Couple more question in general
How many qts would you guess it would take to do the band/ friction / soak assembly / final fill of an 80e with stick pan and large cooler? 3000 stall circle D.
Where in your opinion is the best place to put a trans temp sending unit?
What are your thoughts on a large in cooler line filter?
I was reading the instruction sheet for the Sonnax Forward Hub that you bought.....
"NOTE: This forward clutch hub and bearing combination shifts the support of the forward clutch hub
from the main shaft to the direct housing and sun gear shaft."
This means the Forward Hub to Direct Drum End-Play checks & specs DO NOT apply when using this Forward Hub!!!!
While this is fine for a Performance application, I would be VERY hesitant to use such a product on a Heavy Duty application that gets worked in reverse (Backing trailers & Plowing) until I test it.....Which could take years!
I will measure the sonnax hub and a stock one and post the differences. I find it hard to believe that since sonnax is all about snow plowing transmissions that other than machining for the bearing that much is different. As you have previously posted some times these direction sheets from them are not accurate...... hopefully this is another one. Yikes
Originally Posted by P10crew
I will measure the sonnax hub and a stock one and post the differences. I find it hard to believe that since sonnax is all about snow plowing transmissions that other than machining for the bearing that much is different. As you have previously posted some times these direction sheets from them are not accurate...... hopefully this is another one. Yikes
Well.....I 100% believe they took the load off the Main Shaft & transferred it to the Sun Gear Shaft via the Direct Drum now that I see the actual product.
The Broached area (Face) that is machined flat on a stock piece rests directly on the Main Shaft, The Sonnax piece is chamfered to clear the Main Shaft......
This was a wear prone area on Cast Iron TH400 Forward Hubs used in Plow/Vocational applications. The wear was all but eliminated with the Steel Forward Hubs used in 4L80E's.
I have been studying C.K.'s gears artical on rollerizeing useing the axod trans axle bearing. He also states that we can use an off the shelf Torrington. But later in the artical he states that cutting this pocket should not be done until after checking front end play as we may want to leave some stack height at the forward.
Now here is my question.if I can find an axod bearing is there by now a set amount that I should machine off of the bearing pocket? I'm not real clear on this protocol.
I thought I remember Chris saying several years ago that he was cutting .070"
Didn't need to measure. Clearly different with naked eye. I'll send it back.
Hold on! Let's keep in mind that Sonnax is servicing several different units with this part. All of them besides the 4L80E came with a Cast Hub.
The Cast hub can wear to the point that it's no longer resting on the Main Shaft & start tearing-up the Bronze/Brass Thrust washer OR the Plastic Thrust washer.....Depending on which thrust material was used.
Used in a HD/Vocational application with the Sonnax hub.....The load will Always be on the bearing instead of the Hub broach/Main shaft interface. As you can see by looking at the area of the Direct Drum the bearing will ride against.....The load will be applied to the bearing over a small concentrated area!
We as builders rollerize this location to reduce frictional loss when the Direct Drum overruns in 1st gear.
Let's talk about the POSITIVE attributes of rerouting the load to the Direct Drum....
*It reduces Direct Drum "Float/Run-Out" by keeping the Direct Drum grounded to the Sun Gear Shaft in forward gears.....This is a good thing in high RPM performance builds!!
I truly believe you will be fine with this in a performance application!!
Everything else stays the same....Forward Hub to Direct Drum end-play is no longer applicable!!......There won't be any end play at this location using the Sonnax hub.
The only reason you would need to machine the bearing pad on the hub down is IF Front Unit end-play ends up too tight with the thinnest Stator Selectable Thrust Washer.
CLine what is the preferred method of drilling the separator plate? Pinvise?
I should be able to get quite a bit done this week end as I now have most all of the parts in hand.
Also what tools or technique are you using to assemble pistons and lip seals. I'm a little concerned about the best assembly practice with out wrecking them.
Thanks