Antiseize on spark plugs

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quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
One thing I worry about with using antiseize is what happens when you get some of it in the combustion chamber, and then what if it gets into your oil? Will it skew the UOA results?

You put it on VERY sparingly. No large globs just a thin coat. And I wipe the threads with antisieze with my finger or a very small stiff brush to thin it out. Just keep any away from the bottom few threads and you'll be ok. I've never had any problems with using antisieze.

Whimsey
 
quote:

Since your plugs are a "snap" to change are you using copper ones now?

Yep, I'm using the NGK V-power copper plugs. I see no reason to go with platinums or iridiums when they are 3-4 times higher in price but don't make any more horsepower.

I'm glad to have a car I can start doing plugs on again. I never did my own plugs on my LT1 Firebird, it was far too difficult. I paid a friend $100 to do them, and it took him 8 hours (including plug wires, which are even harder to do on the LT1) and he's not a novice either, he's done LT1 plugs over a dozen times. So the entire time I owned that car I only had the plugs done once (I owned it for almost three years and put 50k on it)
 
Any "double-platinum" plug will have this "puck." It's basically a small platinum disk that's laser-welded to the ground electrode. The only problems I've heard with them are with the AC Delco version. In my car, however, they were all intact after 80k miles.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I doubt you could get it all off anywhere it made contacted.

Liquid Wrench can get the stuff out of carpet. Remember those packets that Autozone sells? They can land on the garage floor and stick to your shoe...
 
I use the copper anti-sieze which I think is good for 1600 deg. It seems to work OK and is still there when it's time to change them. It's also less messy then the grey stuff.

-T
 
I was told that Iridiums, while more expensive, has the same resistance as copper but last much longer. I'd use Iridiums IMO. Patman, it might have been on here somewhere but I've heard that using antiseize creates more heat around the plug.
 
you should only need antiseize for dissimilar metals like steel plug in an aluminum head.

a steel plug in a cast iron head is not going to have problems. stripping the threads in a cast iron head is pretty difficult. the use of oil on the threads is not meant to be an "antiseize" but rather to lubricate the threads during assembly.

if you have aluminum heads you should use a high temperature antiseize of some sort. aluminum is soft and galls easily.
 
Actually anti seize is a requirement if you have aluminum heads. If you have aluminum heads and the plug is stuck, run the engine for just a minute or two to make the head expand then the plug should come out.

Also, don't ease the plug out, get all you can get on first try, it seems to seperate the metals better than easing it back. Easing the plug out seems to let the metals bond and pull the threads out with the plug.

I use antiseize on exhaust bolts, wheel studs, etc..anything that is exposed to high heat or contamination...makes getting them apart next time much easier.

Dan
 
quote:

You put it on VERY sparingly. No large globs just a thin coat.

Yeah, the stuff doesn't have to be applied like peanut butter. Heck, even if you wipe it off with a paper towel ..I doubt you could get it all off anywhere it made contacted. Some is going to remain in the recesses of the threads and can't NOT "contaminate", so to speak, the entire thread just by the "screw" action. It will migrate via contact ..and not much else. The stuff I use Bos-something or other (tek?) is good to 1200 degrees and has aluminum powder in it.


I too use it on every exhaust job. The "next" guy will thank me.
grin.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
I was told that Iridiums, while more expensive, has the same resistance as copper but last much longer. I'd use Iridiums IMO.

Iridium NGKs cost 4 times more than copper NGKs up here though!
 
Hey Patman, I just did my...ughhh...12 spark plugs in July. Used the crayon anti-seize in Can. Tire. Used sparingly, I can't see how it would end up in the combustion chamber. You don't need a lot. Also, I think the oil that's some times seen upon removal is slow migration/leakage down from the valve cover gaskets.
 
Patman, please use the anti-seize on the spark plugs. I have a 94 LT1 with iron heads and faithfully use it. It is even more important with the aluminum heads like the Camaro/ vette LT1. Like all have said above 'use sparingly'. Also a bottle 4" tall will last a lifetime of use. I use the silver bottle Permatex brand Anti-seize. The use is important esp. with long life plugs. Many are leaving them in from 30k to 100k and more. Also I am hearing from the Impala list some in the rust belt (salt on the snow) that the spark plugs tend to freeze more quickly in the heads due to slush splashing up on the plugs. Don't use the built-in applicator. Use a Q tip or edge of a shop rag to get a light coat.
 
I have decided to definitely start using antiseize now, I'm going to buy some of the copper stuff. I'll try it out on my wife's plugs which I'll be doing very soon.
 
My little ritual of the past thirty years is to prep the sparkplugs the night before the work. I remove each, check for gap alignment, and re-set gap to spec. I use copper-based anti-seize on the threads being sure that no a-s is on threads exposed to combustion chamber. Depending on engine design, this can vary. Use old plug as guide.

Also, as a-s likely has some conductivity to it (my guess), I also don't allow it on the external end threads either. Copper anti-seize has excellent heat conductivity (some types do not, and cause a plug to run a touch hotter). I also use a dab of NO-ALOX on the high tension wire end (as well as in boot; I know, some want di-electric here).

As to removal, a blast of shop air, careful removal, a spark-plug thread-cleaning tool run down to break off carbon and grit (could use shop vac to assist in these two operations); and the careful hand-threading in of the sparkplug.

On the latest vehicle, with distributorless, as with the older ones (pre-1981), a "make-shiny" moment with the interior of the coil-on-plug connector and a bit more di-electric (No-Alox is an electrical conductor [metal particles] so I don't use it here), and one is pretty well done.

Would I not use anti-seize? Well, I have a car outside here with a stripped exhaust manifold bolt-hole. Care to guess who got in a hurry a few years back installing these 25-lb manifolds from above? Going to have to remove head to fix the problem.

I have had two big V8's with enormous (high perf) exhaust manifolds. On each, there was a plug that was a complete sonnuva you-know-what to get to. Anti-seize made me feel a LOT more confident about not breaking plug in half when removing; when I "felt" it starting to turn out.

As to getting away from factory recommended plugs, my investigations have always found some shortcomings, somewhere (the exception being an old Chev smallbock where BOSCH standard platinums were an aid due to oil-fouling). Todays cars are factory-tuned mighty tightly. And a performance car like yours possibly even more so.

Hard to ever go wrong with factory-spec plugs, IMO. Just change 'em more often. Shoot, one of my neighbors back in the early '70's changed the plugs on his hot Roadrunner EVERY weekend.

Good luck.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I was going to post this in the other thread, but felt it deserved it's own topic.

I'm curious as to the benefits of putting antiseize on spark plugs as opposed to simply using motor oil on the threads? Everyone has motor oil lying around, so why spend extra $$ buying antiseize? (especially when some of it could get into your combustion chamber)


Patman, here's a safe dry film lubricant that I've used many times on spark plug threads in order to prevent galling,and for it to be easier to remove and such.This is exactly what it's to be used for.It's made by Champion in the Aviation Products division.It's used in aviation and racing. You do not use used/new motor oil. .

The part number is CH 2612 (threead lubricant). You can get it at aviation supply shops.

[ September 25, 2004, 10:56 PM: Message edited by: sawed-off ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dan4510:


I use antiseize on exhaust bolts

Dan


I'm all for using antiseize on plugs, and maybe on flange bolts, but never again on "u" clamps! The first exhaust system that I installed I liberally globbed Nickel based antiseize EVERYWHERE, including all over the clamp threads. Even though everything was torqued down, a week later (after a good bit of off-road abuse) the clamps fell off!

I was younger and a bit more stupid then...
 
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Sorry about being off topic.

Bob, I had the same problem recently, with muffler clamps loosening after several heat/cool cycles. My solution was to use an extra "jam" nut to lock the first nut in place. Works great.
 
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