2001 Ford Ranger and 2012 Subaru Legacy

[hockeyfun1]

Hi all,

Just joined the forums. I live in Upstate NY and drive about 35,000 to 40,000 miles a year. Most (~75%) of this is highway driving. My goal for the two vehicles that I currently drive is 10k+ OCI if possible. I have a place that will charge $15 if I give them the oil and filter.

Vehicle 1:
2001 Ford Ranger, 2.5L 4 cylinder with manual transmission. 154,000 miles. Manual says 5w20 oil. I've been using dino for the past 10 years, but I need to switch to synthetic now for the longer OCI's because of my job. Last oil change, I was down a quart at 4000 miles when I got the oil changed. Doesn't seem too bad, no? What oil and oil filter should I use? I had the place put in a semi-synthetic blend but next change, I will go to full synthetic. Can I use Mobile 1 15k mile EP and the Mobile 1 EP 209 filter? Or a different high mileage blend?

Vehicle 2:
2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium with CVT, 2.5L 4 cylinder. 3800 miles. Manual says to use 5w30. I will get my first oil change at the dealer tomorrow (regular dino) and then switch to synthetic at the 7500 mile mark. Mobile 1 EP 15k mile oil is easiest to get, should I just use this? I heard some people say this car will burn it excessively. Is there something else I should use?

What about filter? I see Amazon has the Mobile 1 EP 108 filter that fits my car, or will I need something else? Does this car need a special filter that only Subaru makes/sells?

Vehicle 3:
2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara - I was recently rear ended so the car is totalled but I still have questions. It used to burn a quart of Mobile 1 Synthetic 15k mile EP every 2500 miles. I would just add another quart and be good to 5000 miles and do the oil change. Manual says 7500 OCI is standard but the car would never come close to that.

So I need to ask: is it standard procedure in ANY car if I am down a quart to add a quart, or should I get an oil change?

Another question: I see Pep Boys has a deal on Royal Purple. Is a Royal Purple oil filter compatible with either of the two vehicles that I currently drive?

Thanks!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Dont need synthetic whatsoever. Can go easy 7-10K with highway miles which are the easiest.

 

[hockeyfun1]

I just checked the Subaru and the oil level didn't even budge. So if I can do 10k with dino, what could I do if I used synthetic? Or would that be 10k also? I plan on trying to get another 125k miles out of the truck and hopefully 300k out of the Subaru. I want to make these vehicles last a long time.

 

[Brons2]

I would do oil analysis before extending a dino to 10K, for sure.

Personally, I would just get whatever synthetic was on sale if I was going to run 10K. You could start an oil stash like the rest of us nuts

 

[danthaman1980]

Wow... 35k-40k per year. I can see why you want to extend your OCI!

Ranger -
Definitely look for a good synthetic with a high starting TBN if you're trying to push it to 10k. Mobil 1 EP or Pennzoil Ultra would fit the bill. Royal Purple would probably be good too but i don't recall how high their starting TBN is. Consider switching to 5W-30 in the Ranger, as it would tend to slow down your oil consumption.
For filters, any of the higher-end filters such as K&N, Mobil 1, Bosch Distance Plus, even a regular old Wix or Napa Gold should get you to 10k with no problem. If you're trying to hit the 12k-15k range, I'd look at the wire-backed synthetic media filters such as Royal Purple, Napa Platinum, or Fram Xtended Guard. Pepboys.com doesn't list a Royal Purple filter under your Ranger, but AutoZone.com lists the Royal Purple # 20-400 for the Ranger, and I believe this filter is normally stocked at Pep Boys.
Before you try and hit 10,000, it would be a good idea to send the oil in for analysis once you hit about 7,000 miles, just to make sure it has enough life left. Some vehicles tend to be harder on oil than others. I found out a long time ago that 7,000 is about as high as I want to go in my truck, synthetic or not.

Subaru -
With a new, low-mileage vehicle I'd stick with factory recommendations on oil viscosity and OCI. Not sure what type of filter you have on that Subaru, so I can't make any suggestions there.

Suzuki -
1 quart every 2500 miles is a bit excessive, but not unheard of. You probably would never have hurt anything by waiting till it got a quart low and then adding another quart, maybe I'm a bit OCD but personally I try not to let my truck get more than 1/2 quart low. In reality you probably were adding a bit of life to the oil in your sump by topping it off with the new oil.

If it was me, I'd try Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 in the Ranger and the Subaru and see how they do.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
I would do oil analysis before extending a dino to 10K, for sure.

Personally, I would just get whatever synthetic was on sale if I was going to run 10K. You could start an oil stash like the rest of us nuts

WELL!!

 

[hockeyfun1]

Both cars also have on the dipstick something to the effect of Low .......... Full

So if it's in the middle, is it down a quart, and if it's at low, it's down two quarts?

Where do you look for oil deals?

 

[sopususer]

I'll chime in on the Subaru as my wife has a 2010 2.5 Premium with the CVT as well. She has about 33K on the clock. I doubt seriously you would have a consumption problem with M1EP or any other synthetic for that matter. I did run a change of PU once and the car used about 1/2 quart; it was the first time I'd used PU. But she has never used any other time on changes of PP, PU, and QSUD. Currently I'm running QSUD 5W-30. I'm sticking to the 7500 oci due to warranty requirements, but M1EP would certainly do what you are asking. Just don't know if Subaru would feel the same way if you managed to have some engine problem. However I expect engine problems to be very unlikely as Subies are tough cars. It is my experience that the naturally aspirated 2.5 is EASY on oil, and with the highway driving you are doing, I doubt there'd be any problem at all. M1EP 5W-30 sounds like a GREAT plan for a great little car.

I personally use the Purolator PureOne PL14612 on the wife's Subaru. This is our fifth Subaru and I almost always use the P1 filter.

 

[hockeyfun1]

I bought the $35 deal from PepBoys for Royal Purple (limit 2 deals per customer). They said Subaru can use the 10-2876 Royal Purple filter. Is that true?

I could save the RP for the truck and use M1 EP on the Subaru (just with a RP filter, lol).

If I change between M1 EP and RP on the Subaru, will it make a difference?

I might go to all the PepBoys in town and get more to stock up. I'm learning! ;-)

 

[ARCOgraphite]

No Syn needed in the subaru. No need for M1EP special high detergent oils on an OC with fast accumulating highway miles. The API SN ILSAC "Conventional oil" is designed for OLM longer life intervals and stay in grade viscosity. If you were doing the 15K as a 1x per year OC i say maybe on the M1EP, OTW its MAJOR OVERKILL. That subaru is super easy on the oil. NO wet timing chain, slow piston speeds, SOHC with simple finger followers. High detergent oil is not a free ride. just my 2 cents.

 

[hockeyfun1]

ARCO, so should I use synthetic and just go to 15k OTI? My goal is least amount of oil changes as possible, while still protecting the engine to the max.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Depends on health of engine, general fuel quality burned. Detuning the motor due to the mentioned factors would preclude a long OCI. You may want to look into a bigger/better mid level efficiency filter. MAybe check into a home TBN test kit and do a check at 8K then go from there.

 

[artificialist]

Is your Subaru turbo powered or not?

I would never run anything less than full synthetic in a turbo engine.

 

[Norm Olt]

h-fun from NY: You are mistaking and overestimating the possible convenience associated with extended drains and the real need to maintain records of your warranty-related oil changes.

You really don't need M1 EP for 15K and virtually any dino or semi-, or 100% synthetic SN 5W-30 will easily go the 7.5K your warranty requires.

No, his car is not a turbo. No it doesn't sound like severe service, either.

Waiting until after the warranty period to experiment with extended drains is, I think, pretty good advice.

Cheers!

 

[SubLGT]

Originally Posted By: hockeyfun1
.........What about filter? I see Amazon has the Mobile 1 EP 108 filter that fits my car, or will I need something else? Does this car need a special filter that only Subaru makes/sells?...............


Since you are still under warranty, make sure whatever aftermarket filter you choose has the Subaru specified 23psi bypass pressure.

 

[Xstang]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Is your Subaru turbo powered or not?

I would never run anything less than full synthetic in a turbo engine.


If it's a 2.5i with a CVT, it's not going to be a turbo.

The non-turbo cars will run just fine on conventional-my friend has a '96 Legacy with the 2.2 liter that has over 250k miles on it, seeing nothing more than Mobil clean/super 10w-30 its' entire life.

I would say though that any synthetic oil should do just fine in your car, IMHO.

Extended drains? Considering it's under warranty, I would say no-SOA will use that as an excuse to deny warranty claims from what I've seen. 7500 miles is a nice, long OCI anyway, so I'd stick to that.

 

[hockeyfun1]

How do these warranty claims work? If I go 7501 will that void the warranty for the engine if something were to happen to it?

Car is not a turbo.

So since I still want the extended OCI, should I just do 7500 until I hit 60k miles (warranty ends) and then do the 15k intervals?

As for the truck, it sounds like I should be able to use extended on that, and go maybe 10 to 12k since I am at 154k miles, right?

 

[hockeyfun1]

And also, for any car, if I do a UOA, but I topped off because I was down a quart, will that affect the numbers? What's the best approach to a UOA if I need to top off?

On the truck, if I switch to synthetic, where do I check for leaks? Will I see or smell them?