2008 accord 2.4L piston soak

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Brybo86

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Car has about 163k on it now. Amsoil SS only until about 120k
Since then I have tried various oils M1 EP 0w20, idemitsu 0w20, Pennzoil pure plus 5w20.
I have noticed the oil consumption increasing lately.

20 hrs @80mph (1400 miles) Chicago to CNY trips used to drop the level from full to Mb 3/4.
On the most recent trip it dropped a quart mid trip at 700 miles.

PCV valve is new 5k ago.

I pulled the plugs tonight.
And dumped 1 oz of seafoam into each plug hole.
Then covered the plug holes with a plastic bags to help with evaporation.

It looked like the #1 plug on the left had some color on the center insulator.
Reading on Honda forum it sounds like the rings freeze up between 70-150k and burn oil quickly.

I will check tomorrow and add more seafoam if dried out
Should I go 24 hrs? 48?
I also have some B12 Chemtool I could try or some gumout All In one ?

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Originally Posted by SteveSRT8
This is where Kreen really shines. But those plugs aren't bad, so how are you deciding you need this???


That's what I was thinking. Oiled plugs will usually stay "wet" looking IME, and these don't look like that at all. I agree, Seafoam soak is not going to do anything for you except waste some money. "IF" the rings are stuck, you have two real options, and they have both already been mentioned here already:

1. An ounce of Kreen ($16/qt) in each cylinder for at least 24 hours (put plugs back in just to keep junk out of hole), pull plugs and crank it over for 5 secs to get the Kreen out of the cylinder the next day, then add a pint to the oil and drive it for 1k and change the oil, or:
2. Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W30, which is $73/gal, you can only get at Cummins dealers or Ryder Fleet Products, and will likely take the full OCI to work its magic.

But, you have been throwing a lot of variables at it by swapping oil chemistries. You can temporarily cause an increase in "consumption" when changing brands because there are all kinds of chemical interactions going on with a new add pack, so if you changed to a new oil and hit the highway at 80mph for a looong time it could simply be this.

Do your engine a favor, stick to one oil brand and weight for at least 3 OCI and see if consumption tapers off. IMHO if your plugs are dry (they are), your car is not puffing blue smoke or a continuous cloud, and your tailpipe/bumper cover does not show a black or oily residue, there's a good chance it's from swapping chemistries. If consumption doesn't come down after this, try a 30wt; PP Euro L is $23 at WM and is nearly a 40wt at operating temps. Or, just realize at this point in your engine's life, after traveling 2/3 of the way to the moon, it may be a little thirsty by now
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To me these plugs look fine, also I was in the market for 8th Gen Accords and passed on them because some of them were affected with oil burning issue from 2008-2010(or maybe 2011) around 100K mi or higher.

Good luck and hope it'll resolve as I had a oil burning car and it was quite worse, truly a pain
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Aren't the 8th gen 2.4 covered by a recall for oil burn? Verify that, let it burn. Take it to the dealer when due for an oil change, tell them you're aware of the recall and that you burn oil, ask for an oil consumption test and return when they ask you too. Get a new short block on them.
 
Don't bother with soaks - - - Go and buy some BG EPR. - Amazon
Pour it in and let your car idle for 20-30mins.

It will clean those rings right up.....Worked wonders on an oil drinking audi we once had.

Buy two cans - - do the treatment again after 500 miles with new oil.
 
Recall only covers to 125k and I wasn't having consumption then
Last oil change was done with the idemitsu 0w20
Last summer I tried using rotella 0w40 I had lying around and it seemed to use a quart every 1000-1200 miles.
BG EPR sounds like a rough solvent ,
I have some B12 chemtool I could add to the oil, I read they used to have add to oil Instructions on the cans
 
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I would say soak with something that has PEA, so as to try and remove carbonaceous deposits and free the rings. Run a detergent-containing SAE 30 (monograde) for 2k mile runs to clean too, and not add to deposits.
 
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It is a very effective cleaner. - Don't take a bit smell though - Im sure it will kill some brain cells.

Seriously take a look - - - - I have used it in an oil drinker - 1 quart per 1000 kms and other engines just to keep the ring lands clean.

Works wonders.
 
So I checked the holes at 11am all cylinders were dry when I checked by putting a wooden dowel down the hole
I added another 1oz per hole

I'm not sure if it would be expected that the seafoam would run past the rings after sitting for 12 hours
 
The problem with the soak is that there is no heat and movement to break apart and remove the carbon from your rings.

I have done soaks before with limited success.

If you get your accord figured out - you might want to run a good diesel oil to keep them clean.

Or BG EPR them every 10-20,000 miles.

Good luck.
 
When I was shopping for one,a member here told me to buy a 12 or newer. I bought a 12 and it runs like a dream. Smooth,quiet,and doesn't use a drop of oil. Gets incredible gas mileage.
 
Originally Posted by Brian553
I would say soak with something that has PEA, so as to try and remove carbonaceous deposits and free the rings. Run a detergent-containing SAE 30 (monograde) for 2k mile runs to clean too, and not add to deposits.


Brian, everything I have read (and all products that contain PEA) says there has to be the heat of combustion to activate it. Soaks with PEA are not likely to do much except burn a hole in your wallet. Use it like instructed on the bottle, pour it in the tank and then drive it.

And there are better options than a monograde oil for cleaning (which will most likely not do much at all)... Kreen or Valvoline PB Restore.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by Brian553
I would say soak with something that has PEA, so as to try and remove carbonaceous deposits and free the rings. Run a detergent-containing SAE 30 (monograde) for 2k mile runs to clean too, and not add to deposits.


Brian, everything I have read (and all products that contain PEA) says there has to be the heat of combustion to activate it. Soaks with PEA are not likely to do much except burn a hole in your wallet. Use it like instructed on the bottle, pour it in the tank and then drive it.

And there are better options than a monograde oil for cleaning (which will most likely not do much at all)... Kreen or Valvoline PB Restore.



Dang, I didn't realize the PEA had to be heated like that to work.

I thought Group 1 had good solvency for things like this? reference: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4246591/2

SonofJoe was suggesting 20w-50 in the thread, admittedly, and I can't guarantee that monograde 30 will be Group 1.
 
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