of rifles should be run "dripping" with lube. I tend to agree. I'm thinking of switching to a heavier weight oil like straight 60W or higher for this purpose. I live in Phoenix, Arizona and we don't get a lot of cold days, but do get a lot of very hot ones! What do you guys lube your AR-15's with in very warm climates? Bill T.


Mobil 1 works fine. Its cheap. The smell bothers me, so I dont use it.

I have tested, own, and use, all the below lubes, and can highly recommend any of them for use on an AR15 in a hot environment.

Weaponshield
Breakfree LP (not CLP)
Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil (not the regular gun oil)
Slip 2000 EWL
Slip 2000 EWL 30
G96 synthetic gun oil CLP
FP-10
M-Pro 7 gun oil
Hoppe's Elite Gun Oil

 

[HerrStig]

"LSA" a grease mislabeled as an "oil" was the lube that finally made the M 16 reliable in the jungle.

 

[Ws6]

Threads like this prove that the Stoner series rifles will run with [censored] near anything that resembles a lube. Pick the one that you find allows you to clean the weapon the easiest. That is the biggest difference I have found among all of them.

 

[SouthEndCrusher]

I've used just about everything ever made. Just about everything will work. Your best bet is to find something you like and use it often.

I mostly use Weapon Shield, but also like FP-10, ALG Go Juice, Lucas Extreme Gun Oil, Ballistol, and Break Free CLP, the Wilson Combat Lubricants, Slip 2000.) But like I said, I've used just about every popular product and they all worked.

(Products I disliked were EEZOX, Amsoil Gun Oil, MPro-7 LPX Oil.) They did work, but I didn't care for the odors of the EEZOX and the Amsoil Gun Oil. The LPX separated, and I found that annoying.

Motor Oil works well too. 0W20 is what I'd use.

 

[MarcS]

I use a lightweight machine grease. Stays put, costs less than gun lubes.

 

[JHZR2]

I use ballistol on everything to clean and generally absorb oil into the parkerization. Contact points/surfaces get slip 2000 ewl.

 

[bsmithwins]

I help out at range orientation for a match we run monthly. Most of the shooters run AR15s.

The most frequent stoppage is short stroking. This has almost always (I can think of one exception) been fixed by applying more lube.

I have yet to see an AR that was too lubricated to run. Exact type of lube doesn't seem to matter.

BSW

 

[HouseTiger]

Originally Posted By: xtell
I've been using Breakfree CLP on my M1A Springfield for years and it has worked well for me. I do use some Lubriplate on the hammer trough and safety notch, but those are the only two places that the gun gets any grease.



Lubriplate is the best stuff for that platform. As per basic training (back after the earth cooled) for the M14, you might want to add the following areas to grease:

the bolt cam roller and its recess in the operating rod,

the op rod channel on the receiver and the op rod along where it contacts the guide (under the stock)

back side of the forward locking lug recesses in the receiver.

 

[HouseTiger]

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
"LSA" a grease mislabeled as an "oil" was the lube that finally made the M 16 reliable in the jungle.


And it's neither a grease nor an oil, per se - it's what the military terms 'semi-fluid' - as in it'll (kinda-sorta) coagulate when left standing. It was originally spec'd for the M60 GPMG, hence the 'LSA' - Lubricant, Semi-fluid, automatic weapons.

You're correct on it making the M16 and M16A1 run in SEA. My youngest was in the sand trap and later in Afghanistan from 06-09, and they were (at least his unit), once again, using LSA instead of CLP. Said his M4 ran, and ran, and ran . . . Stuff is still available in quart cans that'll last a few lifetimes.

 

[bsmithwins]

Originally Posted By: HouseTiger
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
"LSA" a grease mislabeled as an "oil" was the lube that finally made the M 16 reliable in the jungle.


And it's neither a grease nor an oil, per se - it's what the military terms 'semi-fluid' - as in it'll (kinda-sorta) coagulate when left standing. It was originally spec'd for the M60 GPMG, hence the 'LSA' - Lubricant, Semi-fluid, automatic weapons.

You're correct on it making the M16 and M16A1 run in SEA. My youngest was in the sand trap and later in Afghanistan from 06-09, and they were (at least his unit), once again, using LSA instead of CLP. Said his M4 ran, and ran, and ran . . . Stuff is still available in quart cans that'll last a few lifetimes.


I've used multiple types of gun lubes, with generally pretty good results, but I'm using and happy with LSA. It's creepy enough to get into assembled parts, lasts a reasonable amount of time on stored weapons, I haven't had any rust problems (living in the PNW area), and when bought by the quart, it's cheap.

BSW

 

[Cujet]

I also use M1, but I use the 5W-40 TDT that I so often have "in stock". Works perfectly in the AR, and wonderfully on my stainless 1911.

 

[Silverado12]

I use Break Free CLP in everything. I also use Hoppes Powder Solvent. When I was in the sheriff's academy, I learned that some oil (penetrating oil) can cause a primer misfire. There was a state trooper who had to use his weapon and all six rounds had dents in them where the primers failed. He had used WD-40 to clean his weapon. This happened a long time ago as I was in the academy almost 30 years ago, but that story stuck in my mind.

 

[bsmithwins]

Originally Posted By: Silverado12
I use Break Free CLP in everything. I also use Hoppes Powder Solvent. When I was in the sheriff's academy, I learned that some oil (penetrating oil) can cause a primer misfire. There was a state trooper who had to use his weapon and all six rounds had dents in them where the primers failed. He had used WD-40 to clean his weapon. This happened a long time ago as I was in the academy almost 30 years ago, but that story stuck in my mind.


Might have been the guy that asked if he should swap out the cartridges in his revolver because the nickle plated brass had corroded.

When I carried for work the chambered round got cycled out weekly, the rounds in the magazine every quarter. I then shot those rounds for practice.

BSW

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: SouthEndCrusher
They did work, but I didn't care for the odors of ... the Amsoil Gun Oil.


I have been using Amsoil gun oil in my 5.56mm, 6.8mm and 10mm AR's since it came out (last year or so). You are correct, it works great. Stays wet and cleans well. But the part of your comment I don't get is the smell(?) It has very low odor. Sort of a plastic candy odor is all I detect. What does it smell like to you?