96 Ford Bronco Oil Choice

[Bronco1]

I'm picking up a 96 Ford Bronco from a buddy of mine who bought it to tow behind his Class A. It's too heavy for the motorhome to tow so he's getting rid of it. It's got 258k miles with no visible leaks on the 5.0 engine and a 5 speed manual trans. Didn't appear to be burning oil. I have no idea what oil they were using since my buddy's only had it for a month. I was looking at running either 5w-30 Motorcraft Synthetic blend or High Mileage Mobil 1 with a Fram Ultra filter. I live at 8,500' in the Colorado Rockies and we get some -0 temps here in the winter. I was thinking about doing an initial 2k change with a Motorcraft FLA-1 to try to clean out any sludge. I'd appreciate any input you folks would care to send my way.

Thanks!

 

[aquariuscsm]

The Motorcraft as far as I know can be had really cheap at Walmart in 5 quart jugs along with Motorcraft filters.

 

[53' Stude]

MC blend at Wal Mart isnt cheap anymore as it's $18.97 for a 5quart jug

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: car51
MC blend at Wal Mart isnt cheap anymore as it's $18.97 for a 5quart jug


Just like Walmart's groceries. Getting expensive!!

 

[gilbertsta]

I believe you can strain the current oil thru a fine mess strainer. Drop a couple of magnets into the strainer before using it, that will take out any metal shavings. Smell the oil, if it isn't burnt just pour it back in and I highly recommend adding an additive Like a "STP" to prevent any smoke coming thru the exaust.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: gilbertsta
I believe you can strain the current oil thru a fine mess strainer. Drop a couple of magnets into the strainer before using it, that will take out any metal shavings. Smell the oil, if it isn't burnt just pour it back in and I highly recommend adding an additive Like a "STP" to prevent any smoke coming thru the exaust.


No need to use STP in anything. It's just a diluted thickener there's more additives in Supertech oils and he doesn't need any high viscosity items in that climate.


Personally I wouldn't assume there's any sludge issue and I would use a synthetic high mileage like Valvoline. If your starts didn't get so cold regular Maxlife 5w30 is what I would recommend. It can handle it but it gets pretty thick below 0

 

[Kuato]

I like the idea of a quick 2k interval to clean. Maybe more than one.

Since you like the MC, maybe go with that first and see if there is any leakage.

Ultra for at least 10k after the initial cleanup?

 

[OVERKILL]

Being a low output roller 302, its requirements aren't extraordinary. I'd run AFE 0w-30 (based on the temperatures you've noted) with the filter you've mentioned (FRAM Ultra) at a 7,500 mile interval. I've owned many 302's and while I generally like a 0w-40 in them, being a stock roller lopo, the 0w-30 would be more than adequate.

 

[MurrcaMAL]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: car51
MC blend at Wal Mart isnt cheap anymore as it's $18.97 for a 5quart jug


Just like Walmart's groceries. Getting expensive!!


But I bet you get that good oil in your rig just the same, anyways.

OP: You know what oil I would recommend and filter.

 

[Rolla07]

Pyb on 3k mile intervals to clean it up. Not sure its worth going syn or semi syn on a car that old. Id run pyb and check for leaks etc and see if any sludge in oil filter. Eventually up interval to 5 and then 7500 miles if you choose to.

 

[crazyoildude]

Motorcraft is not cheap at wal mart anymore... Use the Mobil 1 high mileage.. Mobil 1 is Great oil.. Also you could try Mobil Super High Mileage that is also a very very good oil..We use a lot of it lately.

 

[Burd]

My beaters, I dump any oils I have in the garag, is stinks these days, you cand buy a gallon anymore, it's like 1.5 gallons. What's up with that? I go with a party mix in my beater.

 

[Bronco1]

Thanks for the input all!

 

[53' Stude]

My car gets clearance oil. It is good too as most was $2 a quart some was $1 a quart and 5 quart jugs were $8 and $10 each

 

[BrocLuno]

1996 is Best Year - well done

As a pretty much die-hard Big Bronco guy (best ride off road and tightest turning circle

), I have experience with that set-up. With that many miles you'll need to keep on top of the oil. It will use a bit. Not death smoke, but a bit here and there.

For a tow-behind he should look at the last year Bronco II. Nice V6 and 5 speed and lots lighter

Anyway about your oil, the motor will tell you on the first cold start after sitting for a few days. If it's too thin, it'll rattle on cold start for 30 seconds or so. Over 200,000 on an SBF, I run HDEO 15W-40. It's easily good down to 0*F for cold start. If it's colder there often in your part of CO, 10W-30 Delo 400 will work fine. The bearings are loose enough that the drag is not that high.

The deal with these trucks is the wiring is getting old. It has "crevice corrosion" under all the contacts. Especially the ground. Crawl under there and look where Ford put it. On the engine block right above the cross-member. It can't be serviced easily so it never is...

To alleviate the issues, I run a new supplementary ground lead with soldered lugs from the Neg (-) pinch bolt on the battery to the alternator mount. this will give the regulator a better reference signal and it will charge better.

I also add some #8 wire with soldered lugs from that same bolt on the battery to the 6mm bolt hole on the radiator support right there. That will make the headlights work better.

From the 6mm bolt hole a few inches away, I run a new #8 with soldered lugs to the passenger side hood hinge bolt. Put never seize on the threads when you re-insert. That will make the ECU much happier. It will now have a new zero reference so all the controls and sensors will be much more effective. The engine will start easier, high idle correctly, and give better mileage. Your dash will work better too

Renew the braided strap from the intake to the fire-wall too. It will help a lot.

Big warning - NEVER use an aftermarket starter solenoid. I did ind nearly burned down the Costco Gas Station when it welded and kept going till the starter motor and the wiring went...

Use only Motorcraft solenoids. Tons of this on the net which I read after the incident ...

Two forums that will help are Full Sized Bronco and the Ford Truck forum in the Big Bronco sub-forum.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/

 

[Bronco1]

Thanks Brocluno! Yeah, my buddy's looking for a Bronco II or Ranger now

I never thought about using HDEO. It doesn't seem to be a problem with the owner's manual recommendation except they recommend 10w-30 or 5w-30 for colder areas like mine. They only say to avoid "...Oils labeled API SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF or SG". It's been below 0 a few times this week already. I saw Shell T-6 comes in a 5w-40. Maybe that's an option?

Thanks for the rest of the info, too!

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: Bronco1
Thanks Brocluno! Yeah, my buddy's looking for a Bronco II or Ranger now

I never thought about using HDEO. It doesn't seem to be a problem with the owner's manual recommendation except they recommend 10w-30 or 5w-30 for colder areas like mine. They only say to avoid "...Oils labeled API SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF or SG". It's been below 0 a few times this week already. I saw Shell T-6 comes in a 5w-40. Maybe that's an option?

Thanks for the rest of the info, too!

10w-30 is typically thinner than a 5w-40, even though it's 5w. T6 is a solid oil and so is M1 0w-40, castrol 0w-40.

We always ran 10w-30 in them when I was growing up and never had an issue even when subzero.

 

[OVERKILL]

-4F is -20C, which in turn is getting pretty close to the cranking limit for the 15w-xx designation, which is -25C (-13F). In the GWN, if I'm looking for something with added AW protection (HDEO or similar) then I'll use a 5w-40 or 0w-40, I've had excellent results with both in many a 302, including a number of built ones.

However, as I noted earlier, your stock roller 302 is not a demanding application and calls for an xW-30. AFE 0w-30 would be an excellent choice with exception cold temperature performance, which is likely overkill, but if you can get it on sale, why not right?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: Bronco1
Thanks Brocluno! Yeah, my buddy's looking for a Bronco II or Ranger now

I never thought about using HDEO. It doesn't seem to be a problem with the owner's manual recommendation except they recommend 10w-30 or 5w-30 for colder areas like mine. They only say to avoid "...Oils labeled API SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF or SG". It's been below 0 a few times this week already. I saw Shell T-6 comes in a 5w-40. Maybe that's an option?

Thanks for the rest of the info, too!

10w-30 is typically thinner than a 5w-40, even though it's 5w. T6 is a solid oil and so is M1 0w-40, castrol 0w-40.

We always ran 10w-30 in them when I was growing up and never had an issue even when subzero.


Yes, 10w-30's are, by virtue of being xW-30's, thinner than an xW-40. However the 5w-40 will have better cold temperature performance, as it has to in order to obtain the 5W-xx designation.

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: Bronco1
Thanks Brocluno! Yeah, my buddy's looking for a Bronco II or Ranger now

I never thought about using HDEO. It doesn't seem to be a problem with the owner's manual recommendation except they recommend 10w-30 or 5w-30 for colder areas like mine. They only say to avoid "...Oils labeled API SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF or SG". It's been below 0 a few times this week already. I saw Shell T-6 comes in a 5w-40. Maybe that's an option?

Thanks for the rest of the info, too!

10w-30 is typically thinner than a 5w-40, even though it's 5w. T6 is a solid oil and so is M1 0w-40, castrol 0w-40.

We always ran 10w-30 in them when I was growing up and never had an issue even when subzero.


Yes, 10w-30's are, by virtue of being xW-30's, thinner than an xW-40. However the 5w-40 will have better cold temperature performance, as it has to in order to obtain the 5W-xx designation.


My point being, that when looking at viscositiy, a 10w30 will be thinner than a 5w-40 at ambient temps until
Extreme cold temperatures, which he does not appear to be facing. Also need to factor in that thE HTHS will mean that the 40w will inheriently thicker at all temps, which is different than flow properties.