1995 Dodge 3500 van with 5.2 l (318) - spark plug recommendations sought

Follow the large black wire on the back of the alternator and you will find the battery isolator, and if it goes bad your charging will show just like mine did. Pleasure way made quality equipment and that solenoid is just for paralleng the house batter to the start battery when the starting battery is weak. You might want to look at Dodge Forum or RVnet for issues with other problems. I still go with the copper Champions because that cover needs to come off periodically to replace the air filter and cap and Rotor and in my case a leaking oil pressure sender. Really these motors are very reliable and you will meet others that have 300k miles or more and still running strong. You must keep up the maintenance though.
Don't ever take it to a quick lube place. They take 6 qts of oil with a filter.
Thanks, I will suggest to them that I proactively replace the battery isolator.

Good to hear that these engines stand up - this one has 261K km (about 160K miles) on it, and will likely outlast the body.

Good to know it holds 6 qts - it was down near the Add mark so I topped it up, but it sounds like running a quart low isn't too bad.
 
The vans are usually a year older than the title says. The builders buy the chassis with HD things and I believe that is why the larger pan. My 93 has a 92 chassis since it takes so long for delivery of a current chassis, they buy the end run of the previous year. I have not had any of the typical failures. It is a very solid chassis and motor and Transmission. I have had the typical brake issue with the hoses and calipers. I put new shocks and filters any maintenance items on it before we went on our latest vacation in June. I had a wiper nylon bushing give it up in the rain and a caliper that didn't want to release. Replaced both for less than $50 and traveled 2800 miles on our trip and averaged 16mpg running the cab air constantly. I was happy but those $4.84 gas fill ups were painful.
$800 to 1000 on fuel sounds like a lot, but you can surpass that with hotels and restaurant meals pretty quickly.
 
Chrysler & Ford were among the first to directly control the Ignition Coil/s from the PCM.....While others used ICM's & Ignitors.
Yeah, and it works but it's a little scary because it's not unheard of for the coil driver portion of the PCM to fail, then you're looking at a new PCM. I'm gonna guess it's a rare occurrence but still costly if it happens

I liked this vid
 
Yeah, and it works but it's a little scary because it's not unheard of for the coil driver portion of the PCM to fail, then you're looking at a new PCM. I'm gonna guess it's a rare occurrence but still costly if it happens

I liked this vid

It's quite rare, I'd say it's more reliable the GM HEI ICM/Waste Spark ICM & the Ford TFI Module.

GM & most Asian brands incorporate an ICM into each coil now.
 
It's quite rare, I'd say it's more reliable the GM HEI ICM/Waste Spark ICM & the Ford TFI Module.

GM & most Asian brands incorporate an ICM into each coil now.
Definitely more reliable, just a pick-yer-poison type of scenario: more reliable but really costly in the event of failure, or somewhat more likely to fail but less expensive and easier to replace.....not sure there's a right answer really
 
Definitely more reliable, just a pick-yer-poison type of scenario: more reliable but really costly in the event of failure, or somewhat more likely to fail but less expensive and easier to replace.....not sure there's a right answer really
I've pondered that trade-off between "rare failure but expensive when it does happen" and "needs regular maintenance but I can fix it cheaply" with the handful of electronic ignition failures my cars have had over the years vs. my cars with breaker points.

I know the EI has many advantages, but I don't dislike points.
 
You're a good friend. Is the owner mechanically numb or funds challenged to let it go like this?
The owners are our daughter-in-law's parents. They are incredibly good people, and we are delighted our son married into that large extended family.

They are farmers and bakers, and older than us, and not physically able to keep up with vehicle maintenance. I don't think they have a lot of money. In any case, I paid for the repairs (over their objections), and have asked that they repay me with baking (with an emphasis on pies) and produce.

I was pleased to be able to help.

They bought the camper used perhaps five years ago. It's served them well - I think this is the first time it's let them down.
 
I should add that per the rebuilder, the alternator failure was due to worn brushes. He also replaced the bearings.

The alternator had been replaced previously - it had a Bosch sticker on it.
20220724_190550.jpg
 
I put a set of Gabriels on my van from AutoZone. They had to order them, but they work great on mine... I had a 99 Dodge camper like theirs that I put a set of bilsteins on, but the Gabriels felt better to me. The suspension was tighter on my 93 than the 99 and thats one of the reasons I traded off the 99. Mine has 6or 7 leafs in the rear springs and the 99 only had 5. Never did make it feel better. Had that tail wagging the dog feeling to it. It had half the mileage and the 360 motor.
 
I put a set of Gabriels on my van from AutoZone. They had to order them, but they work great on mine... I had a 99 Dodge camper like theirs that I put a set of bilsteins on, but the Gabriels felt better to me. The suspension was tighter on my 93 than the 99 and thats one of the reasons I traded off the 99. Mine has 6or 7 leafs in the rear springs and the 99 only had 5. Never did make it feel better. Had that tail wagging the dog feeling to it. It had half the mileage and the 360 motor.
I checked RA - there are a lot of options for that van. If they want to proceed with new shocks, I'll run the options past the crew here.
 
I think my vote would be for the Gabriel ultras based on prior bitog testimony from @SteveSRT8 , whom I haven’t heard from in a while. I’ve used several Monroe products, and while I really liked the reflex, it wore quickly. ive also used kyb which was a good experience though a little more costly, and have twice gone with bilstein with inconsistent results for a premium price. They aren’t racing an RV, so a shock that handles commercial work vans well seems like a good option.

edit: and btw, good on you for using your talents with care to help out your daughter-in-laws parents. Family.
 
edit: and btw, good on you for using your talents with care to help out your daughter-in-laws parents. Family.
Thanks so much - they are excellent people, and I enjoyed being able to help them out.

It's a way to thank them for raising such a lovely young woman - we are so thankful for her. She is a wonderful wife and mother.
 
Ignition ballast resistors were used with the Chrysler electronic ignitions beginning in 1972, and used into the '90s I believe.
I know the older Mopars had the electronic module on the fender, and a ballast resistor too-but that was the older carbureted ones. Guessing a TBI one likely fires the coil off the PCM/computer.
 
I know the older Mopars had the electronic module on the fender, and a ballast resistor too-but that was the older carbureted ones. Guessing a TBI one likely fires the coil off the PCM/computer.
Our '80 Volare wagon with the slant six had an ignition module on the fender. It died, and I replaced it with a $20 used one from a wrecker. When replacing it I noticed it was pretty rusty underneath, and wondered whether the original module was still good but not grounded properly.

We gave that car to a family without a lot of money back in '97 and saw it around for years afterwards.

The only significant repair I ever did in the 5 years we had it was to replace the 2-bbl carb with a rebuilt one. That improved the driveability a lot.
 
Back
Top