Another 5w30 vs 10w30

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Nick1994

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In my owners manual (outdated I'm sure) it says 10w30 a over 0 degrees and over 100 degrees for the range, and 5w30 for below 0 degrees and up to 100 degrees. Even the Amsoil website says this. (On the 97 Camry in my sig)

Where is the logic in this? Why wouldn't they recommend 5w30 over 100 degrees?

My next change is with PU 5w30, which I got 31 quarts total for $1 each 5w30 & 10w30.
 
My ciera manual says 10w 30. I've been running 5w 30. I did buy some 10w 30 nextgen hm for $5 a jug. I will use that in the summer. I can't see any problem using 5w 30 in place of 10w 30. I think 5w 30 was a bit new in the early ninety's and many manufacturers did not spec it.
 
Its just because back in the day oils tended to shear more, but the oils today dont suffer as bad.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
In my owners manual (outdated I'm sure) it says 10w30 a over 0 degrees and over 100 degrees for the range, and 5w30 for below 0 degrees and up to 100 degrees. Even the Amsoil website says this. (On the 97 Camry in my sig)

Where is the logic in this? Why wouldn't they recommend 5w30 over 100 degrees?

My next change is with PU 5w30, which I got 31 quarts total for $1 each 5w30 & 10w30.


Easy. With your stockpile, 5w30 winter, 10w30 summer. gregk2 is right, today's 5w30s hold up much better than even ten years ago.
 
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Blend them up it wont make any difference. Also using the 10w30 in the summer would be a better idea but you could probably do longer than 1 year oci depending on mileage.
 
Originally Posted By: rossn2
Quote:
I did buy some 10w 30 nextgen hm for $5 a jug. I will use that in the summer


You may want to take that back and get a refund..

http://www.pqiamerica.com/



5w30 and 10w30 do not have the same issues meeting NOACK specs as 5w20, his 10w30 should have a much better figure. Also NOACK isn't really a real world test since your oil doesn't get up to 250C for an hour straight. You are lucky to hit 100C in most engines.
 
Originally Posted By: LotI
Originally Posted By: rossn2
Quote:
I did buy some 10w 30 nextgen hm for $5 a jug. I will use that in the summer


You may want to take that back and get a refund..

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

No applicable, different grade.


I'll admit I returned the 10w30 NextGen I bought. I know the advisory was for the 5w20, but it was keeping me awake at night.
 
If your area morning temperature is above 0 degF, you could use 10W30 even though 5W30 would flow better and higher VI. They are the same price so why bother to use 10W30.
 
Originally Posted By: zeuloa
I have a 2010 Corolla and manual recommends 10w30 from 0 to 100f +, and 5w30 from div>



Probably because of lower quality 5w30 available in your country. A good group 3 synthetic like Pennzoil Platinum outshines pretty much any 10w30 from
Maybe they don't want you using a low quality mineral 5w30 that shears too quickly.
 
I think that the pqia warning for Vavloline's nextgen 5w-20 is A) not applicable here, due to the convo being about 5w30 and 10w30, and B) in and of itself is a stretch. Like previously stated before by 901Memphis (btw, +1 to 901Memphis for it), most engines aren't going to see such crazy temps that the nextgen 5w-20 was put under, thus making the advisory on it.

FWIW, here's the 5w30's pqia report (all good):
http://www.pqiamerica.com/ValvolineNextGen.htm
Use it with confidence.

edit: Whoops, that wasn't the HM version, sorry. It was just the regular NextGen 5w30... Can't seem to find the HM version on pqia - anyone? Nonetheless, I'm still leaving that link there anyway.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Also NOACK isn't really a real world test since your oil doesn't get up to 250C for an hour straight. You are lucky to hit 100C in most engines.


Who said that you need to get your oil up to 250C for an hour straight for Noack to be real world ?

There is a film of oil left on the engine bore as the piston descends, and that is pretty hot...and there's a lot of surface area...and it's hot...hotter than the oil in your sump by a lot.

The oil above the piston ring evaporates to a degree. It's proven, as the additives are concentrated in this area, meaning that the oil goes somewhere.

Volatility testing is designed to simulate what happens to this thin, relatively massive (surface area), very hot film of oil...which has direct contact with the catalyst when it boils off.
 
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