0w-40 observations in a 5w-30 recom'd vehicle...

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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I've torn down and seen torn down plenty of engines run on heavier grades of oil, many of them 5w-50. They certainly didn't suffer wear because of it.


Likewise. No evidence in quite a few teardowns that anything was harmed by heavier grades of oil. We ran 50w oil for almost 15 years in our fleet, engine life was seemingly unaffected.

But the remark earlier in your manifesto was most telling for me. ALL ENGINES ARE NOT THE SAME! People here have always made blanket recommendations as to what is 'best' without regard to platform. Too many variables means no meaningful conclusion can be reached without restricting the discussion to one particular application.

And few daily drivers can relate to the road course, where 'faster' cars are passed by 'better' drivers all the time, and I suspect 'better' oils are used with excellent results by most...
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
For viscosity, its just oil flowability thick/thin. I'm looking for an ez test at home to just time how long it takes to flow at room temperature. ... Fuel dilution lowers viscosity.


I got a set of viscosity tubes.....

These are they type tubes we got.

http://www.cargille.com/vistube.shtml


I like the air-bubble racing. Entertainment too. I recently bought a LiquiVac oil dipstick-tube extractor for partial-oil-changes, so getting samples every other month. Looks quick.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

And that's where you're wrong.


LOL, of course, because you simply CANNOT be wrong eh?
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Ford doesn't "cripple" and "castrate" the basic Mustang GT


Ummm, yes, that's exactly what the thermal mechanism DOES, it cuts power and subsequently castrates the car until oil temps are lowered.

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in specifying the 5W-20 grade


Not IN spec'ing the oil, they do it BECAUSE they spec that oil and so they set a thermal threshold on oil temperatures.

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because the safety management system triggering bar is set so high that most owners will never test it. And that includes taking the car to the track as one member has proved running M1 0W-20. He managed to get his oil temp's up to 230F which was not high enough for the safeties to intercede.


Yet we have testimony from SteveSRT8 that he HAS in fact observed these cars going thermal and neutering themselves AT THE RACE TRACK. So which is it big guy?

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Running a three grade heavier 5W-50 would rob power and driveability under all normal running conditions.


Oh please! The whopping 2-5HP it MIGHT lose? Yeah, that's "robbing some power" there on a 425HP V8
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And even if some owners are able to get their oil temp's high enough to trigger the safety management systems, running a heavier oil grade is still NOT the solution. The solution is install the optional oil cooler and still be able to benefit from the efficiency and power of the 5W-20 oil grade.


Yet that flies in the face of what Ford has done with the Track Pack! Do you know more than the Engineers at Ford? Are you an Engineer? Your posting here is heavy on theory, which is fine, but you don't present it as theory, you present it as fact. Even though it contradicts the actions of the OEM that designed the bloody thing
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Ford ultimately feels the SOLUTION is to install the oil cooler AND run the heavier oil, because that's exactly what they do!! This allows them to modify or remove the thermal throttle mechanism. So it would seem that in Ford's testing, it is not only possible to get the oil temps to unsafe levels, WITH THE OIL COOLER, but that they got high enough to require a heavier grade of oil.

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I know the conditions that warrant the use the 5W-50 grade (it's what's spec'd for my Caterham) and it's brutal out and out racing with often blocked air flow when car contact is very close under very hot ambient conditions.
The point is you can't begin to replicate this (I certainly can't) in typical track day activities.


Your Caterham is not a Mustang GT. They are different vehicles with different engines and come across the scales with quite different weights. The conditions required with your Caterham to drive oil temperatures to unsafe levels are likely different than with a Mustang GT. Just like they would be different from an M car, AMG....etc. Different vehicles behave differently.

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I feel sorry for the guys that buy the track pac' option on their Mustang for the oil cooler and suspension up-grades and and then feel saddled in having to run the ridiculously heavy 5W-50 grade when they will never come close to benefiting from the high oil temp's it will safely allow.


They have a 425HP RWD car. Why do you feel sorry for them? Do you think the vehicle feels like a lethargic Prius with all that 5w-50 in the pan? They don't. Just like an M5 doesn't feel any bloody different running BMW 5w30 than it does running 10w-60. When you have that much power, the heavier oil weight is invisible.

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And my advice to them is, if you're not seeing high oil temp's with the way you operate your car then run the 5W-20 grade; it will be the cheapest performance upgrade you'll ever buy with no downsides.


So gaining 2HP through oil choice is now a performance upgrade? COME ON DUDE! What do you think Ford's stance is on this recommendation? Do you think they would support it through the warranty period? Or is your advice to effectively tell them to potentially screw their warranty because YOU think they will be better served running 5w-20?

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The same situation applies to Bimmer owners with cars spec'd for TWS 10W-60 and and we have members that have chosen to run oil a couple of grades lighter because they are not seeing high oil temp's with the way they drive and are enjoying the free increased performance.


Owning and having driven a BMW that has, in certain years, spec'd 10w-60, I can tell you right now there's no discernible "free performance increase". I can't tell the difference in driving an M5 with 10w-60 or 0w-40 in the pan. I run the 0w-40 because I think it is a better oil (personal opinion), my model year spec's LL-01, and because I'm in Canada (like you) and we see real cold starts, which the 0w-40 is obviously going to handle better.

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And we all know about Ali Haas and what he's running in his Enzo Ferrari (and yes Ferrari knows what he's doing because he's told them including supporting UOAs).


Yes, and if Bill Gates wanted to run TGMO in his Veyron I'm sure he could, and he could tell Bugatti all about it too! Because he can afford to put a new engine in the car if he manages to nuke it just like Dr. Haas can.

For the rest of us mere mortals who like to retain our warranty and wouldn't be able to shrug off destroying the engine in our cars as the "price of experimentation", the specifications put forth by the manufacturer, particularly those that pertain to retaining warranty, carry some weight.

You experimenting with your own cars is one thing. They are YOUR CARS, you can do whatever the heck you want with them, and if you manage to spin a rod bearing, wipe a cam lobe....etc, that's on you, you were experimenting, and that's cool.

HOWEVER

Advocating that this is an appropriate approach for anybody who happens to own a high performance vehicle that SPECIFIES a PARTICULAR grade of oil, because YOU have a PERSONAL HANG-UP on running a lubricant that YOU FEEL is "too heavy", while potentially opening up that person to warranty issues or engine damage on a vehicle YOU DON'T OWN is reckless. You are intentionally risking them potential warranty issues and engine damage (what happens if they drive their track pack car on Steve's course with your 5w-20 in the pan and aren't watching their oil temperature and manage to wipe a bearing? are you buying them a new engine?) due to something that bothers YOU. And you pander it under the guise of a "performance upgrade", which is complete and utter tripe, and that they are somehow doing better by their engine, something else which you have literally ZERO proof of. You have NOT taken multiple identical engines, operated them under the exact same conditions with half on 5w-20 and half on 5w-50 and then performed tear-down testing on them to qualify what you posit here. But you claim it nonetheless.

I've torn down and seen torn down plenty of engines run on heavier grades of oil, many of them 5w-50. They certainly didn't suffer wear because of it.

Beligerance doesn't help your argument but rather underlies the irrational fear that is the basis of the thicker is better stand. Nor does derogatory remarks like "castrate" and "cripple" to describe safety features which in some in some applications are hardly noticeable when oil temp's rise too high.
And of course you would understate the power loss associated with running 3 grades heavier than necessary which is substantial when the engine is cold and during warm-up.

'As light as possible, as thick as necessary" is the lubrication tenet to follow but you obviously don't agree with that.
Controlling maximum oil temp's through the addition of an oil cooler if the safeties kick-in at the track too often so that you don't have to run a heavier than necessary oil grade in a primarily street driven cars is obviously the preferred route to follow whether it's a Mustang or a Subaru BRZ, etc.
You don't want high oil temp's if you can avoid them and you can avoid them.
 
That mantra is fine and dandy for the two people on this forum that I know of (you being one of them) that have the necessary gauges and gumption to follow it. The rest of us are forced to use what the OM/warranty dictates or error on the safe side and go heavier.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
'As light as possible, as thick as necessary"
 
Yeah, but you don't test for fuel dilution via a viscosity test, do you? You might know more than I do, but we learned it was either a flash point test or CG.

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
For viscosity, its just oil flowability thick/thin. I'm looking for an ez test at home to just time how long it takes to flow at room temperature. ... Fuel dilution lowers viscosity.

I got a set of viscosity tubes for the guy who used to work for me in Condition Monitoring.

They aren't something that gives you a scientific answer to 10 decimal places (which people here love, despite 5% error making even the first decimal place iffy)

Take a new oil, let it sit with the testing tubes to stabilise at room temperature, and bracket the new sample with one faster and one slower...you at least know that your sample is in the middle.

Try it later with used oil, and it often falls outside the thinner of the brackets for whatever reason.

Or you can make your own, with some plastic tube and a couple corks...take a fresh sample, and check how the oil ages.

These are they type tubes we got.

http://www.cargille.com/vistube.shtml
 
Yeah but I was answering the question that FetchFar asked...how yo can test viscosity at home...not verifying that such was an approved ASTM test for fuel dilution...I'll leave that critique to others.
 
Yeah, but he asked about fuel dilution, that was his original question at least as I understood it:

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I've been more aware about fuel dilution since reading posts here, noticing my '11 GM 3.6L V6 with Direct Injection DI is prone to it, allegedly. ... Whats a quick viscosity test at home, at room temperature, one can do to test for fuel dilution in oil?

My point was that viscosity could change for reasons other than fuel dilution but flash point wouldn't (nor would a CG). I didn't know of any way to check for fuel dilution that was a home test.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Yeah, but he asked about fuel dilution, that was his original question at least as I understood it:

Quote:
I've been more aware about fuel dilution since reading posts here, noticing my '11 GM 3.6L V6 with Direct Injection DI is prone to it, allegedly. ... Whats a quick viscosity test at home, at room temperature, one can do to test for fuel dilution in oil?

My point was that viscosity could change for reasons other than fuel dilution but flash point wouldn't (nor would a CG). I didn't know of any way to check for fuel dilution that was a home test.


I was assuming fuel dilution might be the primary cause for lower viscosity. Oil tends to thicken with age in the absence of fuel dilution from oxidative stress over time.
 
It cam also thin with shearing.

Originally Posted By: FetchFar

I was assuming fuel dilution might be the primary cause for lower viscosity. Oil tends to thicken with age in the absence of fuel dilution from oxidative stress over time.


Assumptions are bad, for example thinking Caterham knows more than Automotive engineers..

He throws his theorys around... and talks about "from an engineering point of view"

you might assUme hes an engineer...

when hes actually an insurance salesman? or was it housing broker??
 
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Yes, and my 1MZ-FE with gear-driven camshafts does shear oil. That is about the only useful information I ever got from the oil analysis tests I had done on that engine.

The more I think about it I see why the ASTM test relies on flash point. I can't think of another reason why flash point would change other than fuel dilution. I really don't think viscosity would be a reliable indicator in the real world.

It is still a good question though if there was some home test for dilution. I just can't think of one.
 
I've been using PUE 5w-40 for over a month now and I would saw power output is unchanged. Power delivery however is somewhat different, I wouldn't say it's sluggish, it's smoother. Fuel economy seems to be unchanged as well, IMO it's a solid choice for these motors,.

On a side note, my engine is a lot quieter, my girlfriend thought I got some sound proofing installed. My car is actually speced for both 5w30 and 5w-40, maybe there's something different about the stana fe engine?
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Beligerance doesn't help your argument


But arrogance and the inability to respond to my points, as they were made, helps yours?

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
but rather underlies the irrational fear that is the basis of the thicker is better stand.


No, it underlies the incredibly rational fear that if you run an oil that is too thin on the race track, you can destroy your engine. Particularly when experimenting with a lubricant that is thinner than prescribed by the OEM.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Nor does derogatory remarks like "castrate" and "cripple" to describe safety features which in some in some applications are hardly noticeable when oil temp's rise too high.


So they are derogatory because they aptly describe what happens to the Mustang GT Track Pack as well as the Nissan GT-R when they engage eh? How many cars have you driven on the race track that you've observed this mechanism engage on? Steve's description of it engaging on the Mustang most certainly aligns with the usage of the terms I've used.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
And of course you would understate the power loss associated with running 3 grades heavier than necessary which is substantial when the engine is cold and during warm-up.


Understate? I'm not the one tossing around statements like "significant power loss due to heavier oil" here big guy, that's you, that's you OVERSTATING the significance of it and I can make that statement because I've seen it on a bloody dyno CATERHAM. I KNOW how much power you lose. I'm not new. I've been around cars for a very long time. And you know surprisingly, Ford didn't have to revise their SAE NET BHP ratings for the Track Pack version of the Mustang GT. BMW didn't have to revise the power ratings for the E39 M5 when they went from 10w-60 to 5w30 either. The reason for that is that there is NOT a significant difference no matter what you claim to the contrary.

I've seen STONE COLD engines on the dyno make their BEST NUMBERS with 5w-50 in the pan because the intake, blower....etc is not hot yet. As the engine and oil got hot, they actually lost a couple of HP due to the intake tract heating up, despite the fact that the oil was massively thinner than on the first pull.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
'As light as possible, as thick as necessary" is the lubrication tenet to follow but you obviously don't agree with that.


Don't put words in my mouth. Ford is obviously saying that for the particular engine in question, the oil that meets that criteria is a 5w-50. You don't have to LIKE that fact, but it is a fact nonetheless. They don't give you options. For earlier Ford engines, the heavier oil was obviously NOT necessary, because they didn't spec it! Heck, even the '03-'04 Cobra spec'd a 5w-20 or 5w30, which was obviously safe for that car or Ford would have spec'd something heavier. Same with the 2000 Cobra-R, which was sold as Track Ready.

My "version" of that statement includes "within the range specified by the OEM", which jives quite handily with what Doug Hillary recommends. That means if your car gives you a range of 0w-20 to 5w-40 and you short trip it or drive it in a Canadian winter, 0w-20 is probably the smart choice. But like with the Subaru owners manual, which recommends heavier oils under extreme operating conditions, if you are beating on it, as per the OEM, you may be better served going with one of the heavier grades recommended in the owners manual.

HOWEVER, when the owners manual does NOT give you options, but instead rather specifies an oil like 5w-50 with a particular OEM spec. Or if they call for an oil that meets a spec like LL-01, then that is what I advocate the use of. With BMW that's a wide range of lubricants of various viscosities, but all having an minimum HTHS >=3.5cP.


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Controlling maximum oil temp's through the addition of an oil cooler if the safeties kick-in at the track too often so that you don't have to run a heavier than necessary oil grade in a primarily street driven cars is obviously the preferred route to follow whether it's a Mustang or a Subaru BRZ, etc.
You don't want high oil temp's if you can avoid them and you can avoid them.


You don't seem to be following here. With the Track Pack version of the GT, it does NOT have the same safety mechanism kick-in point as the regular GT that spec's 5w-20. Some say it doesn't have the mechanism at all, but I'm not sure on that one. So while fitting an oil cooler to the regular GT if being tracked makes sense, it also still spec's 5w-20! The owner will still have the factory thermal mechanism in place that will limit/pull engine power (castrate) the car if oil temperatures get too high and that car is literally setup, with Ford's extensive testing, for 5w-20. They have determined the temperature at which 5w-20 is unsafe for the Coyote, and with the regular GT, when it hits that temperature, the engine cuts power until the oil temperature has come down.

With the track pack version of the car, 5w-20 is NOT the spec'd lubricant, 5w-50 is. And it does NOT have the SAME safety mechanism. So despite it having an oil cooler, it ALSO specifies a heavier grade of oil. And this is likely so that Ford could either raise the bar on the safety mechanism to a temperature that won't be encountered by tracking the car, or they were able to remove it altogether with this oil choice.

So what this means is that if somebody runs something thinner than the spec lubricant in their Track Pack car on the track and DO manage to get oil temperatures to an unsafe (with that lubricant) point, the safety mechanism will NOT step in to cut power. It will continue to give them all 425 ponies and if that results in catastrophic engine damage, then so be it.

THIS is the risk about handing out viscosity advise that doesn't jive with the OEM's and THAT is my issue here. The OEM's go through EXTENSIVE testing before recommending a grade or RANGE of grades of oils. So when you have options and can choose something appropriate based on the conditions, that's one thing. But when they call for a specific lubricant/grade, or an oil meeting a specific certification/approval, we need to consider that and the safest bet is to ALWAYS use something that fits with what the OEM has specified. Not doing so risks warranty issues and it may also, depending on the application, usage profile, design....etc,risk potential engine damage.
 
Regarding the way an oil "feels" based on weight, think about it this way. The total oil related drag in an engine doesn't change much with load, meaning the oil drag is fairly consistent regardless of where your foot is on the throttle (at a constant RPM). So at light loads the oil related drag is significant and as the load on the engine increases the oil drag becomes less and less significant, percentage-wise.

An engine maintaining a certain RPM with no load on it is generating no actual power output, the only power it's generating is used up internally to overcome friction, pumping losses etc. In this scenario internal friction is a LARGE percentage of the power required to keep the engine spinning.

Now take the same engine at the same steady RPM and increase the load to 100%. The power being produced by the engine is now so much that the power consumed by oil friction is much less significant.

OVERKILL, your dyno example is perfect since you can vary the load on an engine and hold it at a certain speed. Take an engine up to its power peak, hold it there until oil temps stabilize, then throttle it back to the point where it's not actually producing any power (Zero on the dyno). Measure it's fuel consumption rate at that RPM. Repeat this exercise with oils of different weights and you will see large differences between oil weights. The differences will be large (percentage wise relative to each other) because oil drag is a significant contributor at low/no output.

Repeating this exercise, as you've already noted, with the engine at full power results in a very small difference, once again percentage wise. 5hp on a 400 hp engine is statistical "noise" in many cases. Run-to-run variation will likely eclipse the power output differences from one oil to the next.

All that said, for a street car that spends the vast majority of its time at low loads the difference in oil weight can be felt. Not in a "more powerful" sort of way, but definitely in a "more responsive" kind of way. I am NOT talking about throttle response in gear, I'm talking about throttle response OUT of gear when the engine is not loaded.

Keep in mind the more you isolate yourself from the engine the less you will feel, meaning those who drive automatic transmissions (including automated manuals) will be far less likely to notice a change. In a car with a clutch pedal that requires driver involvement, a lighter weight oil can be felt. This is increasingly true at colder oil temperatures when the engine is warming up and the viscosity difference of the oils is greatest.
 
Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel
Regarding the way an oil "feels" based on weight, think about it this way. The total oil related drag in an engine doesn't change much with load, meaning the oil drag is fairly consistent regardless of where your foot is on the throttle (at a constant RPM). So at light loads the oil related drag is significant and as the load on the engine increases the oil drag becomes less and less significant, percentage-wise.

An engine maintaining a certain RPM with no load on it is generating no actual power output, the only power it's generating is used up internally to overcome friction, pumping losses etc. In this scenario internal friction is a LARGE percentage of the power required to keep the engine spinning.

Now take the same engine at the same steady RPM and increase the load to 100%. The power being produced by the engine is now so much that the power consumed by oil friction is much less significant.

OVERKILL, your dyno example is perfect since you can vary the load on an engine and hold it at a certain speed. Take an engine up to its power peak, hold it there until oil temps stabilize, then throttle it back to the point where it's not actually producing any power (Zero on the dyno). Measure it's fuel consumption rate at that RPM. Repeat this exercise with oils of different weights and you will see large differences between oil weights. The differences will be large (percentage wise relative to each other) because oil drag is a significant contributor at low/no output.

Repeating this exercise, as you've already noted, with the engine at full power results in a very small difference, once again percentage wise. 5hp on a 400 hp engine is statistical "noise" in many cases. Run-to-run variation will likely eclipse the power output differences from one oil to the next.

All that said, for a street car that spends the vast majority of its time at low loads the difference in oil weight can be felt. Not in a "more powerful" sort of way, but definitely in a "more responsive" kind of way. I am NOT talking about throttle response in gear, I'm talking about throttle response OUT of gear when the engine is not loaded.

Keep in mind the more you isolate yourself from the engine the less you will feel, meaning those who drive automatic transmissions (including automated manuals) will be far less likely to notice a change. In a car with a clutch pedal that requires driver involvement, a lighter weight oil can be felt. This is increasingly true at colder oil temperatures when the engine is warming up and the viscosity difference of the oils is greatest.


If that was the case, then the engines would not be idling or would struggle to idle (no load) on cold starts. The viscosity spread just from 40F to 100F can be 10 fold. From 0F to 100F it could be close to a thousand fold .

Changing from 2.8 to 3.5 cSt will hardly be noticeable even on the dyno.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
If that was the case, then the engines would not be idling or would struggle to idle (no load) on cold starts. The viscosity spread just from 40F to 100F can be 10 fold. From 0F to 100F it could be close to a thousand fold .

Changing from 2.8 to 3.5 cSt will hardly be noticeable even on the dyno.


Disagree, and disagree on both points. Idle speed is a closed-loop control process, meaning a target idle RPM will be achieved with whatever fuel flow rate (power, aka energy flow rate) is necessary. Also, "hardly be noticeable" doesn't sound right, as peak power changes with viscosity, as http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y shows, and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrhoPKQLtfo videos, tip: Skip toward the end of the video for the result charts to read. Some difference, especially if you care about fuel economy & power, which some of us do.
 
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
If that was the case, then the engines would not be idling or would struggle to idle (no load) on cold starts. The viscosity spread just from 40F to 100F can be 10 fold. From 0F to 100F it could be close to a thousand fold .

Changing from 2.8 to 3.5 cSt will hardly be noticeable even on the dyno.


Disagree, and disagree on both points. Idle speed is a closed-loop control process, meaning a target idle RPM will be achieved with whatever fuel flow rate (power, aka energy flow rate) is necessary. Also, "hardly be noticeable" doesn't sound right, as peak power changes with viscosity, as http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y shows, and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrhoPKQLtfo videos, tip: Skip toward the end of the video for the result charts to read. Some difference, especially if you care about fuel economy & power, which some of us do.


Personally, I have zero confidence in those videos. There is no way on this green earth that oil brand in the same viscosity could have almost 10% effect on power output. Even a change of several grades (Say, 20 to 50) would not have more than a single percentage point change.

In my (limited and anecdotal) experience, differences in fuel mileage are likely as much traceable to better ring sealing as to reduced friction and pumping losses.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
If that was the case, then the engines would not be idling or would struggle to idle (no load) on cold starts. The viscosity spread just from 40F to 100F can be 10 fold. From 0F to 100F it could be close to a thousand fold .


Measure the fuel consumption of a cold engine/oil during a cold start, then measure the fuel consumption of that engine/oil hot at idle. Let me know how many times less fuel it's burning.

Sure, it runs rich for a litle bit when cold for fuel atomization reasons (and in open loop until the O2 sensor comes on line), but it's also fighting massive amounts of oil related friction/pumping losses compared to when it's warmed up.

Also remember that oil related drag is only a small portion of internal engine losses.
 
Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
There is no way on this green earth that oil brand in the same viscosity could have almost 10% effect on power output.
^This


The dyno runs had a 6% max spread, not 10% as you said. Discount the 6% down to 4% for qood measure (variability), and it is in the range you might get. Remember every oil has its viscosity in a range, not an exact figure, as in a 30 oil can have a range of hot viscosity from 9.3 to 12.5, and HTHS values vary from 2.8 to 3.5 across some 30-grades. Also, friction modifiers come into play, different brands of oil use different ones/amounts.
 
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