That is what I was told. I also saw it mentioned on an Auto AC repair forum that I go to where I also posed this same question. Whether it is actually the case, I don't know.OMG! SERIOUSLY? The plot thickens!
AC quit on 2017 F150.
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Yes this can be TRUE, depending on the application.OMG! SERIOUSLY? The plot thickens!
It's all about making DIY repairs nearly impossible, or very difficult and or expensive if you need a very specific OEM scan tool to do it.
It's becoming more and more apparent as time goes by that if you have any interest in DIY shade tree repairs you won't be buying new much longer.
This is also going to backfire on manufactures as people start staying away in droves and buying older used cars or keeping older cars.
Heck if I knew the future thirty or forty years ago I would have collected investment money to buy large lots of brand new 1980s and 1990s cars and sell them as new today.
I haven't planned on ever buying another new vehicle again. My 07 F150 is in immaculate condition, and I plan on keeping it that way.
Just recently my dad went into a nursing facility. I inherited his 98 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab truck. It has 73K miles on it, but needs some "ADJUSTMENTS." His 57 Plymouth is up for grabs between my brother and I.
.The “wet” appearance (likely) means the front seal blew out of 5he compressor, that’s refrigeration oil. Surprised R1234yf is so hard to get serviced, adapters are made to connect to a standard gauge set, including the left handed tank threads. Sure won‘t have to worry about recovering the old gas, it’s gone! Refrigerant is stupid expensive, though, over $50/pound!
The machines are a real pain compared to the older ones. It has its own analyzer built in. If it gets a contaminated batch it locks the matching out until robinair gets around to coming to the shop and resetting it which may take weeks. Many shops including me don't want to hassle that as well as the service charge.
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You got that right... My car is 13 years old and the AC still works good. 342,000+ miles too.
AC not has strong as new but it still keeps me cool when it is 90+ degrees out.
Interesting thread. Just took the CRV in today to the dealer under warranty bc the AC was doing a ****ty job. The drivers side vents were like 15-20* warmer and it would take 5-10 mins to notice a difference when starting the car. They said the tech didn’t find a leak but it was low on refrigerant so they pulled vacuum, didn’t find any leaks, and filled it up to factory specs and measured 42* at the vents. I asked the service advisor if there’s no leak, how’s it low? She goes, not sure, sometimes it can come low from the factory. Lol
Yes, a long time. LOLOff subject, but you've been here at BITOG for awhile now. 8 months longer than me.
I misspoke about the wet appearance. When I got to look at it today a lot closer, there was nothing wet, just what looked like chewed up black rubber stuff which was also coming out of the clutch. It was more sticky than anything.
Me either. I also have a 98 Chevy Silverado ext cab 4x4 that I bought new that only has 140,000 miles on it as well as a 98 Silverado 1 ton 4x4 with 121,000 miles on it. I figure I can make these to last for many more years along with my other vehicles.I haven't planned on ever buying another new vehicle again. My 07 F150 is in immaculate condition, and I plan on keeping it that way.
Just recently my dad went into a nursing facility. I inherited his 98 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab truck. It has 73K miles on it, but needs some "ADJUSTMENTS." His 57 Plymouth is up for grabs between my brother and I.
I've repaired and recharged many 134 vehicles and while the vacuum will pull in a lot of the initial charge, I have never found that the whole charge will go into the system without the compressor running at some point. I use a refrigerant scale with 30 lb tanks that sounds an alarm when the correct amount is introduced into the system.
There is no such thing as a perfectly sealed system. It has hoses,orings, mechanical seals etc and will lost a small amount. Most lose about 1oz a year. Some more,others less.
Just a thought for the DIY crowd here. You can purchase 8oz cans of 1234yf at autoparts stores. "IF" you can source the compressor, the job can be done DIY. I've never replaced one of these compressors, so I can't share any tricks. However, having worked on all sorts of sealed industrial systems, I can say that disassembly, sealing open ports if the system is open for a while, installing new parts, pulling a vacuum, making sure it holds and servicing then checking for leaks is pretty much standard practice. No real magic there.
HOWEVER, When some compressors designs "pop" (fail catastrophically), they send debris backwards into the system and into the evaporator. This requires a detailed cleaning with fluids and compressed air. I made a tool to clean my F150 evap. Took a full day to flush it out. But I got it right, because it's been 100% for years now.
The debris:
The tool to flush it out: (used solvents, and compressed air)
HOWEVER, When some compressors designs "pop" (fail catastrophically), they send debris backwards into the system and into the evaporator. This requires a detailed cleaning with fluids and compressed air. I made a tool to clean my F150 evap. Took a full day to flush it out. But I got it right, because it's been 100% for years now.
The debris:
The tool to flush it out: (used solvents, and compressed air)
What year do you believe this is again? The 22 models will be out in 90 days.
On the other hand, the AC compressor in my 98 F150 is original, as is the water pump, alternator and PS pump.
Sure, but it's less than 2 years old. They put a lot more than 2oz back into the system. lol
Called Ford corporate today and spoke with a woman who said she would call the dealer and talk to them. She took down my number but I never heard back from her today. We will see if she calls tomorrow.
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Don't be surprised if it takes a few days or so, did you set up a ticket number for a reference? Always get a ticket or job number so you can track what is going on and the rep you speak to can quickly pull up your case.
Remember that it is ultimately the manufacturer , NOT the dealer that will decide whether or not a goodwill repair will be offered.
Make sure you do NOT give up easily, persist because frankly in your case you are clearly deserving of a mfr repair due to the circumstances.
Let them know that it appears there is a manufacturing defect in the compressor and that it doesn't appear to be limited to just your vehicle but possibly many other similar compressors found on your vehicle.
