MMO = great gor the gas tank
I`d
I`d
another MMO question
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MMO = great for thae gas tank
I`d never put in in my oil
I`d never put in in my oil
It's worked well in gas and oil for me over the years. Mechtech2 summed it up well.
Nice tool for the tool box, especially if lifters are ticking, or varnish and sludge are present. Or engine history is unknown. YMMV
Nice tool for the tool box, especially if lifters are ticking, or varnish and sludge are present. Or engine history is unknown. YMMV
Have had 1qt MMO/4qts 15w40HDEO in my crankcase for over 3k miles now. No problems to report thus far, I will run it out to 5k and probably do a UOA on it.
I would not reccomend it for full time use on a vehicle with a known maintenance history, maybe a little dose for the last bit of an oil change would be beneficial.
I would not reccomend it for full time use on a vehicle with a known maintenance history, maybe a little dose for the last bit of an oil change would be beneficial.
Originally Posted By: bt99
MMO = great for thae gas tank
I`d never put in in my oil
I will be putting it in both. As far as the crankcase goes, mechtech summed it up well.
As far as it not being needed with PP & PU on the market, I disagree. I'm using PP. It is not the same as MMO, the main ingredient is not the same, and the purpose is not the same. Faulty comparison = faulty conclusion.
I see MMO as having a fairly potent (compared to any oil bearing the API SM logo) solvent that can complement the strong detergent package in PP or PU. Despite the heavy doses of calcium in both of the latter, I don't think they clean sludge as effectively or as quickly as MMO mainly because I don't think calcium, or any API SM detergent/dispersent, can penetrate heavy baked on sludge effectively enough to remove it unless you're talking many, many OCIs.
I think MMO & PP together can do it in one - and safely if care is used in how, when, and for how long the MMO is added. Maybe not 100% of it, but enough penetration that PP & PU can clean out what's left without sticking to the same short OCIs, and in less time.
I liken MMO to a catalyst in this sense. But this is theory, YMMV. I am following just this plan to clean a badly sludged Corolla, so this isn't all talk.
-Spyder
MMO = great for thae gas tank
I`d never put in in my oil
I will be putting it in both. As far as the crankcase goes, mechtech summed it up well.
As far as it not being needed with PP & PU on the market, I disagree. I'm using PP. It is not the same as MMO, the main ingredient is not the same, and the purpose is not the same. Faulty comparison = faulty conclusion.
I see MMO as having a fairly potent (compared to any oil bearing the API SM logo) solvent that can complement the strong detergent package in PP or PU. Despite the heavy doses of calcium in both of the latter, I don't think they clean sludge as effectively or as quickly as MMO mainly because I don't think calcium, or any API SM detergent/dispersent, can penetrate heavy baked on sludge effectively enough to remove it unless you're talking many, many OCIs.
I think MMO & PP together can do it in one - and safely if care is used in how, when, and for how long the MMO is added. Maybe not 100% of it, but enough penetration that PP & PU can clean out what's left without sticking to the same short OCIs, and in less time.
I liken MMO to a catalyst in this sense. But this is theory, YMMV. I am following just this plan to clean a badly sludged Corolla, so this isn't all talk.
-Spyder
iam not trying to hijack this thread or jump in where i dont belong. if i am please forgive me. i have been using mmo for 3 decades. right now i have a dodge dakota v6. it is amazing how easy it starts, i have been running mmo in it for 2 years. i think i read on this forum that reg mmo is not for diesel fuel. also there is a co the makes products like the old upper oiler that mmo made. just google ampco. i have been using one for 1 1/2 years. its so much better than pouring out of the bottle when its 0 degrees outside.
I have two of the original 2 qt MMO Inverse Oilers. I used one for about 20 years, I disconnected it this summer. They are great, there is only one problem with them. The MMO doesn't pass through the fuel injectors when you use the inverse oiler. So the MMO isn't keeping the injectors clean and oiled. That's the only downside to it.
ok demarpaint. you for sure have a point. so i have to confuse i still put mmo in the tank. i know thats two times as much mmo as recommended. but it seams to be ok. in a year and a half it has not fouled a spark plug. when i started it i thought i would have to adjust the amount to keep from fouling a plug. but iam running full amount with out trouble.
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Originally Posted By: morris
ok demarpaint. you for sure have a point. so i have to confuse i still put mmo in the tank. i know thats two times as much mmo as recommended. but it seams to be ok. in a year and a half it has not fouled a spark plug. when i started it i thought i would have to adjust the amount to keep from fouling a plug. but iam running full amount with out trouble.
Oh OK you use the oiler and add MMO to the gas? I did that from time to time as well. Honestly I think the oiler is a great idea, I did use it for well over 20 years. I disconnected it because I was having issues with my van, and was checking for vacuum leaks at the time, so I eliminated the Tee fitting. As it turned out I had no vacuum leaks, I just never recommected it. I also thought it was going out of calibration, but I never confirmed that.
I had dirty injectors, and then it dawned on me that the MMO was never going through the injectors, so I left the Inverse Oiler disconnected, and was adding it directly to the fuel. I do that with two other vehicles. Next time I take the dog house out of the van I'm going to reconnect it.
How many drips per minute do you have your flow rate set up at? I'm thinking of cutting the drip rate in half, and then adding half the amount of MMO to the gas tank. Double the dose isn't going to harm the engine one bit, but it might cut fuel economy a bit. It is something that will have to be experimented with. JMO
ok demarpaint. you for sure have a point. so i have to confuse i still put mmo in the tank. i know thats two times as much mmo as recommended. but it seams to be ok. in a year and a half it has not fouled a spark plug. when i started it i thought i would have to adjust the amount to keep from fouling a plug. but iam running full amount with out trouble.
Oh OK you use the oiler and add MMO to the gas? I did that from time to time as well. Honestly I think the oiler is a great idea, I did use it for well over 20 years. I disconnected it because I was having issues with my van, and was checking for vacuum leaks at the time, so I eliminated the Tee fitting. As it turned out I had no vacuum leaks, I just never recommected it. I also thought it was going out of calibration, but I never confirmed that.
I had dirty injectors, and then it dawned on me that the MMO was never going through the injectors, so I left the Inverse Oiler disconnected, and was adding it directly to the fuel. I do that with two other vehicles. Next time I take the dog house out of the van I'm going to reconnect it.
How many drips per minute do you have your flow rate set up at? I'm thinking of cutting the drip rate in half, and then adding half the amount of MMO to the gas tank. Double the dose isn't going to harm the engine one bit, but it might cut fuel economy a bit. It is something that will have to be experimented with. JMO
I had an inline oiler for an old VW Jusdsen supercharger.
You counted the drips per minute to adjustthe rate of flow.
MMO was recommended as the lube!
You counted the drips per minute to adjustthe rate of flow.
MMO was recommended as the lube!
well i am not using an original marvel oiler. it is the ampco unit. it doesnt have a plate that the oil drips off of, it has a thing that looks like a bolt thread. the air and oil pass over it. you cant count drips like an original marvel units. i just adjusted it till it used 1 qt in 800-900 miles. but i do have an old original marvel unit, i used it for 15 years, but the seal for the site glass is bad. when my old marvel unit was working i set it to drop 6-8 drops per min , engine idling. now this a mild engine, no big cams. every day iam amazed at how fast my engine starts. thanks to gary allen for the url for ampco, i
think i have it in my book marks, but that doesnt mean i can find it.
think i have it in my book marks, but that doesnt mean i can find it.
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I had mine adjusted to use a qt of MMO ~ every 1000 miles. Under a heavy load it would use more, which is what you wanted it to do. I think I'm going to hook it up again, count the drip rate/2 and then add half the amount to the gas just to see what happens. The engine does start up faster when MMO is used.
I add a quart of mmo to 4 qts of t6 Rotella 5w40, have been doing this now for some time. 252,000 on my 318 one ton cargo van. I have been running pennzoil 2 cycle synthetic oil with tcw3 at one oz per 5 gal of gas as an ucl and fuel pump lube and injector cleaner per sarge on LS1. I also run MMO in the gas every once in awhile, plus MMO goes in the John Deere's gas and oil too. I do not have any engine down time as I run 8k to 10 k a month hauling freight from 5lbs to 2500 lbs, I cant have down time on my engine, but stuff happens, mostly waterpumps or t stat stuff now.
That's a lot of driving! I bet that engine is clean as a whistle!
I was beginning to become skeptical of the utility of a UCL like MMO or tc-w3 - until I did a fillup without it. Now, unless I'm doing a Regane cleaning cycle, either MMO or tc-w3 will go into every fill up as my skepticism is gone.
Its not anything I can quantify or explain scientifically. But the cost of a UCL is negligible, the risk of harm (when used in appropriate amounts) zero, and the benefits - even if impossible to prove or quantify - are real.
I also like the idea of dosing winter oil (beginning near when temps start to reach their lowest) with some MMO (10% for me). I don't expect to prove anything by doing so (as with the use of tc-w3), its just one of those things that makes enough sense for me to do.
PEA based cleaners, MMO (used cautiously), and tc-w3 are the only additives I've found so far to be beneficial. Not that I've tried everything out there, but for my purposes, I can accomplish what I need to with just three as appropriate.
-Spyder
Its not anything I can quantify or explain scientifically. But the cost of a UCL is negligible, the risk of harm (when used in appropriate amounts) zero, and the benefits - even if impossible to prove or quantify - are real.
I also like the idea of dosing winter oil (beginning near when temps start to reach their lowest) with some MMO (10% for me). I don't expect to prove anything by doing so (as with the use of tc-w3), its just one of those things that makes enough sense for me to do.
PEA based cleaners, MMO (used cautiously), and tc-w3 are the only additives I've found so far to be beneficial. Not that I've tried everything out there, but for my purposes, I can accomplish what I need to with just three as appropriate.
-Spyder
I've noticed something interesting. MMO makes my Jeep idle a little smoother, and has no effect either way on mpg. However, contrary to most peoples' experience, it seems to be a tiny bit slower to start when cold with MMO in the gas compared to without. Warm, however, it still fires at a touch of the key.
i realy enjoy this forum. i WAS on 3 radio control forums. but some people get to thinking they are all in all. iam outa there. iam going to be here. i might be selling my rc stuff, MIGHT. iam not for sure.
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
I was beginning to become skeptical of the utility of a UCL like MMO or tc-w3 - until I did a fillup without it. Now, unless I'm doing a Regane cleaning cycle, either MMO or tc-w3 will go into every fill up as my skepticism is gone.
Its not anything I can quantify or explain scientifically. But the cost of a UCL is negligible, the risk of harm (when used in appropriate amounts) zero, and the benefits - even if impossible to prove or quantify - are real.
I also like the idea of dosing winter oil (beginning near when temps start to reach their lowest) with some MMO (10% for me). I don't expect to prove anything by doing so (as with the use of tc-w3), its just one of those things that makes enough sense for me to do.
PEA based cleaners, MMO (used cautiously), and tc-w3 are the only additives I've found so far to be beneficial. Not that I've tried everything out there, but for my purposes, I can accomplish what I need to with just three as appropriate.
-Spyder
I'm glad you have an open mind and are willing to try for yourself, experiment, then share! Good for you! When the weather gets colder I slightly up the dose of MMO in the gas. I'm not sure if it helps any but the quality of the winter fuel changes, IMO the change is not for the better. Instead of 4 ounces for 10 gallons of gas I'll add 4 1/2-5 ounces.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I've noticed something interesting. MMO makes my Jeep idle a little smoother, and has no effect either way on mpg. However, contrary to most peoples' experience, it seems to be a tiny bit slower to start when cold with MMO in the gas compared to without. Warm, however, it still fires at a touch of the key.
Many people are saying that. I believe that a UCL makes for a tighter ring seal giving a smoother idle and in some cases a bit more power in older engines. The better ring seal translates to a smoother idle. Rich Kelly over at Turtle Wax had confirmed this with me.
I was beginning to become skeptical of the utility of a UCL like MMO or tc-w3 - until I did a fillup without it. Now, unless I'm doing a Regane cleaning cycle, either MMO or tc-w3 will go into every fill up as my skepticism is gone.
Its not anything I can quantify or explain scientifically. But the cost of a UCL is negligible, the risk of harm (when used in appropriate amounts) zero, and the benefits - even if impossible to prove or quantify - are real.
I also like the idea of dosing winter oil (beginning near when temps start to reach their lowest) with some MMO (10% for me). I don't expect to prove anything by doing so (as with the use of tc-w3), its just one of those things that makes enough sense for me to do.
PEA based cleaners, MMO (used cautiously), and tc-w3 are the only additives I've found so far to be beneficial. Not that I've tried everything out there, but for my purposes, I can accomplish what I need to with just three as appropriate.
-Spyder
I'm glad you have an open mind and are willing to try for yourself, experiment, then share! Good for you! When the weather gets colder I slightly up the dose of MMO in the gas. I'm not sure if it helps any but the quality of the winter fuel changes, IMO the change is not for the better. Instead of 4 ounces for 10 gallons of gas I'll add 4 1/2-5 ounces.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I've noticed something interesting. MMO makes my Jeep idle a little smoother, and has no effect either way on mpg. However, contrary to most peoples' experience, it seems to be a tiny bit slower to start when cold with MMO in the gas compared to without. Warm, however, it still fires at a touch of the key.
Many people are saying that. I believe that a UCL makes for a tighter ring seal giving a smoother idle and in some cases a bit more power in older engines. The better ring seal translates to a smoother idle. Rich Kelly over at Turtle Wax had confirmed this with me.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
I was beginning to become skeptical of the utility of a UCL like MMO or tc-w3 - until I did a fillup without it. Now, unless I'm doing a Regane cleaning cycle, either MMO or tc-w3 will go into every fill up as my skepticism is gone.
Its not anything I can quantify or explain scientifically. But the cost of a UCL is negligible, the risk of harm (when used in appropriate amounts) zero, and the benefits - even if impossible to prove or quantify - are real.
I also like the idea of dosing winter oil (beginning near when temps start to reach their lowest) with some MMO (10% for me). I don't expect to prove anything by doing so (as with the use of tc-w3), its just one of those things that makes enough sense for me to do.
PEA based cleaners, MMO (used cautiously), and tc-w3 are the only additives I've found so far to be beneficial. Not that I've tried everything out there, but for my purposes, I can accomplish what I need to with just three as appropriate.
-Spyder
I'm glad you have an open mind and are willing to try for yourself, experiment, then share! Good for you! When the weather gets colder I slightly up the dose of MMO in the gas. I'm not sure if it helps any but the quality of the winter fuel changes, IMO the change is not for the better. Instead of 4 ounces for 10 gallons of gas I'll add 4 1/2-5 ounces.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I've noticed something interesting. MMO makes my Jeep idle a little smoother, and has no effect either way on mpg. However, contrary to most peoples' experience, it seems to be a tiny bit slower to start when cold with MMO in the gas compared to without. Warm, however, it still fires at a touch of the key.
Many people are saying that. I believe that a UCL makes for a tighter ring seal giving a smoother idle and in some cases a bit more power in older engines. The better ring seal translates to a smoother idle. Rich Kelly over at Turtle Wax had confirmed this with me.
I've been thinking about going from 3 ounces to 4. And also adding a little more to the 12 ounce dose that's in the crankcase, for about the last 500-1,000 miles of this OCI.
I still haven't put that many miles on this OCI, so it may wind up being my fall & winter OCI. I don't have enough 5W30 PP left for s full OC, so I think I might just let it stretch out until my 5W30 is used up as top up oil, then dump it and put in the 10W30.
Even though this is a cleaning cycle, by using PP & MMO together I don't see any benefit in dumping it after 3 or 4k. This OCI's gotten a lot of top up oil in it and still looks fairly fresh on the stick. It'll need less as the temps cool, but there will still be a regular dose of top up, which will keep the TBN and add pack good.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
I was beginning to become skeptical of the utility of a UCL like MMO or tc-w3 - until I did a fillup without it. Now, unless I'm doing a Regane cleaning cycle, either MMO or tc-w3 will go into every fill up as my skepticism is gone.
Its not anything I can quantify or explain scientifically. But the cost of a UCL is negligible, the risk of harm (when used in appropriate amounts) zero, and the benefits - even if impossible to prove or quantify - are real.
I also like the idea of dosing winter oil (beginning near when temps start to reach their lowest) with some MMO (10% for me). I don't expect to prove anything by doing so (as with the use of tc-w3), its just one of those things that makes enough sense for me to do.
PEA based cleaners, MMO (used cautiously), and tc-w3 are the only additives I've found so far to be beneficial. Not that I've tried everything out there, but for my purposes, I can accomplish what I need to with just three as appropriate.
-Spyder
I'm glad you have an open mind and are willing to try for yourself, experiment, then share! Good for you! When the weather gets colder I slightly up the dose of MMO in the gas. I'm not sure if it helps any but the quality of the winter fuel changes, IMO the change is not for the better. Instead of 4 ounces for 10 gallons of gas I'll add 4 1/2-5 ounces.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I've noticed something interesting. MMO makes my Jeep idle a little smoother, and has no effect either way on mpg. However, contrary to most peoples' experience, it seems to be a tiny bit slower to start when cold with MMO in the gas compared to without. Warm, however, it still fires at a touch of the key.
Many people are saying that. I believe that a UCL makes for a tighter ring seal giving a smoother idle and in some cases a bit more power in older engines. The better ring seal translates to a smoother idle. Rich Kelly over at Turtle Wax had confirmed this with me.
I've been thinking about going from 3 ounces to 4. And also adding a little more to the 12 ounce dose that's in the crankcase, for about the last 500-1,000 miles of this OCI.
I still haven't put that many miles on this OCI, so it may wind up being my fall & winter OCI. I don't have enough 5W30 PP left for s full OC, so I think I might just let it stretch out until my 5W30 is used up as top up oil, then dump it and put in the 10W30.
Even though this is a cleaning cycle, by using PP & MMO together I don't see any benefit in dumping it after 3 or 4k. This OCI's gotten a lot of top up oil in it and still looks fairly fresh on the stick. It'll need less as the temps cool, but there will still be a regular dose of top up, which will keep the TBN and add pack good.
-Spyder
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