Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 vs Mobil Delvac 75W90?

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Yota94

Joined
Jun 30, 2022
Messages
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I have a 2022 4Runner and I’m trying to choose between Amsoil Severe Gear and Mobil Delvac for the front and rear differentials. On one hand I want to use a premium diff fluid since I plan to keep this vehicle for as long as possible but on the other hand I like the idea that I can get a gallon jug of Mobil Delvac 75W90 for $40. I can change out the front and rear differential fluid with Mobil Delvac twice for the same cost as one change with Amsoil Severe Gear. I also like how Mobil Delvac doesn’t have LS additive since I have open differentials although I’m not sure how much that really matters.

What would you choose between these two options? I’ve always heard good things about Amsoil but how does Mobil Delvac compare to it? With my 4Runner being an off-road oriented vehicle, I’m thinking I might be better off with a cheaper diff fluid that can be changed more frequently in case I’m going through deep water and want to make sure I didn’t get any water intrusion into the axle.
 
Those are both good lubes.

However, you can expand your choices by using anything off this list;

Gear oil ... PRI QPL

This is a link to the PRI website. Under the Documents section, you'll find the QPL (Qualified Product List). Any lube on that list is licensed to the performance standard. They do a good job of updating the list; I believe it's done quarterly, so this link should be current as long as you don't...
bobistheoilguy.com

It's not like the Toyota diffs are known for problematic issues overall; generally very reliable units.
Hence, a super-duper lube isn't a must-have.
 
Mobil1 pour point wasn't as low as most other 75w-90 gear oils, not exactly a problem for me as I'm in new Mexico, your results may vary.
Mobil1 gear oil has one of the best antioxidant packages available anywhere.
Mobil1 shear resistance breakdown isn't as good as amsoil or othe oils, I figure a top up squirt of mobil1 90w-140 about once a year should make up for it.
Mobil1 is a lot cheaper than amsoil depending on how you get it.
 
My two cents - if you are going to change often (e.g., every 2 years or less) then a cheaper one. For what it's worth, I think M1 DelVac is a factory fill for Porsche 911 GT3 (manual)...and I am assuming your diffs call for GL5 without LSD.
 
Hoster said:
My two cents - if you are going to change often (e.g., every 2 years or less) then a cheaper one. For what it's worth, I think M1 DelVac is a factory fill for Porsche 911 GT3 (manual)...and I am assuming your diffs call for GL5 without LSD.
Click to expand...
Wow that’s pretty cool. Yes, GL5 without LSD. I think I’ll switch over to M1 DelVac next time I change my diff fluid. Seems like a solid no frills diff fluid and I like that I can get a gallon jug for $40.
 
Yota94 said:
Wow that’s pretty cool. Yes, GL5 without LSD. I think I’ll switch over to M1 DelVac next time I change my diff fluid. Seems like a solid no frills diff fluid and I like that I can get a gallon jug for $40.
Click to expand...
You are probably looking at Summit Racing site (as I have in the past :) )..for what it is worth, I think getting the 1 L / Qtr bottles may be better (slightly cheaper but you can keep the "unopened" ones a bit more fresh). FYI (and you probably know this already), I found more metal shavings than expected from our SUV and Subie OB (which is fine), during the first diff fluid change - I heard some people doing the first diff change earlier than the manual, then get on the factory recommended cycle (mine is 30k mi / 3 yrs). Good luck!
 
Either are fine. I'm using Redline gear oil in my 5th gen 4Runner, based on how it performs in the Chrisman 12.5 diff's I service regularly.

If water intrusion is a concern, I'd extend all the breathers up into the engine bay as high as possible. There are kits to make that easier.
 
Hoster said:
You are probably looking at Summit Racing site (as I have in the past :) )..for what it is worth, I think getting the 1 L / Qtr bottles may be better (slightly cheaper but you can keep the "unopened" ones a bit more fresh). FYI (and you probably know this already), I found more metal shavings than expected from our SUV and Subie OB (which is fine), during the first diff fluid change - I heard some people doing the first diff change earlier than the manual, then get on the factory recommended cycle (mine is 30k mi / 3 yrs). Good luck!
Click to expand...
That’s where I get Delvac 1 75W90 … used it for many years …
 
Can't really go wrong either way in my experience, but for a mostly RWD powertrain like the 4Runner, Amsoil SVG probably has an advantage in wear protection when used in the rear diff.
 
Before deciding on an optimal oil, how are you going to driving it? are you crossing streams in it? Is this a DD commuter? Are you towing anything - how much and how often?

does your front diff spin when it’s in 2wd or is partially engaged?
 
You spent probably north of $40k purchasing a vehicle you plan to keep "forever". Don't start thinking about how you can skimp on $40 every 2 years, that makes no sense to me.

I made a decision when I ordered my truck that it was going to have the best maintenance available. It costs what it costs, all of it is completely insignificant compared to the purchase price and the time I hope to have it around,.
 
hemioiler said:
You spent probably north of $40k purchasing a vehicle you plan to keep "forever". Don't start thinking about how you can skimp on $40 every 2 years, that makes no sense to me.

I made a decision when I ordered my truck that it was going to have the best maintenance available. It costs what it costs, all of it is completely insignificant compared to the purchase price and the time I hope to have it around,.
Click to expand...
Would you willingly pay excess money for the same performance?

What if this were car insurance?
If company A offered specified coverage at $500, and company B offered coverage at $400 for the EXACT same specified coverage, would you be better off paying for the more expensive product ???

Despite what most folks think, price is ALWAYS a factor. It may be a topic some choose to ignore, but for most folks (especially in today's inflationary world), money matters.

If product A performs to a required standard and costs Y dollars, and product B performs to that same spec and yet costs 35% less money, then why spend more money when you don't get more, and/or don't need more to safely maintain the vehicle? The assumption you imply in your statement above is that paying more will always get you more. Measured by what? What's important here? Do you care about the cost of the product, or the performance of the product? More adequately put, what does the vehicle think of the cost of the product? Are we to assume the vehicle knows? Do you believe that cost is more important than meeting a performance standard; a standard proven to be very strict and assure excellent service in use?

We're talking about a Toyota 4Runner diff here; these are not known to be problematic and generally are considered very robust. There is no need to overpay for an expensive product that would give no real-world advantage in terms of protection in daily use.


Again, all these products listed in this link pass the stringent performance based testing. (This test does not concern itself with cost, or contents of the bottle; only how the lubricant does in tough testing which replicates real-world stress).

Gear oil ... PRI QPL

This is a link to the PRI website. Under the Documents section, you'll find the QPL (Qualified Product List). Any lube on that list is licensed to the performance standard. They do a good job of updating the list; I believe it's done quarterly, so this link should be current as long as you don't...
bobistheoilguy.com
Look at the tests these lubes have to pass (see page 2)

First, assure the performance of the product is robust.
Then, pick a lube that meets that performance standard for the least amount of money.

Caveat Emptor; YMMV.
 
Last edited:
dnewton3 said:
Would you willingly pay excess money for the same performance?

What if this were car insurance?
If company A offered specified coverage at $500, and company B offered coverage at $400 for the EXACT same specified coverage, would you be better off paying for the more expensive product ???

Despite what most folks think, price is ALWAYS a factor. It may be a topic some choose to ignore, but for most folks (especially in today's inflationary world), money matters.
Click to expand...
My point was that using price as a filter/limit is the wrong approach. Ask what's the best product (regardless of price) and use it because even if it's $40 more its completely insignificant compared to the purchase price and intended length of ownership.

dnewton3 said:
If product A performs to a required standard and costs Y dollars, and product B performs to that same spec and yet costs 35% less money, then why spend more money when you don't get more, and/or don't need more to safely maintain the vehicle? The assumption you imply in your statement above is that paying more will always get you more.
Click to expand...

I think that's where the misunderstanding is and I probably could have written it better the first time; I'm not implying the more expensive one always is the better one, I'm simply saying ignore the cost and always get the better product.

In this case the consensus seems to be that amsoil is the better product, and if so the cost shouldn't be a factor in the decision to get it.
 
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