Before the plunge to Dino!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: yaris0128
Dont be dancing around with the idea of some wonder dino!! Just accept that synthetic is better and move on like the rest of us.

crackmeup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Lets see what my latest UOA to Terry reveals... Let's talk dino though in the meantime!
grin2.gif





I choose MOBIL 1 for my Iron supplement!

Thats funny..
lol.gif
 
Seeing on how this got into quite the discussion(and laugh off as well).

I wanted to see in Hyundai really had anything to say about extremely cold weather and oil.

They didn't.
shocked2.gif


More importantly I read what I most likely figured, to use any conforming SM/GF4 5w20 or 5w30 if the former is unavailable with SL being acceptable as well if needed. The exception is their turbo 2.0l which added 5w40 to the list but I have never seen a non-synthetic 5w40 so I guess they may be implying to use synthetic.

The turbo OCI's needed to be no more than 4800/6m or 3000/3m for severe service. Regular engines seem to be 7500/1yr or 3750/6m for severe. They recommend Quaker State too no less.

So use dino or use synthetic, if seems to them in cold it matters little. Since as was stated PP is cheap that would be what I'd do. Maybe try AFE 0w20 just for kicks(if I could find any
mad.gif
)

Edit: They also push 5w20/30 for fuel economy reasons but add just about all other weights to the chart on some engines(mainly V6's).
 
Hyundai is aware of the problem with dino oil in the winter and their solution is a thinner oil or different filter. I have seen an official communication from Hyundai Canada on the wall at my local dealership. I'm good friends with the parts guy now and he showed me.

It doesn't cause any harm but it is annoying...
 
Maybe because of the cold temp's up here in the winter? I will see if my friend Jim will give me a copy of the memo to post here for all to see.

It's not a TSB, it's a memo that "Some" 2.7's may be affected with cold oil flow if not using 5w20 (as spec'ed) with a Hyundai filter but that it won't cause damage just noise that will clear up within 15 minutes at the most.

They do have a TSB for the oil filter on the 2.7's needing to be OEM if they cause low oil pressure symptoms.
 
Quaker State is the recommended brand of oil as per the manual and I have heard that rumor of Q.S. being factory fill for N.A. models.
 
There was a TSB on the use of aftermarket oil filters causing knocking on cold starts because the wrong anti-drainback valve.
 
Throw some Rotella T6 in it and be done. It's not much more expensive than PYB or QS and it'll almost certainly get the job done.
 
Stevie. . .how much are ya paying for the Hyundai filters up there? Here in PA I've been buying the Fram CH9999 for my Hyundai Santa Fe (3.3L) for $6.44 and it's EXACTLY the same as the OEM filter (even made in Korea). . .what model Hyundai and engine do you have? If you could use the Fram filters that would save a few bucks too. . .




Originally Posted By: StevieC
Walmart has a pretty dismal selection up here compared to the U.S. Walmarts and is similarly priced to Canadian Tire and Part-Source for most oils with the exception of a few. They also don't carry anywhere near the selection of weights like in the U.S. and there certainly is never any coupons for oil companies up here like in the U.S. to make it like an insane $1/Quart.

M1 is not cheap up here like in the U.S. I can buy Amsoil for almost the same price unless M1 is on sale.

Walmart only carries, Pennzoil, Q.S. Some Valvoline, Some Castrol & Supertech.

They also only carrie Fram orange can filters with the exception of some T.G. models.
 
I bought a case of 48 when I bought the truck thinking it was going to be the only filter I would use and I paid something like $4 each at the time from the dealer as he gave me a good deal because I was buying the truck.

I then switched to Amsoil EAO filters because I feel these are better (Hyundai ones are excellent though) and worth the extra dollar and I run them extra long to get my money back out of them.

The Hyundai's I still have left 25 or so fit my moms Kia Spectra so she is using them mainly.

I just used one for this fill because I ran out of EAO's.

As for Fram the one that fits my 2.7 causes knocking as I tried to use one when I first bought the truck and wanted to change out the factory fill early and I knew that second fill wouldn't be in there long because I was worried about break-in wear and so I didn't want to use a Hyundai one for such a short interval. Well I ended-up doing so because the knocking was not nice and I worried about damage so I changed it out in 100 km's. (Before I was a BITOGER) I
 
I see that the 2.7L uses a spin-on type filter (according to Amsoil's website). My 3.3L uses a cartridge type filter. It looks like Fram must source the filter from the same supplier as OEM because I've put 'em side by side and they're identical.

For what it's worth, I just switched my Santa Fe over to QS Ultimate Durability 5w-20 and the Fram filter and plan on doing 6000 mile OCIs. The QS here in the U.S. can be had for $18.50 a jug at Wal Mart and even less with rebates / sales etc.--I consider it a good bargain for syn oil. This combination of oil and filter has cured my startup noise and doesn't break the bank.
 
The 3.3 is very easy on oil from what I have seen / read. The 2.7 without the EGR valve is very hard on oil and I can get 6K Miles (10K KM's) usually out of any off the shelf synthetic at the most with my "all highway" driving.

frown.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom