2014 Camry, Iridium Plugs, 75,000 miles

[Tlhfirelion]

I've always changed plugs in previous vehicles well before 100,000 miles. I always noticed an improvement in older cars in performance and at idle. It's now habit. Any 80's and 90's model vehicles get new plugs and wires every 50, 000 miles. Well, these new fandangled cars have me wondering if it's too early to change an iridium plug at 75,000 miles.

it's not an expensive venture but is it a waste? All I know about the iridiums is that they are supposedly longer life plugs, 100,000 miles according to the manufacturer. I don't believe in lifetime anything but that can be taken too far. So, whats the hive here say ?

Thank you in advance.

have a good day!

 

[SatinSilver]

I still have the originals in the 68k 2012 Camry. At 120k is the first big service where the spark plugs are changed out. I'd go 100-120k before changing them out. Spend the money in other places like detailing it. brake fluid flush, Throttle body clean, clean and lube all brake calipers, air and cabin filters, etc...

I'd be more tempted to have the dealer change the atf at that mileage than replacing the plugs.

 

[Tlhfirelion]

This car has been a good car but the issue of not being able to do any transmission fluid changes myself grinds at me like you wouldn't believe. It was my fault for not checking that before the purchase and I may have taken a step back if I had known what that was like. Having to go to a mechanic to do a drain and fill irritates me big time. lol

The rotors will be turned and new pads put on this month along with a caliper greasing. Filters are all current, etc. Just the transmission fluid and plugs is all thats needed.

 

[Tlhfirelion]

If it matters, most of my driving is in hilly terrain at highway speeds. That little 4 banger can struggle sometimes.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

My Genesis Coupe had the 100,000 mile Denso or NGK (can't remember) plugs in it. At 107k I measured the gap and they were almost perfect. Not much for buildup on them either.

 

[SatinSilver]

I did have a rear driver's side caliper start to stick recently. The original brake fluid was in there plus the calipers had never been serviced. Put some new Wagner OEX ceramic pads on, new Napa reman caliper, brake fluid etc. I did have the dealer reprogram the ecu for transmission shifting issues. There is a torque converter tsb and a warranty extension to 7yrs/150k miles for a shudder tha occurs on TC lockup. As part of that service they clean the trans pan and install additonal magnets. So maybe before that expires I'll take it in and see if they will do the service/replacement.

My brother has a red 2014 Camry, no issues with it. There is a 2014.5 model that had something beefed up for the offset crash ratings.

 

[Rolla07]

Changed mine out at about 75k miles and saw zero difference. Will likely leave whats in for longer this time around.

 

[Tlhfirelion]

Mine is the 2014.5 model, SE to be exact. It did add the back up camera as standard and crash testing improved to deal with a poor offset head on rating if memory serves. Maybe I'll just leave them. I have noticed a very, very slight shudder when I first start driving the car but it goes away within a few seconds. Is there a way to drain our fluid thru the trans cooler lines or anything to avoid that contraption they have on the bottom of the transmission?

 

[Tlhfirelion]

regarding brake fluid. My dads trick was to drain out the reservoir with a turkey baster every 30,000 miles and fill that same exact amount of new brake fluid in. He NEVER had brake issues and never did a flush on vehicles having 250,000 miles. I guess it would get mixed in and after a few changes you'd replace the majority of the fluid? Thats what I always do. Maybe it's insanity but it works so far.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Plugs: Yes iridiums can easily go 100,000 miles +.
Since 1995, cars have had OBDII software & sensors which throw codes when misfire is detected, and it actually identifies which cylinder is misfiring.
http://www.underhoodservice.com/common-causes-misfire-codes/ if you want to read some more.

Practically, as long as all the sensors & pumps are working properly and the spark plugs are still working, the cylinder will not misfire. Therefore, I say wait until your OBDII detects a misfire before replacing your sparkplugs. Even then, if you get the codes (MIL, or Check Engine Light), it may be a plugged fuel injector causing it, so you can even try Techron gas additive at first to clear the code. In any event, you don't have to do anything on cars these days until the OBDII light comes on!

I agree with you that differential and transmission fluids should be changed every, I'd say, 75,000 miles, just to get the metal particles out. The fluid chemistry itself holds up OK.

 

[SatinSilver]

Here's a pretty good video on the atf change from a community college instructor no less:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNcecuGzTDg

It's a long video.

With the brake fluid, the nasty stuff it at the end of the line down by the caliper. So that fluid doesn't get flushed out unless the brakes are bled at the caliper or sucked out via a machine.

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
This car has been a good car but the issue of not being able to do any transmission fluid changes myself grinds at me like you wouldn't believe. It was my fault for not checking that before the purchase and I may have taken a step back if I had known what that was like. Having to go to a mechanic to do a drain and fill irritates me big time. lol

The rotors will be turned and new pads put on this month along with a caliper greasing. Filters are all current, etc. Just the transmission fluid and plugs is all thats needed.


I'm with you on the non DIY transmission...I believe it's an attempt by the manufacturers to send people to the expensive dealer service department. If I was choosing between 2 vehicles...one that I could DIY...one that I couldn't....that would be the deciding factor.

 

[blupupher]

It won't hurt, it may help, may not.
Some say pull them early to reduce the chance of the plug seizing and making it harder to get out if you wait the full mileage interval. To prevent it, you could pull them early, inspect, and reinstall, but if going to that trouble, just replace them IMO.
You also have the issue of even though the plug may still be "good" and fire just fine, it can cause poorer mileage and performance.

If they are easy to get to, why not though.
I am debating doing the Scion's plugs @ 50,000 miles (still 2+ years at current driving rate) because of the timeframe.

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Plugs: Yes iridiums can easily go 100,000 miles +.
Since 1995, cars have had OBDII software & sensors which throw codes when misfire is detected, and it actually identifies which cylinder is misfiring.
http://www.underhoodservice.com/common-causes-misfire-codes/ if you want to read some more.

Practically, as long as all the sensors & pumps are working properly and the spark plugs are still working, the cylinder will not misfire. Therefore, I say wait until your OBDII detects a misfire before replacing your sparkplugs. Even then, if you get the codes (MIL, or Check Engine Light), it may be a plugged fuel injector causing it, so you can even try Techron gas additive at first to clear the code. In any event, you don't have to do anything on cars these days until the OBDII light comes on!

I agree with you that differential and transmission fluids should be changed every, I'd say, 75,000 miles, just to get the metal particles out. The fluid chemistry itself holds up OK.

You do not just wait for the CEL to come on. If you notice issues, there can be things going on that do not set the CEL.
Misfires take a certain number of occurrences to set the light, or even a pending code. Waiting for damage to occur before repair is not a good idea. Is it not better to replace a part before failure?

 

[Tlhfirelion]

I've seen that video and it made me mad. lol All that work when a simple drain and fill plug would be cheaper and easier. I do think like was already said on here, they do this so we are forced to take it to a dealer to get worked on.

 

[Tlhfirelion]

They're right on top, very easy to get too. Maybe I will change em.

 

[Tdbo]

I just changed the OEM Denso's in my Accord at 87K.
What a difference. No more hesitation at acceleration. Smooth idle.
Put in NGK Iridiums. Good plugs, but ought to be at almost $20 a throw each at AAP and AZ.
Fortunately 4 were $38 (including shipping)@ Rock Auto.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: blupupher
You also have the issue of even though the plug may still be "good" and fire just fine, it can cause poorer mileage and performance.

Not true. If the plug fires, the mixture is ignited, and there is no misfire, MPG and power is not affected.
Its an old wives tale from people who don't understand combustion physics that think plugs can "ignite half way" or whatever you're thinking.


Originally Posted By: blupupher
If they are easy to get to, why not though.
I am debating doing the Scion's plugs @ 50,000 miles (still 2+ years at current driving rate) because of the timeframe.

Ridiculous. OCD there.


Originally Posted By: blupupher
You do not just wait for the CEL to come on. If you notice issues, there can be things going on that do not set the CEL.
Misfires take a certain number of occurrences to set the light, or even a pending code. Waiting for damage to occur before repair is not a good idea. Is it not better to replace a part before failure?

Damage doesn't occur from a little misfire. When the OBDII code is first thrown.
You could indeed try to listen at idle for any misfire. That could be productive. In reality, emission control systems are good enough these days to monitor for any real increase in emissions (i.e., misfire) and alert you. Its pretty good at it. This is 2017.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
regarding brake fluid. My dads trick was to drain out the reservoir with a turkey baster every 30,000 miles and fill that same exact amount of new brake fluid in. He NEVER had brake issues and never did a flush on vehicles having 250,000 miles. I guess it would get mixed in and after a few changes you'd replace the majority of the fluid? Thats what I always do. Maybe it's insanity but it works so far.
that's fine but the BAD stuff is in the caliper and those need to be bled out. On Ir plugs, last time I did them on a 2001 Vitara 4 banger at 110K miles made no difference and plusg looked fine. You can get buildup on the insulator internally and externally that will cause a higher misfire count in challenging mixture and timing and humidity scenarios (lean, advanced , medium increasing load)

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: Tdbo
I just changed the OEM Denso's in my Accord at 87K.
What a difference. No more hesitation at acceleration. Smooth idle.

Imagined placebo effect.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Come on you don't know that. Could have been other issues.

Like "Magnatec runs smoother than M1 EP 5w30".

Guess what - it DOES!

I can twist my fluorescent lamp in the kitchen when it doesn't start on rainy days and it starts. High voltage high humidity = flakey operation. Same with ignition secondarys - especially F0rds!