2011 LML duramax oil

[CONMCK]

Originally Posted By: daman
T6 would be a great choice..or TDT if you had it.


Heres T6 in our 2005 Dmax. the 6.6 engine is very easy on oil.



https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2825808


Those are impressive numbers for sure...

 

[CONMCK]

SO, if I interpret what some are saying, I believe that sticking with a CH-4 or a CI-4 rated oil could be beneficial in my case????....egr turned off, no dpf/scr/def.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: skyship
most 5w40 diesel oils are part synthetics

Last i knew 5w40's were full synthetic(GRPIII)where are you finding a synthetic blend 5w40?????????????


You can get full (Group 4) synthetic, HC synthetic or part synthetics. In terms of the major brands the HC synthetics are the most common for a 5w40 grade oil.

Post some links of major brands that are a synthetic blend HDEO API CJ-4 5w40

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: skyship
most 5w40 diesel oils are part synthetics

Last i knew 5w40's were full synthetic(GRPIII)where are you finding a synthetic blend 5w40?????????????


You can get full (Group 4) synthetic, HC synthetic or part synthetics. In terms of the major brands the HC synthetics are the most common for a 5w40 grade oil.

Post some links of major brands that are a synthetic blend HDEO API CJ-4 5w40


Your post did not list the API CJ-4 cat and I don't have time to cross check exact approvals, but this is one typical part synthetic 5w40 (API CF rated):
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produ...voiladb=web.nsf
As I said in my reply most of the 5w40's are HC synthetics. I don't think there are any conventional 5w40's and the lowest would be a 10/40.

 

[dnewton3]

This so overblown; typical of a BITOG response.

Guys - the Dmax simply does not care what lube you use. There is no data that shows any signficant statistical difference when it comes to brand/grade/base stock.

I fully understand and agree that in extreme cold areas, such as the OPs location, that cold starts are a likely event that would manifest into starting concerns.

Let me be clear here; it is not an issue of wear, but an issue of starting.

Compression-ignition engines (diesels) need to be able to spin the engine quick enough to create the heat for ignition. When it's uber-cold, every rpm matters for starting. In that regard, thinner lubes can be an aid.

But I also content that good, strong batteries also help here. Not just because of the starting torque needed, but also to run the intake-heaters that are common in all modern diesels.

He may need a thinner lube; that would something that he can be the judge of, when it comes to starting ease. But it will NOT make any darn difference in wear.

I will note that the Rotella T5 in 10w30 has the same cold-crank performance as their 5w-40 T6. So, don't get completely hung up on the grades listed on the bottle. Look at the actual performance stats, especially the mRV rating if you can find one.

Pan heaters are a great aid, but they are only good if you're near power. Where I live, that would be great for me at home, but not at work after sitting for 10-12 hours with no outlet. Strong batteries and a thinner lube are how you start any diesel in the uber-cold.

 

[daman]

What I'm getting at is any named brand CJ-4 5w40 will be a synthetic not a blend or conventional, CF is an old spec Obsolete no? and would hardly work in a modern diesel.

 

[dnewton3]

I would agree, depending upon how one defines the word "synthetic". There are 5w-40 products that are group III such as T6 and others like Amsoil and others that are PAO or ester based.

But that is again a whole other BITOG argument ....

 

[Clevy]

So the t-6 and t-5 10w30 are the same thick when cold.
They need to do something about labeling properly then. If a guy was going off the bottles alone without research they may find themselves wondering why it still doesn't start,with "thinner" oil.

 

[CONMCK]

Originally Posted By: daman
What I'm getting at is any named brand CJ-4 5w40 will be a synthetic not a blend or conventional, CF is an old spec Obsolete no? and would hardly work in a modern diesel.


would hardly work in a modern diesel, and why????

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: CONMCK
Originally Posted By: daman
What I'm getting at is any named brand CJ-4 5w40 will be a synthetic not a blend or conventional, CF is an old spec Obsolete no? and would hardly work in a modern diesel.


would hardly work in a modern diesel, and why????

Do todays 2013 diesels call for API CF or CJ-4????

 

[CONMCK]

Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: CONMCK
Originally Posted By: daman
What I'm getting at is any named brand CJ-4 5w40 will be a synthetic not a blend or conventional, CF is an old spec Obsolete no? and would hardly work in a modern diesel.


would hardly work in a modern diesel, and why????

Do todays 2013 diesels call for API CF or CJ-4????


Daman; maybe you have not read this thread, go back to my OP on this one.

My OP states that my 2011 LML does not have a functional EGR valve (turned off) and has no SCR/DEF/DPF.

So the question is whether or not my LML still requires CJ-4 oil..that is what this thread should be addressing, that and a viscosity recommendation.

I believe in my case that a earlier API oil, (CH, CI) may even be beneficial vs a CJ.

Thanks everyone, so far..

 

[m37charlie]

As I stated previously (trying to answer your original question), a CH4 or CI4 oil will work fine in your current configuration. CI4/CI4+ is designed for cooled EGR; CJ4 is designed for SCR/DPF. None of which you have.
CH4 is designed for high pressure injection systems with electronic control, which you do have.
I attempted to make some viscosity recommendations (5W40, 0W40) from personal experience living in Anchorage, which is usually warmer than most areas in Alberta in the winter.

Charlie

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: CONMCK
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: CONMCK
Originally Posted By: daman
What I'm getting at is any named brand CJ-4 5w40 will be a synthetic not a blend or conventional, CF is an old spec Obsolete no? and would hardly work in a modern diesel.


would hardly work in a modern diesel, and why????

Do todays 2013 diesels call for API CF or CJ-4????


Daman; maybe you have not read this thread, go back to my OP on this one.

My OP states that my 2011 LML does not have a functional EGR valve (turned off) and has no SCR/DEF/DPF.

So the question is whether or not my LML still requires CJ-4 oil..that is what this thread should be addressing, that and a viscosity recommendation.

I believe in my case that a earlier API oil, (CH, CI) may even be beneficial vs a CJ.

Thanks everyone, so far..

I know you have no working EGR but the fact still remains that todays CJ-4 oil is so much better then previous used lubes for soot handling capability's and more,then your CF,CH,etc.

take some time and read this thread dnewton has some good info on why CJ-4 is a great fluid compareded to even CI-4.


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2206986#Post2206986

thats just one post he has more with some searching.

 

[daman]

Yes you can use CI-4 sure but IMO CJ is better, EGR or not.

Read the link.

 

[m37charlie]

Originally Posted By: daman

I know you have no working EGR but the fact still remains that todays CJ-4 oil is so much better then previous used lubes for soot handling capability's and more,then your CF,CH,etc.



What is the point? Especially without EGR does it matter that CJ4 can handle 6.0% soot and CI4+ only 4.5%, when he won't even get to 1.0%?
ANY decent CH4, CI4 or CJ4 oil will work perfectly well in his application.
But on a -35C morning it might be nice to have 5W40 rather than 15W40.

Charlie

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: m37charlie
Originally Posted By: daman

I know you have no working EGR but the fact still remains that todays CJ-4 oil is so much better then previous used lubes for soot handling capability's and more,then your CF,CH,etc.



What is the point? Especially without EGR does it matter that CJ4 can handle 6.0% soot and CI4+ only 4.5%, when he won't even get to 1.0%?
ANY decent CH4, CI4 or CJ4 oil will work perfectly well in his application.
But on a -35C morning it might be nice to have 5W40 rather than 15W40.

Charlie

The point is its a better fluid. plus CI is getting hard to find.

to each is his own last post,carry on....

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: m37charlie
Originally Posted By: daman

I know you have no working EGR but the fact still remains that todays CJ-4 oil is so much better then previous used lubes for soot handling capability's and more,then your CF,CH,etc.



What is the point? Especially without EGR does it matter that CJ4 can handle 6.0% soot and CI4+ only 4.5%, when he won't even get to 1.0%?
ANY decent CH4, CI4 or CJ4 oil will work perfectly well in his application.
But on a -35C morning it might be nice to have 5W40 rather than 15W40.

Charlie

If that's the case co-op makes a pure pao 0w-40 that is around 22 bucks a gallon. I think it's accessible in Alberta. I've used it in the summer with sea foam on dirty engines.
It's called d-mo 0w-40. Worth a look maybe?

 

[KevinsDMAX]

I'm not sure how cold your weather is in the winter, but I think I'm alittle farther North than you are. I have gone through almost three winters with my truck and have ran 5W40 Rotella every time. My UOAs are here and with 8K miles with pulling and winter starts my Iron PPMs were 11.

Getting ready for another oil change and was thinking of Mobil 1, but couldn't see spending the $5 more per gallon with the great wear numbers I already had.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: skyship
You can get full (Group 4) synthetic, HC synthetic or part synthetics. In terms of the major brands the HC synthetics are the most common for a 5w40 grade oil.


You're right, there are plenty of Group III 5w-40s, and even 0w-40s here. The Delvac 1 5w-40 is one of the PAOs, off the top of my head, along with some Co-op lubes. Actually, one of the Rotellas here in a 0w-40 is labelled as a blend, believe it or not, where the 5w-40 is labelled synthetic (probably Group III). I don't know if it's CJ-4 or not off the top of my head.

CONMCK: I would assume your truck still has some warranty left, and the manual likely calls for CJ-4. Am I correct on that? If I am, I would stick with the specified lube. There are not a lot of benefits in going to old specifications. As m37charlie mentioned, going older than CH-4 would be pointless, and probably difficult anyhow. I can't see such a lube being massively cheaper than a CJ-4, either.

 

[bullwinkle]

I think, with ALL of his emission equipment removed, that warranty concerns are pretty non-existent at this point. CF is an old passenger car spec usually combined with a gas spec like SL or SM, not really an HDEO spec. CJ-4 can handle more soot than the older specs, but the older CH- or CI-4 would work fine, anything thin enough to get it started would work, even dino 10W30 Rotella T or Delvac 1300.