08 Mitsu Evolution (4B11 2.0L Turbo) Help me pick?

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I purchased a new 08 Mitsu Lancer Evolution in April. 1st 500 miles used the 5w30 M1 from the Factory, now I changed to M1 EP 5w30 every 4500 miles. Car has 9550 on the ODO. I am sending the the M1 EP 5w30 to Blackstone Labs for a oil analysis tomorrow.

I have a feeling that the results will be grim though, I am not sure if M1 is up to the task of handling this turboed motor very well. The 4B11 TURBO has been associated with having a fuel dilution issue (not all the motors just some), which causes the oil to lose its viscosity.

As well as the the cars oil does heat up quiet a bit, since the turbo is located in the rear of the motor (car comes equipped with a oil cooler with thermostat).

I have modified the car with some power adding parts. Which include: -CBRD Tune -COBB AP -COBB UICP, LICP, BOV HP -COBB SFI -COBB Turbo Inlet Pipe -COBB Sway Bars -ETS 4" FMIC -AMS DP -T1R Exhaust -MXP TP -FORGE WGA -xMR Catch Cans -AMS Front Rollerstop -AMS Fuel Rail -evoDynamics 3 Port -Deatschwerks 800cc -Techna-Fit SS Lines -TWM Short Shifter -WORKS Bushings -SWIFT Sport-Mach's -Whiteline Kit -AEM UEGO -STRI PSI Gauge -Rally Armor Mudflaps -PERRIN 3" Ant.

With all these parts (not all for engine performance) the car turns out about 360whp and about 26-27 PSI of boost.

I run the car through 2-3 AutoX session a year and spirited driving. Includes some jack rabbit starts, and some passes through gears through the RPM range. Most miles are about 65% highway, 33% city, and 2% racing.

This is my daily driven car, so I need it to run in tip top shape. Highway in 5th gear is 80mph at 3800rpm. So the oil does take a bit of beating.

Now the question is: (after the M1 Results Come back in)

Switch to something like Redline 0w30 or 0w-40 or give AMSoil or GC a try.

Some input would be required, because it is a high performance close tolerance engine.

Factory Spec 5w30 Full Synthetic (M1 recommend advertising on the motor) change interval 3000-3750.
 
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Hi,
Clipse3GT - Welcome to BITOG - I hope you enjoy your time here with us

If you feel the "need" to change lubricants then M1 0W-40 is worth condisering. This lubricant is used for racing by a number of teams. It has the very best reputation in "heavily" turbocharged and supercharged engine families - many have it as Factory Fill!
 
Hi,
aquariuscsm - They are quite different animals

In a formulation sense M1 0W-40 is a very advanced lubricant - probably Mobil's best M1 product. It shares some similarity to Delvac 1 5W-40

M1 5W-50 is the most popular M1 synthetic sold here in OZ as I understand it. M1 15W-50 is available and some service shops buy it in bulk for service fills. I haven't seen it on retail sale here for some years

M1 15W-50 is very popular with some older Porsche air cooled Turbo Owners and many Porsche racers (older cars) around the world
 
I found this interesting.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Turbo_Engine_Coking.aspx

Question:
Does Mobil 1 0W-40 Make a Turbo Engine Susceptible to Coking?
With my previous stock engine '01 Miata I used nothing but Mobil 1 0W-40 with completely satisfactory results on the street and track for over four years. I have recently replaced that car with a very low mileage '04 turbo MAZASPEED Miata and am using the same 0W-40 Mobil 1 oil for street and track. However, I have been strongly advised by seemingly knowledgeable MSM forum gurus that use of an oil with such a wide viscosity range in a turbo powered car makes the turbo bearings subject to coking. I routinely see oil temps of 230°-260°F here in the Arizona desert and would appreciate your technical opinion re the coking issue and whether Mobil 1 0W-40 is the appropriate and best oil for my MSM for street and track combination use in very hot southern Arizona.
-- Richard Olsen, Green Valley, AZ
Answer:
We would recommend you use either Mobil 1 5w30, which has demonstrated outstanding performance in the HONDA HTO-6 Turbo specification and is recommended for Honda RDX Turbo, or Mobil 1 0W-40. Your friends are correct - wide multigrades can sometimes contribute to deposits. However, in the case of the Mobil 1 formulations, this is not an issue since it is formulated with high Viscosity Index base oils. This means it does not require excessive viscosity modifiers like conventional oils with a wide range viscosities. Secondly, Mobil 1 0W-40 carries all the outstanding qualities of all the other Mobil 1 grades including outstanding turbo performance and high temperature stability.
 
If it helps, service fill for the Lancer Evolution here is Mobil 1 0W-40 and is the grade recommended by Mitsubishi. Use it with confidence.
thumbsup2.gif
 
The only issue I am seeing is that the 0w-40 oil, might be a bit too thick for the winter months ahead.

Not sure, since Kuwait is rather hot (40C) during the day, so I can see why you run a 0-40 in those conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Mudflaps are a power adding part?
grin2.gif



Yes downforce, LOL.

I stated earlier, not all parts are performance or related to engine performance. ;-)
 
Originally Posted By: Clipse3GT
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Mudflaps are a power adding part?
grin2.gif



Yes downforce, LOL.

I stated earlier, not all parts are performance or related to engine performance. ;-)


Oh okay, I didn't see that.
lol.gif


Sounds like a fast car you got there though.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Originally Posted By: Clipse3GT
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Mudflaps are a power adding part?
grin2.gif



Yes downforce, LOL.

I stated earlier, not all parts are performance or related to engine performance. ;-)


Oh okay, I didn't see that.
lol.gif


Sounds like a fast car you got there though.
thumbsup2.gif



Thanks, its a fun quick car in the twisties and autoX.
 
Originally Posted By: Clipse3GT
The only issue I am seeing is that the 0w-40 oil, might be a bit too thick for the winter months ahead.

Not sure, since Kuwait is rather hot (40C) during the day, so I can see why you run a 0-40 in those conditions.


Mobil 1 advertises their 0W-40 as an all-weather lubricant. The 0 weight when cold helps cold starts (which I reckon would be your biggest concern in Ohio), and the 40 weight provides excellent protection once the engine reaches operating temperature.

I'm not sure if the 5w30 you're using meets BMW LongLife spec, but if it does chances are it will have an HTHS viscosity of 3.5+ required to meet the specification - making it a heavy 30 weight or almost a 40 weight. Much like German Castrol and Mobil 1 5w30 ESP. M1 0W-40 has an HTHS viscosity of 3.6, so it sheers down to a 30 weight as others have mentioned here before. Hope this helps.
55.gif
 
My 03 is slightly modified via the ECU and loves RP 10w30 seing track time and highspeed long trip drives. That being said I agree with Doug that in your set up the 0w40 is a great option. If shear is a concern go with Delvac 1 or M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40. I think the 0w40 would be the best overall option taking into account protection and turbo lag from oil drag.
 
Someone posted this video here recently. It's a slightly older Evo at some tuning shop in Australia being tested with 5 different synthetics. In terms of dyno results, Mobil1 didn't fare as well as the others, but the variance between the best and worst result was well under 10%. Since Nulon doesn't appear to be available in the US, I liked Motul's 300V.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y&feature=player_embedded
 
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Someone posted this video here recently. It's a slightly older Evo at some tuning shop in Australia being tested with 5 different synthetics. In terms of dyno results, Mobil1 didn't fare as well as the others, but the variance between the best and worst result was well under 10%. Since Nulon doesn't appear to be available in the US, I liked Motul's 300V.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y&feature=player_embedded


Interesting Video... but I rather have my oil protect my engine better than gain me 5 hp. :)
 
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Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
My 03 is slightly modified via the ECU and loves RP 10w30 seing track time and highspeed long trip drives. That being said I agree with Doug that in your set up the 0w40 is a great option. If shear is a concern go with Delvac 1 or M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40. I think the 0w40 would be the best overall option taking into account protection and turbo lag from oil drag.


I will look into maybe trying out 0-40 M1 next time I do a oil change, I wish I could find a oil analysis on the this oil. I think they sell it locally at my Advanced Auto Parts.
 
I'm usually all about doing what the manufacturer says, but since Mitsu is pretty 'general' about what to use, and you are racing it already, I'd be inclined to use a Redline 30 weight - 0W-30, 5w30, or 10w30. They are tough oils designed for racing applications.

Problem is, with 3750-mile OCI's, it will get pricey - but hey, you bought and modded a Mitsu Evo, so you're doing okay....
 
Originally Posted By: Clipse3GT
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Someone posted this video here recently. It's a slightly older Evo at some tuning shop in Australia being tested with 5 different synthetics. In terms of dyno results, Mobil1 didn't fare as well as the others, but the variance between the best and worst result was well under 10%. Since Nulon doesn't appear to be available in the US, I liked Motul's 300V.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y&feature=player_embedded


Interesting Video... but I rather have my oil protect my engine better than gain me 5 hp. :)


I suspect any one of those oils would be fabulous for "protecting your engine." Protecting the engine while reducing parasitic losses is a win-win situation.

Good luck with whatever you choose. The EVO is a fun car to toss around on the track (though I prefer the Audi B5 S4 with 2.7L twin turbo for all around track rat).
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I'm usually all about doing what the manufacturer says, but since Mitsu is pretty 'general' about what to use, and you are racing it already, I'd be inclined to use a Redline 30 weight - 0W-30, 5w30, or 10w30. They are tough oils designed for racing applications.

Problem is, with 3750-mile OCI's, it will get pricey - but hey, you bought and modded a Mitsu Evo, so you're doing okay....


Well we will see what the oil analysis shows after 4500 miles on the M1 EP 5w30. I have easy access to the M1 0w-40 and the Redline oils (Summit is 30 min away).

Either way for the Redline I would be looking at 0w-40 or 5w30. Although it I am a little concerned that the TBN reads a bit low on the Redline oils, however they are load with Moly and Zinc. So even if I could run a 5000 miles service interval that would be pretty good.
 
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Originally Posted By: Clipse3GT
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Someone posted this video here recently. It's a slightly older Evo at some tuning shop in Australia being tested with 5 different synthetics. In terms of dyno results, Mobil1 didn't fare as well as the others, but the variance between the best and worst result was well under 10%. Since Nulon doesn't appear to be available in the US, I liked Motul's 300V.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y&feature=player_embedded


Interesting Video... but I rather have my oil protect my engine better than gain me 5 hp. :)


I suspect any one of those oils would be fabulous for "protecting your engine." Protecting the engine while reducing parasitic losses is a win-win situation.

Good luck with whatever you choose. The EVO is a fun car to toss around on the track (though I prefer the Audi B5 S4 with 2.7L twin turbo for all around track rat).


Audi is a fun car to toss around. However, I know people with the A6 with that motor and too many issues after 80k. Coolant leaks etc... But every car has a fault somewhere or other.
 
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