Applying Grease to the Ears of Disc Brake Pads?

[BigD1]

Originally Posted By: Gebo
Originally Posted By: BigD1
Straight from the Toyota pdf I linked earlier.

Remove, inspect, and clean pad clips
to ensure a smooth open/close
operation when the brake is applied,
and replace if damaged

DO NOT apply any grease or
lubricants to pad clips when reinstalling


I apologize for not seeing your PDF. I was reading so many responses that I just had "glazed" over. All I have are Toyota's. I am printing the PDF now. Thank you, sir. Well, this explains why I got the little packs of black grease with my Toyota pads. It also explains why the rear pads (never changed) have black grease here and there as well.


Not a problem.

Just pointing out that Toyota is recommending the pad clips be installed dry, and to me that means no grease under the clips, and no grease on the pad ears. If grease is used on the pad ears, the ears sit in the clips, so that would be, in my opinion, just like using grease on the clips.

If it were mine, I would install shiny new clips, and just take a wire brush, and clean the area where the pad clips sit in the caliper bracket. Then use some brake cleaner to de-grease the area.

 

[Gebo]

Originally Posted By: BigD1
Originally Posted By: Gebo
Originally Posted By: BigD1
Straight from the Toyota pdf I linked earlier.

Remove, inspect, and clean pad clips
to ensure a smooth open/close
operation when the brake is applied,
and replace if damaged

DO NOT apply any grease or
lubricants to pad clips when reinstalling


I apologize for not seeing your PDF. I was reading so many responses that I just had "glazed" over. All I have are Toyota's. I am printing the PDF now. Thank you, sir. Well, this explains why I got the little packs of black grease with my Toyota pads. It also explains why the rear pads (never changed) have black grease here and there as well.


Not a problem.

Just pointing out that Toyota is recommending the pad clips be installed dry, and to me that means no grease under the clips, and no grease on the pad ears. If grease is used on the pad ears, the ears sit in the clips, so that would be, in my opinion, just like using grease on the clips.



It looks like Amazon is the "only" place I can get M77. None of my local parts houses have it. Any better ideas? I am assuming Honda and Toyota are priced extremely high.

 

[raytseng]

your best move is to be sure to also buy a hardware kit with your brakes. if youre buying aftermarket it should onlu be about an extra $10

 

[Gebo]

Originally Posted By: raytseng
your best move is to be sure to also buy a hardware kit with your brakes. if youre buying aftermarket it should onlu be about an extra $10


Done. OEM was $25 for front and rear

 

[willbur]

It's confusing that Toyota recommends not using any lube on the pad ears.

My Toyota FSM has a diagram showing lube application TO pad ears and back of pads. Shows pins needing it, too. Perhaps OEM Toyota clips have a factory applied coating/treatment that does not require greasing on late model cars?

 

[Warstud]

Originally Posted By: cb_13
I do not lube anything other than the slide pins unless requested to do so by the customer.

Thats Scary.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
NO! it will capture sand and migrate. No Silicone grease either unless its kept by a boot.

If you REALLY want to lube it correctly, put some animal fat on there and bake it in to the iron/steel so it forms a monolayer with the metal. Petro grease wont do this. Only FAE,, Its Like seasoning an iron skillet.

The factory engineered material selection should allow free movement of the parts. I usually just wire brush them.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: willbur
It's confusing that Toyota recommends not using any lube on the pad ears.

My Toyota FSM has a diagram showing lube application TO pad ears and back of pads. Shows pins needing it, too. Perhaps OEM Toyota clips have a factory applied coating/treatment that does not require greasing on late model cars?

+1

 

[L_Sludger]

I apply grease to the brake pad friction surface

 

[Gebo]

Originally Posted By: willbur
It's confusing that Toyota recommends not using any lube on the pad ears.

My Toyota FSM has a diagram showing lube application TO pad ears and back of pads. Shows pins needing it, too. Perhaps OEM Toyota clips have a factory applied coating/treatment that does not require greasing on late model cars?



The date on the publication mentioned above is Sept 2012. Toyota Tech Tip T-TT-0132-11

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

The Toyota OEM shop manual calls for applying a "brake grease" to the pad tabs where they set in the support plate. I don't think it makes that much different as that grease in long gone in six months. A dry film lubricant like I have seen at ranch and home stores that is used for reciprocating grass mowers would probably work as good as anything. I haven't used it because I don't want a quart of if sitting around after I'm gone. I think it is graphite based.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I'm of the opinion that it doesn't really matter, at least for those of us that routinely clean our brakes anyway.


I think that's key to understanding the Toyota technical bulletin linked. There is the implicit assumption that Toyota abuttment clips are being used. The clips for Toyotas are smooth, shiny stainless steel. I know, I replaced mine mid-pad-service-life on my Corolla.

There's also an assumption the brakes are checked every 5K and cleaned often (maybe every 30K).

I'm reading between the lines here, but I'm assuming Toyota is avoiding the potential liability of over-lubrication and possible injury and death from lube migrating to the friction surface. Frankly a lot of DIY mechanics (and I assume some overzealous techs) overdo the pad ear lube thing. So for Toyota it's easier to assume 1.) frequent cleaning and service and 2.) replace clips often and 3.) If not, short pad life is better than people dying from over-lubrication.

Since I won't over-lubricate my pad ears, I will continue to lube them, Toyota Tech Note or not.

 

[bubbatime]

Ive seen pads rusted on where you have to beat them off with a hammer. Surely a grease or anti-seize would have prevented this, or made it less of an issue. I always use lube. On Honda vehicles, the rear caliper spins out as the pads wear. I put grease on the piston as well.

And I agree with the guy above me, the recommendation seems like a lawyer recommendation. They dont want some idiot putting 5 lbs of grease all over his pads and then getting in a crash. Because people are dumb. If you use a grease sparingly, it will never be a problem, and will likely prevent corrosion and rust where applied.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: Rand
I use pastelub. 40% solids no need to go hunt down a whale and use animal fat ARCO.
It helps prevent rust and stays in place pretty good. On the caliper pins I only use sil-glyde too many issues with permatex swelling the rubber on the guide pin.


I cannot say enough good things about Pastelub. I assume it is similar to Molykote 77. Molykote 77 is silicone based while the Pastelub is synthetic based. Both are high solids moly paste marketed as brake safe. The Pastelub is incredibly cheap compared to Molykote 77.

It seems impervious to water wash off. The pastelub will NOT absorb water or wash off in the "hand under sink" test. I apply a paper thin layer to any areas I do not want salt induced rust: hubs, rotor hats, under and on stainless brake clips (rust under clips bulge them, creating binding). I use it on weather exposed agriculture gate J hinges - lasts for years.

With some internet searching, I found the Swiss OEM mfg. of Pastelub if anyone is interested: http://www.igralub.us/igralub/index.php?id=557


https://goodson.com/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant

 

[willbur]

I've been using a black moly synthetic brake grease that appears to dry out and leave a moly layer.

The instruction sheet for a major brake manufacturer shows applying their supplied grease (moly?) to the ears and back of pads for my vehicle. Good enough for me. Don't want to overthink this.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: Rand
I use pastelub. 40% solids no need to go hunt down a whale and use animal fat ARCO.


Use your head!

The most conveniently available animal product is earwax. I've used that as a rubber-compatible lubricant before I got the chance to buy silicone grease in Japan.

Nothing available retail in Taiwan, AFAIK. Asians generally don't even produce much ear wax.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Well if you don't understand how FAE works with metallurgy go ahead and make fun.
I guess "beer can Joe" advice trumps professional advice.

Time to migrate to NORIA, this place is ... toothless.

 

[nthach]

I apply Molykote M77 or similar to my pad ears - some OEMs don't like that practice, I think it won't hurt. The silicone/PAO carrier on Molykote/Ceramlub will flash off and leave behind the "dry" components.

 

[Gebo]

Here is what I have found out concerning Toyota and Lexus. The have 3 different greases. The pink is for the slider pins. The black that comes with the pads are for the shims. The white is for the ears and brackets. The pink is around $20 for a tube. The black packets are around $7/pack and the white tube is around $45. I purchased the pink and it doesn't smell anything like 3M Silicone paste.
Local Toyota uses pink and black packs. Don't normally do ears. Nearest Lexus uses 3M silicone and black packs that come with pads. Ears stay dry. They use white grease when cars have brakes that click when changing direction.

 

[HangFire]

In other news, I looked up Brakes in my 05 Pilot FSM, and it has clear instructions to lube the pad ears.

So, not all manufacturers are the same in their recommendations.