Auto-RX application - '94 4L60E ~140k.

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So here's the plan...

My girlfriend's '94 Caprice 9C1 has approximately 140k on it. Transmission has recently started slipping in first, giving a harsh shift to second, slipping at 35-45 cruise speeds, and running hot. (!)

I know the reputation of the 4l60E - I've got three of them in the family. As a matter of fact, I just had to go to a "built" tranny in my '95 SS due to some major failures.

I'll start by saying that I'm highly skeptical - in my opinion there's nothing that a chemical additive can do to repair the symptoms of this transmission. This is not the fault of ARX, I simply don't think that it can repair failing mechanical parts.
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I'm planning on doing the Auto-RX treatment to the LT1's in my "fleet" and figured I'd give it a shot in the failing transmission as a last ditch effort sort of thing. If this cures the issue, I'll be the single biggest advertisement for ARX that's ever been seen on this board or others.
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So the intent is to use this thread as a log - again it bears repeating that I am NOT expressing a lack of faith in ARX to do what it's designed to do. I'm planning on running it in three seperate LT1's in the near future and will be glad to share my findings. I anticipate crisper throttle response and a whole ton of sludge from at least two of the cars considering their history as fleet vehicles. I wanted to use this thread as a log and documentation in the event that ARX actually does perform a miracle and bandaid this failing transmission for another 10k miles or so, until the money is put aside for another heavy-duty build. After spending $1800-ish out the door for a built trans and high-stall 9.5" converter in my '95, the cash isn't there right now for another HD build for the '94, which would recieve a junkyard tranny until money is there for something long term.

That my story, now to apply the ARX!
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Auto-RX is not designed as a fix. It is designed to maintain and prevent the failure. Once you are aleady showing signs of iminent failure, there are only a few bandaid treatments that may keep you on the road a bit longer.
 
quote:

Originally posted by medic:
Auto-RX is not designed as a fix. It is designed to maintain and prevent the failure. Once you are aleady showing signs of iminent failure, there are only a few bandaid treatments that may keep you on the road a bit longer.

That about sums up my thinking.

I'll run the other half-bottle through the junkyard tranny to keep it moving as long as possible.
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Status @ 500 miles:

Car seems to have gone through "phases" of shifting correctly and slipping over the first 450 miles of treatment. As of right now, the transmission shifts as clean and smooth as it did before the problems arose. Maybe a bit more crisp, but I could very well be imagining things.
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At the beginning of treatment (within first 100 miles) temperatures spiked up to 240*F on more than one brief occasion, and have steadily been decreasing since then. The fluid temp seems to level out ~212*F under normal city driving in temperatures between 69*F and 90*F - this has held true over the last 50 miles or so. The most comforting thing is that the temp no longer "spikes" as high as it did before - the highest observed spikes over the last 50 miles have been ~220*F. I anticipate much better temp control once new fluid gets in there. I may or may not replace the cooler (this car comes with a dual radiator/external cooler setup from the factory.) depending on how the fluid coming out of it looks and the temps we reach after the first flush.

Possible explanation, through researching a large amount of 4l60E troubles, is that something clogged the valve body and prevented proper fluid pressures, causing slipping and of course higher temps along with the inefficiently applied clutches/bands. A clogged cooler is something I've also considered, but I think that the cooler is far enough "upline" that pressures within the valvebody etc would have remained high enough to keep the car shifting almost normally. Temperatures in the case of a cooler clog also should not have "spiked" the way they were, but remained consistantly hot. Is my thinking in line with commonly accepted wisdom on this?

Next up: I'll be doing a thorough flush tomorrow afternoon, weather permitting, and will run the other half bottle of ARX through for 1,000 miles before flushing again and changing the filter.

I'm not sure we're quite out of the woods yet, as the 4l60E is quite the time bomb.. But, the goal of getting the car to shift correctly with consistancy has been achieved for $20, rather than a $400 junkyard "bandaid" - even if it only gives us another 10k, that's enough time to get the cash together for a heavier build tranny.

...I'm tempted to use the word "miracle" at this point, but don't quite want to jinx anything yet.
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It's likely the small VB filters (AFL/Shift solenoids) that are located in the seperator plate are clogged up. These are notorious for clogging up and causing low line pressure in early years. GM evenutally went to a less restrictive material.

It's likely the ARX may have been able to reduce this debris a bit.

One of the filters is responsible for the feed oil to the PC (pressure control) solenoid, that then controls how much pressure rises and falls to changes in throttle. This is where the slips and likely high fluid temps are being caused.

The filters are cheap, but require the VB to be removed (which for the inexperienced is not recommended). But since you have a few in the family, it may be time to learn! No special tools required.

Good luck with the ARX experiment.

DH
 
Flushed out twelve qts this afternoon.

The stuff that came out of that transmission was dark to the point of being unrecognizable visually. If I hadn't been able to smell it (all over me, since I accidentally disconnected the return line first.. oops!
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)I wouldn't have even known it was tranny fluid.

Flushed two qts, added two, repeating for twelve full qts. removed and added... I did not add the other 6oz of ARX yet - I will change plans a bit and run a straight fill of cheap fluid for a couple hundred miles, re-flush, add the 6oz ARX, and take it the full 1500 miles this time.

I had thought to drop the valve body and check those screens out, but hesitate due to lack of facilities. I have a paved driveway, but it is that; just a driveway. I have this fear that one good gust of wind will get so much crap blown up into the tranny that it will do more harm than good. :/

Should have an accurate scope of the temperatures it runs within the next couple days. My old lady's got the car out grocery shopping now - by the time she's through and there's time to go for a ride the outside temperature will be too cool to get a good idea of how well the temperatures stabilize under a nice hot NE summer.
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Did another flush on this trans Saturday. Shift quality has improved yet again, and the fluid came out with a nice clean smell (if not a slightly dirty appearance) after ~500 miles. Immediately after the flush, car was taken on a 200mi round trip on which the temps did not exceed 197, and stayed around 193 for the majority of the ride.

We'll let this ride with another 6oz (second dose) of ARX, then I will do a full flush and filter change and button it up for good after 1500 miles. I'll add a drain plug to the pan as well so that I can do a quick 2-4qt fluid "change" with every other oil change (going 3-4k on cheap 10w30 dino with this engine.) as periodic maintenance. Barring any catastrophic failures, I'd call this tranny "resurrected." Woo.
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cool post! iT IS LIKE jOHN bROWNING SAYS, HE feels that ARX does a better job at cleaning up a auto tranny than at cleaning up your engine !

I myself just got through treating the tranny of 2 vehichles ...no problems ...one I was " forced" to run a quart of 20w motor oil in it when I blew a tranny line off in the middle of nowhere..so I ARXed it just to clen'er out ...it is fine ...
and the oter has a JUNKYARD tranny of unknown orgin and maintainance practice in it ...so after 3 very quick changes ( 2 months or less ) I ARXed it ...didn't pull much extra out ...but dirty fluid wasn't really coming out when I did the quick changes either...just some magnetic debris on the magnet ..before the ARX and after it .
 
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