2001 Taurus - Oil related concerns to be aware of?

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His car has the AX4S just like mine. A pile of crud transmission if there ever was one. Drop the pan, change the filter every 30K and use quality Mercon V or synthetic fluid. Taurus's and Crysler van transmissions make a majority of my shop repairs.

Most of them take a dump between 65K and 90K without paranoid maintenance.

The Vulcan likes to blow head gaskets. People that run synthetic seem to have less issues for what ever reason. I can't explain it but all the customers that I do $50 synthetic changes for on 10K OCI's have never had to have one or more replaced. My conventional customers have them replaced all the time.
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
His car has the AX4S just like mine. A pile of crud transmission if there ever was one. Drop the pan, change the filter every 30K and use quality Mercon V or synthetic fluid. Taurus's and Crysler van transmissions make a majority of my shop repairs.

Most of them take a dump between 65K and 90K without paranoid maintenance.

The Vulcan likes to blow head gaskets. People that run synthetic seem to have less issues for what ever reason. I can't explain it but all the customers that I do $50 synthetic changes for on 10K OCI's have never had to have one or more replaced. My conventional customers have them replaced all the time.



It was the 98 and older transmission that had the problems on the 4s.
 
Wow. Well I didn't know I was getting myself into quite such a mess as far as maintenance goes.

30K mi seems really short on these transmissions considering most GMs I've owned were good for 75K mi before needing to be changed.

I'll be looking into having the transmission fluid changed soon (before I hit 30K mi).

The coolant was already changed out by the dealership when the car was traded in. Its also got 4 brand new Continental tires and had an alignment done by the dealership on trade in. I assume this was because the original tires (after 8+ years) had started to dry rot.

Can anyone suggest a good synthetic fluid for the transmission and will the transmission be able to go longer on synthetic as I don't really relish having to change the fluid every 30K mi.
 
Use Amsoil Transmission Fluid and do a complete change with a new filter. This will be expensive but they claim it is good for a ton of miles between changes.

See Pablo or Gary_Allen on this board and they can hook you up!

If you want something a litle less expensive but still a great fluid use the Mobil-1 ATF fluid with a fresh filter.
 
I run the Amsoil ATF in my 98 Taurus. I don't believe any ATF is better IMO.

I ran the Amsoil ATF for 85K in my Dad's Dodge van and it was still pretty red. I ran the Amsoil and installed a Magnifine filter as well. I took the Magnifine apart and it was very clean inside. The fluid was put in when I installed a rebuilt trans. I broke the trans in on the Amsoil ATF and the Magnifine.

I put 2 Magnifine filters on my 98 Taurus. One on the trans "easy" and the other on the power steering, it fits in the stock power steering filter bracket.
 
Amsoil is good, but don't believe for 10 seconds that you can go for extended changes. It's not just one thing that can go bad in that transmission.

Keeping the transmission filter changed makes sure one of the problems never happens, a clogged filter.

sUsing Synthetic fluid will maintain viscosity when heated but doesn't heat as quickly to begin with. That reduces heat problems.

Keeping the fluid changed reduces the massive amounts of clutch material that will constantly be shed. When the material builds up, the clutch packs have reduced ability to engage correctly. They then wear out more quickly like a slipping clutch for a manual transmission.

No need to do a "flush" if you do this. You will buy half the fluid each time when you drop the pan versus flushing. You almost break even versus doing a 60K flush.
 
30,000 miles is not short for a transmission fluid change. That is a good interval to help the fluid stay in good shape and the transmission
working at top efficency. Can you go longer? Sure. It depends on how anal you are about maintenance and how long you plan on keeping your car.

Even with a Syn ATF I would change it every 50,000 miles. Is it really that much of a hassle or expense every 3-4 years?
 
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Just do a drain and refill every 30k and change the filter every 60k and you'll be fine up to 125-150k when they go out.

Any Mercon V fluid is going to be good.
 
I have a friend who owns a 99 Taurus wagon with 420k with 3.0 Vulcan. The car started out as Taxi in St Paul, Mn and she got it with 200K. Transmission was replace at 300K, but the car runs fairly well and only burns a quart of oil every 5k.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Use Amsoil Transmission Fluid and do a complete change with a new filter. This will be expensive but they claim it is good for a ton of miles between changes.

See Pablo or Gary_Allen on this board and they can hook you up!

If you want something a litle less expensive but still a great fluid use the Mobil-1 ATF fluid with a fresh filter.


Aren't the latest Ford Mercon IV and V transmission fluids part or full syn to begin with?
 
Nice deal on that Ford. I would use the Motorcraft 5w20 or another syn blend 5w20 and Mercon V from WM. But have the trans flushed if you don't do it your self and get that factory trans filter out at the same time. You should get 200k+ out of that thing if you take care of it. You may want to consider flushing the cooling systems as well.
 
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Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Aren't the latest Ford Mercon IV and V transmission fluids part or full syn to begin with?
A strong blend to syn.

It does not matter unless you are towing in a Taurus. Just get the Mercon V and be done with it for the OP.

If anything, I'd spend the $$ on a trans cooler which will do more than any fluid could do.

Bill
 
Guys I don't think you get it. At any one moment, I have at least one Taurus or Windstar in my bay with a blown transmission. They've come in with perfectly clean and pink fluid, but the filter screen was clogged or some passage was bunked up.

THE FILTER MUST BE CHANGED. A transmission service at my place is $100 for parts and labor. At 30,000 mile intervals, you would get 3 pan drops and filter changes to get to 90,000 miles. I can assure you $300 is much cheaper than having a transmission rebuilt or purchasing a new one.

It would take a normal person 5-8 years to rack up 90,000 miles on a vehicle. What is $300 spread over that time frame? The AX4S is a pile of junk.

With that little bit of money that you actually spent, you darn well know that if the transmission blows, the car is going for scrap. Protect your investment.
 
SnakeOil,
What year of the 4s are you talking about? A friend has a transmission shop and he tells me it was the pre 98 Trarus that had the problems. Something about an aluminum piston that caused failures. Once that was replaced by a stainless piston all was well. An engineer at Jasper told me the same thing.
 
At one point in time my family, Father, Mother, Brother, Sister, and Myself, all drove Tauruses. 5 total. They have been great cars.

They are great cars, all of them went over 100,000 miles before we changed the Transmission fluid the first time. I was the first, and I was astounded at the difference in driving and shifting.
No aftermarket filters on the transmission, or an oil cooler line, we have all lived in Texas for the majority of the time we had these cars. And they held up with the 100 degree summer heat.

My brother sold his at 98,000 and bought a honda. He dosent take care of his cars.

Dad recently sold Mom's with 198k miles to a mechanic for $600. They bought a new Trailblazer.

My Sister, Father, and I still have ours.
All are doing Auto RX cycles, and all have had their transmissions serviced. All are going great.
That being said, their coolant overflow tank cracks every 3-4 years. $100 part from the dealership, but you can do it yourself.

The transmission shop we go to has been around awhile, 2nd generation owner of the shop, my grandfather went to the same place.
He said that the transmission should be serviced every 60,000 miles.

Some will pooh pooh on the idea of using Auto RX on one of these robust engines, but it really is impressive the difference that I have gotten out of mine.
And it is even more impressive all the junk that comes out at an oil change from a realatively "clean engine".
Mine has had some 5w20, but most of the time I just use whatever 5 or 10w30 I can find on sale. Never had a problem with any of them.

Good find! Its a good car, dont let these guys scare you.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
SnakeOil,
What year of the 4s are you talking about? A friend has a transmission shop and he tells me it was the pre 98 Trarus that had the problems. Something about an aluminum piston that caused failures. Once that was replaced by a stainless piston all was well. An engineer at Jasper told me the same thing.


The aluminum piston is the actuator for torque converter lockup in overdrive. They are all the same for all years. If you have a Vulcan engine (3.0L 12 Valve) with a few exceptions, you have the bad transmission. That is just ONE of the many design flaws. I'm not the transmission guy, I just own the shop and I tally all the invoices for work performed and pay the guys. My men are respectable gentlemen and don't perform work that isn't needed.

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
At one point in time my family, Father, Mother, Brother, Sister, and Myself, all drove Tauruses. 5 total. They have been great cars.


With the exception of the west side, Texas is flatter than Kate Moss. Not much in the way of stress on a transmission. Long highway trips aren't rough either.

If you can't afford $300 in preventative maintenance over the period of 5 to 8 years, you shouldn't drive. Everyone has different patterns of travel, and just because you had good success doesn't mean everyone else will in their environment and driving conditions.

It is well documented piece of junk transmission just like the Chrysler vans. A little preventative care can save LOTS of money and time.
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil

It is well documented piece of junk transmission just like the Chrysler vans. A little preventative care can save LOTS of money and time.


Amen to that! I'm on my second Taurus, but don't shoot me because they've been company cars. The first one ate its transmission at 135K even though it had been flushed by the dealer every 30k.

For this one I've been exchanging 6-8 qts every 10K; that's what I can vacuum out of the dipstick. I've been using Mobil1 ATF each time. I hear what you are saying about the filter and I'll put a fresh one in at the next interval, 90k. Does my plan sound good or should I be doing more/less?
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Since we're talking about Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable engines, I was wondering if anyone knew the sump capacity for a 1999 Merc. Sable with the 3.0 24-valve Duratec engine? My father never bothered to get a manual. I thought it was five qts., but then I/he end(s) up adding to it thinking it is using oil, but then it seems to stop using much oil after six qts are in it...


2001 3.0L DOHC V-6 capacity is 5.5 quarts.
 
Originally Posted By: Iain
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Since we're talking about Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable engines, I was wondering if anyone knew the sump capacity for a 1999 Merc. Sable with the 3.0 24-valve Duratec engine? My father never bothered to get a manual. I thought it was five qts., but then I/he end(s) up adding to it thinking it is using oil, but then it seems to stop using much oil after six qts are in it...


2001 3.0L DOHC V-6 capacity is 5.5 quarts.


Thank you. I actually managed to download an older owners manual online...
 
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