Battery, Alternator, or Starter?
- Thread starter jayjr1105
- Start date
Leaning back towards starter now. The 700 milliamp draw I was detecting earlier might have been from the door being open and it still has an incandescent bulb in the door. Battery tested over 800 CCA with a heaterbox style tester holding the button for 10-12 seconds. Car running with stereo, heated seats, and headlights on voltage still measures 14.2v. After testing the battery I tried to start it and got absolutely nothing. No clicks or revs. Waited 10 seconds and tried again, nothing. Waited 10 more seconds and it started right up without hesitation. Starter right??
Grab a test light to ensure the starter is getting a signal. After that’s verified, and you’re sure battery is sufficient, yes, sounds like the starter is going out. If the signal is there, you can either keep cycling the key till it does work and start, or tap it with a hammer if accessible and it’ll likely crank.
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Just went on a 30 min drive to and from to get my daughter. Got home, turned off the car and I'm measuring 900mA draw again with my clamp. All doors closed and no interior lights or anything on. I'm going to give it 10-15 min to make sure it's not computer related or anything. I'll check in after that.
Agree and to me this sounds like a connection issue or the starter solenoid.
Sulfated battery reads correct voltage but has low amperage. A trip to Autozone for load check and alt output test first...
Certainly possible. Maybe I should not have assumed that the OP had performed a battery test before posting on here.
Give the vehicle at least 15 min for the computer to shut down before testing for a parasitic draw.
Ok guys, I tested again for sanity sake and the van does seem to draw 700-900mA after it's shut off for about 5 minutes. After that it goes to a very normal 50mA.
For those suggesting a load test... I did, read a few posts of mine back. Measured over 800CCA. Also, when the 900mA draw stops after 5 minutes, the battery voltage climbs to nearly 12.8v I am 100% sure about the battery, alternator, and parasitic draw not being the issue. Also checked and no AC voltage when running so diodes are good in the alternator.
I agree with the starter connection/solenoid being the issue. Can the solenoid be replaced by the end user without any special tools?
For those suggesting a load test... I did, read a few posts of mine back. Measured over 800CCA. Also, when the 900mA draw stops after 5 minutes, the battery voltage climbs to nearly 12.8v I am 100% sure about the battery, alternator, and parasitic draw not being the issue. Also checked and no AC voltage when running so diodes are good in the alternator.
I agree with the starter connection/solenoid being the issue. Can the solenoid be replaced by the end user without any special tools?
First thing I would do is examine all the cables and their connections... clean the clamps and battery terminals, look for corroded or damaged cables, torque the cable connections, etc.
Battery terminals are clean, I checked the starter and solenoid cable and they are under a protective boot and look very clean once removed. The spade connector seemed tight enough and so was the main starter cable bolt. Anything else like a relay and sorts that I need to check before I pick up a starter tomorrow?
As someone else suggested, put a test light or meter on the small wire at the starter and have someone turn the key. That will show that all the relays etc in the car are working. Another starter test is to jump the small wire terminal to battery + which should make it unconditionally turn (so be sure the key is off and transmission is not in gear).
The battery terminals are such a common problem and so important to this I'd do more than just look at them-- disconnect both, clean the contact surfaces and reattach securely.
The battery terminals are such a common problem and so important to this I'd do more than just look at them-- disconnect both, clean the contact surfaces and reattach securely.
Could be the transmission safety lockout?
Beyond the battery, all these safeties and relays are confirmed working (at least at the time) by checking that the starter is getting a signal to crank. If you get the signal, at least at that time the neutral safety switch is ok / shift lever selection is accurate / relay(s) are working etc.
Its likely either the solenoid, or the relay which drives it. Solenoid makes a bigger click, relay makes a really really light click, as heard from inside the vehicle. You can jumper the relay terminals and see if that bumps the starter, or maybe swap the relay with another if its the same size.
battery resting at 12.4 is fine. Battery coming down from 14 to 12.6 at turnoff is fine, the electronics stay awake for a while.
m
battery resting at 12.4 is fine. Battery coming down from 14 to 12.6 at turnoff is fine, the electronics stay awake for a while.
m
I'm off today and would like to figure it out while I can work on it. I assume the relay is cheap and replaceable in 2 min?
Found the location. Pulled the relay and it rattles a little. Should they do that? In the process of testing the relay as we speak.
Found the location. Pulled the relay and it rattles a little. Should they do that? In the process of testing the relay as we speak.
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