2007-08 BMW 328i sedan

[The Critic]

It has come to my attention that there are some very well-equipped, BMW Certified Pre-Owned, 2007-2008 BMW 328i sedans in my price range. The 2007 models with auto, premium and sports packages are selling in the 25,000 range with fewer than 30,000 miles. The 2008 models sell for a few thousand more. I figured that for about the same amount of money as an Accord, why not take a look?

Through my research, I learned that one advantage of the BMW Certified Pre-Owned program is that a vehicle cannot be certified if there are any gaps in its maintenance history. All of the maintenance history is stored on the keyfob and a printout of the vehicle's maintenance history is required as part of the certification process. This is very useful, as usually you have no information about an used car's past maintenance history. With BMW, you can easily access all of that information.

I am posting this thread to see if anyone is aware of any serious issues with these cars. CR reports the reliability of the newest 3-series (E90) to be very good (4/5). The 328i uses a GM 6L45 transmission, so a rebuild should not be too expensive. Having a car with stellar reliability is not important to me as my current car is a Saturn, but the car's reliability must still be reasonable. I plan to perform all repairs and maintenance myself once the vehicle is out-of-warranty.

The only issue that I can see with these cars is that the tires cannot be rotated if you have the sports package (staggered setup), which means the tires will need replacement about every 15,000 miles. Also, the stock tires are runflats, so no spare is included. So if I switch to normal tires, I'd have to call a tow truck if I get a serious puncture.

Anyway, does anyone own one of these cars? I would be interested in hearing your ownership experience. As always, all other advice and input is welcome.

Thanks in advance.

PS: Since this is an oil site, in case some of you were wondering, the oil change intervals vary significantly with the new Condition Based Service (CBS) system on these cars. Some cars need a service before 10k, others go as long as 20k, but most average around 15k. The car takes seven quarts of a BMW LL-01 approved oil, such as Mobil 1 0w-40. And unlike some of you, I actually find the extended intervals to be a big plus and I would follow them.

 

[sprintman]

Get a manual and change the oil more often. As a BMW owner who spends hours every day on a multitude of BMW forums it is sage advice. Oil is cheap, particulatly where you live. Cheers..s

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
All of the maintenance history is stored on the keyfob and a printout of the vehicle's maintenance history is required as part of the certification process. This is very useful, as usually you have no information about an used car's past maintenance history. With BMW, you can easily access all of that information.

Minor caveat: you still don't know how the vehicle was treated.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
I am posting this thread to see if anyone is aware of any serious issues with these cars.

Some European publication recently rated the E90 3-series the most reliable car in Europe IIRC.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
The only issue that I can see with these cars is that the tires cannot be rotated if you have the sports package (staggered setup), which means the tires will need replacement about every 15,000 miles.

Yes, but you're only replacing two at a time.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
Also, the stock tires are runflats, so no spare is included. So if I switch to normal tires, I'd have to call a tow truck if I get a serious puncture.

Indeed.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
Anyway, does anyone own one of these cars? I would be interested in hearing your ownership experience. As always, all other advice and input is welcome.

A guy I used to work for has a 335i 6MT. Not sure how relevant you'd consider that, but he loves it and it's been extremely good to him over the past year and a half or so.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
PS: Since this is an oil site, in case some of you were wondering, the oil change intervals vary significantly with the new Condition Based Service (CBS) system on these cars. Some cars need a service before 10k, others go as long as 20k, but most average around 15k. The car takes seven quarts of a BMW LL-01 approved oil, such as Mobil 1 0w-40. And unlike some of you, I actually find the extended intervals to be a big plus and I would follow them.

Someone needs to stand up for BMW's engineering expertise...

Besides, as far as I can tell, most of the bad rap for BMW's extended OCIs comes from:

1. A few E39s and E46s with uncertain maintenance histories; and
2. A few UOAs and horror stories from the 335i, which is a very different animal with respect to oil.

An E90 328i, sensibly driven (I'm sure you are fully aware of what "sensible" means for a BMW), should be just fine on factory specified maintenance IMO.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: sprintman
Get a manual

Agreed.

 

[Camu Mahubah]

I think you would be very, very satisfied with a BMW. When I was in school I had an 82 320i. I really loved that car. I think that is the only car I really regret selling. Now I have no experience with the current model but I would rather you buy a Bimmer than a Honda or Acura anyday. I think you can get a bit more than 15000 out of the tires though. I think these may be a bit expensive in some areas of ownership, but I think it all equals out. Soul don't come cheap these days. Well actually it kinda does, a Bimmer at a Toyota prices! And if you find you are not the type of guy who enjoys a finely crafted automobile then you can always trade it in. They do hold their value well.

I think in the long run you would be much more satisfied with a BMW than most any other car. I mean these are the cars that Honda and Toyota aspire to build. As much as other manufacturers try they can only produce an approximate reproduction of the BMW's world famous handling. I mean I could go on and on and on, ranting about the accolades these cars have won in the past, the only complaints you hear are nit picks by car magazine editors who can find not much else to gripe about. This car is always on C/D's 10 Best List ain't it?

Now I know because I don't own one of these cars that my opinion is actually my own salivating desire for one of these cars myself. It ain't in the cards for me right now bud, but I hope it is for you. In fact if you buy a Honda then don't ever talk to me again...

 

[PandaBear]

Nice car to drive, and the run flat sucks in handling/ride and if you get into a pot hole that damaged the tire.

Typical high maintenance cost like $500 brake pad/rotor, having to change a chip when oil change, expensive run flat tire, etc. The real expense start after the warranty expires, like suspension parts (bushing), electronics, etc.

If you like the way it drive, that's the cost, and there is nothing like the 3 series' handling.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Typical high maintenance cost like $500 brake pad/rotor

Is this a new-ish thing for BMWs (as in, after 2000 or so)? I've replaced a few things on my car and looked at several others; The only parts I've replaced that were significantly more expensive than on my old '95 Maxima are the flywheel and the tires. Most things have been about the same or slightly cheaper.

I know parts on BMWs have become bigger/more powerful/more complicated over the years, but that's true of all manufacturers. I would expect the numbers to change but the comparison to be similar.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Typical high maintenance cost like $500 brake pad/rotor

One set of OEM quality ATE pads and rotors per axle should not cost more than $200. How often do you need new brakes in the front and rear? If brake part cost is an issue you may be better off with a bicycle.


Quote:
having to change a chip when oil change

Huh? Got some more info on that?

 

[The Critic]

Thanks everyone for your replies, please keep them coming!

The tires are really the only concern. It seems like the low-profile tires on the sports package model are extremely vulnerable to pot holes.

Also, I'm not sure if you can only replace two at a time. On all of the CPO cars that I saw online, most of them had four new tires. I've heard that the weight distribution on BMWs is near equal between the two axles, therefore, the wear rate of the tires is nearly the same on both axles. Is there any truth to this?

As for the brakes, the pads and rotors cost around $250/axle in parts, which is fine with me. I always change the pads and the rotors at the same time when I do brake jobs on the Saturn, so its no big deal.

My Saturn's suspension constantly needs work, as do some of the engine electronics. Overall, I can't envision the BMW being worse in the reliability department than the Saturn, right?

Also, the reset of the CBS after an oil change can be accomplished without needing a special tool. On the E90 models, it can be done by the driver.

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Some European publication recently rated the E90 3-series the most reliable car in Europe IIRC.

Yup, you're right! Found it:

http://www.bimmerfile.com/2008/11/11/bmw-3-series-voted-most-reliable-car-in-the-uk/

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Some European publication recently rated the E90 3-series the most reliable car in Europe IIRC.

Yup, you're right! Found it:

http://www.bimmerfile.com/2008/11/11/bmw-3-series-voted-most-reliable-car-in-the-uk/ [/quote]

But those cars were built on the "Für Europa" assembly line in the Dingolfing plant!

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
The tires are really the only concern. It seems like the low-profile tires on the sports package model are extremely vulnerable to pot holes.

Yes, they are. This is one of the few problems that my old boss with the 335i experienced.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
Also, I'm not sure if you can only replace two at a time. On all of the CPO cars that I saw online, most of them had four new tires. I've heard that the weight distribution on BMWs is near equal between the two axles, therefore, the wear rate of the tires is nearly the same on both axles. Is there any truth to this?

AFAIK, BMWs are usually set with the front more or less at zero toe, but with a little bit of toe-in in the rear for more benign behavior under braking and at the handling limits.

From what I've seen, the rears wear out first, although by how much depends on driving style.

Having 4 new tires on CPO cars may be a matter of CPO procedure or just plain marketability.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
My Saturn's suspension constantly needs work, as do some of the engine electronics. Overall, I can't envision the BMW being worse in the reliability department than the Saturn, right?

Agreed. Not even close.


Originally Posted By: The Critic
Yup, you're right! Found it:

http://www.bimmerfile.com/2008/11/11/bmw-3-series-voted-most-reliable-car-in-the-uk/

There we go. Sorry, it was the UK, not Europe.

But there you have it. If that's the case, the car must be pretty good.

 

[wavinwayne]

Mike,

I think you would be very satisfied with a BMW, from a reliability standpoint. If almost anything on the car needed replacing, you could most likely do the work yourself, saving major $$. Forget about tires as a major concern; if I were you, the first thing I would check on is insurance cost. It will be HIGH for a young man your age. If you can handle the high insurance cost, I say go for it, after a careful BITOG-approved pre-sale inspection (with pics for us all to critique).

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Also, I'm not sure if you can only replace two at a time.

You can. No problem.

Quote:
I've heard that the weight distribution on BMWs is near equal between the two axles, therefore, the wear rate of the tires is nearly the same on both axles. Is there any truth to this?

True about the weight distribution. Untrue about equal wear rate. Due to it being RWD, plus relatively aggressive negative camber in the rear, the rears wear out much faster, probably twice as fast as the fronts.

 

[saaber1]

This car should be a lot more fun to drive than an accord, no comparison really in that respect.

Plus with all the 3 series BMWs running around the "badge" factor is much less of an issue (for those who consider it an issue) than it used to be.

On the other hand there are still people like my neighbor who has a 93ish 750il and he put an ebay "V12" badge from a Mercedes on the back! Also he just bought a newer 750? and his front license plate is just a blank piece of metal with ANOTHER BMW badge on the middle of it! That is pretty sad and the guy is a real pri**. But fortunately those type of "badge mongers" seem to be gravitating to other cars and BMW is once again being recognized for it's sportiness and driver appeal, not just as a badge-mobile.

 

[ravenchris]

Between posts try driving one...

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d

Is this a new-ish thing for BMWs (as in, after 2000 or so)? I've replaced a few things on my car and looked at several others; The only parts I've replaced that were significantly more expensive than on my old '95 Maxima are the flywheel and the tires. Most things have been about the same or slightly cheaper.

I know parts on BMWs have become bigger/more powerful/more complicated over the years, but that's true of all manufacturers. I would expect the numbers to change but the comparison to be similar.


Those were the dealer price my friend was quoted on, and he told them to go to !@#$ and fix it himself. His own mechanic quote him only $200 or so.

He said that was a chip that he either needs to change when oil change or buy a reprogrammable chip on ebay, and reset it every oil change, to eliminate that annoying warning light when oil change is due.

 

[d00df00d]

You don't replace the chip, you reset the monitor. For cars that don't let you do that easily, you can buy a device to reset it yourself.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
You don't replace the chip, you reset the monitor. For cars that don't let you do that easily, you can buy a device to reset it yourself.


I figured that's what Swedish Chef meant, but that's not what he was saying when he talked about having to change (=replace) the "chip." "Börka börka!"

I have an electronic reset tool that lets me reset the service interval and oil monitor display in my Audi. The same company offers the tool for BMW and other makes. I think I paid 25 Euros for mine ten years ago.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
He said that was a chip that he either needs to change when oil change or buy a reprogrammable chip on ebay, and reset it every oil change, to eliminate that annoying warning light when oil change is due.

Sounds like someone heard bits and pieces of some conversation and made up what he missed. You reset the on-board computer, that's it. You don't replace any chips. In my '02, the procedure is described in the owner's manual. In newer ones, you can just reset it with iDrive.

My biggest gripe with the newer BMW is that you can't "think with your dipstick". I know the sensors are there to guide you, but most sensors on a BMW historically haven't been very reliable.

 

[The Critic]

I was thinking about something like this:

http://east-bay-bmw.ebizautos.com/webdetail.aspx?iid=3727942

Too bad it isn't my favorite color; Montego Blue is my first choice, followed by Alpine White. It's also missing CPO certification, but at least the two rear tires appear to be brand new. It's a former service loaner though.