10W-30

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Originally Posted By: Zaedock
UOA's are great for measuring wear. BuickGN had a very nice UOA from his Grand National, with half a piston in the oil pan.


LMAO!!!!
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I prefer 5W or even 0W oils in any current (non-diesel) applications I have. I think 5w30 is vastly improved since the 80's and even 1990's for sheer stability and is the better overall choice. That being said, I think 10w30 has also actually improved and seems to tend to have a lower pour point since the early 90's...
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Random question. If 5w and 10w 30 are both so similar, how can people get different wear numbers?

Ive actually seen better numbers with 10w oil. How's it possible?


Define "better" ? You mean you've done tear-downs and observed that an engine with 10w30 had less wear than one with 5w30 or are you just looking at UOA's which aren't meant to contrast wear?


Smaller numbers in iron wear.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Random question. If 5w and 10w 30 are both so similar, how can people get different wear numbers?

Ive actually seen better numbers with 10w oil. How's it possible?


Define "better" ? You mean you've done tear-downs and observed that an engine with 10w30 had less wear than one with 5w30 or are you just looking at UOA's which aren't meant to contrast wear?


Smaller numbers in iron wear.


But what does that mean? Do you know if the iron is wear? Could it be from chelation? Could it be that the one oil just had more particles of the size detected by a UOA in it? Could the one oil hold particles in suspension better, resulting in a higher reading?

Those are just some of the reasons UOA's aren't meant to compare different oils to each other. A few higher or lower PPM (remember, that's parts per MILLION) on a UOA for something like iron means essentially nothing.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Random question. If 5w and 10w 30 are both so similar, how can people get different wear numbers?

Ive actually seen better numbers with 10w oil. How's it possible?


Define "better" ? You mean you've done tear-downs and observed that an engine with 10w30 had less wear than one with 5w30 or are you just looking at UOA's which aren't meant to contrast wear?


Smaller numbers in iron wear.


But what does that mean? Do you know if the iron is wear? Could it be from chelation? Could it be that the one oil just had more particles of the size detected by a UOA in it? Could the one oil hold particles in suspension better, resulting in a higher reading?

Those are just some of the reasons UOA's aren't meant to compare different oils to each other. A few higher or lower PPM (remember, that's parts per MILLION) on a UOA for something like iron means essentially nothing.


Yes I'm aware ppm means parts per million.. Regardless of how small that may be, it's still a unit of measure. I just find it odd 5w vs 10w made roughly a 50% difference in iron wear. Both oils were pennzoil conventional. It's not like it was valvoline conventional vs say mobil conventional oils. See what I'm saying?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Yes I'm aware ppm means parts per million.. Regardless of how small that may be, it's still a unit of measure. I just find it odd 5w vs 10w made roughly a 50% difference in iron wear. Both oils were pennzoil conventional. It's not like it was valvoline conventional vs say mobil conventional oils. See what I'm saying?


There are too many variables to say that the Fe difference was because of 5W30 vs 10W30. For one, the 5W30 sample was taken after winter and the 10W30 before. I could list dozens more.

I'll try and dig up my single digit Fe UOA on QSQHP 5W30 which saw a trip to Moab and several years of service. FWIW, I use UOA's to monitor contamination and coolant, not engine wear (which is an easy habit to get into, especially here).
 
There's a reason you find it odd.

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I just find it odd 5w vs 10w made roughly a 50% difference in iron wear. Both oils were pennzoil conventional. It's not like it was valvoline conventional vs say mobil conventional oils. See what I'm saying?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad


Yes I'm aware ppm means parts per million.. Regardless of how small that may be, it's still a unit of measure. I just find it odd 5w vs 10w made roughly a 50% difference in iron wear. Both oils were pennzoil conventional. It's not like it was valvoline conventional vs say mobil conventional oils. See what I'm saying?


No I don't because you are ascribing more value to that variation in the PPM values than is actually present. The articles on the front page by Doug Hillary and Dave Newton spell it out quite well in terms of the amount of trending necessary to draw any sort of useful information about the wear signatures for a given engine on a particular lubricant. And that still doesn't give you REAL wear, which can only be measured through tear-down testing.

Food for thought:

Doug Hillary ran a series of OTR trucks (500HP Detroit Diesel engine) when he was doing fleet oil testing for one of the majors. He did periodic tear-down inspections on the rigs where one of the engines would have a random cylinder pulled and inspected.

His condemnation point for iron wear was 150ppm. Other contamination that was tracked was soot loading, oxidation....etc. Average iron measured at OCI was something like 105ppm IIRC.

He was kind enough to post a picture of a liner and the bearings from one of the random pulls on here. The engine had 1.2 million Km's on it and the liner looked like new with the cross-hatching still visible in the bore. The bearings were measured and were still within "as new" spec and so everything was put back together and the truck returned to service. IIRC, he recently noted it was still in service and has something like 2.5 million Km's on it now.

Many on here would have a cardiac episode even thinking about 150ppm of iron in a UOA.

In contrast, a past member BuickGN had a UOA done on his 650HP Grand National and it showed perfectly acceptable levels of wear metals. However it was making noise and so he tore into it and the bearings were completely gone out of it. Yet there was no sign of that in the UOA.

An extreme example for sure, but it does go to show that what one THINKS they are gleaning from a UOA isn't necessarily what is actually taking place. There's no $25.00 test that's going to give you the data you get from a tear-down. The primary purpose of a UOA is to track contamination levels in the lubricant and lubricant health. They can show you coolant leaks, intake tract leaks....etc. But the metals measured are not supposed to be a barometer for gauging actual engine wear. Sure, a 100ppm spike in lead may indicate a potential bearing issue, but as noted by Blackstone, it may also just be a particle streak. This is also why UOA's must be trended.

I placed the emphasis on MILLION not because I didn't think you knew what that meant but simply because when you are talking about a measure of 5 or 10 in relation to something measured in a scale of a million, one must be conscious of that when considering the gravity of that reading.
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
That being said, I think 10w30 has also actually improved and seems to tend to have a lower pour point since the early 90's...


I agree! I think that 10W30 has at least kept up with the times from the Oil Mfgs. I just think that with the trend going toward thinner oils that, no mfg is pouring any extra time/money/technology into 10W30's and it may become obsolete.

It seems to be a nice alterntaive for those who want a bit more of what a 5W30 isn't giving a particular engine that, maybe the owner wants especially in the Butt Dyno Area(BDA)
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I would assume 10w30 will be around if anything for OPE. These are usually rated for 30 or 10w30. 30 wt is not as easy to get either in more than a few brands.
 
from reading on "bob's" oil 101 etc it says a dino 10-30 starts as a 10, VII are added to get to a 30. on the other hand group IV real synthetics start as a 30 and no VII are needed to meet the 10 part. dino oils with wider spreads as 5-30 + 10-40 even need MORE VII, not good in my book, though i am still learning. i just use amsoils true synthetics and have no worries!
 
Originally Posted By: benjy
from reading on "bob's" oil 101 etc it says a dino 10-30 starts as a 10, VII are added to get to a 30. on the other hand group IV real synthetics start as a 30 and no VII are needed to meet the 10 part. dino oils with wider spreads as 5-30 + 10-40 even need MORE VII, not good in my book, though i am still learning. i just use amsoils true synthetics and have no worries!



Which ones are "true synthetics"
 
Originally Posted By: benjy
from reading on "bob's" oil 101 etc it says a dino 10-30 starts as a 10, VII are added to get to a 30. on the other hand group IV real synthetics start as a 30 and no VII are needed to meet the 10 part. dino oils with wider spreads as 5-30 + 10-40 even need MORE VII, not good in my book, though i am still learning. i just use amsoils true synthetics and have no worries!


Please don't read 101, that part that you quoted is jut plain wrong, and shouldn't be there.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: benjy
from reading on "bob's" oil 101 etc it says a dino 10-30 starts as a 10, VII are added to get to a 30. on the other hand group IV real synthetics start as a 30 and no VII are needed to meet the 10 part. dino oils with wider spreads as 5-30 + 10-40 even need MORE VII, not good in my book, though i am still learning. i just use amsoils true synthetics and have no worries!


Please don't read 101, that part that you quoted is jut plain wrong, and shouldn't be there.


Why is that?
 
Originally Posted By: zeuloa
Why is that?

Because a finished oil product is a mixture of multiple oil bases of varying viscosities, not just one.
 
Originally Posted By: zeuloa
Why is that?


Dino doesn't start with a base oil of "10", then thicken it up to a "30" to get the 10w30, and it doesn't shear back down to a "10". The statement that Synthetics can do it without VI is true possibly for some 10w30s, but not all, as even synthetic basestocks have Viscosity Indices of 120-140(ish).

It's an incorrect, and overly scary sensationalist statement.

I was messing around with some of the manufacturer's data sheets in this thread

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/vii-and-basestock-musings.210310/

for 5w30, 10w30, and 10W-40, they started with basestocks (presumably dino) of ISO rating 22, 32, and 46, which as you can see isn't even the same "10W" basestock for the 10w30 and 10W-40.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: zeuloa
Why is that?


Dino doesn't start with a base oil of "10", then thicken it up to a "30" to get the 10w30, and it doesn't shear back down to a "10". The statement that Synthetics can do it without VI is true possibly for some 10w30s, but not all, as even synthetic basestocks have Viscosity Indices of 120-140(ish).

It's an incorrect, and overly scary sensationalist statement.

I was messing around with some of the manufacturer's data sheets in this thread

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/vii-and-basestock-musings.210310/

for 5w30, 10w30, and 10W-40, they started with basestocks (presumably dino) of ISO rating 22, 32, and 46, which as you can see isn't even the same "10W" basestock for the 10w30 and 10W-40.


Thanks for the explanation.... Therefore 101 is incorrect? Regarding the Dino starting with a viscosity of 10 and having VII added to thicken as oil heats to simulate an operating temperature of a 30 wight oil is something I've read a few times before usually on papers explaining the difference between conventional and synthetic. Is this incorrect?
 
Correct, it is incorrect.

Originally Posted By: zeuloa
Thanks for the explanation.... Therefore 101 is incorrect? Regarding the Dino starting with a viscosity of 10 and having VII added to thicken as oil heats to simulate an operating temperature of a 30 wight oil is something I've read a few times before usually on papers explaining the difference between conventional and synthetic. Is this incorrect?
 
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