@oil pan 4 I am intrigued, where/how did you source the oil filter housing?
Anyone add an oil filter to a predator 459cc
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I bought a remote filter kit years ago and never used it.
I don't appears need an oil cooler, I'm only seeing 150 to 160f the filter head, running it at about 3,000rpm as a wood chipper.
Using it as a pressure washer or boat motor where it sees 3,600-4,000rpm at wide open throttle, probably could use an oil cooler.
As a wood chipper I usually don't run it at 3,600rpm and it sees a fair bit of running at no load.
If you are going to buy a filter housing I recommend getting a filter head that takes 3/4 inch thread filters there's way more selection. You can get anyany rational physical sizes down to 5 micron.
10 micron was the smallest I could find for mine, which is a 13/16 thread.
Next mod, now that I know I don't need an oil cooler for this application I'll remove the oil temperature gauge and install a psid indicator. It moves the needle into the green at about 5psid and the red is about 20psi the filter bypasses at 22psid. When I change the oil if the filter isn't in the red I'll take the filter off, turn it upside down, drain the oil out and put it back on, since it's a hydraulic filter there's no anti drain back valve an the old oil will dump right out.
10 micron was the smallest I could find for mine, which is a 13/16 thread.
Next mod, now that I know I don't need an oil cooler for this application I'll remove the oil temperature gauge and install a psid indicator. It moves the needle into the green at about 5psid and the red is about 20psi the filter bypasses at 22psid. When I change the oil if the filter isn't in the red I'll take the filter off, turn it upside down, drain the oil out and put it back on, since it's a hydraulic filter there's no anti drain back valve an the old oil will dump right out.
The oil in the wood chipper oil looks better at 8 hours than it did at 2 hours. I did have to add some oil because of the filter but that can't be the only reason it looks better.
So I'm doing another 459cc test.
This time for my stump grinder.
Since I'll have to buy the filter head this time I'm getting a 3/4-16 thread head. That way I have a wide selection of 5 micron hydraulic filters to put on it.
I haven't ran the stump grinder in a few months but I have 4 big stumps to do today and I'm going add a sample port just like on the wood chipper.
I don't know if I'm going to test a before filter sample. I'll pull the sample and see what it looks like.
Oof $40 shipped. I'm pretty sure several years ago I got the whole thing, filter head block off, and filter head for $40.
So I'm doing another 459cc test.
This time for my stump grinder.
Since I'll have to buy the filter head this time I'm getting a 3/4-16 thread head. That way I have a wide selection of 5 micron hydraulic filters to put on it.
I haven't ran the stump grinder in a few months but I have 4 big stumps to do today and I'm going add a sample port just like on the wood chipper.
I don't know if I'm going to test a before filter sample. I'll pull the sample and see what it looks like.
Oof $40 shipped. I'm pretty sure several years ago I got the whole thing, filter head block off, and filter head for $40.
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My filter for the stump grinder and it's 3/4-16 filter head with 1/2npt in/out will be a wix 57102. A hydraulic filter, microglass media, standard size 3.6 inches by 4 inches tall with no bypass, 10 micron, 7 to 9gpm, around $40. I will have to add some oil after the filter goes on. Plenty over kill as I only need it to do like 1 gallon every 3 to 4 minutes and 2 oil filters will just about last as long as the engine.
Found all the junk I need to plumb it in aside from a 1/8npt tee fitting I'm just out of them and a 4an to 12x1.5mm adaptor.
Found all the junk I need to plumb it in aside from a 1/8npt tee fitting I'm just out of them and a 4an to 12x1.5mm adaptor.
You are a filtering machine @oil pan 4
Just adding an oil filter to an engine that didn't have any filter, but does have a forced oiling system.
Well the order for my 3/4-16 filter head got cancelled, the seller didn't have inventory.
So I got another 13/16-16 filter head for "Chevy style filters". So at least the wood chipper and stump grinder will have the same 10 micron hydraulic filter for their engine oil. Well it's 9.8 micron normal and 27mu absolute.
I still haven't ran the wood chipper with the psid indicator installed. I'm not expecting to see a reading on it for a long time even when cold and the valve wide open. The bt344-s is at a least 7gpm filter. Running the filter loop wide open it barely does 1gpm normally I have the valve cracked and it's filtering a gallon every 3 or 4 minutes.
So I got another 13/16-16 filter head for "Chevy style filters". So at least the wood chipper and stump grinder will have the same 10 micron hydraulic filter for their engine oil. Well it's 9.8 micron normal and 27mu absolute.
I still haven't ran the wood chipper with the psid indicator installed. I'm not expecting to see a reading on it for a long time even when cold and the valve wide open. The bt344-s is at a least 7gpm filter. Running the filter loop wide open it barely does 1gpm normally I have the valve cracked and it's filtering a gallon every 3 or 4 minutes.
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Added a oil filter tap to the 459cc powered stump grinder. Turned some stumps into wood chip piles and pulled a very hot sample of oil to send off.
I think I put mobil1 v-twin oil in it, 2 years ago.
I think I put mobil1 v-twin oil in it, 2 years ago.
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I was wrong that 459cc engine is only a little over a year old. It definitely has more hours on it than the wood chipper.
The oil looks more metally too.
I described the wood chipper oil as dozens if not hundreds of metal flakes visible at any given moment and it only had about 3 hours on it.
The wood chipper has more like 10hrs on it and the oil has hundreds to thousands of metal powder bits in it visible at any given moment, it's definitely worse.
The oil looks more metally too.
I described the wood chipper oil as dozens if not hundreds of metal flakes visible at any given moment and it only had about 3 hours on it.
The wood chipper has more like 10hrs on it and the oil has hundreds to thousands of metal powder bits in it visible at any given moment, it's definitely worse.
Normally I would just "like" a post but in this case I like the whole thread... and there's no button for that.
Thanks for posting all the details !!
Thanks for posting all the details !!
The stump grinder had about 10 hours on it of stock configuration run time on it when I pulled the sample (no oil filter).
So far the wood chipper has about 3 hours of unfiltered time and 8 hours of filtered oil time on it. I'll pull a sample at 10 to 15 hours of filtered time which I'm sure I'll run up at least 7 more hours before the end of the year.
The stump grinder will take at least another year to run up 10 more hours. So don't expect to see a filtered oil test on it any time soon.
Now that I know what 10hrs of run time looks like with no filter (hundreds if not thousands of metal reflective particles visible at any given moment). I can compare that to what 10 to 11hrs of mostly filtered time looks like.
If I read that right filtering oil increases engine life by about 8x.
www.machinerylubrication.com
Some searching on the internet for lawnmowers says 400 to 800 hours on cheap home owner units, I bet that means cheap air filter and no oil filter.
Up to 5,000 hours on air cooled commercial use engines. I'm thinking that means good air filter and intake along with an oil filter.
Up to 7,000 or 8,000 hours for gasoline powered and liquid cooled commercial use mowners.
Up to 15,000 for liquid cooled diesel engine powered commercial mowers.
How to Choose the Right Oil Filter for Your Car
Car owners often get conflicting advice about oil filters. Vehicle owner's manuals, installers, quick-lube operators, mechanics and retail clerks all have different opinions. The reality is that...
www.machinerylubrication.com
Up to 5,000 hours on air cooled commercial use engines. I'm thinking that means good air filter and intake along with an oil filter.
Up to 7,000 or 8,000 hours for gasoline powered and liquid cooled commercial use mowners.
Up to 15,000 for liquid cooled diesel engine powered commercial mowers.
The psid indicator has shown a reading. Running the oil bypass valve wide open when cold about 90f at about 2,900rpm the needle was in the green probably about 6 to 8psi.
Later I tested hot at 4,000rpm with the oil bypass wide open, I'm not sure if I got a reading.
Later I tested hot at 4,000rpm with the oil bypass wide open, I'm not sure if I got a reading.
I did an oil test on my second predator 459cc with 10hrs on one oil change. Took a month to get it back.
Lucky I haven't ran it since I took the sample as I'm painting, powder coating and adding an oil bypass filter.
The important points are:
Oil was too dirty to get a particle count.
They said to change the oil.
Al is 33
Fe is again 33
Si 75
Zn and P were about 1,000 and viscosity was a bit low for 20w-50 so I'm pretty sure I didn't use Mobil1 v-twin.
The air filter was a bit loose. I didn't seem loose enough to be letting dirt in. Test say otherwise... The filter is held down with a nylon ring lock nut now, no more thumb nut and I upgraded the air filter to a Honda filter.
If the oil I used had silicon anti foaming it would have read as about 20 max.
Could also be ground up RTV. Don't know.
Lucky I haven't ran it since I took the sample as I'm painting, powder coating and adding an oil bypass filter.
The important points are:
Oil was too dirty to get a particle count.
They said to change the oil.
Al is 33
Fe is again 33
Si 75
Zn and P were about 1,000 and viscosity was a bit low for 20w-50 so I'm pretty sure I didn't use Mobil1 v-twin.
The air filter was a bit loose. I didn't seem loose enough to be letting dirt in. Test say otherwise... The filter is held down with a nylon ring lock nut now, no more thumb nut and I upgraded the air filter to a Honda filter.
If the oil I used had silicon anti foaming it would have read as about 20 max.
Could also be ground up RTV. Don't know.
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Found an upgrade filter. A Honda air filter for an old cyclone air cleaner will fit. The Honda filter is bigger overall, the paper used is thicker, the plete folds are deeper, they're tighter packed and the foam pre-filter is much densier. Then I topped it off with an additional pre filter made from an old sock, that covers the air filter, then sprayed the old sock down with k&n air filter oil.
Oh and I upgraded the thumb nut to a lock nut, because it did start to vibrate loose.
The hottest I have been able to get the oil is 180F on a 100f day with the oil filter installed.
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A 0.050'' oil restrictor gives up about 5psi of oil pressure with hot 15w-40 at idle, note my idle is 1,800rpm when hot.
So I would recommend a 50 thousands or smaller bypass flow restrictor on these engines.
If an engine running say 5w-30 oil on a go-kart you might want a 1mm or 40 thousands restrictor, because of thinner oil and lower idle.
A Generator that runs say 3,600rpm all the time could run up to a 1/16 inch or 0.062'' restrictor since it doesn't idle no need to worry about low oil pressure on an idling hot engine.
The first one I tried was an 88 thousands, I figured that would be way too much and it dropped the gally pressure down to around 20psi hot, that's why I included a needle valve.
So I would recommend a 50 thousands or smaller bypass flow restrictor on these engines.
If an engine running say 5w-30 oil on a go-kart you might want a 1mm or 40 thousands restrictor, because of thinner oil and lower idle.
A Generator that runs say 3,600rpm all the time could run up to a 1/16 inch or 0.062'' restrictor since it doesn't idle no need to worry about low oil pressure on an idling hot engine.
The first one I tried was an 88 thousands, I figured that would be way too much and it dropped the gally pressure down to around 20psi hot, that's why I included a needle valve.
I pulled a sample from the wood chiper with 9 hours of filter run time.
The oil looks like typical car oil, a little dark but I don't see a bunch of crap floating around. I would say at least 95% of the reflective particles are gone, now instead of seeing dozens if not hundreds of them I see maybe 5 at a time. I dumped the sample back in, looking to hit at least 10 to 15hrs of filter time before I retest.
Compared that to a second 10hr sample of never filtered oil from the stump grinder. I wanted one more look at it before I started filtering. Yeah still at least hundreds of little reflective particles visible in the sunlight at any given moment. I ran the stump grinder today for an hour with the oil filter on busting up stumps. I am looking to run up about 3 hours of run time before I send off another sample since the lab said "change oil now".
The oil looks like typical car oil, a little dark but I don't see a bunch of crap floating around. I would say at least 95% of the reflective particles are gone, now instead of seeing dozens if not hundreds of them I see maybe 5 at a time. I dumped the sample back in, looking to hit at least 10 to 15hrs of filter time before I retest.
Compared that to a second 10hr sample of never filtered oil from the stump grinder. I wanted one more look at it before I started filtering. Yeah still at least hundreds of little reflective particles visible in the sunlight at any given moment. I ran the stump grinder today for an hour with the oil filter on busting up stumps. I am looking to run up about 3 hours of run time before I send off another sample since the lab said "change oil now".
I would say the cleanliness of the oil is greatly improved.
The dirt would settle down into the etchings on the dipstick. Now with the oil filter in the loop, no more dirt in the dipstick etchings. Now the inside of the engine is as clean as a watch.
It's just an eye based observation but a fairly dramatic one.
The dirt would settle down into the etchings on the dipstick. Now with the oil filter in the loop, no more dirt in the dipstick etchings. Now the inside of the engine is as clean as a watch.
It's just an eye based observation but a fairly dramatic one.
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