6500 watt portable generators:

[cronk]

Generac is a decent generator, but in my experience, parts are expensive.

I would recommend Champion Power Equipment. They have been around for a while now and have gained quite a following in the RV community.
I own 2, a 3500w running/4000w surge open frame unit, and a 2000w inverter. Both run flawlessly, usually start on the 1st or 2nd pull.
Parts are inexpensive also, and stocked and shipped from Champions headquarters in California.

Camping world, Tractor Supply, and Costco carry some models, Amazon and Supergen Products sell them online for good prices.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
You should be more than fine with that unit, but if you don't mind me asking, why so large? Electric water heat perhaps? Hoping to start a window air conditioner?

I use a Champion 3500 watt unit to power all of my essential circuits, but then I have gas on the stove and hot water heater. Both of those items are still on essential circuits, because both rely upon electric ingnitors. My gas furnace is also considered an essential circuit, and I have run the heat with a power outage. I've also run the dishwasher with heated dry cycle during a power outage.

The outlet in the bathroom where the Misses plugs in her hair dryer is also considered an essential circuit. Some of you will get that; the rest of you probably aren't married!


If you have a water pump for your well, you need at least 5000 running watts, maybe 6500 running watts.

 

[Donald]

Generac has three quality levels I believe. At least of portable generators.

 

[Colt45ws]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
You should be more than fine with that unit, but if you don't mind me asking, why so large? Electric water heat perhaps? Hoping to start a window air conditioner?

I use a Champion 3500 watt unit to power all of my essential circuits, but then I have gas on the stove and hot water heater. Both of those items are still on essential circuits, because both rely upon electric ingnitors. My gas furnace is also considered an essential circuit, and I have run the heat with a power outage. I've also run the dishwasher with heated dry cycle during a power outage.

The outlet in the bathroom where the Misses plugs in her hair dryer is also considered an essential circuit. Some of you will get that; the rest of you probably aren't married!


If you have a water pump for your well, you need at least 5000 running watts, maybe 6500 running watts.


>You only need 3000 watts
>extensive list of gas appliances that draw very little electrical power.

Unfortunately my house is all electric, so I bought a 5k generator and would like to have 7500 or more. Optimally if I had money I would like to have a 15k so I can run the electric furnace if I have to, as thats 10kw in the heating grid alone, plus the blower draw.
At least with my 5k, I could run a space heater or two as long as I mind other power usage and three in an emergency (ie nothing else running)

 

[Al]

Most people hve no clue on the amount of fuel these things take....one quart/hour per kw...do the math. I have a nephew who just ran out and boutht a 6500 wattt unit so he could run most things in his house. I told him to give me a call before he sized it..lol

anyway I bought a 1500 watt Wen from Amazon for 180 bucks. Weighs 50 pounds. I test it several times a year at 1200 watts for half an hour. It will run lights and computer in my addition where my propane stove is located. I highly recommend this unit.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56180-Startin...mall+generators

 

[cronk]

Originally Posted By: Al
Most people hve no clue on the amount of fuel these things take....one quart/hour per kw...do the math. I have a nephew who just ran out and boutht a 6500 wattt unit so he could run most things in his house. I told him to give me a call before he sized it..lol

anyway I bought a 1500 watt Wen from Amazon for 180 bucks. Weighs 50 pounds. I test it several times a year at 1200 watts for half an hour. It will run lights and computer in my addition where my propane stove is located. I highly recommend this unit.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56180-Startin...mall+generators


Doesn't do much good to have lights and a computer if all the meat in your freezer is thawing or your furnace blower wont run.
Different people have different needs.

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: cronk
Originally Posted By: Al
Most people hve no clue on the amount of fuel these things take....one quart/hour per kw...do the math. I have a nephew who just ran out and boutht a 6500 wattt unit so he could run most things in his house. I told him to give me a call before he sized it..lol

anyway I bought a 1500 watt Wen from Amazon for 180 bucks. Weighs 50 pounds. I test it several times a year at 1200 watts for half an hour. It will run lights and computer in my addition where my propane stove is located. I highly recommend this unit.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56180-Startin...mall+generators


Doesn't do much good to have lights and a computer if all the meat in your freezer is thawing or your furnace blower wont run.
Different people have different needs.

True. I can easily run a fridge periodicallyt and most people could too. Fridges and freezers these days are oly a few hundred watts.The total contents of our freezer is probably 30 bucks..but again..that's just me.

Hopefully folks that need 100KW+ pwr day will have 25+ gallons of gasoline (per day) available

 

[Astro_Guy]

Originally Posted By: cronk
Doesn't do much good to have lights and a computer if all the meat in your freezer is thawing or your furnace blower wont run. Different people have different needs.

Agreed, but I think the point of that post was that people should do a load calculation before purchasing a generator.

For what it is worth, my portable Champion 3500 watt / 4000 watt peak gets connected via an outdoor outlet to a ten circuit manual transfer switch. That wasn't a typo, it connects to ten circuits. Some of these are highly intermittent, including the garage door opener, the dishwasher, and the bathroom outlet where the Misses runs her hair drier. The larger near continuous loads include two refrigerators and a chest freezer. Our gas fired water heater and furnace, both with electric ingnitors and blowers, are also backed up with the generator. Other circuits cover lighting, the network infrastructure, and several PCs.

During extended outages we also run a heavy extension cord over to the neighbor's house where they connect their refrigerator and possibly a few lights. All of this is possible with a humble 3500 watts, but we do not have a water pump or electric water heater, nor do we make any attempt to run air conditioning during a power outage. If money were of no concern, I would install a 10,000 watt stationary liquid cooled diesel powered generator with a full automatic service entrance transfer switch and just be done with it.

 

[andyd]

With a supreme effort, I could get my 5kw Coleman going and set up to run the house adequately. The well pump, and the 'fridge and freezer. I keep putting off spending the money on a better unit. Meantime, the power companies have merged and the latest, Eversource has made a considerable improvement to the local grid. Power losses are less frequent and shorter.

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: cronk
Doesn't do much good to have lights and a computer if all the meat in your freezer is thawing or your furnace blower wont run. Different people have different needs.

Agreed, but I think the point of that post was that people should do a load calculation before purchasing a generator.
During extended outages we also run a heavy extension cord over to the neighbor's house where they connect their refrigerator and possibly a few lights. All of this is possible with a humble 3500 watts,

Exactly.

I no longer connect to my junction box.I have 2 50 ft. extension cords that I run from the generator into my rec room which is actually isolable from the rest of my house. IO have not needed this Generator but as I mentioned, load it up periodically and actually run the cables ionto the rec room. If there is an emergency its a well rehearsed drill to do without the grid.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: cronk
Doesn't do much good to have lights and a computer if all the meat in your freezer is thawing or your furnace blower wont run. Different people have different needs.

Agreed, but I think the point of that post was that people should do a load calculation before purchasing a generator.

For what it is worth, my portable Champion 3500 watt / 4000 watt peak gets connected via an outdoor outlet to a ten circuit manual transfer switch. That wasn't a typo, it connects to ten circuits. Some of these are highly intermittent, including the garage door opener, the dishwasher, and the bathroom outlet where the Misses runs her hair drier. The larger near continuous loads include two refrigerators and a chest freezer. Our gas fired water heater and furnace, both with electric ingnitors and blowers, are also backed up with the generator. Other circuits cover lighting, the network infrastructure, and several PCs.

During extended outages we also run a heavy extension cord over to the neighbor's house where they connect their refrigerator and possibly a few lights. All of this is possible with a humble 3500 watts, but we do not have a water pump or electric water heater, nor do we make any attempt to run air conditioning during a power outage. If money were of no concern, I would install a 10,000 watt stationary liquid cooled diesel powered generator with a full automatic service entrance transfer switch and just be done with it.


I have a 5KW with a 6250 KW start, ad it serves our basic needs, but with an all electric home a 10 KW diesel unit would be great. However we rarely lose power. I do use my gen for remote welding at times, and also for tree and hedge trimming.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: cronk
Doesn't do much good to have lights and a computer if all the meat in your freezer is thawing or your furnace blower wont run. Different people have different needs.

Agreed, but I think the point of that post was that people should do a load calculation before purchasing a generator.

For what it is worth, my portable Champion 3500 watt / 4000 watt peak gets connected via an outdoor outlet to a ten circuit manual transfer switch. That wasn't a typo, it connects to ten circuits. Some of these are highly intermittent, including the garage door opener, the dishwasher, and the bathroom outlet where the Misses runs her hair drier. The larger near continuous loads include two refrigerators and a chest freezer. Our gas fired water heater and furnace, both with electric ingnitors and blowers, are also backed up with the generator. Other circuits cover lighting, the network infrastructure, and several PCs.

During extended outages we also run a heavy extension cord over to the neighbor's house where they connect their refrigerator and possibly a few lights. All of this is possible with a humble 3500 watts, but we do not have a water pump or electric water heater, nor do we make any attempt to run air conditioning during a power outage. If money were of no concern, I would install a 10,000 watt stationary liquid cooled diesel powered generator with a full automatic service entrance transfer switch and just be done with it.


I have a 5KW with a 6250 KW start, ad it serves our basic needs, but with an all electric home a 10 KW diesel unit would be great. However we rarely lose power. I do use my gen for remote welding at times, and also for tree and hedge trimming.


One problem I have seen with diesel generators is that they have a block heater that runs anytime it's cold. So all winter the block heater runs so it will start if there is a power failure.

 

[CrAlt]

I run everything I need off a honda EU2000i with watts to spare
NEEDS are well pump (120v jet pump in basement), boiler (1950s Becker fired oil..heats home and water), and fridge.

I put plugs on the boiler and well pump. I made up a 12gauge cord with "taps" on it. So when the power goes out I run the cord in the storm doors to the basement, past the boiler, past the well pump, up the stairs past the fridge and in to the living room. The genset will run everything at once and even idle down in eco-mode. I just cant START everything at the exact same time.

With the left over watts I can run CFL lamps, TV, computer, etc. I have a battery bank and inverter also that can run lights and the pellet stove over night. So at night i shut down the gen and run off that. Recharge during the day off the genset when its running.

I keep 20gals of gas on hand and with this setup I can run 14days. Change oil every 50hrs with Valvoline wb 10w30. During the last 2 long lasting outages the biggest problem was getting fuel. Hours long lines, fights, etc. Its nice not having to deal with that.

(sorry for sideways pics)

 

[Schmoe]

One thing to remember with these relatively high wattage, cheaper gensets is that the sine wave will be "dirty." I wouldn't try and run sensitive electronics on it such as computers or flat screen TV's. I keep an old 21" CRT TV around for that purpose, those things are like tanks.

 

[Colt45ws]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: cronk
Doesn't do much good to have lights and a computer if all the meat in your freezer is thawing or your furnace blower wont run. Different people have different needs.

Agreed, but I think the point of that post was that people should do a load calculation before purchasing a generator.

For what it is worth, my portable Champion 3500 watt / 4000 watt peak gets connected via an outdoor outlet to a ten circuit manual transfer switch. That wasn't a typo, it connects to ten circuits. Some of these are highly intermittent, including the garage door opener, the dishwasher, and the bathroom outlet where the Misses runs her hair drier. The larger near continuous loads include two refrigerators and a chest freezer. Our gas fired water heater and furnace, both with electric ingnitors and blowers, are also backed up with the generator. Other circuits cover lighting, the network infrastructure, and several PCs.

During extended outages we also run a heavy extension cord over to the neighbor's house where they connect their refrigerator and possibly a few lights. All of this is possible with a humble 3500 watts, but we do not have a water pump or electric water heater, nor do we make any attempt to run air conditioning during a power outage. If money were of no concern, I would install a 10,000 watt stationary liquid cooled diesel powered generator with a full automatic service entrance transfer switch and just be done with it.


I have a 5KW with a 6250 KW start, ad it serves our basic needs, but with an all electric home a 10 KW diesel unit would be great. However we rarely lose power. I do use my gen for remote welding at times, and also for tree and hedge trimming.


One problem I have seen with diesel generators is that they have a block heater that runs anytime it's cold. So all winter the block heater runs so it will start if there is a power failure.

Meeeh. If its N/A with a good high compression ratio and working glow plugs then theyll start pretty cold provided the battery is in good condition and fully charged. So a battery tender would be advised, but same with larger gas generators. Bigger issue would be remembering to treat the diesel with a antigel additive and run it long enough to work through the whole system. Nothing more disappointing than getting it to light off then have it die from fuel starvation after 5 minutes because the filter is plugged with wax.

 

[Touring5]

Originally Posted By: Schmoe
One thing to remember with these relatively high wattage, cheaper gensets is that the sine wave will be "dirty." I wouldn't try and run sensitive electronics on it such as computers or flat screen TV's. I keep an old 21" CRT TV around for that purpose, those things are like tanks.


That was my concern, particularly when running my gas furnace. Most of the current draw for the furnace is just the blower and hot surface igniter (to a lesser extent), but the control boards can be sensitive. For that reason I just bought a new unit to replace my ancient, but reliable, Powermate 4000 watt unit. I got a Champion "hybrid" 3500 watt setup (it's a "hybrid" in the sense that it's an inverter type generator in an classic open-frane setup). So far I'm still going through the break-in procedure (changed oil after first 45 minutes and will do a second after I've accumulated 5 hours) but it really maintains a 120 volt output, is significantly quieter than the old style ones and can run at reduced throttle with light loads using the eco mode switch (way quieter and fuel efficient). They've really improved the designs on these since 1990, even with being Chinese made.