I am unsure with respect to wrapping a water heater with bubble wrap. If the outside of the water heater does need feel warm when you touch it then how much heat is really being lost?
18 Year Old Water Heater
- Thread starter thescreensavers
- Start date
A lot. I also have one of the fiberglass wraps for it too. The reflective bubble wrap is cheap and easy to do. The reflective part is the key.
What anode to use depends on the water hardness. Magnesium anode rods are more effective in soft water, while aluminum anode rods are more effective in hard water and/or a high PH water. If you have a sulfur smell, aluminum/zinc anode rods are the best for reducing the smell.
Install this:
Brass Water Heater Drain Valve--LOOK at my insides!!!! | eBay
Unlike Freedom Flow, they are designed to drain the tanks of water. Using Freedom Flow can reduce monthly and long-range costs.
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The last drain valve you will ever buy, a high QUALITY item. Be sure to remove and reinstall on a new WH. The plastic types which are commonly used now are all junk and restrictive. Regular flushing will work wonders as does a new anode rod.
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I use a magnesium anode with hard water, it works great the hard water just eats it up faster.
Our house had an old Kenmore 60 gallon heater when we bought it; it was installed in 1983 and I never did anything to it in the 9 years that I owned the house. After 38+ years of service, it gave up the ghost at the end of 2021 and I replaced it with a Rheem hybrid heater.
I replaced my dripping plastic drain spigot a couple of years ago with a brass spigot valve. Be careful taking the old plastic valve out as mine snapped off when I applied pressure to loosen it. I used a small hack saw blade and tiny chisel to slowly saw and chip away the plastic from the threads of the water heater. Even a new WH with a plastic drain should have a new brass drain spigot installed during installation to replace the cheap plastic drain.
That's how I'm leaning. More than once, I've tried to fix something that worked and caused more trouble for myself. I'd like to change it on my schedule instead of the water heater's.
Thanks for the other replies. Lots to think about.
Those are my choice.
Had to replace a ~6 year old water heater after it started leaking out of the bottom. I had tried to drain it 6-12 months ago with no luck but it appeared to be clogged and nothing came out. I removed the anode rod yesterday and was expecting a lot worse.... No exposed wire/rod at all. Pretty disappointed that it rusted through the bottom in that time. It was an A.O. Smith unit but I don't think the name matters much nowadays. We do have really hard water here.
Use an impact wrench (27mm or 1-1/16" socket). You'll never get one out with a breaker bar unless you have a helper that can bear hug the tank to keep it from moving. First time I drain our new tank, I'll pull the anode rod out and add teflon tape or dope and snug it back up by hand.
Yes
How about an electronic anode for a water hester? While boats have many anodes many have an electronic anode system also. Mercruiser & Volvo Penta do. So not a gimmick at least on boats
I use compressed air to drain old hot water heaters because I ain't got all day and when I get a new one or new to me I throw away the junk plastic drain valve and install a 3/4 inch ball valve.
If it stops working how long before you notice?
I like the passive no electronic, no moving parts sacrificial galvanic ones.
Just check your sacrificial one every 2 or 3 years.
