2004 Rubicon Oil

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Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Any old 10w30 would work fine. My 4.0L sits a lot, only 3,000 miles a year or so.

If you're gonna drive it in the freezing cold, use a 5w30.


This.

I have a few UOAs floating around here from my 4.0L Jeep. The quietest running and lowest iron wear numbers I have seen have been from plain ole' Pennzoil conventional 10w30.

I also have some pics floating around from my friend's 2000 Cherokee 4.0 with the valve cover off. It had Pennzoil conventional from new, and the valve-train is spotless.



I used 10w30 for a while, but I would get what I call "OCI shock." My Jeep would tick even when hot for about 2000 miles into an oil change. 10w40 stopped that and I kept the oil filter the same. Maybe that is just a high mileage thing?

Wish I could say my under valve cover was spotless. It's covered in varnish.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3624423/Jeep_4.0_under_valve_cover
 
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad

I used 10w30 for a while, but I would get what I call "OCI shock." My Jeep would tick even when hot for about 2000 miles into an oil change. 10w40 stopped that and I kept the oil filter the same. Maybe that is just a high mileage thing?

Wish I could say my under valve cover was spotless. It's covered in varnish.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3624423/Jeep_4.0_under_valve_cover


That's not bad at all. I think yours is actually cleaner than most 4.0s. My friend's being spotless was a huge shock, until we found the stack of oil change receipts in the glovebox. If you poke around the Jeep forums you will see a lot of them with a nasty mess under the valve cover. Mine is pretty dirty, even after 100k miles of my ownership with 3k mile oil changes. I found out about a week after I bought it that the previous owners never really maintained it.

The ticking is probably the hydraulic lifters having a bit of gunk in them. Where the gunk in the lifters is seems to dictate whether a thinner or thicker oil helps. Mine is pretty quiet on 5w30 and 10w30. 10w40 in the summer is okay. If I run 10w40 and we have a cold night the start in the morning sounds like I'm starting a diesel.

I also found the oil filter makes a difference too. The longer skinny filter seems to help. KCJeep and I have experimented with a few of them. Seems the ADBV has something to do with it. I now run Wix 1516 instead of the 1085. In your case a Fram XG3600 instead of XG16.
 
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I've seen some pretty nasty ones. My friend has a $200 Wrangler that is filled with what looks to be black grease.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I've seen some pretty nasty ones. My friend has a $200 Wrangler that is filled with what looks to be black grease.


I didn't even know $200 Wranglers came with engines in them.
lol.gif
 
Mine purrs like a kitten, it’s really quiet. I haven’t driven it in 3-1/2 weeks, I should do a start video and post how quiet it is on clearance $1 per quart 10w30
grin2.gif
 
I think im going to try the Mobil 1 HM 10/40 im located in the Northeast and was concerned about the thicker Diesel oil for the cold starts. Someone correct me if im wrong?
 
It's 10W at start-up. That means it's good down to at least Zero, prolly -10* or so...

But, in recent years the oil co's have been making very fine all syn 0W oils that are more robust than the 5W and 10W counterparts. If I lived in the NE, I'd be all over 0W-40 for that old six. Good oil filter with top quality ADBV and be done with it. Good all year and easy starts. Still 40 at op temp
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
It's 10W at start-up. That means it's good down to at least Zero, prolly -10* or so...

But, in recent years the oil co's have been making very fine all syn 0W oils that are more robust than the 5W and 10W counterparts. If I lived in the NE, I'd be all over 0W-40 for that old six. Good oil filter with top quality ADBV and be done with it. Good all year and easy starts. Still 40 at op temp
smile.gif



ok I swear i know im a tad indecisive. Amsoil has 0/40 Diesel oil. thoughts? I keep reading Diesel oil works great and so does 0/40, am I correct?
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m.../?code=DZFQT-EA
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Amsoil is unicorn tears.



Is that REALLY necessary? Does it add to the topic? I'm not going to jump in if you say: "you probably don't want to use a modern extended drain synthetic oil in this application in you are doing 5K mile OCI's". But insulting the company, as a whole, who basically has led the extended OCI movement is pretty childish.
 
Castrol Edge 0W40 with Fram Ultra oil filter - your set for every season out to 10,000 miles .
That's my son's current fill in his 4.0L Rubicon and it runs great !
 
Originally Posted By: mmohr


ok I swear i know im a tad indecisive. Amsoil has 0/40 Diesel oil. thoughts? I keep reading Diesel oil works great and so does 0/40, am I correct?
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m.../?code=DZFQT-EA


Until the advent of the robust 0W-XX oils, the diesel engine HDEO's were about the best you could get. They were designed to run long OCI's and not shear down to badly. The basic 15W-40 Delvac and Delo both gave 1,000,000 miles motors (one for Cummins, one for CAT) establishing the concept of reduced wear and long engine life. And since they were "fleet" oils and could be used in both gas and diesel engines, they became the house brand for many folks, me included.

Then along came the 0W oils from the Euro refiners. The chemistry kept improving and the UOA's started showing good results and not much shear. They are also designed for long OCI's in gas engines. So they are slowly taking over for the HDEO's in many automotive applications. Especially where cold starts are an issue. In my mind, the are now becoming the gold standard for spark ignited engines.

In the beginning, they cost way too much. But they have gotten much more reasonable lately and they carry serious certifications. Once they started topping the Porsche A40 list "for all temperature ranges" they became my idea of a go-to oil.

You live in the NE. I don't. A cold day here in my neck of the woods is 33* or a night frost. I can run SAE 30 HD and be fine. You can't. So I'd go to where the technology takes me.

Many of the HDEO's have dropped their SM or SN rating. So no more spark ignition stuff. They offer "fleet" oils, but they are on the thinner side and not what that old six loves. Yes, it'll run a long time on 30. But it'll sound better and run smoother on a 40. It's a massively revamped AMC 6 from the early 1950's. So give it the best of both worlds. 0W for modern cold start capability and 40 grade for high heat off-roading with limited air flow while grunting through the woods
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Amsoil is unicorn tears.



Is that REALLY necessary? Does it add to the topic? I'm not going to jump in if you say: "you probably don't want to use a modern extended drain synthetic oil in this application in you are doing 5K mile OCI's". But insulting the company, as a whole, who basically has led the extended OCI movement is pretty childish.
How about you quote my entire comment and not just clip out what insults you?

I said "in this application". It's an engine that was designed over 30 years ago and is based off engines from over 50 years ago. The original poster also only drives it 1,000 miles per year.

So yeah, in this event, it's unicorn tears. Spending ungodly amounts of money on a product that will offer no real benefit is silly.

I have no doubt Amsoil makes a fantastic product, and as you said they're the leader for extended oil change intervals. But 1,000 miles a year isn't much of a candidate for that.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Amsoil is unicorn tears.



Is that REALLY necessary? Does it add to the topic? I'm not going to jump in if you say: "you probably don't want to use a modern extended drain synthetic oil in this application in you are doing 5K mile OCI's". But insulting the company, as a whole, who basically has led the extended OCI movement is pretty childish.
How about you quote my entire comment and not just clip out what insults you?

I said "in this application". It's an engine that was designed over 30 years ago and is based off engines from over 50 years ago. The original poster also only drives it 1,000 miles per year.

So yeah, in this event, it's unicorn tears. Spending ungodly amounts of money on a product that will offer no real benefit is silly.

I have no doubt Amsoil makes a fantastic product, and as you said they're the leader for extended oil change intervals. But 1,000 miles a year isn't much of a candidate for that.


I did take them as separate comments because of the double spacing. I guess "unicorn tears" means different things to different people. To me it means impossible to obtain and basically when the mythical unicorn sheds said tears, it croaks. It remains an insult, IMHO when applied to a legitimate lubricant NOT really necessary in a serious forum. There are many Amsoil products that would do just fine in this application. Expensive, true for most - heck I would use Amsoil XL 10W-30 or 10W-40 which is about $25 gallon. Changed every couple years, not going to break the bank.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I've seen some pretty nasty ones. My friend has a $200 Wrangler that is filled with what looks to be black grease.


I didn't even know $200 Wranglers came with engines in them.
lol.gif



Oh the deals he and his wife find...

$800 for the Wrangler. 1995 YJ, light blue, white hard top, 235k, but he sold the doors and top for $600. 3 speed automatic. Shifts great, but 45 mph is about as fast as I want to go.

Bought it with a fuel leak. The guy wouldn't let him test drive it, but he paid the $800 anyways. Turned out to be the fuel hose wasn't clamped to the steel line properly. PO was about 50, but his mom (75) is the one that made the Facebook ad because he wasn't tech savvy.
 
Thank you sir for the explanation, I went ahead and ordered the Amsoil 0/40 Diesel oil. I know WAY overkill for 1000 miles per year. But to spend 65.00 per year is no big deal for me to know that the Jeep is protected and gives me piece of mind..

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: mmohr


ok I swear i know im a tad indecisive. Amsoil has 0/40 Diesel oil. thoughts? I keep reading Diesel oil works great and so does 0/40, am I correct?
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m.../?code=DZFQT-EA


Until the advent of the robust 0W-XX oils, the diesel engine HDEO's were about the best you could get. They were designed to run long OCI's and not shear down to badly. The basic 15W-40 Delvac and Delo both gave 1,000,000 miles motors (one for Cummins, one for CAT) establishing the concept of reduced wear and long engine life. And since they were "fleet" oils and could be used in both gas and diesel engines, they became the house brand for many folks, me included.

Then along came the 0W oils from the Euro refiners. The chemistry kept improving and the UOA's started showing good results and not much shear. They are also designed for long OCI's in gas engines. So they are slowly taking over for the HDEO's in many automotive applications. Especially where cold starts are an issue. In my mind, the are now becoming the gold standard for spark ignited engines.

In the beginning, they cost way too much. But they have gotten much more reasonable lately and they carry serious certifications. Once they started topping the Porsche A40 list "for all temperature ranges" they became my idea of a go-to oil.

You live in the NE. I don't. A cold day here in my neck of the woods is 33* or a night frost. I can run SAE 30 HD and be fine. You can't. So I'd go to where the technology takes me.

Many of the HDEO's have dropped their SM or SN rating. So no more spark ignition stuff. They offer "fleet" oils, but they are on the thinner side and not what that old six loves. Yes, it'll run a long time on 30. But it'll sound better and run smoother on a 40. It's a massively revamped AMC 6 from the early 1950's. So give it the best of both worlds. 0W for modern cold start capability and 40 grade for high heat off-roading with limited air flow while grunting through the woods
laugh.gif
 
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