2003 Mazda Protege5 Questions

[Gebo]

I am helping out a friend with their 2003 Mazda Protege5. I have 3 questions:

1. What coolant does it like?

2. What ATF Fluid will work the best?

3. It is missing at idle and sometimes at cruising speed. Runs great wide open. "People" are saying the modules are the culprits.
The owner said the "miss" didn't start until after the timing belt and water pump replacement. I did find the gray clip that attaches
to the right module was broken and would not lock in. I zipped it so I have eliminated that clip being loose as the missing problem.

Had new spark plugs and wires installed in Sept.

Thanks for your help!

 

[mazdamonky]

Having worked/on/owned/maintenanced 4 protege's, interestingly all 2002 models I feel pretty qualified to answer some of these questions:

1. It seems perfectly happy with 50/50 universal coolant. I have had to run something such as the rislone cleaning agent through a couple of them at some point, but otherwise, they run relatively cool and just keep on going. Make sure the upper radio hose is settled well on the engine side or it will leak.

2. ATF, I have had good luck with Valvoline Maxlife, dex/merc. Any Dexron III or IV should be perfectly acceptable.

3. It is possible it is out of time? Were the coils and boots replaced? Apparently they commonly go bad, even though I have the original coils on my car with absolutely no problems at 226k miles. I find the MAF sensors can be pretty sensitive as well as being sensitive to the air filter. It is best to use an OEM filter purchased at Mazda.

 

[Gebo]

It runs too good to be out of time(I think)

Coils and boots were not replaced. Is that the "modules"?

I cleared all the codes and drove it an hour. It still missed a few times but no check engine light.

I'll clean the MAF with MAF specific cleaner. I'll get a Mazda air filter.

I guess I'll get a couple of those modules from Mazda. $113 each from dealership.

 

[mazdamonky]

I am not really particularly sure what "modules" are. I would guess that is probably the ignition coils. Can you take a picture of what they are talking about? I would go with the coils through Autozone with a Lifetime warranty and just replace them when you replace plugs or when you feel there is a miss.

The Mazda air filter shouldn't be much more than a cheap parts store filter, so it is a good decision.

 

[WyrTwister]

If it runs better with more throttle , I would look for a vacuum leak .

Are you getting a check engine lite ? Codes ? If not , I would not just throw parts at it .

I agree , if you feel the need to buy parts , buy 1 coil & move it from plug to plug & see if it makes some difference .

You said it had a timing belt replaced ? Look for un plugged connectore / devices .

How many miles on the clock ?

 

[Gebo]

Module/coil same thing....

No codes. I'm getting 2 coils/modules from Mazda tomorrow. Plus an air filter.

125,000 miles. I cleaned the MAF and zip tied one of the gray clips that plug into the module/coil. It was loose so we thought that could be the culprit. It may have been partially responsible.

The owner of this car cleans our church every week for nothing. She refuses pay. I'm not charging her anything so it is my dime.


It's a hard miss at idle. It jars the entire car. Maybe once every 2 minutes. It's like the car is gonna quit. It has quit on her but would crank right back up. Once it really stumbled at 50 mph. One day she said
it won't act up at all. Next day she lives in fear she will be stranded as it happens so much.

 

[cjolson140]

Check the rubber intake tube between the MAF and manifold, they often crack wide open at the bellows section especially if engine mounts are worn. I've replaced mine a few times now.

The EGR on these cars can get stuck open or plugged and cause idling/drivability problems, might be worth looking into but I'm not sure this could cause your symptoms. If timing was off it would run badly all the time, so I doubt that is the case.

 

[Gebo]

Here are the pics of the "modules" and you can see how I zip-tied the gray grommet on the close up.


CJolson140, what tube are you talking about ? The big tube in the pic?

 

[cjolson140]

That's the tube, yeah. If it is cracked, you may not be able to see it until you bend the tube around the bellows area. Mine was 50% torn around the circumference of the tube and looked fine when installed. Although, that probably wouldn't cause this idle issue.

I remember reading that these cars are somewhat known for intermittent low idle issues. Does it misfire as in: drop a pair of cylinders, or just run way too slowly and rough?

Mine sometimes would idle low after a hot restart. I cleaned the EGR valve a while back, and it hasn't been doing that anymore. If the EGR is stuck open the idle will be extremely poor.

Edit: you should also check the wires/connections to the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, as well as the ground on the passenger side engine mount.

 

[Gebo]

It's not a poor idle. It's just miss that may happen every couple of minutes or not at all. Very intermittent. It may go an hour running normal. The "miss" is almost like you turn the switch off. It's like all power goes away. It's not a skip. It has completely died on her at a stoplight but will crank back up immediately.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[cjolson140]

Does it coincide with the radiator fan switching on? Can you replicate the problem by switching in a high-amp load (lights, fan, rear defrost all at once). My old Volvo had a similar problem of dying in traffic and not restarting right away, ended up being a fuel pump relay.

Could also be something wrong with the EVAP, sucking in raw gas when trying to purge. I'm just spitballing now... I would try to get a datalogger going and let it run until it has an issue, see what the logs say about fuel trim, O2 voltage, load etc.