1995 Dodge 3500 van with 5.2 l (318) - spark plug recommendations sought

[Number_35]

That's standard kegger intake for Dodge trucks of the era. The butterflies look clean on top but how's the underside? Any oil pooling down in the intake bottom? If so, the plenum plate is done, you'll find tons of info online.

The whole system is kinda crude but I'm amazed at how many '94-02 Rams are still on the road here (where rust doesn't kill vehicles)

Based on wrcsixeight's info, I was way off on model years. If it's still not charging when you get the alt back, it's time to research installing a regulator yourself. I've not done it but researched it in the past.

Thanks for the info on the TB unit! The bottom (looking down with butterflies open) looks damp but not wet. Not sure what's normal for these.

Still waiting to hear back from the rebuilder. He was going to bench-test the alternator and let me know. Was supposed to get to it earlier, but had a couple of rush jobs come in.

I'm hoping it's just the alternator.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Byopassing ecm internal voltage regulator....

A 10 ohm 50 watt resistor between the two smaller terminals on molded alternator harness will keep the check engine light off.

Ground one brush
Feed the other brush field current from new external regulator.
They have adjustable voltage models available for mopar. I use transpo540hd which is for a ford.

Body of regulator must be well grounded.

 

[Number_35]

Here are the battery's messy positive-terminal connections.

The grey wire goes up to a solenoid. The fine green wire from the solenoid looks like an add-on. It's spliced into a wire over on the passenger side.

There are also the heavy black and the heavy red cables - I suspect one goes to the starter, and the other one feeds the auxiliary battery. Oy, my kingdom for a wiring diagram which includes the aftermarket mods.

No idea about the fine red wire, but it was barely connected when I first saw the van yesterday. I had naively hoped it was the problem.

Still waiting to hear about the alternator.

View attachment 109631

Looked closer at the solenoid - it's almost certainly an add-on. (It's attached to the firewall with Robertson screws.)

There's a difference of about 0.5 V between the terminals on either side - that makes me think I'm seeing voltage from the 2nd battery on the L side of the solenoid. So presumably the green wire is to control the switch.

 

[repairman54]

That solenoid looks like a upfitters poor man's battery isolator for a 2nd battery charging setup. Lots of sketchy stuff can be found in conversions.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Depends on the actual continuous duty amp rating of the solenoid is, whether this 2nd battery method is acceptable.

The green wire is the trigger, it gets 12v switched from something. Grounded through mounting screws into thin painted firewall.

It might or might not combine battery banks when engine starting, depending on chosen trigger circuit.

If it does, solenoid contacts can take a beating, sometime fuse together, which then means no isolation with engine off.

A quality CD solenoid delivers better second battery charging compared to large finned diode based isolators of yesteryear.

Still when ecm vr decides 13.7v is fine and dandy, charging distant 2nd depleted battery slows to crawl.

 

[Chris142]

It also has a distributor - although that shouldn't surprise me. Our '97 Mazda van also had one.

They kept the distributor until the end. Sometime around 2002

 

[repairman54]

They kept the distributor until the end. Sometime around 2002

Ballast resistor? If so new spare should be in the glove box.

 

[Chris142]

Ballast resistor? If so new spare should be in the glove box.

I think that was only with points.... I think

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Get the Denso Iridium TT. Vans like those are impossible to change the spark plugs on, so iridium is a must. Pair them with NGK wires.

 

[Mazomopar]

As long as you are in the dog house, now might be the time to clean or replace the idle air control, manifold absolute pressure, and TPS. Easiest bolt ons you'll ever do. And throw in fresh rotor for the dizzy.

 

[Number_35]

Phew! The problem was the alternator, not the wiring.

I replaced the belt holding down the battery with a pair of aftermarket threaded rods with hooked end and an aftermarket plastic crosspiece.

Topped up the oil and coolant.

The van is running well. Thanks all for your input.

 

[Number_35]

Ballast resistor? If so new spare should be in the glove box.

I've replaced a few of those - didn't see one on this vehicle.

 

[vwmaniaman]

I did have an ignition coil with a very weak spark also. If the alternator doesnt fix the charging, check for that dual diode charge isolator. Mine went bad on 2 campers and no charge of either battery. That solenoid behind the battery has a switch near the dash to couple the house battery to the engine battery for stating when your engine battery is weak.

 

[vwmaniaman]

Follow the large black wire on the back of the alternator and you will find the battery isolator, and if it goes bad your charging will show just like mine did. Pleasure way made quality equipment and that solenoid is just for paralleng the house batter to the start battery when the starting battery is weak. You might want to look at Dodge Forum or RVnet for issues with other problems. I still go with the copper Champions because that cover needs to come off periodically to replace the air filter and cap and Rotor and in my case a leaking oil pressure sender. Really these motors are very reliable and you will meet others that have 300k miles or more and still running strong. You must keep up the maintenance though.
Don't ever take it to a quick lube place. They take 6 qts of oil with a filter.

 

[D60]

Follow the large black wire on the back of the alternator and you will find the battery isolator, and if it goes bad your charging will show just like mine did. Pleasure way made quality equipment and that solenoid is just for paralleng the house batter to the start battery when the starting battery is weak. You might want to look at Dodge Forum or RVnet for issues with other problems. I still go with the copper Champions because that cover needs to come off periodically to replace the air filter and cap and Rotor and in my case a leaking oil pressure sender. Really these motors are very reliable and you will meet others that have 300k miles or more and still running strong. You must keep up the maintenance though.
Don't ever take it to a quick lube place. They take 6 qts of oil with a filter.

Is that a van chassis thing 'cause the trucks are 5qts?

The timing covers on these engines ALWAYS start leaking coolant, but it's a relatively easy fix. Best time to also do water pump and timing set...and arguably plenum

 

[D60]

Get the Denso Iridium TT. Vans like those are impossible to change the spark plugs on, so iridium is a must. Pair them with NGK wires.

Does the coil have the balls to shove an acceptable spark through iridium?

edit: I know even at least on the early Hemis with COP Chrysler still clung to copper cores, and I always thought one of the benefits of one coil per cylinder was better spark which had the side benefit of being able to acceptably fire "harder" materials like plat and iridium

 

[vwmaniaman]

The vans are usually a year older than the title says. The builders buy the chassis with HD things and I believe that is why the larger pan. My 93 has a 92 chassis since it takes so long for delivery of a current chassis, they buy the end run of the previous year. I have not had any of the typical failures. It is a very solid chassis and motor and Transmission. I have had the typical brake issue with the hoses and calipers. I put new shocks and filters any maintenance items on it before we went on our latest vacation in June. I had a wiper nylon bushing give it up in the rain and a caliper that didn't want to release. Replaced both for less than $50 and traveled 2800 miles on our trip and averaged 16mpg running the cab air constantly. I was happy but those $4.84 gas fill ups were painful.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Does the coil have the balls to shove an acceptable spark through iridium?

edit: I know even at least on the early Hemis with COP Chrysler still clung to copper cores, and I always thought one of the benefits of one coil per cylinder was better spark which had the side benefit of being able to acceptably fire "harder" materials like plat and iridium

the fine wire iridium requires less voltage

 

[Number_35]

Drove the van over to drop it off. Found it incredibly bouncy, like the springs weren't damped at all.

Mentioned that to the owners - I guess I might be replacing shocks at some point in the future.

 

[Number_35]

I did have an ignition coil with a very weak spark also. If the alternator doesnt fix the charging, check for that dual diode charge isolator. Mine went bad on 2 campers and no charge of either battery. That solenoid behind the battery has a switch near the dash to couple the house battery to the engine battery for stating when your engine battery is weak.

Thanks, I'll investigate and pass that on to the owners. Excellent feature if enabled on this van.