Anti-seize Saves The Day (Once Again)

[Number_35]

An elderly friend has an old (2007) and very rusty Mazda5. In car years here in Winterpeg, the car is just about as old as the owner (86 or 87) is.

These microvans are generally good vehicles, but they do have a few weaknesses. (My wife and I owned a 2009 for quite a few years, and passed it on to our son a few years ago. I still do the repairs and maintenance, so know these vehicles well.)

One weakness is the rear shock mounts. They are the same ones used in the much lighter Mazda3 and Ford Focus. The mounts are aluminum, and break fairly often - I think they're overstressed in the heavier Mazda5.

I had previously done both sides on our friend's 2007, and recently the driver's side mount broke again.

Mazda doesn't sell the mounts separately, but I use aftermarket units - they're much cheaper than replacing the entire rear shock with its integrated mount.

Anyway, I feared the worst, but I must have really slathered on the anti-seize a few years ago - the big bolt (M12?) at the bottom of the shock came out fine, and so did the small nuts on the studs (M8?) that secure the shock mount at the top. There was still lots of silver paste on the big bolt and the studs.

I'm almost positive this vehicle will not get another shock mount, but was generous with the anti-seize anyway.

I also cleaned up the mounting surface with a fibre brush on the drill, hoping to get rid of any stress points.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I use anti-seize on EVERYTHING. Saved my behind many of times. Living in the Salt Belt , you need some kind of ammo. Anti-seize fits the bill everytime. NEVER let me down...The key to anti seize is stir that can/bottle good. Tends to settle and dry out on the bottom. Get those oils in it all mixed up well.

 

[CharBaby]

My daughter had the same problem 3X on her ‘06 Mazda 3i. Each time, the rear shock mounts broke when she was leaving for a trip and had to turn back. Finally, I started spraying(saturating) Fluid Film on them ‘til she got rid of the car after 9 years of ownership.

 

[Jetronic]

I use anti-seize on EVERYTHING. Saved my behind many of times. Living in the Salt Belt , you need some kind of ammo. Anti-seize fits the bill everytime. NEVER let me down...The key to anti seize is stir that can/bottle good. Tends to settle and dry out on the bottom. Get those oils in it all mixed up well.

Get the right anti seize and it won't ever dry or drop oil. Look for Bentonite clay based.

 

[John105]

I never got to see the results, but I did a 4 rotor brake job on a 2011 Enclave in 2018. The rotors were really hard to get off and I used a bfh. I overdid the anti seize on the new rotors/hubs to the point of my uncle who was watching saying if I did this in a shop I'd be disciplined or fired for wasting material unnecessarily. The vehicle is gone, so I'll never know. But I always wondered if the next set of rotors would be easily installed because the old ones would come off easily. It's funny on my 20 y.o. Lexus there are no set screws and nothing keeps the rotors from falling off, other than the calipers, so they are loose (other than parking brakes in the rears where the shoes fall off if you yank on the rotors with brake set--don't ask how I know this). Why aren't all vehicles like that....

 

[RooflessVW]

I've always wondered if anti-seize is actual the correct product for most threads. I always thought it was for stainless-stainless threads or dissimilar metals.

If corrosion prevention is the primary concern, wouldn't a grease or oil designed for the purpose, like cosmoline, be more appropriate?

 

[Trav]

Most common antiseize compounds are oil/grease based but for metals like SS and Titanium or other prone to galling metals ceramic is used or just dip the bolt in Milk of magnesia which is magnesium hydroxide, also was (may still be) recommended for jet turbine hot sides and igniter plugs.

 

[Number_35]

I've always wondered if anti-seize is actual the correct product for most threads. I always thought it was for stainless-stainless threads or dissimilar metals.

If corrosion prevention is the primary concern, wouldn't a grease or oil designed for the purpose, like cosmoline, be more appropriate?

I'm not sure anti-seize is the best possible product, but it certainly helped me in this case (and many others).

 

[Number_35]

I never got to see the results, but I did a 4 rotor brake job on a 2011 Enclave in 2018. The rotors were really hard to get off and I used a bfh. I overdid the anti seize on the new rotors/hubs to the point of my uncle who was watching saying if I did this in a shop I'd be disciplined or fired for wasting material unnecessarily. The vehicle is gone, so I'll never know. But I always wondered if the next set of rotors would be easily installed because the old ones would come off easily. It's funny on my 20 y.o. Lexus there are no set screws and nothing keeps the rotors from falling off, other than the calipers, so they are loose (other than parking brakes in the rears where the shoes fall off if you yank on the rotors with brake set--don't ask how I know this). Why aren't all vehicles like that....

I've never been able to predict when a rotor will be rusted on. I usually (probably always) use anti-seize on the contact surface of the new rotor (or corresponding spot on the hub) where the old rotor was rusted on.

 

[Number_35]

My daughter had the same problem 3X on her ‘06 Mazda 3i. Each time, the rear shock mounts broke when she was leaving for a trip and had to turn back. Finally, I started spraying(saturating) Fluid Film on them ‘til she got rid of the car after 9 years of ownership.

I also spray them, and haven't had a broken one in the 12 years the 5 has been in the family.

 

[Stumpalump]

I subscribe to the “Every bolt gets something” theory. Oil, anti seize,Locktight or 3M5200. These fit in a dime a dozen caulk gun. You can also stir 10-20% in grease when you need an extreme pressure grease like for CV’s. https://www.kartek.com/parts/bel-ra...MyXhQxFeS8B3f7CrMeX35eCWvHKBF-ecgZuI5i_5o8knG

 

[50yr Street Mech]

SALT BELT strikes again !!!!!!! Anti-seize puts up a good fight against the salt belt. I put a thin coat on the hub bearings where the rotors mate together. Never had another one get stuck on. Little tap with a hammer,comes right off.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I use anti seize on most things. My coworkers all think I’m crazy but then I see them having to get the torch out for stuff or very long ratchets or wrenches or whatever. I put it behind every brake rotor because I get tired of having to use a hammer or bolt to take them off. I’m not in the rust belt but we have seen our share of cars from up that way down here or just cars that rust out in general. The big boss once seen me using anti seize on a hub behind a rotor and he is like what are you doing I’m like putting anti seize on it so it doesn’t stick to the hub he is like don’t do that that would be like putting the rotor on a marshmallow and reduces friction. I’m was thinking to myself at this point yeah there is probably a reason you aren’t a tech anymore lol. At work and home I have copper, silver and nickel anti seize and use it all for various things.

 

[BrianF]

Years ago, I just used grease on most bolts and mating surfaces. Worked well but not a long term solution.

Nowadays I follow this simple rule, to quote @AutoMechanic verbatim, "don't be a btch, Brian, put some **** antisieze on it!"

 

[Mainia]

I'm not sure anti-seize is the best possible product, but it certainly helped me in this case (and many others).

Fluid Film, with 2 coats, with 15 mins between coats as it thickens with flash off.

Even better

CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-06026-Heavy-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B0000AXYA0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3O4NI01PCI58X&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uPU_H5kcNbzKfcGyHZCGMURBThcCz4DGQMA7ZZHZCfke7Py3DHO4dbqDvmMkm0nYMLvNPgFETTepLHHl849KJKyLYvdA_Z7Y_UiBCcQhHRUGo25ecN4XA7haKzNW35viMUfuQEhJlMZ5QOGk6TpY70gFLJQGRrL6daAqqjkkW_oYUEcKx-j4IEuUHjWZU667KVAwsdVatQM0aR4HXbsKd6rMhc8BYt3RgcprBrtzcRNOPf8VLsI6K_VbkaGxFrR8odeB-bd2NxAy-Zp-7Fpxjj3aUFeDlVtxPqWyy9S_fNA.4BSNEMAJN6QfTXG1-TgfFa3I76DDBwuLY0KZppf2xvs&dib_tag=se&keywords=crc+marine+corrosion+inhibitor&qid=1757776705&sprefix=crc+Marine+,aps,204&sr=8-3&th=1

.

 

[mikeduf]

I just did a rear shock and front strut job and I always use wheel bearing 100% Synthetic Grease on the threads.

There are some areas that I would not use anti-seize or synthetic wheel bearing grease like the knuckle bolt where you need a thread lock instead.

I'm not really sure 100% synthetic wheel bearing grease is proper for nuts and bolts but it seems to do the trick when the time comes.

On bolts like torsion bar end links I always put a dab of fluorescent colored Bolt lock. Just a dab at the end to let me know if the bolt is coming loose. I also put a dab on the strut cam bolts.

 

[Jetronic]

I use anti seize on most things. My coworkers all think I’m crazy but then I see them having to get the torch out for stuff or very long ratchets or wrenches or whatever. I put it behind every brake rotor because I get tired of having to use a hammer or bolt to take them off. I’m not in the rust belt but we have seen our share of cars from up that way down here or just cars that rust out in general. The big boss once seen me using anti seize on a hub behind a rotor and he is like what are you doing I’m like putting anti seize on it so it doesn’t stick to the hub he is like don’t do that that would be like putting the rotor on a marshmallow and reduces friction. I’m was thinking to myself at this point yeah there is probably a reason you aren’t a tech anymore lol. At work and home I have copper, silver and nickel anti seize and use it all for various things.

A good tech gets tired of torching off rusted stuff the first time.... Laziness in a good way I suppose, putting a little effort in today to save a lot later.

 

[Jetronic]

I just did a rear shock and front strut job and I always use wheel bearing 100% Synthetic Grease on the threads.

There are some areas that I would not use anti-seize or synthetic wheel bearing grease like the knuckle bolt where you need a thread lock instead.

I'm not really sure 100% synthetic wheel bearing grease is proper for nuts and bolts but it seems to do the trick when the time comes.

On bolts like torsion bar end links I always put a dab of fluorescent colored Bolt lock. Just a dab at the end to let me know if the bolt is coming loose. I also put a dab on the strut cam bolts.

I haven't had much luck with bearing grease lasting.