Amsoil Signature okay for 15k hard use?

[Mystic]

I don't see where demarpaint mentioned any oil brand here. When you buy a new car it will say in the owner's manual how often you are supposed to change oil. Typically there will be a change interval for so called normal conditions and another for severe service. Read carefully-most people are in the severe service area.

If in the owner's manual it says you are supposed to change oil every 7500 miles or six months, but you use an oil that supposedly can be run one year or 15,000 miles, you still are not following the change interval in the owner's manual. Regardless what brand of oil you are using. It does not matter if you are using Pennzoil, Amsoil, Mobil 1 or whatever. If a problem developed and you had not changed oil for 15,000 miles, you could still be in trouble. What does it say in the owner's manual?

I don't know about anybody else here but when I buy a new car I follow what is stated in the owner's manual. Especially when it comes to oil changes. What is more important than an oil change?

Also, you need to be sure that your motor oil meets the new car warranty requirements. Maybe you better check. Not all motor oils do meet those requirements. Just because a motor oil is a synthetic motor oil does not mean that it meets the new car warranty requirements. Some Mobil 1 motor oils do not meet Ford requirements, for example. The motor oil must meet the vehicle requirements and it must be of the correct viscosity. If I buy a new car, I make sure the motor oil used is of the correct viscosity and meets all requirements.

When I buy a new car I care about my new car. I try to make sure it will run as long as possible. And I don't want to have to get into a fight with the dealership. I do not care about the 'motor oil Olympics.' I would rather have a new car running good than worry about bragging here that I drove my new car two years and 30,000 miles on one oil change. I don't have to impress anybody here. I will change oil according to the owner's manual. Motor oil is not that expensive. And it is cheaper than a new engine. And I don't want to fight with the new car dealership.

 

[DragRace]

Originally Posted By: Mystic


When I buy a new car I care about my new car. I try to make sure it will run as long as possible. And I don't want to have to get into a fight with the dealership. I do not care about the 'motor oil Olympics.' I would rather have a new car running good than worry about bragging here that I drove my new car two years and 30,000 miles on one oil change. I don't have to impress anybody here. I will change oil according to the owner's manual. Motor oil is not that expensive. And it is cheaper than a new engine. And I don't want to fight with the new car dealership.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Mystic
I don't see where demarpaint mentioned any oil brand here. When you buy a new car it will say in the owner's manual how often you are supposed to change oil. Typically there will be a change interval for so called normal conditions and another for severe service. Read carefully-most people are in the severe service area.

If in the owner's manual it says you are supposed to change oil every 7500 miles or six months, but you use an oil that supposedly can be run one year or 15,000 miles, you still are not following the change interval in the owner's manual. Regardless what brand of oil you are using. It does not matter if you are using Pennzoil, Amsoil, Mobil 1 or whatever. If a problem developed and you had not changed oil for 15,000 miles, you could still be in trouble. What does it say in the owner's manual?

I don't know about anybody else here but when I buy a new car I follow what is stated in the owner's manual. Especially when it comes to oil changes. What is more important than an oil change?

Also, you need to be sure that your motor oil meets the new car warranty requirements. Maybe you better check. Not all motor oils do meet those requirements. Just because a motor oil is a synthetic motor oil does not mean that it meets the new car warranty requirements. Some Mobil 1 motor oils do not meet Ford requirements, for example. The motor oil must meet the vehicle requirements and it must be of the correct viscosity. If I buy a new car, I make sure the motor oil used is of the correct viscosity and meets all requirements.

When I buy a new car I care about my new car. I try to make sure it will run as long as possible. And I don't want to have to get into a fight with the dealership. I do not care about the 'motor oil Olympics.' I would rather have a new car running good than worry about bragging here that I drove my new car two years and 30,000 miles on one oil change. I don't have to impress anybody here. I will change oil according to the owner's manual. Motor oil is not that expensive. And it is cheaper than a new engine. And I don't want to fight with the new car dealership.


I agree Mystic. I'm also glad you took the time to read what I was saying. Sometimes the marketing of oil, leaves areas of gray. While under warranty it is best to follow the OM. Changing oil early isn't going to cause any potential warranty issues either. In fact there are some dealers that still advise changing oil at intervals shorter than what the OM or OLM suggests. That can be because they are aware of potential problems within the vehicle brands they sell since they service the vehicles on a daily basis. Then there is always the possibility for additional revenue. Still I'd be willing to bet they aren't recommending extending the OCI beyond what the OM or OLM says.

I remember the service department at a Honda dealer I worked for suggesting early transmission fluid changes on the Odyssey Mini vans, and suggesting extended warranties on them. They knew from first hand experience they had issues.

 

[Shannow]

Mobil (Oz) were always fanatical on their tech line that "use the service manual recommendations", until they realised that you were out of any sort of warranty, when they said "annual, and up to 40,000km" with M1.

Just about every reasonable UOA on the board could go beyond the change that was applied to it, and probably by quite a way...that's what makes Amsoil's advertorials so funny.

You can save time/money by changing your oil 25,000 miles or annually, versus
a) following the owner's manual; or
b) changing the oil at 4,311.222215 miles, which is the statistical mean of continental United States.

Truth be told:
* nearly any synthetic out there can last just as long as Amsoil;
* there's nothing special about Amsoil that makes it last longer than the other;
* others actually "meet" standards that Amsoil claims to "meet or exceed";
* if you double your OCI while under warranty, using either Amsoil's say so, or sound engineering judgement on oils meeting Long Life specs...you are largely on your own should your choice lead to a problem.

 

[TrevorS]

So there's a chance that Supertech synthetic is as good as Amsoil SS?

 

[Shannow]

I meant M1, Ultra, Castrol etc...wasn't clear 'though.

 

[fdcg27]

Amsoil's Signiture Series oils do have an unusually strong add pack.
They may also use a more costly basestock blend than is typical of OTS oils.
OTOH, there are some really good 10K+ UOAs from everything including M1, PP, PU, Edge and even G-Oil.
We have a couple of members here who come readily to mind who run 10K drains on synthetic oil, with one member using M1 exclusively and another using any syn oil.
The M1 guy has a couple of four cylinder Fords both of which have passed 100K.
The guy who uses any syn oil for 10-12K has more than 350K on his Lexus V-8, so maybe the any syn is good for 10-12K proposition is a reasonable one?
But then we have a mod here who ran 15K on one of the cheapest API spec dinos available and had good results to show for it.
I'm sure you're correct in writing that most of us never come close to the real service life of the oil we use.
It should be about time for DN to show up in this thread.

 

[Merkava_4]

It would probably be full of varnish at the end of 15,000 miles.

When oils start drying out from extended mileage, they start varnishing the engine.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It would probably be full of varnish at the end of 15,000 miles.

When oils start drying out from extended mileage, they start varnishing the engine.



Oil drying out,causing varnish?
You're going off the deep end here with your absurd posts about varnish and extended drain intervals.
I've never had varnish in any engine running 10k with a synthetic,none of them.
The only deposits I ever had on anything was ceratec leaving a super hard layer on the cams on my old 4.6 sohc.
Please if possible prove your theory that extended drains with a quality,long drain capable oil. I'd love to see any evidence using a long drain capable oil,except of course where the service is severe and the severe service schedule should be followed.
Absurd.

 

[TrevorS]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It would probably be full of varnish at the end of 15,000 miles.

When oils start drying out from extended mileage, they start varnishing the engine.



Oil drying out,causing varnish?
You're going off the deep end here with your absurd posts about varnish and extended drain intervals.
I've never had varnish in any engine running 10k with a synthetic,none of them.
The only deposits I ever had on anything was ceratec leaving a super hard layer on the cams on my old 4.6 sohc.
Please if possible prove your theory that extended drains with a quality,long drain capable oil. I'd love to see any evidence using a long drain capable oil,except of course where the service is severe and the severe service schedule should be followed.
Absurd.


Why accuse him of going off the deep end? dermapaint had a varnish issue with 3k mile intervals on (quality?) dino.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Amsoil's Signiture Series oils do have an unusually strong add pack.
They may also use a more costly basestock blend than is typical of OTS oils.
OTOH, there are some really good 10K+ UOAs from everything including M1, PP, PU, Edge and even G-Oil.
We have a couple of members here who come readily to mind who run 10K drains on synthetic oil, with one member using M1 exclusively and another using any syn oil.
The M1 guy has a couple of four cylinder Fords both of which have passed 100K.
The guy who uses any syn oil for 10-12K has more than 350K on his Lexus V-8, so maybe the any syn is good for 10-12K proposition is a reasonable one?
But then we have a mod here who ran 15K on one of the cheapest API spec dinos available and had good results to show for it.
I'm sure you're correct in writing that most of us never come close to the real service life of the oil we use.
It should be about time for DN to show up in this thread.


I was most impressed with FX and his 22000 mile run of AFE and his consistent 10k mile runs using conventional oils b
But according to merkava he'll have varnish.
Absurd.
I've learned a lot from the guys who provide data on their intervals. It shows me I'm seriously under utilizing my oil especially in the summer when all my mileage is highway.
In the winter the vehicles do idle to the extreme and I'm at 6000 miles on the charger using ultra and the oil isn't even black yet.
Most of us aren't using our oils to the fullest,which of course cost us more in the end. But to seriously believe that extended drains will inevitably cause varnish is absurd,unless the oil isn't long drain capable.
Match the product to the interval and rock on.

 

[TrevorS]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Amsoil's Signiture Series oils do have an unusually strong add pack.
They may also use a more costly basestock blend than is typical of OTS oils.
OTOH, there are some really good 10K+ UOAs from everything including M1, PP, PU, Edge and even G-Oil.
We have a couple of members here who come readily to mind who run 10K drains on synthetic oil, with one member using M1 exclusively and another using any syn oil.
The M1 guy has a couple of four cylinder Fords both of which have passed 100K.
The guy who uses any syn oil for 10-12K has more than 350K on his Lexus V-8, so maybe the any syn is good for 10-12K proposition is a reasonable one?
But then we have a mod here who ran 15K on one of the cheapest API spec dinos available and had good results to show for it.
I'm sure you're correct in writing that most of us never come close to the real service life of the oil we use.
It should be about time for DN to show up in this thread.


Apart from DN, the most impressive UOA I've seen recently is on an old Taurus with 11k miles Castrol Edge with Titanium 0w20 showing 7.9 TBN!

But clearly engine design has something to do with it too.

And maybe that Taurus will get varnish because it is Castrol after all

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: TrevorS
Why accuse him of going off the deep end? dermapaint had a varnish issue with 3k mile intervals on (quality?) dino.

Sounds like the issue was with his engine and not the oil or the interval.

 

[TrevorS]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
Why accuse him of going off the deep end? dermapaint had a varnish issue with 3k mile intervals on (quality?) dino.

Sounds like the issue was with his engine and not the oil or the interval.


I would agree with that assessment but I've seen dermapaint bring up the issue as an oil issue several times.

 

[ColdCanuk]

Just heard Amsoil's going up 7-9% in Canada because of our [censored] dollar. I believe March 1 is the new pricing date.

Just CANADA.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: ColdCanuk
Just heard Amsoil's going up 7-9% in Canada because of our [censored] dollar. I believe March 1 is the new pricing date.

Just CANADA.



Order it from Pablo here. He's a site sponsor and will take good care of you.
I find it funny that engine oil prices here are falling for the most part but amsoil is going up.
And the loonie will get up to par again by the end of the year and what,will amsoio lower their prices then? I doubt it.
If I was going to buy amsoil I'd buy it from Pablo. He'll give site members the best deal possible and then it helps the site too

 

[Nate1979]

Well, here is from my Warranty booklet from GM:

Maintenance
As the vehicle owner, you are responsible for the performance of the scheduled maintenance listed in your owner manual.
Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections, and recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in the owner manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good working condition.
Any damage caused by owner/lessee failure to follow scheduled
maintenance may not be covered by warranty.

Maintenance and Warranty Service Records
Retain receipts covering performance of regular maintenance. Receipts can be very
important if a question arises as to whether a malfunction is caused by
lack of maintenance or a defect in material or workmanship.
A “Maintenance Record” is provided in the maintenance schedule
section of the owner manual for recording services performed.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've never had varnish in any engine running 10k with a synthetic, none of them.


This thread is about 15k, not 10k. Although I would've made the same comment if it was 10k.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've never had varnish in any engine running 10k with a synthetic, none of them.


This thread is about 15k, not 10k. Although I would've made the same comment if it was 10k.

Huh.
I honestly missed that.

K. I need to amend my posts then.
At 15000 miles I don't trust any oil without at least some data like a used oil analysis to insure the oil is still serviceable.
I just got comfortable with 10000 mile drains using any oil.
When I first bought my 99 chev I was a devout amsoil guy but even then I was only going double the oil life monitor which is roughly 6000 miles(10000kms). When we put the new cam in after running Amsoil for 100000kms the inside of the engine was absolutely spotless. Like brand new type spotless,but again at the time I was a devout Amsoil guy and cost wasn't a factor nor a concern.
Now that today's oils have caught up(almost) to amsoil in quality I just can't justify the expense.

Here's the thing. Let's say amsoil can do the 25000 miles they claim. I'd then have to spend 40 bucks at 10000 miles,then another 40 at 15000 miles,then another 40 at 20000 miles,for a used oil analysis to see if the oil is still serviceable. Not to mention top ups.
Why not just spend that 40 bucks every 10000 miles and change the oil,and not spend it on used oil analysis to see if the oil is still good.

I am still a fan of Amsoil and I'd use it if it wasn't so costly however when I can get pp/qsud/castrol syntec and various other great syns at 30 bucks a jug tops,usually closer to 25 bucks,for the 5 litre jug,and any of them will run the 10000 miles I'm calling an interval then I just can't justify buying amsoil then getting used oil analysis done.
I really like their sae60 v-twin oil. Its fantastic in my Harley and to be honest I'll buy another case for summer use,but even there I can't run a 5000 mile interval. I'm just not comfortable with it in an air cooled engine.

Actually I think I'm going to bite the bullet as far as my Harley. I'm going to get a used oil analysis done on conventional rotella at a 2500 mile interval and the amsoil v-twin 60 grade at a 5000 mile interval and see what the lab says.
Instead of just guessing the 40 bucks I spend on the used oil analysis may save me money in the long run because I'll have actual data and can adjust my intervals based on the data acquired.

Sorry for the misunderstanding on my part merkava.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Order it from Pablo here. He's a site sponsor and will take good care of you.

Is Pablo allowed to ship to another country? I remember a while back Amsoil got strict on the whole international distribution thing...