Why disconnect the temp gauge switch ? That was never explained in the first post.
91 Honda Civic Si (1.6L) head gasket?
- Thread starter Gito
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Well - it's time to do a full compression test on the engine before doing cylinder head work. 500,000 miles is a long ways to go on an engine. No point in rebuilding the cylinder head if the short block is shot. Might as well rebuild the whole engine.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Well - it's time to do a full compression test on the engine before doing cylinder head work. 500,000 miles is a long ways to go on an engine. No point in rebuilding the cylinder head if the short block is shot. Might as well rebuild the whole engine.
#1 spark plug is seized. If I force it out I know that I'm going to damage the spark plug threads.
I might try to soak the threads with lubricant and slowly try to back up the spark plug.
I also have to replace the valve stem seals. I know that removing the head would be a good time to take care of all of the seals but I've been told by many that if I remove the head and replace the gasket, I will be increasing the compression to where the bottom end just might not be able to handle it.
Others have also indicated that completely removing the original head gasket from the head is a pain in the rear. I have heard that removing the head and taking it to a shop is a better choice. The old head gasket will be milled off.
Have never tackled a job like this so I'm trying to avoid removing the head if not needed.
Best bet for me is to probably try to somehow check compression and then go from there.
Well - it's time to do a full compression test on the engine before doing cylinder head work. 500,000 miles is a long ways to go on an engine. No point in rebuilding the cylinder head if the short block is shot. Might as well rebuild the whole engine.
#1 spark plug is seized. If I force it out I know that I'm going to damage the spark plug threads.
I might try to soak the threads with lubricant and slowly try to back up the spark plug.
I also have to replace the valve stem seals. I know that removing the head would be a good time to take care of all of the seals but I've been told by many that if I remove the head and replace the gasket, I will be increasing the compression to where the bottom end just might not be able to handle it.
Others have also indicated that completely removing the original head gasket from the head is a pain in the rear. I have heard that removing the head and taking it to a shop is a better choice. The old head gasket will be milled off.
Have never tackled a job like this so I'm trying to avoid removing the head if not needed.
Best bet for me is to probably try to somehow check compression and then go from there.
If it's not overheating, keep driving and keep the oil full. It's not worth doing anything major to this engine until you're ready to rebuild or replace the whole thing.
The advice about "too much compression" is wrong. There is no such connection. What will happen is that you do a bunch of stuff to the head, only to find out, not unexpectedly, that the rings are worn out from 500,000 miles.
The advice about "too much compression" is wrong. There is no such connection. What will happen is that you do a bunch of stuff to the head, only to find out, not unexpectedly, that the rings are worn out from 500,000 miles.
Yes, it can be done indeed (manually, by hand).
I have done small suzuki 3cyl heads with a big wide Nicolson file (bought from railway supplier shop here locally), and had done similar with a big flat piece of glass and lots of wet-n-dry sandpaper with progressive grades. Takes lots of time and patience to get it done.
I don't do that anymore, citing the time involved. Simply arrange a time with local machine shop, put it on their jig and have it down in and hour.
There you have it.
Q.
I have done small suzuki 3cyl heads with a big wide Nicolson file (bought from railway supplier shop here locally), and had done similar with a big flat piece of glass and lots of wet-n-dry sandpaper with progressive grades. Takes lots of time and patience to get it done.
I don't do that anymore, citing the time involved. Simply arrange a time with local machine shop, put it on their jig and have it down in and hour.
There you have it.
Q.
Originally Posted By: Gito
Anyone know how many miles the bottom end can get?
These cars are solid and engines on the accords have easily gone 600k without any work.
Agree with Chris142's comment: you must do both the top-end and the bottom-end.
Granted that there's no seizure or oil-related overheating of the bottom end (and you are willing to throw in a new set of con rods). These engine's bottom end is fairly strong, if you are not "pushing" it for horsepower.
Because it's a full-alloy block, you must send both the head and the block to a shop to get skim off a few thou just to ensure the head-gasket mating surface is flat and true.
If you are to rebuild the bottom end, new con-rod set (to minimise the possibility of throwing a rod after the rebuild), new bearings, and oversized piston and ring sets will be in order (make sure you get a shop to do the cylinders for you).
A std sized re-ring job will not do in this case.
Q.
Anyone know how many miles the bottom end can get?
These cars are solid and engines on the accords have easily gone 600k without any work.
Agree with Chris142's comment: you must do both the top-end and the bottom-end.
Granted that there's no seizure or oil-related overheating of the bottom end (and you are willing to throw in a new set of con rods). These engine's bottom end is fairly strong, if you are not "pushing" it for horsepower.
Because it's a full-alloy block, you must send both the head and the block to a shop to get skim off a few thou just to ensure the head-gasket mating surface is flat and true.
If you are to rebuild the bottom end, new con-rod set (to minimise the possibility of throwing a rod after the rebuild), new bearings, and oversized piston and ring sets will be in order (make sure you get a shop to do the cylinders for you).
A std sized re-ring job will not do in this case.
Q.
I though usually the head warp way before the block so if you catch it in time flattened the head is good enough (you still have to measure the bottom).
I also heard you dont machine anymore but just "straighten it out" with a jig.
I also heard you dont machine anymore but just "straighten it out" with a jig.
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