Amsoil EAO filter Microns

[Gary Allan]

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There is one rational reason for different bypass settings for specific applications from my point of view. If the OEM spec is to have the oil pump near or continually in the relief state (some engines start off at 45lb and stay at 45lbs ..they're just in varied states of relief) then a higher bypass setting would assure more filtered flow under that condition. There will be a higher potential for PSID due to viscosity.

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Hmmm...I can't see anyone designing an engine like this. I mean, your counting on a commodity part that's continually replaced, and thus susceptible to wrong part selection. I'd rather think they just like to cover transients where other designers may accept a little bypass.

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Sure ..mine was only an offered rationale. Something like an Audi/VW with their potential for extreme conditions.... Those are, with substantial distinction ..well above the range that we see most OEM specific bypass settings. One application may have a 16 psi bypass ..perhaps one a 20. Not that far out of bounds with the upper end of Purolators standard bypass. My observations that the PSID is the highest when the pressure/flow output of the pump is out of alignment (xflow to engine y flow to relief) would tend to leave the higher bypass setting applications in bypass less often where pump output and engine flow are not matched. This would happen, in my whacked sensible view (an oxymoron?) in pushrod engines ..where the pump volume may not be directly related to the relief setting. The relief setting may be limited to the long term sustainable stress on the distributor drive ..while volume may be taking long term needs into account. Jeep inlines all have the same OEM MAX relief setting. 75lbs (assumed stress limits of the drive) ..but produced pressures can range anywhere from 13-75 (with qualifications for rpm/temp/etc).

Just to give an example ..and it's totally contrived since I'm not running an OEM pump, my wife's oil pump is in relief with anything over a 20 weight off idle hot. So that means that I'm in various states of elevated PSID due to viscosity 24/7 off idle. Higher when cold (and compounded by visc between 30/40/etc)..reducing as the oil warms. If the threshold is low enough and the viscosity high enough ..I'll have a much higher potential for filter bypass.

You don't see it often ..and, admittedly, I haven't seen it in awhile..but there were/are some generic pushrods that just had a static oil pressure.

Perhaps it would be wiser to state it the other way around. If you've got an engine where the hot normalized pressure the the max cold pressure are very close to one another under most conditions ..the higher the bypass valve setting ..the less likely you are to be in bypass ...

..and leave it at that. The rest is my speculation on the given reasons working "backwards" from observations.

 

[cmhj]

We had another morning where it was slightly below zero. My car had sat for 5 days and thought this might be another fair/good test to see if the cold start clatter was gone after switching the Pure One filter with the AEO filter.

Happy to state that after hitting the key there was no abnormal sounds.

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My engine used to make some clatter at startup. I have used the pure one filter in the past and until the engine warmed up, there was a definite "clatter" noise. Now with the new Amsoil filter, it's all but gone. Oil pressure is almost instantaneous and it is difficult to even hear the engine running!

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Harry,

Curiosity killed the cat. My 05 Vibe with 5W-30 Mobil 1 and an over sized pure one filter just had a "clatter" sound in -5F weather the other morning.

Since I only had about 2K on the OC I said screw it, swung right into my garage and spun my Amsoil filter, which I prefilled as much as possible and let the car sit for an hour. When I hit the key there was no clatter at all.

The next day it was about zero. I hit the key and no clatter at all.

Even though I'm sold on Amsoil filters, this unscientific experiment was enough for me.

Amsoil all the way!

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[harry j]

I'm back for now, my computer is in the repair shop. To answer your question 427ZO6, I originally inquired about the now obsolete SDF20 and SDF36. The bypass setting was higher in the SDF20 than the SDF36. I assumed (incorrectly)that the Eao filters had the same values. Thankyou for the spec sheet. I will gladly use the Eao20, it is a great filter.

 

[harry j]

cmhj,
Do you plan to go two oil change intervals on the same filter? I am on the third change with the same filter, the oil seems to get cleaner each time. As some have pointed out, a filter gets more efficient with use. I believe the Eao filter approaches the filtering ability of a bypass setup.

 

[cmhj]

Harry,

Yes, however, I'll explain a few things when I get some time.

 

[cmhj]

Harry,

Since I'm currently using group III synthetic & my mileage averages 10K annual with both cars, not counting a couple old toys that normally get 1K annual at most, odds are I'll stay with twice a year "early spring and late fall" OCIs. If I stay with this OCI the AEO filter will stay on for a year or 2 OCIs but will probably get dumped in between.

Since the Vibe is part way thru it's winter blend now and a trip to Wis. in a few weeks will give me enough mileage to do an OC, the summer brew will go in and the current filter will stay on but get dumped and re-installed. Then this fall the EAO will get replaced.

FWIW/FYI

I run 5W-30 in the summer on my 05 Vibe and 5W-20 in the winter.

On the wifes 06.5 Kia with the 2.4L dual overhead cam I ran 5W-20 last fall & this winter but will probably mix in one qt. of 5W-30 for the spring OC.

 

[harry j]

cmhj,
Twice a year changes as you describe should serve you well. Dumping the Eao filter sounds like a good idea, can you get most of the old oil out? Since it really doesn't get so cold in south Florida, I use the 0W-30 oil year round. I just change the oil but don't touch the filter, perhaps I should consider dumping it as you do.

 

[cmhj]

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cmhj,
Dumping the Eao filter sounds like a good idea, can you get most of the old oil out?

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Without measuring drop for drop IMO 60-70% can be drained if given 5 min. or so and if warm.

IMO it's a good practice but depending on the mileage between OCs not always necessary.

Part of the reason I dump the filter out is due to the small sump size of 4Qts. total with filter on the Vibe.

 

[cmhj]

Harry,

Should add:

I'd like to run 0W-30 in all my vehicles as IMO from having built and raced several engines over the years this would be an overall decent "all season" oil for street/highway useage in most climates.

However, due to warranty considerations on 2 vehicles, which are my highest oil useages & due to "proof of purchase" I work with multiple grades.

 

[harry j]

Atta boy cmhj, don't give the warranty dudes any wiggle room! Good thing you can use any filter you want however..
what with a factory filter being effective at 40 microns absolute...makes the Eao at 15 microns look awesome.

 

[cmhj]

Ya' Harry, as a former business owner that wrote warranty claims for over 20 years it's realized there's a certain amount of "fudging" you can do. But in the long run keeping it rather close to the vest is the best policy.

 

[harry j]

cmhj,
Do you have any idea how efficient the Eao is at 10 microns?
I wonder why Amsoil stopped at 15 microns absolute when they could have gone a bit lower. It may be apples to oranges, but their air filter will filter pretty efficiently at .8 microns, is this a different media?

 

[harry j]

I found a web site that listed 4 or 5 filters that showed that most standard filters only manage a 20% efficiency at 10 microns. I have been unable to find the site again but will keep looking.

 

[cmhj]

No clue Harry.

Apples & oranges? Maybe, should add I've never used their air filters.

All I can say is my past experience with EAO filters plus nearly everything ever made has shown me there's no overall substitute short of maybe the Mobil 1 filter, which IMO will come close. If I were to speculate, at 10 microns there's probably nothing made, short of spending big bucks, that will beat it.

Putting that Pure One on my Vibe, in hindsight, was kinda' dumb but I do like to experiment plus I was in a hurry and didn't have an EAO filter on my shelf.

 

[cmhj]

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I am on the third change with the same filter, the oil seems to get cleaner each time.

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Curiosity just got the better of me. I have about 400 miles on the new EAO filter with about 2,300 miles on the current fill of Mobil 1, which BTW the next fill(s) will be with Amsoil XLF.

Regardless, I did a fast check on my vehicle and without a doubt the oil is clearer now then when I changed from the Pureone filter.

Amsoil all the way!

 

[harry j]

It's true cmhj, you know that if the Eao filter has an absolute efficiency of 15 microns, it gets a lot of the particles at a smaller size too. Nobody has done a test as far as I know, but the filter gets more efficient with use and it is amazing to see this in practice.

 

[harry j]

I considered a bypass filter setup for my Civic, but the problem is where to place it. With the advent of the Eao, it seems that a bypass system is no longer necessary.

 

[harry j]

What really intrigues me is that the Eao will not go into bypass as easily as the competing filters, so I know the oil will be filtered down to a smaller micron level and with greater consistancy.

 

[harry j]

These values were taken from Dave Manns web site,

Fram PH8A 10% at 12u 78% at 20u
AC PF-2 10% at 4.5u 67% at 20u
Purolator per-1 10% at 14u 42% at 20u
Ford Fl-1 10% at 12u 33% at 20u


Compare these efficiencies to the Eao

Eao 50% at 7u 98.7% @ 15microns

 

[harry j]

Fram PH8A.......10% @ 12u.....78% @ 20u
AC PF-2.........10% @ 4.5u....67% @ 20u
Purolator PER-1.10% @ 14u.....42% @ 20u
Ford FL-1.......10% @ 12u.....33% @ 20u
Eao.............50% @ 7u.....98.7% 15u