You’ve been doing a lot of reading. Will this be your favorite subject?
3k vs 5k Synthetic OCI
- Thread starter picklyrickly1073
- Start date
Watch a couple YouTube vids and we all regress back to 3k oci’s. No thanks. I was pushing conventional oil past that back in the day. IMO most synthetic’s can handle a 5k oci in severe conditions. UOA would be your best bet for some possible useful information.
Much of urban Japan is low speed city driving.
There is not a lot of high-speed highway driving in most of Japan.
Also high load-high temp large vehicles are almost non existent in Japan.
Which is why they can effectively use a lower vis engine oil.
Also they do not experience huge temp swings like north america does.
I personally think we should go back to the ambient temp recommendations for various engines.
Look at other parts of the globe. What is the recommended viscosity for your engine.
Our odyssey was 20 in Canada, but in South America it was a 30 and 40 weight.
In summer we have been getting hotter ambient temperatures than the southern US and almost equal to SA.
Too much 1 size fits all kinda stuff going on here. CAFE credits, incentives and penalties are to blame.
It's crazy......
EV auto makers can even sell their credits to other manufacturers.......how is that good for the environment?
It's such a farce.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2024
- Messages
- 113
Honestly no, I’d like to figure out how to move forward once and then just rinse and repeat until I get the next car whenever that may be (hopefully will keep this one to 200k as I have with my other cars)
That's awesome.
All some of us are saying is that might not work for others.
For me to drive 3k miles would take 3-4 years and thousands of short trips........half of them in -25c weather.
It does not work for my car's. I change it every 6 months.
Our 2.0T DI
Sometimes I do 4-5 months because it stinks of oil. And is very thin.......
I said “bit of a clown” he makes a lot of videos which are quite good but that whole tear down video to find the stuck piston rings is pure trust me bro. If that was a car his shop had been servicing great he should be able to state exactly what the past oil change milage/time intervals were and what oil was used.
Saying oil analysis won’t catch varnish/sludge formation which caused the stuck piston ring is a pretty bold statement. Here I’ll speak from authority and put on my old experimental particle physicist hat, extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence. Thats not even a hard claim back up, all he had to do was pay $30 and show the used oil looked fine and wasn’t oxidized. Well $60 because you need a baseline value.
Your situation is certainly a unique one and may warrant a time based oci like your doing . I’d be curious what if anything a UOA would show?
I just question a lot of YouTube “experts” when the point is more clicks equal more money. Most people I know that are at the top of their fields hardly have time for family never mind YouTube content creation. Unless that is their business…
Are you saying that you can divine whether a piston ring is stuck or is sludged by looking at a used oil analysis? Are you saying that oxidized oil is a necessary condition for sludge or that sludge immediately oxidizes oil? I would again note that “trust me bro” is not something you ascribe to a professional opinion. There is nothing extraordinary in the claim that long oil change intervals in a sludge prone engine that has several hundred thousand miles on it is a good recipe for sludge. On this particular YouTuber, there is more than one video that highlights this. His go to solution is to install a new factory shortblock, presumably with a firm discussion on oil change intervals to the owner.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2023
- Messages
- 147
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2021
- Messages
- 197
Great advice,so many variables in your own vehicles operation,the more info you have,the better chance to make the correct and economical decision
I've done UOA's, mostly Blackstone over the years in most of my vehicles for baseline and check-up. The cost was the same or more as doing the change myself. I did them anyway for my knowledge, why else would I be a BITOG member. Baseline and random tests will keep you so you know details and feel comfortable.
For what is probably forever, I've been on Mobil 1 and PP in all the vehicles. Tests came back that I could go to 10k changes but those were all normal MPI vehicles. I pretty much stuck with 7500k/12 months as that was good for me.
My newer vehicles with GDI are different and driving conditions changed with more short trip. The 6k/12 month UOA on 5W-20 semi syn Kendall from '21 Tucson showed fuel dilution and wear metals. Smelled horrible, looked worse. That is now going to be 3k/6 months on full syn trying to keep the connecting rods inside the motor as long as possible.
'19 Pilot at maintenance minder with 0W-20 ~ 7500k showed higher wear metals and some fuel dilution. That is now on 5W-30 Euro and I'll probably change/check at 5k when it gets there.
'17 Accord 2.4L 6MT- no UOA's yet. OCI's were ~ 7500k with 0W-20. Last OC and still on it is M1 0W-40 because I had gotten it on good sale and daughters BF's car needed it. He's gone and I'm not wasting excellent oil. Not loving the cold engine performance for higher rpm and VVT until warmed up. Probably go to 5W-30 after 0W-40 is used up. Accord gets a lot of black on the chrome exhaust tip from all the oils I used. I'm sure the MT and redlines don't help that, oh well, I enjoy driving.
Kids cars will be at about 5k changes to keep them consistent and based on them being around, home from school etc. Neither one burn much or leak any oil currently. 2008 CRV with 234k, 2010 Forte with 183k. Oil stays very clean for at least 1k miles than starts to darken. When first changed and checked you can barely see it on dipstick.
For the Car Care Nut video and complaints etc.- He said the customer came to him as new customer with all past done by dealer or others but with the 10k paper works. His tear down from what I saw, showed the valve train and other parts appeared to be clean and not sludged. The pistons did seem to be a bit ugly. No micrometer but his video close up of the cylinder and his description of the "worn" part seem to match. Add to that the heavier oil usage from customer. True, who knows unless you see yourself.
Factory long block/short block etc. - Time and quality availability are a big factor and he discusses also. I'll go with my AAMCO rebuilt transmission in a Ford Explorer. Ended up costing more and taking longer than a factory rebuilt would have been from dealer or my normal shop. Warranty from dealer would have been 3x longer also. Instead I had to go back to AAMCO multiple times and pay more for other worn parts. Today's labor prices just add to that.
For what is probably forever, I've been on Mobil 1 and PP in all the vehicles. Tests came back that I could go to 10k changes but those were all normal MPI vehicles. I pretty much stuck with 7500k/12 months as that was good for me.
My newer vehicles with GDI are different and driving conditions changed with more short trip. The 6k/12 month UOA on 5W-20 semi syn Kendall from '21 Tucson showed fuel dilution and wear metals. Smelled horrible, looked worse. That is now going to be 3k/6 months on full syn trying to keep the connecting rods inside the motor as long as possible.
'19 Pilot at maintenance minder with 0W-20 ~ 7500k showed higher wear metals and some fuel dilution. That is now on 5W-30 Euro and I'll probably change/check at 5k when it gets there.
'17 Accord 2.4L 6MT- no UOA's yet. OCI's were ~ 7500k with 0W-20. Last OC and still on it is M1 0W-40 because I had gotten it on good sale and daughters BF's car needed it. He's gone and I'm not wasting excellent oil. Not loving the cold engine performance for higher rpm and VVT until warmed up. Probably go to 5W-30 after 0W-40 is used up. Accord gets a lot of black on the chrome exhaust tip from all the oils I used. I'm sure the MT and redlines don't help that, oh well, I enjoy driving.
Kids cars will be at about 5k changes to keep them consistent and based on them being around, home from school etc. Neither one burn much or leak any oil currently. 2008 CRV with 234k, 2010 Forte with 183k. Oil stays very clean for at least 1k miles than starts to darken. When first changed and checked you can barely see it on dipstick.
For the Car Care Nut video and complaints etc.- He said the customer came to him as new customer with all past done by dealer or others but with the 10k paper works. His tear down from what I saw, showed the valve train and other parts appeared to be clean and not sludged. The pistons did seem to be a bit ugly. No micrometer but his video close up of the cylinder and his description of the "worn" part seem to match. Add to that the heavier oil usage from customer. True, who knows unless you see yourself.
Factory long block/short block etc. - Time and quality availability are a big factor and he discusses also. I'll go with my AAMCO rebuilt transmission in a Ford Explorer. Ended up costing more and taking longer than a factory rebuilt would have been from dealer or my normal shop. Warranty from dealer would have been 3x longer also. Instead I had to go back to AAMCO multiple times and pay more for other worn parts. Today's labor prices just add to that.
I've got a Mazda with a turbo in it. Being spirited is a requirement!
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2011
- Messages
- 5,066
From what I've read in this post alone you've gotten that problem solved yet haven't "moved along" in this endeavor. Seems indecisive or the advice doesn't fit the sought-after narrative. If all you truly seek out of this engine is 200k then 5k OCI with any quality synthetic and a new quality filter will get you there without fret.