2022 Honda Accord 2.0T UOA / 4000mi / 32000mi / M1 5w30 EP

[VTECOverRated]

Nothing new. Silicon down, aluminum up, iron stable.
Fuel Dilution is nothing new, but sort of bounces all over the place. There doesn't seem to be any real correlation between how I drive vs the GC%
Run 1 Valvoline 5W30 HM
Run 2 Valvoline 5W30 EP
Run 3 M1 5W30 EP

IMO regular M1 and EP/FS/HM everything in that sub 30$ for 5qt area performs only slightly worse than Valvoline at the same price point (in terms of TBN, Oxidation).
Right now since it has gotten colder and there are days were we are sub 0, I am running 0w30 ESP. Will find out how that does.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Very curious how the ESP will do. Surprised by the reported difference in Ca in the Xom product if these are all Illsac GF6A? Wonder if the halving of MoDTC impacted the Al or that was just an anomaly - or if the Mo coating on the piston skirts have worn through at the most heavily loaded zone.

Did you notice the viscosity jump with ESP in any way right after the install?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

The ESP introduction (SP cert ) should fare better - absorb some dilution and increase wear protection.
Looking forward to the next UOA.
I have my eye on ESP SP. If my Amsoil experiment ends, going back to Mobil-1 and trying the ESP is in my cards.
I liked using Mobil-1 Euro 0w40. That's an oil viscosity that should be considered in this Honda someday.

 

[tolian21]

Good decision to stick with 5w-30 to offset fuel dilution viscosity loss. My acura rdx 2020 got really bad fuel dilution

 

[CarDoc66]

I'm not sure if fuel dilution is an issue with my Toyota 2GR-FKS (Atkinson) with the D4S injection but I switched over to 5W-30 for this reason.

 

[tolian21]

I'm not sure if fuel dilution is an issue with my Toyota 2GR-FKS (Atkinson) with the D4S injection but I switched over to 5W-30 for this reason.

Toyota does not seem to have this issue, but I would still have your oil tested

 

[VTECOverRated]

Very curious how the ESP will do. Surprised by the reported difference in Ca in the Xom product if these are all Illsac GF6A? Wonder if the halving of MoDTC impacted the Al or that was just an anomaly - or if the Mo coating on the piston skirts have worn through at the most heavily loaded zone.

Did you notice the viscosity jump with ESP in any way right after the install?

I didn't notice anything when using 0w30 over 5w30. The car runs fine on any oil, and I am on a stage 3 tune at 24.5 pounds of boost at 370lbft of torque peak. That amount of torque probably doesn't care. MPG is about the same as new (I average about 30.5).

 

[VTECOverRated]

The ESP introduction (SP cert ) should fare better - absorb some dilution and increase wear protection.
Looking forward to the next UOA.
I have my eye on ESP SP. If my Amsoil experiment ends, going back to Mobil-1 and trying the ESP is in my cards.
I liked using Mobil-1 Euro 0w40. That's an oil viscosity that should be considered in this Honda someday.

I was worried about ESP because it has a high Ca count, but after looking at some VOA's its about the same as the Valvoline. I don't have a reason to use 0w40 at the moment, because even with my driving, the tune, and the mileage, the wear is very low.

 

[VTECOverRated]

I'm not sure if fuel dilution is an issue with my Toyota 2GR-FKS (Atkinson) with the D4S injection but I switched over to 5W-30 for this reason.

It is not. I have had both version of the 2GR (pre and post D4S) and have the A25A. They all perform fine and I have yet to have dilution issues on any older toyota or honda. Its an issue that is exclusive to Direct Injection paired with Forced Induction.

 

[tolian21]

I didn't notice anything when using 0w30 over 5w30

Most people dont really need 0W, unless you are up north or Canada. 5w-30 has a lot more choices unlike 0w-30

 

[twX]

Right now since it has gotten colder and there are days were we are sub 0, I am running 0w30 ESP.

I don't have a reason to use 0w40 at the moment, because even with my driving, the tune, and the mileage, the wear is very low.

In cold weather, I'd be less concerned about the W rating of the oil, and more concerned about how well your aftermarket tune is optimized for cold weather driving.

In the Subaru community, I've noticed multiple engine failures in cars that may have been well-tuned for summer weather, but had far too much boost in cold weather due to poor temperature compensation, resulting in much higher airflow and dangerous turbo speeds. Boost pressure should be a lot lower in cold weather. Often ignition timing is more advanced as well when intake air temperatures are colder. The combination of these factors can result in much higher peak cylinder pressures.

The aluminum is significantly higher on the latest UOA. It may be nothing, but it may be related to the tune. High cylinder pressure and cold intake air temperatures will both increase the severity of piston erosion when knock occurs. I'd recommend taking some data logs and comparing your MAF readings at WOT to some of your summer datalogs, and make sure they aren't much higher in cold weather.

 

[fantastic]

As you've seen fuel doesn't track with mileage. If you look at your three fuel records you can see that the further you drove the less fuel was measured. This report is good & I'd not be afraid to go a bit further but keep testing.

 

[VTECOverRated]

In cold weather, I'd be less concerned about the W rating of the oil, and more concerned about how well your aftermarket tune is optimized for cold weather driving.

In the Subaru community, I've noticed multiple engine failures in cars that may have been well-tuned for summer weather, but had far too much boost in cold weather due to poor temperature compensation, resulting in much higher airflow and dangerous turbo speeds. Boost pressure should be a lot lower in cold weather. Often ignition timing is more advanced as well when intake air temperatures are colder. The combination of these factors can result in much higher peak cylinder pressures.

The aluminum is significantly higher on the latest UOA. It may be nothing, but it may be related to the tune. High cylinder pressure and cold intake air temperatures will both increase the severity of piston erosion when knock occurs. I'd recommend taking some data logs and comparing your MAF readings at WOT to some of your summer datalogs, and make sure they aren't much higher in cold weather.

This has already been taken care of as I have been tuned since last winter with no issues and nothing abnormal on my datalogs. The advantage to honda tuning is just how well the ECU is capable of adapting to different scenarios, especially the new ones that don't require standalone ECU's or piggybacks, as this is a direct flash on to the factory ECU. Temps are good, and boost is within spec (24.5 PSI is the target but I almost never, ever see that). My issues normally occur when its hot, summer time its averaging 90F+, where I am down on power. Still plenty to walk anything sub 400hp.

One thing I note is that this oil change was done during our warm season, its usually 60F on average up to mid december, then temps plummet to the 20-25F region especially in the mornings. We get 3 to 5 weeks of crazy cold weather then back to 50/60+. Heck, Christmas has always been an anomaly, with an average peak temperature on christmas day of 65-70F! Yeah, weather here makes no sense.
Heck, I run summer tires year round without issue as a result. I was unlucky a few years ago with a sudden record snowfall (snow usually doesn't last over night and melts due to positive temps) but we had 3 days of straight snow but as a result everything was closed so it stayed in the garage.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I didn't notice anything when using 0w30 over 5w30. The car runs fine on any oil, and I am on a stage 3 tune at 24.5 pounds of boost at 370lbft of torque peak. That amount of torque probably doesn't care. MPG is about the same as new (I average about 30.5).

Yes, but now you are running a ACEA C3 lube not an ILSAC. Significantly Higher HTHS.
I would say likely a good choice for that highly loaded motor though.

 

[VTECOverRated]

Yes, but now you are running a ACEA C3 lube not an ILSAC. Significantly Higher HTHS.
I would say likely a good choice for that highly loaded motor though.

Good point. I saw many people running it and decided to give it a whirl since I managed to find a bunch of it for a good price.

 

[M1Accord]

I thought fuel dilution isn’t a concern if the vehicle isn’t doing super short trips. At least that is Honda’s position. Are Honda’s new turbo engine not up to Honda’s standards and our expectations?

 

[tolian21]

I thought fuel dilution isn’t a concern if the vehicle isn’t doing super short trips. At least that is Honda’s position. Are Honda’s new turbo engine not up to Honda’s standards and our expectations?

I thought so too, but oil analysis tells us otherwise. Found Mexican owner manual for this engine, and 5w-30 is allowed:

https://www.honda.mx/acura/mantenimiento#manuales

Its obvious choice for me.

 

[cryptolyme]

i'm switching to 0w-30 too in my 1.5t. fuel dilution really lowers the viscosity significantly.

 

[Samurai1225]

I have a 2023 Type R with the 2.0 and I still struggle to decide what oil to end up running. I'm at about 16k on the clock and up until now I have not done UOA so I don't have and idea on what the fuel dilution is doing. So far I've I haven't gone over 4500 miles on any OCI and it's all been 0W-20. (PUP currently) I'm clearly not as knowledgeable as some of the good folks here on BITOG and that doesn't make my decision on what to run in the sump any easier.

 

[cryptolyme]

I have a 2023 Type R with the 2.0 and I still struggle to decide what oil to end up running. I'm at about 16k on the clock and up until now I have not done UOA so I don't have and idea on what the fuel dilution is doing. So far I've I haven't gone over 4500 miles on any OCI and it's all been 0W-20. (PUP currently) I'm clearly not as knowledgeable as some of the good folks here on BITOG and that doesn't make my decision on what to run in the sump any easier.

i would run 0w30 especially in a Type R. the 30 weight sheers down to a 20 pretty quickly in these engines anyways. also, 0w30 and 5w30 are a recommended oil in some markets.